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Smokebox paint applied.   On my E5 I painted the smokebox Floquil grimy black.  It was a little flat for my taste, so this time I used a 50/50 mix of PollyScale grimy black and Model Masters gun metal.  It came out just as I hoped, with a very slight metallic glint.

 

I'm going to let it dry for at least a few days before I mask it off with micromask and good ole' tape.   Then it's engine black.

Weather today is not favorable for painting (cold and damp) but I at least got the engines ready for paint whenever weather is favorable.

 

Micro-Mask to mark off the separation cleanly between graphite and black

 

And good old fashion tape.

 

I'll be out of the house most of the weekend (Some friends and I are making a short film) but if weather is right, and I get a spare moment, I'll get some Engine Black on these bad boys.

 

There was some peeling, but I'm not terribly bothered, because as it dried it became more and more apparent that the paint I mixed was far too blue to look right. I I re-mixed for a warmer and slightly brighter shade and will respray as soon as I can.  Then I have to gloss-coat the whole thing for decals, and it just occurred to me that I'm out of gloss-coat, and my nearest "LHS" is 45miles away, so I'm not sure when I'll have time to get down there.  I may just order some online... the cost of shipping may be less than the cost of gas.

 

That's much better!   I am concerned that PollyS locomotive black does appear a bit greyer than the black MTH uses.  I'm hoping that it's a function of the satin finish of the paint, and a layer of gloss will darken it up, but if not I've got some Tamiya black acrylic that'll get me where I need to be.  Also my local toy store, which doesn't have a very big selection of paints, did have Tamiya clear gloss acrylic, so that should get me to the point where I can apply decals.  

 

Of all the E5sa pictures I've collected for reference, the only picture I've seen of one with class lights was this picture of 1492:

 

 

So, for a little variety, #1492 gets class lights and a pilot deck tool box, while #1493 does not.  (Also I've assigned them to different terminals; Bethlehem and Erie Avenue.)

 

And for the class light snobs, yes, they're green (because I like a little color) but they're unlit, so no grief about the non-existent 2nd section!

Crickey, I'm really close to finished!   

 

 

Still to be done:  final coat of clear over decals, front number board, install cab windows, reinstall handrailing and crew, and re-assemble.  Master Yoda approves.

 

I feel like maybe there were still one or two little finishing touches I wanted to add, but I think at this point I'll just leave them to be a surprise.

Originally Posted by Bobby Ogage:

This post is the kind of material I would really enjoy in the OGR magazine, and I hope it happens. Wowak, you are the teacher. Great craftsmanship and ingenuity you have. I can't wait to see your next endeavor.

 

I'd probably need better pictures than my cellphone camera provides for publication, but maybe whatever the next big one is I'll document with an article in mind.

I've really enjoyed following the progress of your conversions and you do wonderful work! Your approach, with the exception of the use of styrene, harks back to an earlier time in the 1940's and 50's when in order to improve an existing kit, it was necessary to remove pipes, domes, cabs, etc. and replace these with lead or brass castings and sheet metal. The skill to do what you have accomplished has largely been lost and it is nice to know that the tradition still exists. I too, hope to see a future article about your conversions.

 

Eric Hofberg

TCA, LCCA

I've really enjoyed following the progress of your conversions and you do wonderful work! Your approach, with the exception of the use of styrene, harks back to an earlier time in the 1940's and 50's when in order to improve an existing kit, it was necessary to remove pipes, domes, cabs, etc. and replace these with lead or brass castings and sheet metal. The skill to do what you have accomplished has largely been lost and it is nice to know that the tradition still exists. I too, hope to see a future article about your conversions.


Ditto!

Jay

So on my last model (my personal E5sa) I lamented that I can spend hours staring at decals trying to get them perfectly straight, but as soon as I take a picture of them, I can see that they're not perfect.  Well I had a eureka moment:  While I was working on the decals, when I thought I had them right, I took a pic with my cellphone cam and zoomed in, and any crookedness became obvious, BEFORE the decals had set.  Why didn't I think of that before?!

 

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800-980-OGRR (6477)
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