S gauge FlyerChief GP7's are arriving from dealers...tell us your views and/or reviews.

We seem to have two threads going on that are very similar, but here's my "solution" to my UP Geep's poor performance.  I went to the auto part store to find those stick-on weights.  They had them but they're no longer made of lead (Pb).  Are they afraid we're going to eat them or something?   Oh well.  They're still heavy and have adhesive on them (they're iron, BTW).   The ones I got are in .25 oz. increments.  I added a total of 1.5 oz. and it made a difference.  I tested it on  my layout, and it pulled my 7 cars up the grade with no wheel slipping.  On level track, I'm sure more can be pulled.  I also cleaned the track and wheels, but they were fairly clean to begin with.  So here's my weights in place. 

They had to be staggered like this to clear the shell.  It was a tight fit, but they fit nicely (notice the pencil marks on the deck).  I couldn't add any weights in the front of the motor due to the wires for the electro-coupler.  By the way, in the process, I broke a wire leading to the coupler, but was able to re-solder it in place after carefully removing the Mylar tape surrounding the coil.  I know, I know.  I voided the warranty, but at this point, it doesn't matter any more.  In the process, I also mixed up a batch of Testor's Model Master grey paint to try to match the UP grey so I can paint the pilots.  They aren't a perfect match, but they're look better than black.  If I find a better match, I'll repaint them, but for now, it's fine.  I've tried matching Lionel colors in the past, and they're difficult to match, but I used to use Floquil paints.  They're no longer available, so I use whatever I can find, but NO KINDERGARTEN WATER BASED FINGER PAINTS! 

 

 

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What I do not understand is why there is such a large variance in pulling power experienced by the owners of these engines. As I commented in the other thread my new UP pulled 14 Gilbert freight cars up a 2% grade around a 180 degree curve, no signs of slippage. When I get some free time I will see how many cars it will pull up a 2.4% grade before slipping or stalling.

Tom

poniaj posted:

 

While I was perusing the insides, I noticed that the circuit board had a couple empty sockets.  I wonder what they're for?

Programming connectors. Top right is Bluetooth. One in center is engine code.

Dave Olson

Director of Engineering

Lionel LLC

The test results are in. 20 car freight, 2% grade, 180 degree curve. The UP was able to strart the train on this grade, slight wheelspin while accelerating, none at steady speed. I was surprised how much force it took me to pull the train by hand, indicates I need to lube the wheelsets! This engine is a great puller. 

Here is a picture of the test area.

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Tom

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poniaj posted:

 I removed the shell to determine where any weight can be put.  

 

There is a bit of room between the motor and the circuit board:

I'm going to get some lead stick-on weights from the auto parts store tomorrow and see if it makes any difference.

 

 

 

 

 

Jerry, I agree that adding weight by the motor will help. With the space shown it looks like you could secure  tall slender pill bottles on both sides of the motor...front and rear. Then you could add lead pellets or BB's and add the cap. Maybe that way you can add precise amounts of weight by varying the amount of pellets.

Mark

katy409 posted:

AmFlyer - that’s what I am looking for !   I do not understand the difference of pulling power!   That much motor difference?      

Dave Olsen - on the next run of the GP7 - any chance of having two motors and adding some weight ?      

It isn't that you motor is any different to others, if the wheels are slipping it has the power but just can't lay it down to the track.

Could it be that one of the wheels is not touching the track and causing a problem, clutching at straws now.

banjoflyer posted;

 Jerry, I agree that adding weight by the motor will help. With the space shown it looks like you could secure  tall slender pill bottles on both sides of the motor...front and rear. Then you could add lead pellets or BB's and add the cap. Maybe that way you can add precise amounts of weight by varying the amount of pellets.

Mark

There's no room in front of the motor due to the wires leading to the electro coupler and the light holder in front of the shell.

 

  The weights I added can be augmented by more if needed.  I'll try to add more cars on a grade for my own benefit to see what this thing can do.  I have no doubt that on level track it can do much better.  (I still like the grey pilots. )

 

 

 

 

katy409 posted:

Dave Olsen - on the next run of the GP7 - any chance of having two motors and adding some weight ?      

Can't add a second motor but looking into adding weights near the motor.

Dave Olson

Director of Engineering

Lionel LLC

Question for Dave:

Is there any chance we could see a more scale/detailed version of this geep in the future? Sorta like what you did with the Berk? Or not because the Berk was designed with that in mind? Just curious as this model doesn't cut it for a lot of people. It looks too toy-like.

Thanks.

-Jonathan

jonnyspeed posted:

Question for Dave:

Is there any chance we could see a more scale/detailed version of this geep in the future? Sorta like what you did with the Berk? Or not because the Berk was designed with that in mind? Just curious as this model doesn't cut it for a lot of people. It looks too toy-like.

Thanks.

Can't rule it out. It would be a challenging one to fit Legacy in. We have lots of fun things planned already, but this is a good idea. Appreciate the suggestion.

Dave Olson

Director of Engineering

Lionel LLC

Dave Olson posted:
katy409 posted:

Dave Olsen - on the next run of the GP7 - any chance of having two motors and adding some weight ?      

Can't add a second motor but looking into adding weights near the motor.

Which begs the musical question:  Will the new Baldwin switchers have two motors or is it a typo?  Seems odd the smaller Baldwin's could fit two motors but not the GP's.

 

Rusty

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Rusty Traque posted:

Which begs the musical question:  Will the new Baldwin switchers have two motors or is it a typo?  Seems odd the smaller Baldwin's could fit two motors but not the GP's.

 

Not a typo. Much wider shell. Plus the out-pour of requests for two motors in the GP made me design the switcher to have two. Just can't do it in the GP.

Dave Olson

Director of Engineering

Lionel LLC

Dave Olson posted:
Rusty Traque posted:

Which begs the musical question:  Will the new Baldwin switchers have two motors or is it a typo?  Seems odd the smaller Baldwin's could fit two motors but not the GP's.

 

Not a typo. Much wider shell. Plus the out-pour of requests for two motors in the GP made me design the switcher to have two. Just can't do it in the GP.

Thanks, Dave.  Just curious.

Rusty

Got mine back from warranty repair service after 5 weeks.  Paper in the box says it was fixed and tested, however, it makes the same loud gear grinding noises in both directions. In fact it is so bad in reverse that it grinds to a halt. I guess I'll have to pay another $20 to ship it back.  That means I will have paid an extra 20% on top of the purchase price to get a loco that works.

HI All,

 

Finally had a chance to spend some time with my SF Geep.  I'm rather disappointed in the pulling power.  Tried a mix of PW Flyer and S helper cars and it couldn't start a train of 9 cars (Flyerchief Berk and Legacy Y-3 had no trouble).  Would just spin the drive wheels.  Any advice on taking the shell off?  I'd like to add some weight and see what happens.  

Thanks,

Tim

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Rayin


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