Train Not Pulling Cars

Try resetting the locomotive's Run/Program switch.

What remote are you using?  Are you running it in conventional transformer mode?

I'm running in conventional, with the CW-80.  It seems like they are sluggish, each engine runs, but not very well, and can't even pull one car.

Take it back to the train shop and let them test run it.  Like you said, it's probably a pretty simple fix and they will know what to do.

Is the transformer hooked to the track correctly?  For both engines not to receive enough power, it seems like an accessory voltage might be hooked to the track, not the full track voltage.  I am guessing on this.

What is the blinking green light?  Why is it blinking?  Check that the transformer is properly wired to the track.

I went to Lionel's website, but could not find a manual on this engine.  If a run/program reset does not help this engine, follow Rod Miller's advice and take it back to the store. Good luck.

Sincerely, John Rowlen

The blinking green light might also be a clue that you may have picked up a defective CW80. One came with my Wabash "Bluebird" set a few years ago. At that time, there were a lot of defective CW80s being discussed on sites like this one. When that was the problem, the only fix was to replace the circuit breaker which would trip with very little track voltage. The big problem with the fix was not finding a better breaker, but getting to the inside of the transformer. For this, one needs a triangular screwdriver from your local electronics store or ordered online. Not sure, but I think the replacement is a 10 amp quick-blow fuse? 

I had this with early Lionel locos & it was down to the track not being magnetic as I've got MTH track

This engine needs power and runs better with a few years of break-in.  It has the same motor/frame as the B6sb, and the tender weighs more than most train sets.  A CW-80 is great for can-motored starter set engines...

Jon

My guess is it's likely that the motor needs some simple maintenance, the Pulmore motor in those needs to be lubricated properly, and I suspect cleaning the commutator and brushes will be a big help as well.

If that's all that's being powered, the CW-80 shouldn't have a big problem if the locomotive is properly maintained.

POWER-ON INDICATOR

The green light will remain on during normal operation. The green light will begin to

flash if you exceed the power limit of the Transformer. The unit will allow you to momentarily

exceed the power limit, but power will be gradually reduced until the problem is corrected.

This safety feature replaces the circuit breaker. The benefit is that the Transformer will not

instantly turn off.

This Transformer is capable of operating trains up to and including dual-motored AC

engines. You may momentarily approach or exceed the five-amp limit of the CW-80 Transformer

when pulling illuminated cars, fighting over grades with heavy loads, or operating accessories.

When you reach five amps, the green light on the Controller will begin to flash. This indicates

that the Transformer is in “fold-back mode.” In fold-back mode, the Transformer is

automatically reducing, or folding back, power. This gradual reduction in power provides

interruption-free power while bringing the amperage back down to a safe level.

Like I said, if simply the locomotive and a couple of cars is overloading it, it needs some maintenance.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Like I said, if simply the locomotive and a couple of cars is overloading it, it needs some maintenance.

I know … just figured I'd provide the OP with the actual language from the manual as to the green light operation.

Hi everyone,

First, thanks for all your help, all info was helpful in troubleshooting.  After taking both to the store and my transformer, it turned out that it was too weak and dead to power both engines.  I was able to trade it for an MTH Z-1000, which should be good for powering Legacy or TMCC in the future (and now I can get MTH equipment without fear of malfunction)!

Still not the best choice imo, but better.  It will keep you busy a while, but  I highly suggest some asking and searching around here before you decide on things, especially pricey ones. I.e. my prediction is you will buy more power in the next two years   ...nobody ever says "I bought too much"

I can make an 80w lionel blink out with four or five good running postwar motors under load from a stop. It takes a slow throttle up. 

   I don't hate them but wouldn't look to buy an 80w except for accessories or a trolley, etc.. it's boarderline for a large loco or medium layout imo... (same for a PW 1033 with some locos)

The new breakers trip electronically on the normally higher peaks vs the more tolerant brass thermal strip of old (split second initial draw is much higher than the constant draw in PW, thermals average it all, electronics measure)

  The General's pulling performance can vary greatly, but it's normally iffy traction. The first year was best imo; magnetraction did it wonders.

Are you oiling things? Cleaning?

At times brush dust in an armature gap can cause a drop in perfomance. If performance drops for me first thing it's oil, and the armature gaps/brushes get a blast of air or brushed out with a stiff nylon artists brush. (e.g.- one difference is 8v to run my clean Marx fast all day, or all 15v, hot, weak, and slow for about 20 min till thermal overload if dirty.)

   They've used a few chassis and motors over the decades. Some were great, but others mostly plastic "starter set" type frame with weak motors to boot. 

Adding weight is a given for all; it will help tons, even on the cheaper ones.  The cab is the easiest spot to hide weights really but things can get top heavy too. Even a small bit like 4-8oz will help though.

Anything over 4 heavy cars or about 10 flyweights is a successful puller. If the tender isn't weighted, it has about a 5 coach limit before that stringlines. It only holds a few drops of smoke fluid, and doesn't smoke hard really.

It's always been one of my favorites though.

Also regarding the 1997 #238E in question, the rods were pretty rough castings, and a drop of oil on each of the pins is a must. 

Jon

The prototype wasn't really successful at pulling more than a handful of cars.  Anything over 8 - 10 was usually too much for that species of engine.