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Hi all,

I’m in the process of rebuilding my layout I started last October to a 6x16. The extra 2’ in width from 4’ now gives me the option for 3 loops with long sidings. I’ve learned from my mistakes and figured it be easier to change now then complete the plan I had. This forum has been extremely helpful in me realizing what I didn’t know when I started. I’ll be picking up the benchwork extension from Mianne in a couple days. My first mistake was using 2” foam board instead of plywood. The pic is my initial design from Anyrail. I may elevate the outer loop, not sure yet. Another mistake I made (in my opinion) was ballasting fastrack. It just doesn’t look as good against the molded roadbed vs. other track without it. Also, what a pain in having to remove it!

Thank you for all the continuing knowledge in this forum.

Gene

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Last edited by Genemed
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Pic with AnyRail design did not show up; would also help if you posted AnyRail file.  Can't say for sure if your lone 180w 10 amp power supply will be enough; kind of depends on engines you will be running and whether or not any cars are lighted / will be drawing power for other reasons (sound, smoke, etc.).  Also, will switches be drawing track power or separately powered?

Chuck

Last edited by PRR1950

Are you sure you'll be happy with it 3 yrs from now as essentially you are just running loops with very limited switching options and no ability to change direction.  Frequently, folks can live without a way to change direction but without switching options grow bored.  However, if you enjoy running loops than by all means go for it! 

I would suggest changing the design of your bottom siding.  Use the curved section of a LH switch as the last curved piece and enter the siding on the straight section of the switch.  You'll gain 2 feet in length to the siding and avoid a S-curve.

-Greg

Sure, track power will work for track switches, but adjustments to the throttle will affect track power (and thus the speed of the locos) and also the performance of the switches.  If you intend to install TMCC, then 18 volts will be constantly directed to all the rails and switches. The switches would work fine with just 14v connected to them. Further, by providing a separate power source to the switches you "give back" some electrical headroom from a 180-watt "brick" to the locos and operating accessories.

Many hobbyists add bigger and power-thirsty loco to their collection as time goes forward; in which case consider placing a second 180-watt "brick" in the track circuit then, if not sooner, to provide twice the wattage for locos. Lionel makes a wiring connector for that purpose.

I "second the motion" of the responder who suggested adding a reversing loop. Watching trains running in circles may soon become monotonous and boring.

Carry on,  regardless ...

Mike Mottler    LCCA 12394

Last edited by Mike H Mottler
@Greg Houser posted:

Also, the way you have the sidings on your inside loop means that one will be a facing point siding meaning the engine will enter it going forward, instead of reverse.   Just pointing it out in case that matters.

-Greg

Excellent idea on using the 060 curve part of switch, I didn’t think of that. Would it be like using the curve of the switch on the inner loops? The trains will run clockwise on the inner and outer loop and counterclockwise on the middle using the top siding.
I like the ideas of reversing direction but not sure how to design it into my plan and still keep the sidings.

Thanks Greg and all for your input.

Gene

I would also be concerned about single directional running. Here’s my limited but ongoing experience.

I have a 6 x 16 layout (similar to your space) that narrows to 4 ft wide in the middle to accommodate a future control board and operator space. My initial track config was nested 054 and 042 loops with one reversing loop, several spurs for accessories and a long trolley line. The main loops were connected to each other at one point. I could run two trains simultaneously. If running one train it could change directions once without reversing. I posted it on the forum and asked for opinions.  Someone suggested I might lose interest in watching two trains loop around continuously. I agreed so I made major changes.

Attached are pictures of the current config. It now has two nested loops that converge at one point and a long passing siding. There are two reversing loops. Only one train can run at a time but it can go anywhere in any direction without reversing. I can store one train while running another and switch them out using the sidings. Running is interesting and fun but can be pretty harrowing at times. Definitely not boring.

I don’t know if this is the final layout, probably not. I want to build mountains, tunnels and bridges at some point. The wiring stays on the table top until I decide. B6DE17C3-BF76-470F-BA5C-0213255E3C90348F82D1-B9AE-4988-81B1-5785203764DA

@MarkVB posted:

I would also be concerned about single directional running. Here’s my limited but ongoing experience.

I have a 6 x 16 layout (similar to your space) that narrows to 4 ft wide in the middle to accommodate a future control board and operator space. My initial track config was nested 054 and 042 loops with one reversing loop, several spurs for accessories and a long trolley line. The main loops were connected to each other at one point. I could run two trains simultaneously. If running one train it could change directions once without reversing. I posted it on the forum and asked for opinions.  Someone suggested I might lose interest in watching two trains loop around continuously. I agreed so I made major changes.

Attached are pictures of the current config. It now has two nested loops that converge at one point and a long passing siding. There are two reversing loops. Only one train can run at a time but it can go anywhere in any direction without reversing. I can store one train while running another and switch them out using the sidings. Running is interesting and fun but can be pretty harrowing at times. Definitely not boring.

I don’t know if this is the final layout, probably not. I want to build mountains, tunnels and bridges at some point. The wiring stays on the table top until I decide. B6DE17C3-BF76-470F-BA5C-0213255E3C90348F82D1-B9AE-4988-81B1-5785203764DA

I’m interested to see but there’s no image. Other than the size, I’m open to any suggestions.

I installed the benchwork extension yesterday and stained it today. After the excellent info about train reversing, I’ve been searching the forum for any ideas on how to make a 3 loop with reversing and lots of action. I found a 4x16 design by Ken from 2017 that I uploaded to my AnyRail file and did copy and paste within my 060 loop. I had to modify it a bit, but I shouldn’t get bored with the design. There seems to be a lot going on with some future options. Thanks to all and Ken (if you get to see this post).

GeneC223C95A-D7FF-4FF0-8AD4-8FF5C7AD7A1D8D8E4BD7-A633-4A90-A80A-A7B85C25597B8F1D91CC-CFD5-4566-9D27-989BEB4098B8

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Rebuild update: painted the plywood and installed track. I should be getting 2 sets of graduated trestles today for the outer loop. I’ll be using the 1/4” shim method I learned about here under every other base. Also installed a panel I made for the Woodland Scenics lighting. I think it should be easier and neater than the mishmash of wires I had on the last layout.

Gene9ACACDA5-2192-4FEF-A4B5-EA5A22B874CEAA3D2FB6-0573-40EF-8791-1E097A09F8F4

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Gene

Have you considered using a couple of new switches to connect the inside loop to the outside loop?

That will allow one train to traverse the whole layout and allow reversing the the one train on the outside loop.

Charlie

Hi Charlie,

I did consider that, but by using 2 sets of trestles with the 1/4 shim it will utilize just about the whole outer loop less the one track on either side of the closest siding. If in the future I want to join the outer and inner loops, I’ll lessen the perimeter incline and add switches in the front.

Gene

Sure, track power will work for track switches, but adjustments to the throttle will affect track power (and thus the speed of the locos) and also the performance of the switches.  If you intend to install TMCC, then 18 volts will be constantly directed to all the rails and switches. The switches would work fine with just 14v connected to them. Further, by providing a separate power source to the switches you "give back" some electrical headroom from a 180-watt "brick" to the locos and operating accessories.

Many hobbyists add bigger and power-thirsty loco to their collection as time goes forward; in which case consider placing a second 180-watt "brick" in the track circuit then, if not sooner, to provide twice the wattage for locos. Lionel makes a wiring connector for that purpose.

I "second the motion" of the responder who suggested adding a reversing loop. Watching trains running in circles may soon become monotonous and boring.

Carry on,  regardless ...

Mike Mottler    LCCA 12394

Mike, I agree with you In principal ;  but one size doesn’t fit all.

I ran across a problem on a friend’s layout. He runs Ross switches with Zstuff motors an in some cases a Zstuff relay. The relays control power rails on a double crossover. The relays were acting up and Dennis cautioned that the voltage should be 13 volts. Problem solved.  

Moving along Gene. Ken has posted some great plans. I believe he has a complete library on the forum.

Some more suggestions since we all like to armchair quarterback

The two long spur sidings- if you add a pair of switches they could double as passing sidings and allow an engine to pull a train in, exit the siding, come around, and push the train in the rest of the way. I marked the locations in blue. This will also increase the operational variety but having a pair of trains ready to go on those two loops.

The switches on the middle loop could be curved type as mentioned previously which would extend the length of the siding too.

Genemed plan1

You mentioned not ballasting fastrack. I did just the sides on the few sections I have and like the results. I painted a heavy coat of white glue on the sides and sprinkled the ballast on. I used a floral gravel that I found at Michael's.

2017-08-07 19.35.322017-08-07 19.35.45

Keep up the good work.

Bob

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@RSJB18 posted:

Moving along Gene. Ken has posted some great plans. I believe he has a complete library on the forum.

Some more suggestions since we all like to armchair quarterback

The two long spur sidings- if you add a pair of switches they could double as passing sidings and allow an engine to pull a train in, exit the siding, come around, and push the train in the rest of the way. I marked the locations in blue. This will also increase the operational variety but having a pair of trains ready to go on those two loops.

The switches on the middle loop could be curved type as mentioned previously which would extend the length of the siding too.

Genemed plan1

You mentioned not ballasting fastrack. I did just the sides on the few sections I have and like the results. I painted a heavy coat of white glue on the sides and sprinkled the ballast on. I used a floral gravel that I found at Michael's.

2017-08-07 19.35.322017-08-07 19.35.45

Keep up the good work.

Bob

Bob,



Would you mind sharing the name of the product at Michael's? That is good looking ballast.

@RSJB18 posted:

Moving along Gene. Ken has posted some great plans. I believe he has a complete library on the forum.

Some more suggestions since we all like to armchair quarterback

The two long spur sidings- if you add a pair of switches they could double as passing sidings and allow an engine to pull a train in, exit the siding, come around, and push the train in the rest of the way. I marked the locations in blue. This will also increase the operational variety but having a pair of trains ready to go on those two loops.

The switches on the middle loop could be curved type as mentioned previously which would extend the length of the siding too.

Genemed plan1

You mentioned not ballasting fastrack. I did just the sides on the few sections I have and like the results. I painted a heavy coat of white glue on the sides and sprinkled the ballast on. I used a floral gravel that I found at Michael's.

2017-08-07 19.35.322017-08-07 19.35.45

Keep up the good work.

Bob

Bob, excellent idea on the siding switches, I didn’t think of that. Great knowledge and experience on this forum. I’m not planning on any scenery for a bit for reasons like this. I’ll play around with that idea on the program. Strictly my opinion, I’m planning on using turfs and grasses against the roadbed of the fastrack. I used Brennan’s on my last layout and could never be satisfied with difference in colors against fastrack, again (just my opinion). I still have a bag+ of it I’m not going to use.

Gene

Hi Gene,  Looking really good!  You row of buildings along the track could be landscaped in by making the track part of the main street, sort of like a trolly/main line.  Given the look of the buldings, it may work out for you.  You just need to elevate the buildings and street to be the same height as the track.  Best,   

A great idea from Dave B about the buildings. As it is road access to them would be limited. Take a look at photos of Ashland VA where the double track still runs down the middle of main street, depot in the street. Sees over 50 trains a day CSX and Amtrak regionals and long distance trains. Has a great hotel with a balcony with a view of the tracks and a great hobby shop. My wife and I are planning a few days vacation there soon.

Update changes: moved some buildings to make room for another block siding. With some helpful suggestions, I connected the outer and middle loop and isolated it with a block toggle. All my sidings are isolated. Added a paved area at the train/freight depot and fire station. Marked where the gravel walk will be to the right of the station depot.
Just enjoying the hobby!30930469-99FA-4B74-9995-0557772CDB8D0DA31713-9363-49A5-8825-E5AD825C4044CBD903AA-CDE2-470E-8830-206D818749127AF9B772-0811-4EB5-822E-35F116F751AE07FBD421-3B30-49F8-9947-390A166BD0A39C536553-ACB9-4450-BC5A-9808538594D344751C57-D9E9-4A5A-AC6C-6700A3F7C7A0

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Update: added siding block #8 toggle, just waiting on the switch to arrive. Painted the interior fire station floor and gas station apron a concrete gray color. Repainted the trestle base blocks gray to match. I’m looking to replicate a concrete footing/slab the pier base would sit on. Added some gravel sidewalks at the train station and building area. I’ve been working on earth and greenery mock-ups of different variations.

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@RSJB18 posted:

Gene- from blank slate to trains running in no time. Nice work.

I'm with Andy, check out this video from Rich Melvin.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...no-to-vertical-video

Bob

I have always thought those vertical videos are awful, so much is lost in the blank spacel.  Why is it that Apple videos are vertical? My kids all have apple, and they send video clips that are vertical.

@Wood posted:

I have always thought those vertical videos are awful, so much is lost in the blank spacel.  Why is it that Apple videos are vertical? My kids all have apple, and they send video clips that are vertical.

Because everyone holds their phones vertical. It's a formatting conflict between the vertical format of smart phones, and the horizontal of the computers and TV's. So far horizontal seems to be winning.

Just turn the phone 90 deg.....problem solved.

Bob

I’ve been working on a couple projects.
Built the locomotive maintenance platforms and painted.  
Built 4 base platforms so the top of maintenance platform is level with the locomotive catwalk.
Made a base platform to raise the diesel fueling station I purchased from Alan. His work is excellent! The pictures he posts does no justice to seeing his work in person. The platform is longer than the fueling station to accommodate a future sand tower facility.
I’ll post pics after the final paint is completed on the base platforms and on the layout.

Gene

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I’ve been slowly working on a corner tunnel with scratch built portals. With an inclined outer loop I had to over size the height allowing a tall enough pass through. It makes for an unusual looking piece. I did the best I could to make it look like a tall concrete retaining wall. I’m sure it will look fine when I add trees and greenery. I originally wanted a base for a mountain, now I’m thinking on a stand alone industrial scene of some kind with lighting.

Gene

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Another update:

Been working on another scene section with layers of fine and coarse turf followed by underbrush, bushes and lichen.  
Had to modify the raised platform the fueling station was on to accommodate the acf centerflow hopper car and a sand tower which was a gift for Xmas. The original design for the tower came from the late Joe Fauty. Alan Graziano built this for me as a tribute to Joe. I’m proud to display this on my layout. Alan is in the process of making a pneumatic conveying system to move the sand from the acf hopper to the tower.

Gene

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@Mark Boyce posted:

Gene, the grass and raised platform look great!  Did I read that right; “The late” Joe Fauty!!  I hadn’t seen him post, but didn’t know.

Thanks again Mark, joining the forum last May I didn’t know who Joe was when I read the post. I have since been reading some of his past posts and what a model craftsman he was! I’ve been researching the website Model Structures Inc., do you know if he worked there or was that his business? He has mentioned that site in some of his posts.

Gene

Next update:

Been working on the last section of ground cover. I made my own blend to look earthy and rocky. I layer my ground cover with paint and then second layer with mod podge. The third layer is dabs of glue with course turfs. It’s a bit of a longer process but I’m not a fan of spaying scenic cement at all.
In the process of building a small farm scene with 2 buildings.

Gene

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Thanks Andy, I was a bit unsure how the tunnel would turn out being so high with the elevated track. Once I added the portals I made, painted and weathered the wall it’s looking more appealing. I would like to make another scene to look like the wall was purposely built for it. Maybe some kind of a smaller tank farm or petro/chemical plant that I could kit bash something and make it fit in that odd shape?

Gene

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@RSJB18 posted:

Just caught up on your last few posts Gene. The layout is coming together. Nice work on the sanding tower and ground cover.

I'm interested in your metal tray and magnets for holding parts while the glue sets. Did you buy this or was it something you had laying around?

Bob

Bob, I bought it with misc. building supplies a while ago at MicroMark. I found it to be a great tool for gluing my buildings and keeping the parts square.

Gene

@Genemed posted:

Bob, I bought it with misc. building supplies a while ago at MicroMark. I found it to be a great tool for gluing my buildings and keeping the parts square.

Gene

I've seen the sets of square magnets they sell. The tray is a great addition. I haven't built a building in a while but I will invest in the tools before I do. Keeping the parts aligned is always the toughest part of model building.

Thanks

@mike g. posted:

Gene, You really have out done yourself! Your layout is looking so amazing! I will have to keep your detail in mind when I get to that point!

Thank you Mike. There are times I wish I had the extraordinary finesse of some forum members with their over the top ideas and fine detailing. Being extremely OCD, I have a problem scaling down realistic details because in my eyes it’s not neat! Edging between asphalt, gravel, and grass has to be perfect, which isn’t realistic to some modelers. When I glued this shovel to the post it wasn’t plumb. When my girlfriend came down to see the progress I told her I was going to fix it and she said “it looks fine, it’s not always perfect”.

Gene

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@pennsyfan posted:

@Genemed

“Edging between asphalt, gravel, and grass has to be perfect,”

Gene, you just reminded me of a scene from my youth. This lady down the block sat on her lawn and cut the grass with a pair of scissors!

🤪

Bob, rather than start a new post, how can I reply using the @ and name like you did and I’ve seen others do multiple times within a reply?  

@Genemed first of all, your layout really looks great.  Ken really packs in a lot of running possibilities into all his designs!  You did it well.  I’m somewhat the way you say you are, I like my scenery to be just so.

as for typing in the link, just start with the @ symbill, you will see it is dark, then type the first letter and you will see a pop up appear with suggestions.  Keep typing until you see the name you want, then click on it, and it should appear like yours did above

@Mark Boyce posted:

@Genemed first of all, your layout really looks great.  Ken really packs in a lot of running possibilities into all his designs!  You did it well.  I’m somewhat the way you say you are, I like my scenery to be just so.

as for typing in the link, just start with the @ symbill, you will see it is dark, then type the first letter and you will see a pop up appear with suggestions.  Keep typing until you see the name you want, then click on it, and it should appear like yours did above

Easy enough, I’ll try that. Thank you

test:  

@pennsyfan I believe I got it!

Started another project. I’m adding another connected loop and framing for the background. I will need to make a hinged access on the curved section joining the existing track. I’ve referenced a few posts but haven’t seen any with a single curve section hinged. I made a template of the connecting section to help with the angles before cutting. Here’s some pics on the progress so far.

GeneIMG_5619IMG_5617IMG_5620IMG_5622IMG_5625IMG_5623Gene's 3.75 loop with 10 sidings connected

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  • Gene's 3.75 loop with 10 sidings connected
@Richie C. posted:

Where the Fastrack will be resting directly on wood, you might want to consider adding some roadbed to soften the noise.

There is a seller on the 'bay who sells 1/4" thick foam roadbed specifically wide enough for Fastrack in lengths that can be cut to size.

Richie, that was also a worthy suggestion when I began the layout. The existing track is screwed down on 1/2” plywood without any sound deadening. It works fine for me. I’ve noticed when running trains at higher speeds the loudness obviously is more noticeable. I run my trains at this speed or less in the video. I don’t mind the distinct sound of the truck wheels at the track joints, I find it kind of pleasing.

Thanks, Gene

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@Mark Boyce posted:

Gene, nice run!  The outside loop is a great idea!  Your backdrop framing puts mine to shame!  👍🏻

Thanks Mark, my original plan was just to make the backdrop frame. Having the space, I figured it would be nice to have the outer loop extended. On the left of the plan I will eventually add  more sidings for a yard. My dilemma will be somehow making the return loop to the existing track hinged. That would be my only access to the back.

@mike g. posted:

Gene great looking change up and I love the video of your trains! What speed it that?

Also as for your single lane going to the outer wall you could just hinge it at the wall and let it drop down against the wall.

Thanks Mike, I have no idea what speed I run. Being a latecomer, I missed the availability of a base/cab 2. Until my base 3 comes in I run with the app and universal remote. I’m going to work on the back wall first then I’ll reach out for some advice on the hinge section.

Gene

@RSJB18 posted:

I like the added loop Gene.

Since you only have a single track that you need to lift, why not just make a lift out section? Much easier to build than a hinged section. Don't forget the block sections to kill power to the tracks when the lift out is open.

Bob

Thanks Bob, I thought about a lift out but felt it would be a nuisance for the amount of times I would need to access the back. I tested the hinged section before painting, it actually works well. I referenced the idea from @mike g. but had it lift up instead of dropping down.(thanks Mike)

GeneIMG_5666IMG_5667

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I’ve been working on a plan to add a turntable to my layout. I removed the O36 inside loop to make room. I went with a TT that didn’t require cutting a whole and moving the Mianne supports. I realize I removed the reversing loop, but since I added the extra shelf loop I hardly occupy the O36. Reversing would have to be done with a O36 minimum curve locomotive anyway. I know I’ll get more use out of the TT. With the expertise help of @gunrunnerjohn, I moved forward. This is my progress since Monday.

GeneIMG_2018IMG_2019IMG_2020IMG_2022IMG_2021IMG_5978IMG_5979Gene's 2.75 loop with 8 wiskers

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Last edited by Genemed

Finished all whisker tracks today. Added new corresponding labels to the toggle switches. Unfortunately the Atlas and fastrack do not line up perfectly in height using the Lionel transition track and Atlas transition pins. It works fine, just have to go slow, which isn’t a problem seeing how it’s on the whisker tracks. I wouldn’t want to use them on the main lines.

GeneIMG_6005IMG_6008IMG_6012IMG_6013IMG_6016

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A couple quick videos of the TT in action. For the cost, I’m pleased with the Atlas TT. It may not look as good as the higher end models, but it does the job. Also planning on my various scenes with my existing buildings and vehicles(the fun part), subject to change many times. A big thank you to @gunrunnerjohn for helping me with the electrical setup.

GeneDJI_20230523_133657_468DJI_20230523_132049_313DJI_20230523_133634_248

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Videos (2)
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DJI_20230523_133128_074_video
@Genemed posted:

Finished all whisker tracks today. Added new corresponding labels to the toggle switches. Unfortunately the Atlas and fastrack do not line up perfectly in height using the Lionel transition track and Atlas transition pins. It works fine, just have to go slow, which isn’t a problem seeing how it’s on the whisker tracks. I wouldn’t want to use them on the main lines.

GeneIMG_6005IMG_6008IMG_6012IMG_6013IMG_6016

Seems like you should be able to get a closer height match.

Playing cards make good shims. Perhaps you can substitute a few where needed in place of what you're currently using and they should fit nicely under the FT.

@Richie C. posted:

Seems like you should be able to get a closer height match.

Playing cards make good shims. Perhaps you can substitute a few where needed in place of what you're currently using and they should fit nicely under the FT.

@Richie C. It’s the actual pin that has the discrepancy. When you attach one end to the Atlas track and the pin in the fastrack transition piece the metal between the Atlas joiner and pin is a bit to long. If it were shorter the height would be closer to perfect. That’s why I had to shim the fastrack. With the vertical metal piece being a bit longer than needed it raises the fastrack up.

GeneIMG_6036

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@mike g. posted:

Gene Love the progress on your town and the asphalt looks outstanding! I hope you will spill the beans on how you went about making it look so nice!

Thanks Mike. I’ll do my best explaining.
Once I decide on the placement of the buildings (after a couple days of running trains while looking it over), I mark on the table where they go. I then plan on where the vehicles will park, most of them at the station. I use my marking jigs I made for the asphalt areas and gravel sidewalks. Being OCD, there’s lots of measuring off the buildings for size and accuracy. Then the masking tape comes in. I start with the parking areas first. I put a thick layer of Mod Podge then heavily sprinkle WS fine cinders. The next day I remove the excess with a brush to be reused, then vacuum the rest. I then move on to the placement of the gravel sidewalks and do the same with a mix of the cinders and fine buff ballast. Under the docks and stoops I glue WS earth blend. Under the docks will also get some coarse turf and underbrush like the picture shows. The next step is to add just a few WS boulder ready rocks then mask where the buildings are and start layering the turfs. My scenery is nothing like the level of realism I’ve seen here, but it works for me.

GeneIMG_6120IMG_6121IMG_6123IMG_6124IMG_6125IMG_6126

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Just caught up on all the changes Gene. I love the TT and the new town is shaping up nicely.

A suggestion on the transitions from Atlas to FT. Have you thought about shimming the track to the right height and soldering the rails together? I've made a few adapters from tubular to other brands buy this method. You would have to be careful not to melt the plastic on the FT.

I've been designing a track plan for a possible new layout (if my kids ever leave the house.... ), and had a Atlas TT in an earlier version. I've since changed the area to a service facility with an engine shed but the TT is still an option.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Just caught up on all the changes Gene. I love the TT and the new town is shaping up nicely.

A suggestion on the transitions from Atlas to FT. Have you thought about shimming the track to the right height and soldering the rails together? I've made a few adapters from tubular to other brands buy this method. You would have to be careful not to melt the plastic on the FT.

Thanks Bob, I never thought about soldering the track, and my soldering ability is about subpar. Considering it’s a slow moving operation, it seems to work fine for now. It would be easier to find the older style 6095 pins, being the correct height (which I thought I was buying) as someone mentioned on another topic. I don’t plan on ballasting the TT area for a while hoping I’ll find the correct pins. Here’s a couple videos showing the height difference in motion.

Gene

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DJI_20230526_102554_895_video
DJI_20230526_101121_134_video
DJI_20230526_101121_134_video

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