Lionel CW-80 transformer

I have a MTH Z1000 and have been very happy with it. Basically, it's 100 watts.  IIRC, the cw80 also has/had a programmable fixed voltage output.  The z1000 does not have that feature. But then it depends if you want more current transformer(s) or if anything is acceptable. Older PW transformers work as well.  Do you plan on expanding your layout?  If so, maybe you should look at more power than a cw80.

Steve

You should be able to find a set break-up CW on eBay for $40-$50.

I got a new breakup one for 56 bucks at my door. Great to have.

Modern I'd just get a Z1000. You should be able to find it cheaper than a CW80, plus it'll be more reliable.

The other option is a Postwar LW with an external circuit breaker.

I have I cw-80 not using it I'll send it to you for 40 shipped if you still need it send me email 

Charles Ro had some LW for $75 ,I bought one , 125 volts, accessory, you might see if they are still around.

Have bought a few CW80s new on Ebay from HobbySpeed and an independent for under $90; learned from some article somewhere that those produced on or after 2006 were re-engineered to cure all previous problems; DOM is located on the lower left corner of the top of the box and on the green seal.

Louis,

   Pick up either an old KW from Jim Lawson who rebuilds them, or purchase a new Z-1000.   Either way you win.  Forget the CW-80.

PCRR/Dave

One last thing about the CW80 - used it to initially run my Legacy Pocahontas loco and tender and they ran OK including the smoke unit; but, as soon as I put 2 of its lighted passenger cars on the track, the smoke unit did the 3 blink error code.  Sent the loco back to Lionel to service the smoke unit; they responded that the unit was OK and that I needed a bigger transformer; got the loco back and attached a ZWL - no more issues. 

I'd recommend the eBay set break-up approach as well, easy to grab one for $40-$50.  I've picked up all mine that way.

Nothing but positive experiences with the CW-80.  I have six of them positioned around my conventional layout in strategic places, controlling six loops; they've been operating since 2011 with no issues.  Got a couple of spares as well, just in case one goes.  I've got a CW-40 under the table running accessories, but I wouldn't recommend it for trains--you'll definitely run out of power fast.

I have 4 CW80's; no issues except in my prior post; used one to run a new Legacy AC-9 and its tender with no cars successfully including the smoke units - living room carpet Christmas tree layout, two oval tracks connected by Fastrack Command switch tracks.

RideTheRails posted:

I have a MTH Z1000 and have been very happy with it. Basically, it's 100 watts.  IIRC, the cw80 also has/had a programmable fixed voltage output.  The z1000 does not have that feature. But then it depends if you want more current transformer(s) or if anything is acceptable. Older PW transformers work as well.  Do you plan on expanding your layout?  If so, maybe you should look at more power than a cw80.

Steve

The Z1000 is compatible? I've read that the CW-80 has a clipped sine wave fake AC generated off their circuit board to allow the whistle and something else to operate off of the remainder of the sine wave.

The CW-80 had lots of power for me. I ran the Lionel Hobo train plus handcart on 100 ft or so of track (lots of lockons!) with 5 powered switch pairs and a camp fire on my living room floor for the Christmas 2 month season (see original post photo) until the wife makes me take it down. Only things I didn't like about it was the power delay to avoid wheel spinning, it was incompatible with my 1945ish family Lionel 027 Babe Ruth train, and mine was original number date code unreliable transformer.

Miguel posted:

I have I cw-80 not using it I'll send it to you for 40 shipped if you still need it send me email 

Interested if it's a letter date code (mine was number code). hutter01@nycap.rr.com. I'm near Albany, NY.

RickM46 posted:

Have bought a few CW80s new on Ebay from HobbySpeed and an independent for under $90; learned from some article somewhere that those produced on or after 2006 were re-engineered to cure all previous problems; DOM is located on the lower left corner of the top of the box and on the green seal.

I've read that the bad ones were number date codes and the good ones used letter date codes.

Well Louish I sent Miguel one free that was completely refurbished from Lionel with the good number. Maybe it's the same one he don't need anymore.

Larry Sr.