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Originally Posted by Norm Charbonneau:

B unit now earning its keep.

 

 

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Ok Norm - time for an updated video with the B unit included!

 

Your earlier video above is simply amazing - certainly looks like a real train in a real scene. Congratulations to your amazing display of talent sir!

I've been following this thread with great interest as I recently acquired a Lionel Century Club II PRR RF-16 ABA set.  These are TMCC, but the shells are identical to the Legacy units.
I took apart the unpowered B to lower the unit and install Kadees.  I would like to move the truck mounting plate to mount above the chassis.  I can't figure out how to get the mounting plate off the truck.  It does not just rotate for removal like the Legacy units.  I figured I needed to take the truck "chassis" apart.  I removed the 2 screws from underneath the truck "chassis" but I can't pry the halves apart. I even removed the roller mount screws.  Any ideas or do I need a bigger hammer?

Bob

 

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My bet is that the motor mount is either screwed in from beneath the pick up roller or more likely from inside the two-piece truck frame. Be careful when opening, there's going to be clear plastic washers that may need to be placed in specific locations upon reassembly. Also, the bronze bearings are going to have a flat spot that fits flat on a pad.

Mind as well grease it while you're in there.
Good luck.

Mario

I have the CCII TMCC version of the sharks.  The body and pilots are the same as the Legacy units, but the motor mounts are different. I don't see any way to easily lower the units.  Not a big deal, but I do want to fix the pilots.  They would look better if they were 1/8" lower.  Do you have spacers that match the pilot contour available to purchase?

Bob

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Bob,

thats cool!  I wish more people would do this. 

Can you post some pictures of the motors and mounts, as I have an idea. 

Unfortunately, because of the compound curves, 3D printing is not a good choice for the spacer. What I would do is trace the pattern onto a sheet of styrene plastic and then trim it with a band saw, close to the size, and then use a sander to get it to match the contour. 

Norm can share his formulae for the Brunswick green to match. 

 

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Here they are.  There is only 1/8" clearance between the flanges and the frame and also the brake cylinders and the frame. I thought about flipping the motor mounts to the top of the frame.  It might clear the flanges running over perfectly level trackwork but . . . 

Also my attempt would require grinding the threaded projections under the motor mount plate.

My plan B for the pilots was as you suggested.  Thanks.

Norm

What was your paint formula to match the Brunswick green?

If anyone is in the market for Legacy PRR Sharks, don't overlook the CCII units.  Unlike the Legacy set, the AA set has both units powered with smoke and sound, and each A Unit has a different multi chime horn.  One is higher sounds and one is lower.  Not sure if it's prototypical, but it is definitely cool when you blow them together!

Bob

 

 

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Last edited by RRDOC

This is where I shaved some height off the F7B's truck, its the contact point of the trucks and the frame...

It might not get you the full 1/8" that you're looking for, but it could be a start.  Another trick could be to drop the shell over the frame, slightly too.  This is what I had to do on the high-water F7B.

you might want to try and see if you can flip this plate:

That might be able to grab you a few mm, too.

The reason? only because the pilot matches right up to the contours on the shell nose, and adding a spacer is going to involve some design work to get it all to line up.

Moving the truck mounting plate to the top of the frame is exactly what Steven did above, and you can see it here:

Thanks,

Mario

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Norm Charbonneau posted:

Guys, my go-to Brunswick is/was my bottle of Polly Scale. I don't know if it would help you anyway on the CCII Sharks since those were Neal Schorr's favorite shade of Nauseation Green. I have a nice set of FA2s with that same shade and thinking about trying to match that has kept me from fixing the pilots on them.

In that case, if you can bring the shell over to an auto body paint supply shop, they should be able to match it optically using the laser tool.

 

I'm finding it difficult to compare colors of Locomotives.  Lighting affects the perceived color as much as the paint does.  I had a set of Weaver PRR Sharks which were clearly darker and more correct than my CCII Sharks.  Steve's CCII units are the same as mine, but with his lighting, they look a lot greener.  I suspect that the Legacy units, like the Weavers,  are darker and closer to the prototype.

Norm's Legacy:

My Lionel CCII:

(the rear Kadees are done!)

Steve's Lionel CCII:

Weaver:

Prototype:

Bob

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