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I have completed the removal of the old layout and have begun building the new larger layout.  I was able to get a hold of 2X4's for a great price so I am using those this time as opposed to 1X4's... the 2X4's are not needed and are a bit much but for the $ I couldn't pass them up.  These will be topped in areas with 3/4 sanded ply and the rest will be a open grid.   The height right now is at 49 inches so after homasote the track will be at 50 inches ish.  All updates I will post here as I progress.  The back drop is being recycled from my old layout and once the screw holes are filled and sanded the plan is to cover them with back drops so don't fuss on all the holes too much... 

First photo shows the first couple sections of the new bench work 

2nd photo shows more bench work in place and the old back drop sections going back up

3rd photo shows the length of this portion of the layout which is going to be going up to the wall I'm leaning against to take the photo which will put it at 44 feet and it will turn to the right in the photos and continue down for another 22 feet.  The bench work is very solid right now, once it all is completed I will build shelves underneath that will tie the legs together allowing for more strength in the legs and a bunch of storage space.  Once at a more completed stage a fascia will be added with some type of curtain/drape material to cover things up below. The wide sections in the layout will incorporate lift up sections for access/maint. reasons.  I also just completed a video showing my mess....errr I mean progress.   Also the angular portion of bench work closest to the camera is where the roll out section I am going to build will go to allow access to the breaker box and sump pump, the bench work will then continue onward....  Not a bunch done but I'm plugging along.

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Thanks guys!

Malcolm- All of the turnouts will be and a good portion of the rest, some will be Atlas or ME.

Bob-I know what you mean, I enjoy it also.

Ed-I have a buddy that's a general contractor...

Rapid Transit Holmes-Thank you, the width at the far end is 12 feet, length is 44 feet. There is also another portion that will be 22'X12", the layout is a "L" shape.  I will put up a track plan here when I get a chance, I put it up in another thread I started a couple weeks ago...I just hand drew one which works for my mind...

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Chris,

Fantastic benchwork!! I have a 50ftx17ft area with water heater,furnace in the way,yes sump pump area too. The full area width is 25ft,but it has a 4 tier shelving all the way around. So far,I'm working on one 50ft run. My wife has the rest of the area pretty full as we had to have a place for the things from her house which also includes the living room,garage,& most other rooms. 

O scale,in my eyes,fills that area up pretty fast. JMO.

Al Hummel

Alan Hummel posted:

Chris,

Fantastic benchwork!! I have a 50ftx17ft area with water heater,furnace in the way,yes sump pump area too. The full area width is 25ft,but it has a 4 tier shelving all the way around. So far,I'm working on one 50ft run. My wife has the rest of the area pretty full as we had to have a place for the things from her house which also includes the living room,garage,& most other rooms. 

O scale,in my eyes,fills that area up pretty fast. JMO.

Al Hummel

Thank you, 50 feet....now that's a great space to work with!. ... I know what you mean about the Mrs. mine seems to acquire things at a rapid rate...  You are right about O scale...it eats space fast, but I love it.  

N&W Class J posted:
rtr12 posted:

Looks great so far. I will be following along to watch your progress. I like these build threads.

Thanks, I'll post updates often, I always like build threads to.  I always like seeing how folks get to the finished product...not that they are ever finished but you know.... 

Sounds great, I will be following along. I agree with your thoughts on the build threads too! Plus, I learn a lot along the way. Good luck!

Ok guys, today's project was building the swing out section.  I began by building another section of bench work on the far wall that I would use as the pivot point for the swing out.  Once that was done I built the actual swinging section and it was attached to the fixed bench work with a piano hinge, to carry the weight of the section itself I added legs with wheels attached to allow for it to swing around.  I need to add bracing to those legs for stability and tweak things a bit but overall it functions perfectly.  I built it this way as it was easier for 1 thing and 2 fits with the open grid idea just fine.  More updates coming.....  I also will make a video soon showing this opening/closing ect.

Piano Hinge attached to next section of bench work. 

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New bench work section with swing out built and in place, this is all open grid and the track will be on risers on the bench work and swing out section.

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My old bent level represents loosely where the track will be, below it eventually will be a field/pond. 

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A shot from the new section looking back 

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Same view slightly different angle

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Partially open, legs are in temporarily for a test, I will fit them properly tomorrow and add bracing to them.

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And open, when the 2X4's are gone it will be able to swing a bit further, the legs are just in there temporarily for a test, I will fit them properly tomorrow and add bracing.

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Another over all shot

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Last edited by N&W Class J

Thank you.  The bench work on my old layout was OK but the height was wrong  (for me anyway) and it was pieced together, these sections may be separated if need be.  And by comparison this one is much nicer overall.  I'm putting the rest of the masonite up now and then I'll be moving on to cutting plywood for the sub roadbed.

Finished up around the dang Lally column....I swear there is always 1 ya know...  bench work is complete, lift up section is built I just need to put it in place tomorrow.  Just a few more pics of the corner by the column and a long shot...thank fully there is plenty of room for the track to pass.

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Time to start cleaning up so I have room to work on the plywood.....

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wild mary posted:

Chris as a retired contractor I must say that I'm really impressed with the quality of your bench work.  What are your plans if any for the ceiling?

Thank you very much.  At this point I haven't made up my mind yet on the ceiling, I would like to paint it black but the Mrs. isn't too crazy about that idea.   

I had no problem convincing the Mrs for my black ceiling joists - she had already painted the walls of our bedroom black .

If you are really interested in painting and need to convince the Mrs, search for "black basement ceiling" on Google and click on the images tab.  It's amazing how good the family rooms and living areas look in a basement.

Here's a shot of mine looking down the track with some of the ceiling in view.  It really just disappears and does not cause any closed in feeling.  It actually makes the room feel taller.  Mine is about 60% complete (all hand brushed after I laid the floor and built the layout -   NOT a fun project).  The best solution would have been to spray it before the layout and the floor.

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N&W Class J posted:
wild mary posted:

Chris as a retired contractor I must say that I'm really impressed with the quality of your bench work.  What are your plans if any for the ceiling?

Thank you very much.  At this point I haven't made up my mind yet on the ceiling, I would like to paint it black but the Mrs. isn't too crazy about that idea.   

Chris I've been married for 52 yrs today.  The secret to getting your wife to come around to your way of thinking is to make it appear as though it's her idea.  Time to get creative.  I've had plenty of practice.

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Gregg Laiben posted:

I had no problem convincing the Mrs for my black ceiling joists - she had already painted the walls of our bedroom black .

Really?  Sounds interesting...I like it.

If you are really interested in painting and need to convince the Mrs, search for "black basement ceiling" on Google and click on the images tab.  It's amazing how good the family rooms and living areas look in a basement.

I will do that just so she can see the end result...great idea by the way.

Here's a shot of mine looking down the track with some of the ceiling in view.  It really just disappears and does not cause any closed in feeling.  It actually makes the room feel taller.  Mine is about 60% complete (all hand brushed after I laid the floor and built the layout -   NOT a fun project).  The best solution would have been to spray it before the layout and the floor.

Yes that is exactly what I would like to do and the look that I'm after...everything up there just disappears and lets you focus down on to the layout.  Thanks for the photo that looks really nice!

 

wild mary posted:

Chris I've been married for 52 yrs today.  The secret to getting your wife to come around to your way of thinking is to make it appear as though it's her idea.  Time to get creative.  I've had plenty of practice.

Ha ha....that is so true.  I think I'll give it some thought and see what I can come up with, I think Gregg is on to something with showing her some photos of basement ceilings and such that are already painted that way.  It's very obvious in my photos that the floor joists and duct work really stick out like a sore thumb and now is the time to paint it before I move any further, even the masonite that I have up already that is painted doesn't matter as it is just what I will be attaching my backdrops to so over spray is a non issue.....well I'm just going to have to plant the seed in a creative way and see what happens....

Well the bench work is complete.  I have hung some more masonite for the back drop and built the lift up section and installed it, most of the hinges and structure will be hidden by scenery when I get to that point.  Next will be the storage shelving and hopefully painting the floor joists above.  After that I will be sanding and filling the holes in the masonite and then drawing and cutting out the plywood sub roadbed.

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I see a dehumidifier in your last photo. in order for your swing away and lift up sections to stay reliably true, you'll have to ensure a low variation in the humidity level in your basement. all your lumber looks to be kiln dried so you're in a good place to start. but a good plan to deal with seasonal humidity swings is important.

great progress!

Jay C posted:

The only problem with that method is, once she tells me it's her idea she'll keep hounding me to get it done.  I'll think she's nagging me and think of hundreds of excuses why I can't do it.  Apparently, there's no fool proof plan when one of the duo is a fool!  No. not you Chris!!

Jay

Jay in 52 yrs of marriage I have yet to figure out that part.

wild mary posted:
Jay C posted:

The only problem with that method is, once she tells me it's her idea she'll keep hounding me to get it done.  I'll think she's nagging me and think of hundreds of excuses why I can't do it.  Apparently, there's no fool proof plan when one of the duo is a fool!  No. not you Chris!!

Jay

Jay in 52 yrs of marriage I have yet to figure out that part.

Too funny I was going to say that I haven't figured it out either.    Well good news I just got done showing the Mrs. some pics and she actually is pretty cool with it now that she has seen the final look....shockingly..... so I have to give the credit to Gregg...thank you sir.  And now I just added another item on my to do list.....  guess I'm another fool to add to the list....lol....

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Glad to have helped you convince the Mrs.   I got a quote from a pro painter to spray mine.  He was quoting 2-2.5 days of taping and wrapping every item in the basement, red paper on the floor, covering walls and about 3 hours of actual painting.  That was when I decided I would brush it myself.  That was my second mistake. 

Good luck, your work is inspiring. 

Gregg Laiben posted:

Glad to have helped you convince the Mrs.   I got a quote from a pro painter to spray mine.  He was quoting 2-2.5 days of taping and wrapping every item in the basement, red paper on the floor, covering walls and about 3 hours of actual painting.  That was when I decided I would brush it myself.  That was my second mistake. 

Good luck, your work is inspiring. 

Thank you Gregg....I'm going to spray it all after I put down my drop clothes and block off the vents ect....

Old Goat that fabric looks good also....a very simple creative idea.....

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86TA355SR posted:

I just realized you are O Scale Chris on youtube.  Really enjoy your videos, especially the FEF one you did last summer.  Can't tell you how many times I watched it!

Your bench work was done so quickly-I'm impressed!

Great catch Aaron! 

I've watched Chris's hand laid track videos a bunch of times.  Those are a great resource - thank you.  Now have to check out your weathering video for the MTH water column.

 

...gregg

86TA355SR posted:

I just realized you are O Scale Chris on youtube.  Really enjoy your videos, especially the FEF one you did last summer.  Can't tell you how many times I watched it!

Your bench work was done so quickly-I'm impressed!

Thank you, that is a great engine, needless to say I will be selling it soon.  The bench work did go up fast but I had some great help from my 2 boys...really sped things up a ton.

Gregg Laiben posted:

Great catch Aaron! 

I've watched Chris's hand laid track videos a bunch of times.  Those are a great resource - thank you.  Now have to check out your weathering video for the MTH water column.

 

...gregg

I'm really happy that you enjoyed those videos Gregg, there will be many more coming in the near future.  More on hand laying track, wiring, DCC and so on.

Last edited by N&W Class J
Mark Boyce posted:

Really nice video, Chris!  It really gave me a good idea of how much space you have and oriented me to the different views on your photos.  I'll keep watching!  I'm sorry if I missed you saying earlier, but how high is the top of the benchwork?

Thank you Mark.  That it the one thing with photos...they just don't do a good job of conveying the dimensions and orientation and such.  The top of the bench work sits right now at 49 inches for most of the bench work, but most of the track work will be on risers so the final track height will vary from say 50 inches up to 55 inches approximately.  

Worked on some of the storage space underneath the layout today as well as some more back drop work.

Patching some of the holes.  I'm not too worried about the final appearance as 1/3 to 1/2 of it will get covered during the scenery process and the rest with backdrops from backdrop warehouse.

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Final section of masonite at this end was installed....

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Painted....

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Lower storage shelf framing installed...the Mrs. has a few things Aaaa Hemm to put in here...

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13 years old and he's tired......

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Chris,

Thanks for the photos!  It's looking very good!  With the storage shelves, what will your approach to wiring be?  I want to use the underneath of my layout for storage, and with an open Lgirder approach, I can do a lot of wiring from above, as I did in the past.  My concern is once covered with scenery, how will I easily trouble shoot problems with storage shelves.  I have thought of making roll out pallets for storage, but don't know yet.

Mark, my guess is the shelves are spaced so he can remove enough items to then lay on the shelves when he needs to work underneath, just like you would laying on a dolly under a car. I get dizzy doing that these days, so I also intend to use some kind of rolling shelf platform if I decide to add storage.

Mark Boyce posted:

Chris,

Thanks for the photos!  It's looking very good!  With the storage shelves, what will your approach to wiring be?  I want to use the underneath of my layout for storage, and with an open Lgirder approach, I can do a lot of wiring from above, as I did in the past.  My concern is once covered with scenery, how will I easily trouble shoot problems with storage shelves.  I have thought of making roll out pallets for storage, but don't know yet.

Hi Mark,

          As Dave stated the shelving is spaced out so that I can lay on it if need be but the track is going to be up on risers in this area so the wiring will be done right underneath the track on the side that faces the viewing isle.  Once the scenery begins I am going to make removable sections so that I can access a big portion of the wiring in that area as well as other areas while standing or even sitting on a stool.  I am going to use pink rigid foam insulation for these panels, and while there will be some shrinkage over time I am only using it in the front where I would need to " pull it out" and there are ways to compensate for the shrinkage that will occur.  My main goal here is to be sure that I can access as much as possible on the entire layout after the scenery is in.  The insulation can be painted and carved to form some amazing terrain variations and will lend itself perfectly to my needs, it's not cheap which is why it will only be used as access panels at areas of wiring junctions and turnouts ect.

mike g. posted:

Layout is looking good Chris, I like the storage idea, and if you ever have to trouble shoot anything you have a 13 year old to help you move somethings around.

Mark, you can build the same thing, you would just have to move everything by yourself.

Thank you Mike.  The storage shelves will also be built in other areas of the layout, but in those cases it will be for storing locomotives, passenger and freight cars that are not in use and those will be just deep enough for that stuff so they will not be as deep as these storage shelves are.  I am planning on making plexi-glass "doors" to protect the equipment not in use from damage or the small hands of my nephews.  I am also going to incorporate a built in work bench area for modeling projects, weathering ect.   

Last edited by N&W Class J
N&W Class J posted:
Mark Boyce posted:

Chris,

Thanks for the photos!  It's looking very good!  With the storage shelves, what will your approach to wiring be?  I want to use the underneath of my layout for storage, and with an open Lgirder approach, I can do a lot of wiring from above, as I did in the past.  My concern is once covered with scenery, how will I easily trouble shoot problems with storage shelves.  I have thought of making roll out pallets for storage, but don't know yet.

Hi Mark,

          As Dave stated the shelving is spaced out so that I can lay on it if need be but the track is going to be up on risers in this area so the wiring will be done right underneath the track on the side that faces the viewing isle.  Once the scenery begins I am going to make removable sections so that I can access a big portion of the wiring in that area as well as other areas while standing or even sitting on a stool.  I am going to use pink rigid foam insulation for these panels, and while there will be some shrinkage over time I am only using it in the front where I would need to " pull it out" and there are ways to compensate for the shrinkage that will occur.  My main goal here is to be sure that I can access as much as possible on the entire layout after the scenery is in.  The insulation can be painted and carved to form some amazing terrain variations and will lend itself perfectly to my needs, it's not cheap which is why it will only be used as access panels at areas of wiring junctions and turnouts ect.

Chris,

I like how you are thinking.  I actually stated something similar in the topic on my layout design which anyone can access in the link in my signature.  That is exactly what I was thinking of to make wiring access built into the scenery.  

Now all I need is a thirteen-year-old around to help with the work!    On second thought, maybe I am better by myself; we went through the thirteen-year-old stage more than once!  

Dave,

I am with you, laying on a dolly doing work is something that I'm not interested in doing anymore either.  sitting on a roll-around seat I have isn't so bad.  As you know, I want to have some shelves for extra rolling stock, so Chris' layout construction is interesting me.

Thank you both for addressing my questions.  Working together across the miles, I'm sure all of us will build better layouts than in the old days when we did all our thinking solo.

Mark Boyce posted:

Chris,

I like how you are thinking.  I actually stated something similar in the topic on my layout design which anyone can access in the link in my signature.  That is exactly what I was thinking of to make wiring access built into the scenery.  Now all I need is a thirteen-year-old around to help with the work!    On second thought, maybe I am better by myself; we went through the thirteen-year-old stage more than once!  

Dave,

I am with you, laying on a dolly doing work is something that I'm not interested in doing anymore either.  sitting on a roll-around seat I have isn't so bad.  As you know, I want to have some shelves for extra rolling stock, so Chris' layout construction is interesting me.

Thank you both for addressing my questions.  Working together across the miles, I'm sure all of us will build better layouts than in the old days when we did all our thinking solo.

Hey great minds think alike .  I just like the idea of being able to get at things later, a simple idea and it will work great for both of us.    I must say with regards to your last statement that truer words have never been spoken.  The sharing of ideas, problems, solutions and different approaches to this hobby is what makes it great, there are so many ways to build, model and problem solve.  I have no doubt that if we put our heads together we can all build some great layouts.

Chris...finish off that space where you photo'ed your son laying...make it as nice as possible, and use it as a hiding place for yourself for when the little lady figures out how much this all costs. Remember the Seinfeld show, and how George built a hiding space inside his desk ...took naps in there etc...go for it buddy...

Bob

flanger posted:

Chris...finish off that space where you photo'ed your son laying...make it as nice as possible, and use it as a hiding place for yourself for when the little lady figures out how much this all costs. Remember the Seinfeld show, and how George built a hiding space inside his desk ...took naps in there etc...go for it buddy...

Bob

Ha ha....yeah tell me about it...thank god I got all the 2x4's cheap.......

3/32" predrilled pilot hole with a #1 square drive trim screw for end grain attachment works for me. 

For inclined risers I chop  saw the mounting face of the cleats to match the grade angle so as not to pull a flat spot.  The flat spot can manifest it's self as a very slight vertical "S" curve.  When a loco under strain hits a flat spot it can stall on the subsequent "S" bump as the incline continues.

That is with average quality 1/2".  You will not flex 3/4" Birch.  Even at that, when not angle cutting riser cleats consider toeing in your screw into the high corner of the cleat.

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Tom Tee,

That sounds good.  Avoiding the flat spot is something that many modelers would overlook!  I had forgotten about it until you brought it up.  I would probably have cut and secured a bunch of risers, then realized I went through the same problem on my last layout.  I certainly can learn from mistakes, then forget and have to relearn all over again.  Thank you!!

Mark Boyce posted:

Looks great, Chris!  Are you putting cleats in at the top of the risers?  It looks like not.  I have read some folks do that so you aren't drilling down parallel into the grain of the riser.  I don't think it is necessary if you drill a pilot hole so the riser doesn't split.  Any thoughts on that from anyone?

Thank you Mark, no I am not using cleats.  I first make sure that the top of the riser is perfectly flush with the bottom of the sub roadbed and then I pre-drill with a countersinking bit and when driving the screws I make sure to just snug up the screws, you don't want to over tighten them and create a depression.  With using the 3/4 sanded-ply and pre drilling I am not having any problems this way.  And also as Tom has stated above, cutting your risers to match the incline is a great idea, you always want to have the top of that riser matching up to the sub roadbed perfectly to avoid flat spots/valleys that can occur. 

Peter-  Thank you..I enjoy the carpentry part of the build a lot.

Chris,

Excellent!  Once I thought about it, I never saw the need for the cleats; but I am no carpenter either.  I always drilled with a countersink bit in the past.  I know some folks have used drywall screws, and didn't bother countersinking holes.  To get the screwtop flush, I wonder if that pulls the roadbed down a little too tight as you warned against.

Mark Boyce posted:

Chris,

 I know some folks have used drywall screws, and didn't bother countersinking holes.  To get the screwtop flush, I wonder if that pulls the roadbed down a little too tight as you warned against.

On my old layout in areas that I had used 1/2" ply that is exactly what happened, it basically "cupped" a small area around the screw head but that said I also didn't pay much attention to making sure the tops of the risers were level at that time .  This time around I chose 3/4" ply which is much stronger as you know, and that coupled with pre-drilling and countersinking and insuring a level top to my risers has given me a perfectly flat sub roadbed surface that is properly supported and will allow me to run my wiring in a very easy to reach location.  That 3/4 ply weighs just slightly less than a 59' Cadillac but it was worth it to me.     

Last edited by N&W Class J

Chris, a thought if I may.  looking at your shelf frame work was a flash back for me.  i was requested to rewire an existing layout with shelves positioned such as yours will be.  My first thought was, 'nice".  but I soon  soured on them.  The shelves were somewhat OK for working in one static place, but them were a real restriction for following or pulling wire.  Plus they required my back to assume uncomfortable (READ PAINFUL) positions getting in and out and I could not use my rolling chair. 

For under layout storage I use stackable shelving with custom cut pillars to efficiently use the vertical space on each level sitting on furniture rollers so as to provide a  clear floor space for under layout access.  4  pieces of 1 1/2" dowel available in 1' increments at HD  act as a male plug to hold the plastic tubes on the dollies.

I really like your removable foam panel idea in the foreground.

The benefit of using cleats is the ability of driving screws up into the bottom of the subroadbed.  That way you will always be able to adjust the grade with out disturbing the track.

Consider using deck construction screws instead of drywall screws.  Drywall screws can snap making adjustments a pain.

Tom Tee posted:

The benefit of using cleats is the ability of driving screws up into the bottom of the subroadbed.  That way you will always be able to adjust the grade with out disturbing the track.

Tom, I've had to move entire risers so cleats are at least something to consider. Chris's layout plan looks nice and simple and on one level so his risk of this would be way less than my situation. Like you mentioned, I also put every shelf stack on wheels and has saved me many times.

Chris, it looks like great progress. You'll be ballasting track in no time. Thanks for sharing all of this with us.

Tom Tee posted:

Chris, a thought if I may.  looking at your shelf frame work was a flash back for me.  i was requested to rewire an existing layout with shelves positioned such as yours will be.  My first thought was, 'nice".  but I soon  soured on them.  The shelves were somewhat OK for working in one static place, but them were a real restriction for following or pulling wire.  Plus they required my back to assume uncomfortable (READ PAINFUL) positions getting in and out and I could not use my rolling chair. 

For under layout storage I use stackable shelving with custom cut pillars to efficiently use the vertical space on each level sitting on furniture rollers so as to provide a  clear floor space for under layout access.  4  pieces of 1 1/2" dowel available in 1' increments at HD  act as a male plug to hold the plastic tubes on the dollies.

I really like your removable foam panel idea in the foreground.

Hi Tom,

     The storage shelving that you saw in my earlier photos is only for that area, the rest of the layout that will incorporate additional storage will strictly be for my engines and rolling stock and will only be built deep enough to hold those and as such I will be building those very differently....you'll see when I get to that point...  As for the wiring....  Removable sections of scenery at junction points, turnouts and for access to the tortoise switch machines ect where needed ......and for the rest of the wiring....well lets just say that I have a plan....I could tell you but.....

Tom Tee posted:

The benefit of using cleats is the ability of driving screws up into the bottom of the subroadbed.  That way you will always be able to adjust the grade with out disturbing the track.

Consider using deck construction screws instead of drywall screws.  Drywall screws can snap making adjustments a pain.

When I attached my risers I made sure that the screws were outside the profile of the track and ties so if in the future the need comes to move a riser or replace one all that will be needed will be to remove a small amount of ballast say the size of a quarter...ish in order to unscrew it from above or to install one in a new area and so on, and in order to keep track of where those screws/risers are after the scenery goes in I've taken a photo of each and every one and I am printing all of these out to be kept in a binder down with the layout.   As for adjusting the grades once the track is in and I'm testing everything, it's no harder for me to unscrew the riser from the bench work and adjust up or down then to unscrew from the bench work and/or the cleat.  If an adjustment is needed down the road for some reason after the scenery is in, the same applies, unscrew the riser from the bench work and raise/lower as needed.  If I need to install/move a riser the same applies....not really a big problem.   

Oh I also don't use drywall screws, I use deck screws.

Last edited by N&W Class J
christopher N&W posted:

Tom, I've had to move entire risers so cleats are at least something to consider. Chris's layout plan looks nice and simple and on one level so his risk of this would be way less than my situation. Like you mentioned, I also put every shelf stack on wheels and has saved me many times.

Chris, it looks like great progress. You'll be ballasting track in no time. Thanks for sharing all of this with us.

Thanks Chris, yes the layout is a single level.

Chris:

The bench work looks like it would support an elephant.  Good work.  I notice that you have not put in a suspended ceiling.  I chose not to put one in because I had fits with rodent infestation in the previous house.  It was a little disconcerting to look up at the light panels and see chipmunks and mice running across the light panels.  A friend, with experience in the stage set business, suggested that I have all the joists painted flat black.  I followed his suggestion and hired a professional painting company to spray the ceiling.  All the bare wood seemed to disappear.  Now, unless I call their attention to it, visitors are not aware that the ceiling is unfinished.

Wes 

rtr12 posted:

You are not alone, I left my ceiling in 'all natural plain wood' too. It's the 'look' I am used to seeing. 

Thanks, yeah I like how bright my basement is now, but mostly I just didn't want to spend the $$$ on the paint and such.  I would rather put it towards other things like the order I need to place with ROW for more switch parts...

Penn Division posted:

Now and then a man's hands are tied, and he must do whatever it takes to realize success!

MF

Very true.  I like the challenges of building a layout and I enjoy the process.  Now compared to the work you are doing it pales in comparison...and I must say that I really enjoy the work/modeling you are doing...inspiring to say the least.

N&W Class J posted:

Very true.  I like the challenges of building a layout and I enjoy the process.  Now compared to the work you are doing it pales in comparison...and I must say that I really enjoy the work/modeling you are doing...inspiring to say the least.

Chris,

Thanks so much for the accolades about my work. But don't sell yourself short my friend, you're doing just fine!

MF

WOW!!! Your layout benchwork is AMAZING!!!

My total layout area is 25'x50',with 2'7" shelves in width on the north 44' run that will house my yard & a few industries. The shelf is 37&1/2" high from the floor. The east end has 2'5" wide shelves,same approximate height. I have about a 10' run of shelves 3' wide on the south end then it's water works,i.e. sump pump,water heater,etc.,then I have about another 16' run of shelves 3' wide finishing up the south wall. The shelves on the west end are 3' deep but I can only run about another 10' on that end as desks & furniture take up the rest of that run. So I plan about a 44' run on the north end of the basement,then make a 50' radius curve heading south. I plan to use the south shelf mentioned last for a short industry. The south shelfs will house something. I plan on making a straight run east & west that'll house mainline tracks. My basement's full,but I'll work "over" the obstacles as lumber becomes available.

My "thing" here in my area,is that it looks "cramped" compared to yours,Chris,and I thought you had a shorter area,correct me if I'm wrong. What am I missing? I'm trying to view my layout from my mind's eye while you have a table top laid out. 10 60' grain hoppers fill up a yard track & it makes me think O is going to look "out of place" in  my area. Am I just being paranoid?

Al Hummel

Alan Hummel posted:

WOW!!! Your layout benchwork is AMAZING!!!

Thank you, it's been a project but I'm very happy with it.

My total layout area is 25'x50',with 2'7" shelves in width on the north 44' run that will house my yard & a few industries. The shelf is 37&1/2" high from the floor. The east end has 2'5" wide shelves,same approximate height. I have about a 10' run of shelves 3' wide on the south end then it's water works,i.e. sump pump,water heater,etc.,then I have about another 16' run of shelves 3' wide finishing up the south wall. The shelves on the west end are 3' deep but I can only run about another 10' on that end as desks & furniture take up the rest of that run. So I plan about a 44' run on the north end of the basement,then make a 50' radius curve heading south. I plan to use the south shelf mentioned last for a short industry. The south shelfs will house something. I plan on making a straight run east & west that'll house mainline tracks. My basement's full,but I'll work "over" the obstacles as lumber becomes available.

Sounds like a good plan that should offer some really nice modeling.

My "thing" here in my area,is that it looks "cramped" compared to yours,Chris,and I thought you had a shorter area,correct me if I'm wrong. What am I missing? I'm trying to view my layout from my mind's eye while you have a table top laid out. 10 60' grain hoppers fill up a yard track & it makes me think O is going to look "out of place" in  my area. Am I just being paranoid?

Paranoid?...No, it tells me that you're thinking.  O Scale will definitely chew up space quickly and as such some "modifications" are in order.  In my case I won't be running 100 hoppers full of coal with a Y6 and a Class A on the point with a Y6 pusher,  maybe 30 hoppers on a good day...it will look the part.  I don't think you'll have anything to worry about with your set up.  If need be widen a shelf by a few inches here and there, play with the design a bit in relation to the operations you wish to have.  My tabletop portion is for a bit of a yard and a engine servicing area and is roughly 30 feet long and about 6 feet in depth so it will work well.  The overall length of the layout is 44 feet by 23 feet.  I am also incorporating areas where I can expand in the future if I choose.

Al Hummel

 

Al,

I agree with Chris; I think you will be fine, and am glad you are thinking it through.  I think you have plenty of space for the rolling stock you want to run.

Now, if you look at my topic that I have a link to in my signature (I'm on the iPhone now, or I would put a link here) I weighed the options, and decided against designing a plan that would let me run my Premier J 611 and 18" passenger cars.  My space is only 11 1/2 ft x 11 1/2 ft.  I even decided against running my J on my Ceiling Central RR in the next room, not because I was afraid of it falling off the track, but because I was afraid of dropping it when on a ladder trying to place it on and off the track.  The cars were sold last week, and I'm going to sell the J as well.  I don't have money to leave several hundred dollars just sitting on the shelf.  Ha ha!!

Again, I think you have the space like Chris said for your plans.

hokie71 posted:

I'm green with envy, layout and parts repair in the same place. I had to laugh, viewing your last pictures on a small kindle screen, I thought a few empty brewski bottles had made the scene.... on closer inspection, mega steam!

Lol....there were a few bottles...just out of camera view...  Yeah it works well, I have a chair that is the perfect height for working there...no bending required.

nice work Chris

if I may suggest, when sanding the cork bed, make up a 'long board' sander, as long as you can reasonably handle. it's a trick I learned from boat building that prevents short hollows from a short-base sander, ensuring a nice continuous level surface.

the length of a sheet of sandpaper ought to do well; +-11", even longer is better.

PRR Man posted:

nice work Chris

if I may suggest, when sanding the cork bed, make up a 'long board' sander, as long as you can reasonably handle. it's a trick I learned from boat building that prevents short hollows from a short-base sander, ensuring a nice continuous level surface.

the length of a sheet of sandpaper ought to do well; +-11", even longer is better.

Thank you for the tip!  I appreciate it and I'll be sure to do that.  

mike g. posted:

Looking good Chris! I am kinda lost with the open areas, but then again I am lost on a lot of things. I have found it best for me to just keep fallowing and the crazy thing is buy the end I have learned so much from people like you and many others Chris!

Thank you Mike.  The open areas exist for a few reasons, with the track being on risers it will allow me to create more visually interesting scenery as the track will be elevated.  Also it is going to allow me to do 90% of the wiring from above instead of from below which will make future access much easier. 

I use double sided carpet tape under the cork. Install goes super quick, no drying time, and it comes up if needed without damaging the subroadbed. Best method I've ever used. I also tried it under the track on top of the cork. Install is super fast and it hold like crazy. The problem is trying to get the track up again if you need to. You pretty much can't. The track gets destroyed most of the time. So now I just use it under the cork.

 

JPV69- Thanks you very much!

MikeG- Not with plywood, but it will get covered so to speak when I am doing the scenery work.

MattF- Yes sir...I'm trying to.

Peter- Thanks you very much.

Max- Thanks you, yes they make it in O scale although it's harder to find right now than Bigfoot!  Pulling the staples is ok for me as they come out easily, and I can get a little fore arm workout in.

Last edited by N&W Class J
jonnyspeed posted:

I use double sided carpet tape under the cork. Install goes super quick, no drying time, and it comes up if needed without damaging the subroadbed. Best method I've ever used. I also tried it under the track on top of the cork. Install is super fast and it hold like crazy. The problem is trying to get the track up again if you need to. You pretty much can't. The track gets destroyed most of the time. So now I just use it under the cork.

 

Sounds like a good method, I can see how it would speed things up...and be a bit cleaner.

Tom Tee posted:

For really looooong board sanding you can get a 100 grit 3" wide sanding belt used on a belt sander, cut it, lay it down and   fasten each end of the belt on the ends of a straight/flat piece of 2 x 4 .

That is the exact thought I had after reading Chris' (PRR MAN) suggestion for sanding.  That seals the deal on how I'm going to do it. Thank you Tom.

Thank you Al.  I made the track plan to just help visualize things, and to work from in a loose way, none of it is carved in stone at this time.  Some things will change and some have already so take your time with the planning because it will pay off in a big way when you begin construction.  The changes I have made I anticipated making during the planning process but I needed something 3 dimensional in order to confirm my thoughts.

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