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After a long, long wait at last the CB&Q E5A and E5B-unit arrived! My first O-scale locomotives I actually purchased as new.  Was a real "Wow"-moment unpacking them. The first unit to come out of the box was the B-unit. Track tested it and everything was as it should be, it slowly gained speed with great sound. Next was the A-unit. The wheels just touched the track and the digital system shortened out. Made a reset on the digital system and tried again. The A-unit lit up and the sounds went on for a quick second before the digital system indicated a short cut again. Before the third try I took the engine to a short test and programming track. Put the engine on the track and it started idling. Sounds and light went on, tried some functions and everything seamed to work. When I gave the engine a notch to move forward, it shortened out again. My heart sank. Is it the motor? Something with the decoder? The wheels?  With some mustered courage, I first compared the trucks on the A-unit with the B-unit if anything deviated between them. Everything looked identical. Did electrical measurements and nothing came up.

I decided to take the locomotive apart and hopefully through an elimination process find out what's going on. In the manual it's recommended to start with the tank.

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Four screws later and the tank is loose.

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Some of the steeps where bent, they're just mounted with one small screw and easy to straighten out.

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To loosen the floor from the body there is four screws underneath each truck. On the front truck they where hard to unscrew with the truck in place, so I removed the four screws that holds the truck to the bolster. 

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The body and chassis came apart easily, the only thing to watch out for is the small pieces of the handrails sticking out on the inside of the body. I bent out the body a bit to free it. The only thing left is the light connection.

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The body and chassis are separated. I bench tested the motor with a DC-transformer, no problem there. The sound started up as well.  All the parts and screws are laid out well visible and in order to avoid the "one screw left syndrome" after assembly. On thing that struck me when I put back the engine on the test track, was that the wheel axels move in the trucks a bit between the bearings. When I moved the chassis side vice on the track the analog transformator lit up indicating a short cut, but just in one direction. I then tested the front truck, no short cut. The rear truck on the other hand indicated a short cut. 

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To remove the rear truck was quite easy. I first desoldered the wires. Next step was to use an Allan Key to losen the truck from the universal joint. The last step where the four screws attaching it to the bolster.

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The rear truck from underneath. I removed the pickups and measured for short circuit again. Bingo!!! Something is off with the wheel to the left on the picture.

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Found the culprit. A somewhat dislocated and bent brake bracket. Since the axel can move a bit between the bearings the wheel flange can either run free or touch the brake shoe. It's quite a logical explanation on the erratical short circuits. 

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When a small thing makes big trouble. I straightened out the brass part, and it fit snuggly back. I checked all the other brake assemblies on the trucks but they seamed to be all right.

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I re-soldered the cables and added a new shrink tube around them. Taking a lot of pictures during disassembly helps when memory comes up short. Reassembling the locomotive was quite easy.

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I know Sunset made prolix tests on the E5/E6 before shipping them out, especially for us overseas customers. The packing was really good. I guess the shipment process is another story, with ruff handling of the boxes. Ending up with bent and dislodged delicate details. 

I got some Ideas how to improve the E5s when I reassembled the A-unit, but that will be for another day. Now I'm just happy to operate my all time favourite diesels. 

 

 

 

 

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Thank you for your inputs

In retrospect it was an easy fix indeed. It was another story from the beginning, when you're brand new, recently unpacked locomotive shortens out and you have no knowledge why. I learned a lot during this process, since I never tackled this type of problem before.

Concerning the question on plastic brakes or not. I'm not sure if plastic is better alternative. Yes! No short circuits. But it's more brittle than brass. Brass can be bent, soldered and manipulated.

In my case, if the brake shoe bracket have been in plastic, I probably had to glue the broken part together again.

SANTIAGOP23 posted:

No can do, sorry.  Scott is making the Hiawatha 😊. PM me if you would like to sell at some point. Thanks 

I understand, I was considering them for an earlier set of mine.  While your units are indeed drop-dead gorgeous, their early 40’s livery would be incorrect for the early 50’s livery (All black roofs regardless of lettering choice) that GGD appears to be doing.  The Sunset E7’s have the correct livery for these cars though some might question the historical appropriateness of an AA set of E7’s pulling the OH.  If this scenario did happen, my research strongly suggests that it was the rare exception rather than the norm.  The typical power for the ‘52 OH would be an FP7-F7B-FP7 set in the black, orange and maroon livery though no doubt exceptions occurred.  

Oh I'm more than aware about my E6 being too early for the matron lettered offered Hiawatha. Even a beaver tail would be more appropriate... What are my options? Weaver... Thanks but no thanks.... Walthers kits.... Nah! Too much work for a 50 year old kit.... I rather have a set with contemporary standards that is 7-9 years too late but matches the quality of Key's engines.... PSC made a beaver tail...maybe I'll find one one day... However the sky tops are among my favorite cars ever. 

SANTIAGOP23 posted:

To anyone taking trucks apart... There is a very, very small ring on the outer axel that I suppose plays a part as a spacer between the ball bearings and the wheel...make sure to safely storage them while you work on the engines as they could get easily lost. 

Thank you Santiago!

Forgot to mention this is in my initial post.  I noticed the small washers on the outer axels. They where held in place by the lubricant in my case. As you stated they can easily fall off and get lost. 

Please keep us updated on your endeavour updating your E5's.

E5 rear truck

 

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  • E5 rear truck
SANTIAGOP23 posted:

Oh I'm more than aware about my E6 being too early for the matron lettered offered Hiawatha. Even a beaver tail would be more appropriate... What are my options? Weaver... Thanks but no thanks.... Walthers kits.... Nah! Too much work for a 50 year old kit.... I rather have a set with contemporary standards that is 7-9 years too late but matches the quality of Key's engines.... PSC made a beaver tail...maybe I'll find one one day... However the sky tops are among my favorite cars ever. 

I have the PSC ‘39 set but they’re not for sale.  I’ve ordered the GGD set with extra cars plus the E7’s, not my first choice for diesels but what other reasonable choice do any of us have?  Im guessing Scott will eventually do the FP7’s knowing that dumb-dumbs like me will scarf them up too.  

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