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Originally Posted by DaveJfr0:

Attached is the OK Streamliner 2015 file in PDF format that was in Charlie's post as a .pub.

 

FYI - It says to email credit card orders in 2 separate emails.  FYI - this is still not enough protection - DO NOT DO IT. They should only accept that information over the phone. They say their email (an AOL email) is secure.  That is also not correct.

 

Thanks for converting the file, Dave. Also, I think I'll pay by check.

Originally Posted by bob2:

The Kasiners are spot-on, unlike the plastic overlays.  Sanding off the upper flutes would be truly trivial in comparison to the labor of gluing on a plastic overlay on the bottom, and there would be no glue joint to fail when the paint shrinks.

Okay, so I just checked again with Ok Streamliners and they confirmed that there is no Kasiner extrusion stock left. Ted Brebeck did suggest that old K-Line extrusion would work if I could find it. So, if anyone is looking to unload some Kasiner or K-Line extrusion, please let me know.

 

Also, thanks for the input from the plastic train guys who are contributing to this thread. I think the best "finished" passenger cars end up as hybrids of metal exteriors and plastic interiors.

There was an article years ago about using half rounds to make the proper fluting for streamlined cars.  Union Stations work is very interesting.  You should look into the military airplane model sites as they are using paints that can copy any metal finish you want.  I'm amazed at the work they are doing and am going to try some polished metalizer type paints this winter on plastic sides for the stainless steel look.

Can you elaborate on your spot-on comment?  Compared to what plastic overlays? Paint shrinks and glue joints fail?  Not sure I understand.

 

Sure, Dave. If you glue a plastic set of flutes on a metal side, the bottom of the flutes will be elevated.  The real thing has the bottom of the flutes at the same level as the windows.  (That is not true for the SP cars - their flutes are inside the level of the windows.). Of course you could glue each flute individually.  I would go nuts doing that.

 

There may be a good glue that will hold plastic to aluminum, but I do not know what it is. I have plenty of trouble with Walthers steel sides glued to wood.  If you know of a good glue, let us all know.  I am currently looking for an adhesive that will stick fabric to fabric, and hold it in a 220 hp. slipstream.

Hi Bob

 

I'm not sure if it will help in this case, but I've had success with glueing different materials together using CA, but preparing the surfaces with Loctite 770.  It's a polyolefin primer.

 

The downside is that it sets up very quickly - I mean very quickly.  You need to offer the surfaces up very accurately first time.

 

For what it's worth.

Cheers

Thanks Max.

 

I was having trouble getting a bond with plastic gears on steel axles - a Loctite rep got me some really special primer.

 

We wound up knurling axles - nothing would glue those gears to metal.  

 

I have tried the best aircraft adhesives I could get my hands on - I think I will wind up sewing the fabric before gluing.  On these Walthers coaches I have been using Pliobond, but Martin says a drop of CA turns the Pliobond into really good glue.

 

One of the problems with these C&O cars will be the different thermal expansion between aluminum and plastic.  A year worth of daily temperature changes will probably result in a broken bond.  Not so plastic to plastic, so Ken's cars will stay glued, if you can handle the different height of the flute bottoms.  And remember, the C&O flutes/corrugations are like Kasiner, not like the plastic stuff.  You can see the difference.

Originally Posted by t610:
I will be ordering one, to see how well it works. The thing I am curious about is
if the roof piece shown clear is formed or rolled. It looks flat, and with all the rib pieces one would have to roll it to the ribs and keep it square as well.
 
Just as a side note> If you buy his sides have him cut them with .030" thick styrene. if you have any of the American standard kits this is what they are .030. This will let you use the core.
 
 
Originally Posted by kanawha:

Looks like Union Station Products has now added an O scale passenger car core kit which includes a roof for $40.

 

http://unionstationproducts.com/_ck01.html

 

Ken

 

 

 

Think I'll order one to see how it builds. Delta models has the interior details.

I have placed an order with OK Streamliners for 2 coaches (PS plan 7600), one baggage (PS plan 7609), one Baggage/RPO (PS plan 7603), one diner (PS plan 7608), and one Lunch Counter Buffet Lounge (PS plan 7596A). The Kasiner or ribbed PS streamliners are no longer available, so I ordered all smoothsided cars: the ribbed stainless steel fascia can be applied over the car body when everything else is finished, or at the very least, painted on. I placed the order without trucks and couplers, which lowers the cost per kit by $25. Also, when you order 5 kits, the 6th is free.

 

Now, I need to find some GSC 41-N-11 CIB trucks. Wasatch Model Company makes a very nice 41N truck, but I think it may be for Proto48 gauge and not O-gauge, so I may be out of luck. Precision Scale may have a 41-N-11 truck as well. If anyone knows whether these are Proto48 or O-gauge, please let me know. Also, I'm concerned that these trucks may only have an 8.5' wheelbase instead of the 9' wheelbase shown in the Pulman Standard Library drawings. I made a quick scale drawing of 8.5' vs. 9' wheelbases and the difference is noticeable. I also need to source some Scalecoat paint in D&H colors.

 

Does anyone have any coupler recommendations?

 

In addition to the D&RGW equipment in 1967, the D&H also acquired four ACF 62-seat coaches built to PS plan #W47733 in 1970. The two builders' equipment were used together, with the D&H's older passenger equipment until at least 1977. Once the D&RGW equipment is finished, I may give the ACF cars a try, along with those cool Budd-built domes.

Last edited by ChainsawCHARL1E

My Wasatch trucks are all 5' gauge, with relatively wide tread.  I use dummies on all my passenger cars, because I am not into complicated switching moves.  I put Protocraft on the rear car, and occasionally a Kadee on one end of the baggage car, although a Kadee on the locomotive will generally auto-couple with a dummy.

Originally Posted by bob2:

My Wasatch trucks are all 5' gauge, with relatively wide tread.  I use dummies on all my passenger cars, because I am not into complicated switching moves.  I put Protocraft on the rear car, and occasionally a Kadee on one end of the baggage car, although a Kadee on the locomotive will generally auto-couple with a dummy.

Bob,

Are your Wasatch trucks 8.5' or 9' wheelbase? Are they the 41N model? The 41N's on eBay are really sweet and are a good match for the 41-N-11's shown with the D&RGW equipment in The Pullman Standard Library.

 

Dummy couplers sound like a good idea. I've also had good luck with Kadee 740's: medium shank, all metal, and they pivot.

Up until a week ago I could have helped immediately - I had one pair in original box, and could have measured them.  An attempt at reorganization has put them elsewhere, and the rest are on display at the airport.

 

One thing I can tell you - when a truck is done by Wasatch, it will always be the correct wheelbase.

Originally Posted by jgtrh62:
Hi Charlie,
Have you checked with Roger at Wasatch Models? I saw a note a week or two ago stating he has limited quantities remaining of his O Scale 41-N, 41-ND, 41-CUDO, 61-UDO and Pullman 6410 trucks.
John

John,

Thank-you for the heads up. I have contacted Mr. Lewis and seen the Wasatch 41N trucks on eBay. I understand that they are 5' O-gauge and not Proto48 standard gauge. Now, my concern is their wheelbase: 8.5' vs. 9'. My understanding is that GSC made 41N trucks with both wheelbases. The drawings for the D&RGW equipment in the Pullman Standard Library show a 9' wheelbase, so I'm hoping the Wasatch 41N trucks have a 9' wheelbase. If the Wasatch 41N trucks have an 8.5' wheelbase, then I'll look for something else, such as the PSC 41-N-11 model. The 6% difference in the wheelbases is large enough to notice, so I want to get this right, especially considering what these trucks cost.

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