Running O Gauge Outside

Gargraves is available with all rails stainless steel.

Look up forum member joe barker. He has posted many great pictures of an outdoor club layout in San Leandro California. 

Yes, I believe there are a few folks around here that run O gauge outside and have posted pictures here. I think Joe Barker may be one of them (sorry if I  got that wrong)? (Edit: Looks like it is Joe from post above.)

Gragraves has stainless steel rails, but wooden ties, not sure if ties are treated for outside or not? Atlas-O may be the only track that has suitable rails (nickel-silver) and plastic UV resistant ties, which would probably hold up better outside.

Serendipity! I was just thinking of posting the very same topic today. I remember seeing a video on a train museum that had an o gauge outdoor train. I'm pretty sure I saw it on the Lionel Tracks website: Tracks.lionel.com -- rather than a post here. Lionel is doing a summer garden RR segment, which has been G -- except for this one story.  However, their search feature didn't pick it up So I can't find it.  My guess is it was in the last couple of months or so.

If you you can locate it, the museum would be a great source for information.

Tomlinson Run Railroad

Some folks here in the Pittsburgh area have an O gauge layout in their back yard. 
The use Trex for roadbed and trex elevated posts to keep everything a few feet above ground level. Atlas track on top. 

They have a website but I can't recall the address.

Trex is a great idea! Lot's of possibilities there for laying track without fussing with the natural landscape too much and yet you could then fill it in with plantings at the right night to hide it or stone/brick work.  I've been eyeing my Trex deck lately as a compromise as it would hold my current layout and an oval as a bonus but suspect I'd have to counter sink some of the nails for safety. It would also greatly simplify the wiring. :-). I do wonder about wiring for outdoor layouts.  And I'd also worry a bit with keeping outdoor track clean from vegetation, sap, and the like. (Lots of trees in Tomlinson Run.)

TRRR

Bob,

Engineer Joe, just posted his outside deal,  and Electroliner in N Carolina, I think has

placed his yard on here before, 

This article on O scale outdoor gardens mentions Gargraves and Atlas ... http://familygardentrains.com/.../o_gauge_outside.htm

Tomlinson Run Railroad

One thing to watch out for is HDPE (high-density polyethylene) "lumber". If you're using it as roadbed material (the ladder technique) be careful with Atlas track. It expands and contracts at a greater rate than the Atlas rail and ties and will cause problems if you screw the track directly to it. A better technique would be using zip ties and lots of curves to soak up the thermal expansion/contraction.

Bob Karlsson used PVC from Lowes to do his outdoor layout and it doesn't seem to have any problems, even with the track screwed down to it. He did a tutorial on the construction on a YouTube video here.

By the way, if you have the space, GO BIG on your curved track. Making ladders and curves with broader radius will be much easier.

Bob - There is lots of info scattered across the internet on going outdoors with O-gauge. The link to family garden trains is probably a good place to start. That said, I am about 3 years into researching, building and testing my own designs for commercial release - if I can ever get it all past the legal beagle. I have only used Atlas O track as it is the only track with UV protected ties. So, here are some odds n ends I can tell you about.

Open frame design.  Mounting the track on a solid surface holds heat (and water) and will cause the ties to break down faster. PVC, Trellex, etc are easy to work with - but all have their limitations. Pressure treated lumber limits the selection of fasteners due to the chemical content. I have a 20 ft section of straight track sitting on top of a PT deck railingfor 3 years now. It is not clear if the brittleness of the ties is a result of any one factor (heat, cold, PT lumber, rain, etc) or combinations of any/all.

Your particular environment is probably the single largest determining factor: temperatures, trees, landscaping, slopes and slants - right down to the type of dirt. Frost heave and extreme heat can wreak havoc.

Elevate. Raising the structure off the ground - even by a couple inches does wonders. Track on the ground will get covered in mud splatter from rain, and your engines will get gummed up much faster. Also, the ties will retain moisture (all plastics do to varying degrees) and will rot faster. Also, raising it up to 24" or so really spares the back from constant stooping.

Try to avoid nailing down the track at every point. The outdoor environment subjects the track to greater extremes of contraction and expansion - so you will need to compensate by allowing sections to 'float'. FWIW - My initial test was a 40" piece. I measured it at room temp, then put it in the freezer for a couple hours, then put it outside in the blazing Texas sun. From "normal" you can expect about 1/8" variance each way...just a hair less than 1/4" total.

Unless you have a rail bender - using flex track is one heck of a challenge.  Alignment of the ends is only one aspect.  Remember that if you just flex the track - it's natural tendency to return to its original shape will be exerted against your posts.  You can minimize the alignment issue by staggering the rails by a couple inches each so that none 'break' at the same point.

Power. Yes, you can run power thru the rails - and you will need to clean the surface of the track often. Battery power is the better option if you can convert engine units to meet your needs. Also, there are some wireless remote control options that will fit nicely inside the O-gauge chassis. B-units, tenders, box cars, etc can be fitted with battery packs.

While all of the kinks haven't been worked out (or some even addressed) for Outdoor O gauge, it is still quite doable.

I'm glad you chimed in, Mark. I had been meaning to E-mail you about how Atlas track was holding up over time. I'm planning to go with elevated ladder roadbed for three big reasons -- the track can "breathe" due to air circulating on all sides, saving my back and knees, and reducing the crud and debris on the rails. This is assuming the wife lets me build outdoors (who am I kidding, I'm going to beg for forgiveness rather than ask permission).

Bob,

I run o gauge outside on a combined 1 gauge/o gauge track on which I can run 2-rail and 3-rail trains. I use Tenmille (http://www.tenmille.com/index.html) nickel silver flexible rail which has plastic moulded sleepers with UV and heat protection.  The track is already 25 years in my garden and still OK. You have to take care of good electrical contact (preferably solder every rail-length) and before a running session wipe the rail with rail cleaning block (I use an LGB one).

You can see it here:

Regards

Fred

Matt - I see a 'doghouse' in your future!  LOL!

This venture has been a very long road. About the time I think I've got it all squared away - kapow! - some aspect shows teeth. I had to back-peddle on a promise - which actually ended up making me even more determined to make it all work. Challenges and tangents have chewed up lots of resources.... not to mention the 6ft rattler in my old "shed" that gave me such the heebie-jeebies - well, I built a whole new workshop. Four pieces of trim, some caulking and a coat of paint and it will finally be done - with zero access for snakes! I'm hoping all will come together for next spring.

I agree the ladder approach helps to alleviate inevitable deterioration. Teh construction is a bit more challenging - but definitely worth the effort in the long run. As for the Atlas track - outside of the ties getting brittle - the rails have held up just fine. I haven't tried re-bending yet, and I do have reservations as to how successful that will be.

FWIW - I found the kinda-sorta best all around height was about 20-22 inches off the ground. Going lower put my spine out of place. Going over 36" meant posts had to be seated deeper to maintain stability...and digging 150 holes 18" deep is nowhere to be found on my bucket list!

every now and then I get the bug and set some track up outside

Fred,

I too like your elevated approach, not to mention your choice of trains.  What are your posts made of and how did you sink them into the ground? concrete? Something moisture proof?  And what keeps them upright and from shifting with the seasons? Also, it looks like there are some thinner metal braces Here and there?

Reading these posts, I can see that an outdoor track takes lots of advanced planning, investment, and upkeep.  They look so cool and effortless when running.  Having just mastered track on the living room carpet, I think I'll be running on the deck for a while to satisfy the "outdoor urge".  At least until I'm no longer paying for school; I'm just imaging my future free time and tuition budget as a train time and budget! Not only the backyard, but the sky's the limit then! :-)

Tomlinson Run Railroad

Here is a link to the G&O Story on this forum.  It is an O gauge garden railroad.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/t.../the-gandamp-o-story

Joe

Just use the same track us large scale folks use...that is Sunset Valley code 250 stainless steel. Set it and forget it.

 http://www.sunsetvalleyrailroad.com/track---rail.html

Not here, Bob. Could not imagine it with our tough winters.

The whole substructure of my outdoor layout is made of galvanized iron. Galvanizing has kept the rust out completely. The post are about 3 feet in the ground with a cross-member welded to the post at about 1.5 feet so they do not shift. The ballast is in a kind of iron gutter; to keep them aligned they are braced. The track is laid loose, not fixed at all, in the ballast-bed.

The track outside is used in all seasons, as you can see here:

Regards

Fred

GG also make stainless with plastic ties for outdoor use.

Fred,

Thanks for providing the construction details.  This is very impressive. Your structure gives a real sense of running a train outdoors without the overhead of planning a garden and a full landscape. You can use what you've got to good effect as it is. (Although garden design would hold appeal for those with green thumbs.) Great winter shot.

Best,

TRRR

Update: YIIKES!  Did I somehow remove your original video when I edited this reply?  If so my sincere apologies!  I was trying to prevent repeating copying it in my own reply.  Hopefully, you can read post it without too much effort.  Gosh, I thought I was a bit more computer literate than that!  Sorry.

TR3