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I’m ready to start tackling the next phase of my project…replacing a couple of dozen Gargraves manual switches with Ross Ready switches that have either DZ-2500 or DZ-1000 machines. I bought 3 switches with the DZ-2500 because my LHS only had those in stock but I think I’ll buy DZ-1000 directly from Ross for the remainder of what I need to save some money. I replaced a couple of switches so far but have noticed that already the amount of wires accumulating at the transformer posts is building so I know I need to do something better.

 

In any case, I’ve been wondering about the best way to distribute power to the switches. The layout is U-shaped, about 25’ x 20’ with plans for a future 60’ x 6’ extension down to the other end of my basement. I’m currently running the layout conventionally, however once I get to the extension I’ll probably change over to Lionel Legacy but that won’t be for at least a year. So right now, I have old fashioned block control for the trains using PW ZW & KW transformers. I plan to convert the KW to accessories only and for the switches was thinking of using the C & D terminal posts to provide 14VAC. Also, I’ve got a giant spool of 4C 26AWG phone wire left over from a commercial security system project I was involved with at work that I was hoping to use for this but also have access to as much CAT5 and CAT6 wire as I need.

 

I’ve done some searching, both on Google and on this forum looking for some ideas or even better,  a tutorial on the most efficient way to power and control the switches and haven’t really found anything that clearly illustrates how to do this. I thought it through and came up with a diagram of what I think I ought to be doing, but I’m not really sure if I’ve got it right. In the diagram, I show three switches. #1 is for a stand-alone spur and #’s 2 & 3 are for cross-over tracks so I want to throw both of those switches with one button. Also, one final thing you should know, wiring is my least favorite thing about this hobby.  I’m kind of a klutz in the manual dexterity department and while I’ve managed to add some lights and electrical outlets to my home without electrocuting myself, my understanding of electricity is very basic. (Some of you who recognize me from a previous problem I posted earlier this week will know that!) I would like to get into doing some scenery, but want to get the trains running as as reliably and trouble free as possible before I tackle that.

 

So, would you smart folks take a look at my diagram and tell me if I’ve got this right or am I totally messed up? All suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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As long as you are using the KW for just the C & D output, and no non-derailing with a layout common for triggering, you should be just fine.  BUT, that's a lot of power just for DZ switch machines.  The power drain is just a few watts with idle switches, maybe an intermittent 30(~50 for the crossover) watts when operating, probably quite a bit less.

 

If the KW is not used for train control, why not use A-U or B-U so you can fine-tune the power delivery?

I do not have the DZ2500 wiring diagram but it looks OK. I also use the 14 volt tap on the KW but only have DZ 1000 machines. I use the rest of the KW to power accessories. I would also install a line fuse from the 14 volt tap. KW breaker is too slow for the wire used.

 

Might be a little neater to daisy chain the wiring instead of using the 2 barrier strips but that depends on the layout shape and preference. Be sure to color code your wiring. Because my siding is automated I throw the machines with relay contacts instead of the push button switches.

 

Also in your drawing you mark the AC as + and - which implies DC current, This is AC current and the DZ1000 machines will not work on DC.

 

Dale H

Last edited by Dale H
Originally Posted by ADCX Rob:

If the KW is not used for train control, why not use A-U or B-U so you can fine-tune the power delivery?

That's a good idea. The ZW2500's I've installed already seem to work just fine on 14VAC. I'm not sure if that will be enough to power two at one time on the crossovers.

 

I was wondering thought about all the terminal blocks. I've got one underneath the layout where the switch is, a 2nd by each controller with the phone wire running between the two, and then the pair at the transformer. Is that the standard practice or would it be better to have another wire going directly from the switch machine to some kind of a buss from the transformer? Do people run busses for switch machines?

Be sure you read up on the posts about setting up the Z2500s, whether they are the current version or not. Important first steps. There were a couple of posts on this in late Feb.

 

Also consider whether you will be using the Z-2001 data driver later in your layout and do consider your need for non-derailing in the future. Your design might change a bit if yo add this.

 

Bye the way, the diagram is GREAT!!. Is there a database of icons you used?

 

Ralph

Originally Posted by Dale H:

Might be a little neater to daisy chain the wiring instead of using the 2 barrier strips

 

Also in your drawing you mark the AC as + and - which implies DC current, This is AC current and the DZ1000 machines will not work on DC.

 

Dale H

Dale - daisy chain what to what? For example, the black wire from the terminal block at controller #2 to the black wire at the terminal block at controller #1 and then directly to the C post of the transformer eliminating the need for the MTH terminal block?

 

And yeah, I get that for AC it's not really + and -. The "-" is the common, connected to the "C" post on the transformer. I just think in + and -, a leftover from my N scale days.

Originally Posted by Ralph:

Be sure you read up on the posts about setting up the Z2500s, whether they are the current version or not. Important first steps. There were a couple of posts on this in late Feb.

 

Also consider whether you will be using the Z-2001 data driver later in your layout and do consider your need for non-derailing in the future. Your design might change a bit if yo add this.

 

Bye the way, the diagram is GREAT!!. Is there a database of icons you used?

 

Ralph

Thanks. The diagram is done in MS Visio and there are no icons. I drew everything myself, copying the DZ stuff from their instruction sheet and the terminal blocks from one I have. It actually doesn't take all that long...just copy and paste and then group individual objects together to form newer larger objects.

 

I actually did read up on what has been posted about the DZ2500, thus my idea to switch over to the DZ-1000 for the rest. The slow motion of the DZ-2500 doesn't get me all that exited but on the other hand, if I do switch over to Legacy, I suppose the DZ-2500 would be better.

I have found that each of my 2500 machines behave differently. The mfg recommends a certain voltage but that may not apply in practice to each machine individually. I have a few that work great at a much lower input than some of the others and one that requires a lightening bolt to set if off. I was thinking about segregating those with different values. I have a lot of sources of dedicated power to use.

 

Matt

I operate all my dz-2500s on 12 volts power with no problems at all. If your machines don't all operate on one voltage I would think it's how they're set up. If they aren't exactly aligned and have absolutely no torque in the mounting screws they'll work fine. I have found attention to detail to be paramount when working with them.

 

Xray you might want to think about all 2500s as the wiring would be a little simpler. A 3 wire buss around the layout, then tie a hot, common and the data wire to each machine and also tie the data wire driver to the same 3 wires and plug the data wire driver to the Legacy base. That gives you command control of all the switches. If you also want to wire the pusbuttons jumper a hot and common off the buss and wire it to all the switches and then one wire from each machine to the buttons and you have button control also. A very quick easy and good looking wire job.

Ron

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