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@APW Trains posted:

I'm Interested in getting one for my barn layout I'm planning. 6 different levels spread across 2 storys (5000 feet of track). So I'll most definitely need one. How much do they cost though?

It will be the Cheapest and best $$$$ that you will ever spend for your layout. I think they use to cost around $100. but don't quote me on that. I have one and it took ALL of my bugs out of my layout. the best $$$ I ever spend for the Layout.

@APW Trains posted:

I'm Interested in getting one for my barn layout I'm planning. 6 different levels spread across 2 storys (5000 feet of track). So I'll most definitely need one. How much do they cost though?

Sounds like you will likely need a boost!  I suspect you'll also need to apply some of the other approaches to minimizing TMCC signal issues.  I believe that the NJ-HR has around 7,000 feet of track, and I know they don't run TMCC without a buffer.

I sent you an email to your profile address.

Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

This booster has been great for the NJ-HI Railers 30' X 180' multi level layout.  It has minimized blinking engine head lights to the point where virtually all engines run without a problem.  

While you are planning your mega layout, make sure you understand the best way to run and segregate different types of wires before you start wiring up the layout.  Wiring will make a difference on the performance of how well your engines run.

Good luck

Bob D

Sounds like you will likely need a boost!  I suspect you'll also need to apply some of the other approaches to minimizing TMCC signal issues.  I believe that the NJ-HR has around 7,000 feet of track, and I know they don't run TMCC without a buffer.

I sent you an email to your profile address.

Yup.  We have 7000 feet of track and we've been running the buffer since John put it out.  Before that we were running Jim Lefebreve's analog (tubes!) TMCC booster (which I believe was the inspiration for Dale's buffer.)   Even with that the TMCC signal can be iffy in places so we've spend a lot of time running ground wires on telephone poles ABOVE the track.  It's made a huge difference in problematic areas. Especially in tunnels as a lot of our scenery is made from wire mesh (Faraday cage!)  I emphasis  above as in the past there was a thought that a "ground plane" under the track was the way to go.  But no!   The outside rail and the diecast boiler of steamers can block this signal.  Diesel antennas tend to be on the top of the engine and steamer antennas tend to be the boiler handrails so above them by a couple of inches is the way to go.

I attached a hints and tips sheet I put together after several discussions with a Lionel electronics engineer who designed the latest Legacy engine radios.  He reviewed it and gave it his unofficial stamp of approval. We worked with him on beta testing the radios that went into the VL Bigboys and from then on.

We've used his points whenever possible and we now  have pretty reliable TMCC/Legacy operation.

While I was putting this together Bob D. from our club posted about the importance of wiring segregation.  We're talking about the same thing.

Good luck with the build and make sure you post progress pictures!

Attachments

Last edited by Chris Lord

Thanks, I have my ground under the overhead tracks.  Its just one for 3 tracks.   There is a 1/2" plywood and 1/2" foam and 1/4 inch roadbed plus the gargraves ties under the rails which is probably 1.5 to 1.75 inches to the middle track it is under.   So is that far enough not to trigger attenuation?   Is one ground wire sufficient for all 3 tracks?   I will have the signal buffer as soon as it arrives with your modifications.

Thanks,

GREG.

@Stackm746 posted:

Thanks, I have my ground under the overhead tracks.  Its just one for 3 tracks.   There is a 1/2" plywood and 1/2" foam and 1/4 inch roadbed plus the gargraves ties under the rails which is probably 1.5 to 1.75 inches to the middle track it is under.   So is that far enough not to trigger attenuation?   Is one ground wire sufficient for all 3 tracks?   I will have the signal buffer as soon as it arrives with your modifications.

Thanks,

GREG.

As John said that should be good but there's only one way to tel.  Run!

Good luck!

For a CAB2, I've used a hi-gain antenna on the command base, and on one instance, I actually used a 2.4ghz WiFi amplifier on the command base.  That really increased the range, and for really large layouts, it would probably be a significant help.

I can't believe I just lost signal (control) at 25 feet from the command base.  Yes, my body was between the remote and the base... but, it's such a dinky layout.  I did set up the LCS wifi  the other day could that have affected it?   I have a few spare high gain 2.4ghz antenna... I'll give them a go this weekend.

@Jim LeFevre posted:

You are doing better than I am. I can only get 8 feet of range on my CAB 2  and if i put my body between the base and the remote it drops to 4 feet.

Basically a totally usless device. I use my wi throttle on the iphone through JMRI and that works perfectly from anywhere.

You have an issue with either the CAB2 or the command base, that's clearly not normal operation!

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