TMCC engine will only run within 3 feet of base

I just bought a new  MOW csx engine with TMCC and it runs fine in conventional mode but in TMCC mode only within 3 ft. of base. I am using DCS with B1 Ground wire is connected and the red light blinks when I give it a command. I have no other TMCC engines that I can test it with. Bad car or bad base or am I missing something?

Thanks Henry

Original Post

Can't solve this without other engine or base to trouble shoot.  Try taking engine to hobby shop or some club where it can be tested.  G

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All checked out ok from another person who has TMCC. So I made up a 54" circle and it worked fine . Now when I put it back on my main layout it stops on the other side of my switches. Any suggestion? I use MTH track and switches

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong on this, but I'll share my experience with TMCC.  I would suggest carefully removing the shell of the locomotive.  TMCC locomotives receive commands from the base using the handrails on the locomotive.  You need to check the wires going to the handrails.  I had a TMCC GS-4 that had the same type of problem.  I found that one of the wires going to one of the handrails had come off.   Unlike TMCC, DCS locomotives receive commands through the track .

Clint Martin aka Mr. Union Pacific

TCA 15-71385

Two types of people in the world...

Those who own a Harley Davidson & those who wish they did!

Union Pacific 18.jpg

Can you post photos of the problem area?  When you say stop, is it still powered up and is the headlight blinking when its stopped.

Is it possble you have a break in the common wire/outside rail of the track for a block beyond the switches?

For TMCC/legacy to work its important the common of the layout to be linked throught the layout.

If there is a break,  try adding a wire from the track where the loco stalls and connecting it to the common from the TMCC base.

 

Mr Union Pacific posted:

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong on this, but I'll share my experience with TMCC.  I would suggest carefully removing the shell of the locomotive.  TMCC locomotives receive commands from the base using the handrails on the locomotive.  

TMCC/Legacy is a two part signal. The only direct communication with the base involves the remote. Base location has no effect on track signal.

 One side of the signal is broadcast through the outside/common rails of the track via the one wire connection to the common from the base.

The other side of the signal is transmitted via the base wall pack ground lug through the ground wiring in the walls of the room the layout is in.

( Its recommended the base wall plug be plugged directly into the outlet. Power strips and surger protectors can degrade the signal)

 The locomotive antenna picks up  the changes in the differences of the two signals when the remote buttons are pushed and responds accordingly.

 

 Unlike TMCC, DCS locomotives receive commands through the track .

 

The other side of the signal is transmitted via the base wall pack ground lug through the ground wiring in the walls of the room the layout is in.

( Its recommended the base wall plug be plugged directly into the outlet. Power strips and surger protectors can degrade the signal)

See, this forum is a wealth of information.  I did not know that.

Clint Martin aka Mr. Union Pacific

TCA 15-71385

Two types of people in the world...

Those who own a Harley Davidson & those who wish they did!

Union Pacific 18.jpg

gunrunnerjohn posted:

All you ever wanted to know about TMCC but were afraid to ask.

TMCC Signal Basics

is there a way to get that info stored on ogr forum?

the web site expires in july 2018

https://www.networksolutions.c...omain=trainfacts.com

I don't know how that might happen, I personally used a website capture application to download the entire Trainfacts website to my computer so I have the information that was presented.  FYI, I used HTTrack Website Copier to capture it.

Well I think I see my Problem is my power supply. (strike 1) I have a radio shack power supply without a ground (Strike 2) and I am using a power strip. The power supply that was with my unit quick working and I can not find one so I went to the shack. 9VAC  But can anyone tell me why it worked on my 54" circle with either the B1 or B1L

When I say stopped it is like I hit 0 for speed but all lights are still on but no commands will work.

Where can I get the correct power supply I have 2 bases  one is B1 12vac and the other one is B1L 9vac

 

Thanks Henry

 

9v?  Command engines are designed to run at 18v.  They will operate at less than 18v but when you get down below 14v strange things can happen.

Any of the forum sponsors, or your local hobby shop, if you have one, can help you with a proper transformer.

I use an app called "Print Edit WE" with it you can capture any web page and remove anything you don't want then save what you want as a PDF.  I don't know all of the browsers that it will work on, I use it on Firefox and think it also works on Chrome.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Until you get the correct power supply, you can run a wire from pin 5 of the serial connector to earth ground (3rd prong of grounded outlet) and get the same effect.

Well I took the base 1 apart and found pin 5 like you said soldered a wire and drilled a hole in the cover and put it back together, then I found a old computer power supply cord and cut it apart took the green wire and hooked the two together hooked up the u to ground side of my track and then power up everything at this point all is well. Powered up my tablet found my speeder then went to 2 on speed then it started to move I had control of the speeder all around the layout over 150 feet round trip GUNRUNNERJOHN  U DA MAN

one more question is the base1 better that the base1L with DCS I do not have any of the cabs

Thanks to all for your response

This forum is the best

 

Henry

 

 

c6usa posted:
gunrunnerjohn posted:

Until you get the correct power supply, you can run a wire from pin 5 of the serial connector to earth ground (3rd prong of grounded outlet) and get the same effect.

Well I took the base 1 apart and found pin 5 like you said soldered a wire and drilled a hole in the cover and put it back together

 

Henry

 

Why would you open up the base and drill a hole when pin 5 is available on the 9 pin connector?  I mean it's your base but seems a lot of work to pull pin 5 from inside vs the serial connection.

Marty Eibeck

 

Below the Signature Line...

"You come to a point in your life when the crap isn't worth it anymore."

 

MartyE posted:
c6usa posted:
gunrunnerjohn posted:

Until you get the correct power supply, you can run a wire from pin 5 of the serial connector to earth ground (3rd prong of grounded outlet) and get the same effect.

Well I took the base 1 apart and found pin 5 like you said soldered a wire and drilled a hole in the cover and put it back together

 

Henry

 

Why would you open up the base and drill a hole when pin 5 is available on the 9 pin connector?  I mean it's your base but seems a lot of work to pull pin 5 from inside vs the serial connection.

I am using the 9 pin to go to my DCS TIU and it was easier to open the case and solder a wire to the backside of the pin than open the cable, over all it took less than 5 minutes to do this.

c6usa posted:

I am using the 9 pin to go to my DCS TIU and it was easier to open the case and solder a wire to the backside of the pin than open the cable, over all it took less than 5 minutes to do this.

Ah I see.

Marty Eibeck

 

Below the Signature Line...

"You come to a point in your life when the crap isn't worth it anymore."

 

What is the engine item number.  You stated it was new.  Was it new old stock or other?

 

 

TCA-79-13758

T.T.O.S.-3057

LCCA-28444

LOTS-RM-4833

MTH Railroaders Club-17209

MTH DCS and Wi-Fi  Beta Tester

MTH Factory  Certified Technician-6 schools.   Repair Technician #990284

LIONEL Factory Trained Certified  Repair Technician #10140

Member Mid America 3 Railers and NJ HiRailers

 

 

 

JohnActon posted:

I use an app called "Print Edit WE" with it you can capture any web page and remove anything you don't want then save what you want as a PDF.  I don't know all of the browsers that it will work on, I use it on Firefox and think it also works on Chrome.

John, I think the intent is to capture the whole site, it has MANY web pages.  Doing it your way would be tedious to the max!  Using HTTrack Website Copier, you can capture the entire website to your local disk and have full access to anything forever.

  • John, if there is a site that I would consider a complete download of, it would be Dale's site, and I probably will do so when I get a new external hard drive. Right on target about, "tedious to the max" I used Print Edit to save most of Carl Tuveson's site and it was a royal PITA. Wish I had known about HTTrack "Thanks".   However I use "Print Edit WE" almost daily. I often save snippets from O Gauge Forum and three other discussion groups that I belong to. From time to time I save entire topic threads. It is much faster than copy and paste. I have not used HTTrack yet but can imagine that there may be a bit of function overlap with Print Edit but I will be using both in the future. Thanks again.   J

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