Stackable O27 switches

I think the best/closest way to do this is to use switch of the opposite throw to start the yard and then connect all of the other opposite throw switches to the "out" side by connecting the through sections to the out of the first switch and create your ladder tracks from there.  I'm looking for a photo/diagram.

 

This is a photo I pulled up from Google.  Note the latter tracks on the right hand side of the photo.  The first switch is a left turn out.  The succeeding switches are right turnouts with all of the "straights" tied together.  Last run of the ladder is just a curved track to bring all of them back to parallel.

Chuck,

 

That's exactly what I am trying to do.

 

I've got my left-hand turnout from the mainline. The first right-hand turout connects no problem.

 

When I go to connect the second right-hand turnout, it hits the first right-hand turnout, and will not connect without adding 2" or more straight track in between.

I have some old O-27's I picked up cheap at a train show.  I'll play around with them tonight.  

 

All of the other switches I've used (Gragraves, Lionel O-22, FastTrack, Ross) all work the expected way BUT they have a very different foot print and you can sometimes swap the side the switch stand is on.  O-27 is "odd"

This is what I'm trying to do.

Here is where the switches interfere:

 

That issue is due to the footprint of the switch.  If you obtained them cheap and are willing to do some work the base can be cut.  That may not work in your example because the mechanism is located right about where 9 o clock appears in your picture.  Another alternative is to place a spacer track between each switch.  These can be easily constructed by sacrificing a single straight track for the rails.

Yes, that is exactly what's going on.

 

Even just 2" spacer tracks take up too much room. I lose a whole storage track in the yard.

 

Does anyone make a switch that does NOT need a spacer track?

Matt,

 

You're probably going to have to take a hacksaw to them to get what you want.  I did the same thing to my yard, although my switches were Ross O31s.  Note that the RR-Track drawing shows the switches overlapping so as to be represented accurately.

 

 

 

Good luck with this.  It's not that hard.

 

George

Gentlemen,

   The lionel 027 is engineered like a toy, and the controllers can not be swapped from side to side, to get them out of the way.  You will have to deal with loosing space or changing to O guage track and switches, if you want to stay with Lionel conventional tubular. 

PCRR/Dave

 

Many years ago on a previous layout ran into the same type of problem.  Wound up making an angled cut on the plastic switch motor cover to help with some clearance issues.  Also recall getting creative with 027 and 042 switches to reduce track spacing.

 

 

Does anyone know if the old Lionel 1024 would correct this problem. It has a different footprint than the 1022/ 5022, but it still may have the same issue.

 

Alternately, if you eliminated the 3rd switch (from the top of your drawing, including the lead) and then added a left hand switch to the first "rung" of your ladder yard, wouldn't that just cost you about a foot of siding length?

 

Finally, if you don't have the switches already, I would like to recommend looking at the postwar 1022s. These have the same footprint as the 5022, but they cut power to the route that isn't in use. They can be had for dirt cheap, especially if the indicator is missing (repros are available).

 

Hope this helps,

 

J White

 

Thanks for the input guys.

 

I've managed to stuff 4 storage tracks in my yard using a slightly unorthodox layout. This is basically what I've done.

 

For some reason, there's more room on the layout than SCARM thinks there is.

I looked at the switches in my spare box.  Lionel O-27 would require serious modifications to try and get this to work.  

 

There are some older O-27 style switches that have a better foot print but you can't move the switch stands.  O-22 is possibly the best choice or the K-Line replacement (if you can find it).  The switches that would allow closer spacing between tracks have the disadvantage of being much longer and eat up space (length) even faster (aka O-72 or #104).  Sorry.

42" O27 switches allow for packing more sidings into a yard.  They're not cheap if you've got a substantial investment in 1122, 1121, or 5022 switches, but they do help.

I took an approach similar to ed h when faced with packing more tracks in a limited width yard.  I had some 1122E switches that the non-derail function had died on.  I cut and modified the turnout sides to reduce the distance between tracks in the yard.

Still had to use from 2" to 1/2 track spacers to allow for the switch footprints, but I was able to fit 8 yard tracks on a 2 1/2' wide section.  Long range plans were to eventually add a bench to lengthen the yard, and add/modify uncoupler magnets on each track, but ended up moving and haven't rebuilt the layout (yet).

You could also consider transitioning to O31 track and using the 3010/3011 switches, they offer a very compact footprint for dense packing.

 

Thanks GPJ, I may employ that technique in the future when I add more yard tracks.

 

It never occurred to me to cut up a switch like that. Sometimes I think too literally.

In this case, the cutting is already done for you.

 

LOL gunnerjohn, you replied while I was replying to GPJ. No offense to GPJ but I like your idea better because it doesn't involve cutting switches.

 

Coincidentally enough, I had NEVER seen a 3010/3011 switch before yesterday. Then you come along and suggest them.

 

Time to start accumulating.

I went from the early O27 switches with 5 storage tracks to O27 O42 curve switches with 6 storage tracks and had to use spacers in each application.  Now I have Gargraves O42 switches with 7 storage tracks and no spacers.  The Lionel O27 switches are way to difficult to modify.  You can get Gargraves O42 manual switches for $33.00 new/per unit.  In addition they are a huge step above the available O27 Lionel switches - no shorting or derailments.  It is a real quality product and mates very well with my O27 track.

 

 

 

In this picture, on the right side, you can see the spacers used for my unfinished portion of the engine yard.

 

PS - No contempt for O gauge track, but I personally love the O27 profile much better than the O gauge profile.  Weathered and with 3R Plastic ties and using O54 and O42 curves it makes for a nice realistic looking track scene in my small world.

Me too.
Using a low profile k-line o-27  angled lead and  a pair of L and R parallel 0-42 switches, I can get 4 yard tracks in about 23 inches.

No spacers needed but I do have two of the inevitable s curves and two straight runs.
My K-line Switchers do not seem to mind.

I could add two curves and still have parallel tracks with not s's but that opens up the spacing again.

A bit better with the 3010/3011 switches, just over 16" center-to-center for four tracks.

 

 

 

Posted by Gunrunnerjohn:

 

A bit better with the 3010/3011 switches, just over 16" center-to-center for four tracks

 

That's very good John,  I measured my Gargraves O42 switches with O27 track and it worked out to the same 16" center to center over 4 tracks.  So there are two good choices here....

Actually three.
I mis-measured.

23" is my overall yard with including my A/D track.

I have 4 tracks 16" center to center of the outer tracks
There is a slightly wider space in the middle.

Using one 0-27 left, one 0-42 right, one 0-42 left,
No spacers but I use a straight a 0-27 curve of the 0-27 to even up the 0-42s.
Let's me put two overhead signal bridges side by side.

Then I programmed 4 routes for the yard track/ lead and route 5 to get onto the A/D.
On my iPhone so I can not post pic or sketch.  No Flashplayer

Plus I get two long and two slightly shorter tracks that end in same line at far end of layout.

That's probably about as good as it gets.  I'm not sure I'd want them too much closer anyway, you need a little space for the HOG (Hand of God) to swoop down and arrange things.

Would Marx switches work?

I've got a Marx switch, but it's the same footprint as the Lionel 5021/5022 switches I'm working with now.

 

All good ideas fellas. Thanks!