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@mike g. posted:

Morning guy, some wonderful work here! I am glad your all staying busy. I think it keeps some of you out of trouble!

Man you make a little comment about a PRR and people want to break out the torches and pitchforks! LOL I do apologize to any hurt feelings! Bob, I think you just might have to step up the pace and get a few more engines to keep up with Paul.

Well, Mike... good thing you didn’t take a shot at the D&H or NH - for that, we pull out the voodoo dolls and extra long pins. You don’t want to know what we do to anyone maligning the NYC... suffice to say, we know a couple of guyz

@Apples55 posted:

Well, Mike... good thing you didn’t take a shot at the D&H or NH - for that, we pull out the voodoo dolls and extra long pins. You don’t want to know what we do to anyone maligning the NYC... suffice to say, we know a couple of guyz

Well I sure am glad I am in good blessing with you guys! If I was raised back there I would think the same thing!

Seth, I was planning to use the chip LEDs from Evans Designs (Forum Sponsor) I have to measure the bulb size on the lamps. I would slice off the shade, drill, glue in the LED, reattach the shade and then run the wires along the goose neck and into the building. The Nano or Pico look to be about the right size. MTH uses wheat type lamps in their passenger cars. I just think they use too much power off the transformer.

After watching a video on lighting HO passenger cars, I like the idea of using magnetic wire connectors between cars, to minimize the need for diodes and to remove some of the power pickup rollers.

Regarding making signs - there are a number of good videos on Model Railroad Academy. Sometimes you can get an annual subscription for next to nothing. Some videos are free. Not sure if the link will work for you, but this one shows how he makes signs from old magazine advertisements. Neat process.

George Sellios signs

@ScoutingDad posted:

Seth, I was planning to use the chip LEDs from Evans Designs (Forum Sponsor) I have to measure the bulb size on the lamps. I would slice off the shade, drill, glue in the LED, reattach the shade and then run the wires along the goose neck and into the building. The Nano or Pico look to be about the right size. MTH uses wheat type lamps in their passenger cars. I just think they use too much power off the transformer.

After watching a video on lighting HO passenger cars, I like the idea of using magnetic wire connectors between cars, to minimize the need for diodes and to remove some of the power pickup rollers.

Regarding making signs - there are a number of good videos on Model Railroad Academy. Sometimes you can get an annual subscription for next to nothing. Some videos are free. Not sure if the link will work for you, but this one shows how he makes signs from old magazine advertisements. Neat process.

George Sellios signs

Thanks Jeff, now I want to become a member of Model Railroad Academy just to finish watching how he makes his signs! LOL There goes some more money the CEO is going to want to know about! LOL

jrmertz - nice progress on the subway

Seth - I was looking for another video on painting signs on brick. Can't find it, but did run across this one which uses a similar technique but uses CorelDraw. Interesting idea on scanning the building, then applying the ad onto the scan and using transparency to control bleed through.  If you can find old color ads and use them - that would be the way to go, otherwise scan and print makes sense.

paper signs for buildings

Early this morning I finally figured out/possibly finished my yard/industrial freight area. Still need to balance out with mymilitary base. Have about 4x4 feet at the end of my layout to do so

yard with 2 54” sidings and one 25” siding going by the transfer dock

FAD1D825-360A-450F-AC7C-F55F39314940

Whats left of my

military base- to be reorganizedBB298AE4-A53B-47FE-970C-B6B3830627B7

I want a decent transition between the yard/industry - as shown in the next 2 pics55B9B45C-18C7-4760-AFA7-7AC3A3BA43CDFFD6407C-21BE-434A-8BE2-9C1CDCB41B90

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  • FAD1D825-360A-450F-AC7C-F55F39314940
  • BB298AE4-A53B-47FE-970C-B6B3830627B7
  • 55B9B45C-18C7-4760-AFA7-7AC3A3BA43CD
  • FFD6407C-21BE-434A-8BE2-9C1CDCB41B90

My week started out well @mike.g

Monday I visited my local hobby shop in Teays Valley WV. Purchased several Just Plug lighting supplies for my layout hopefully to illuminate the C&O Depot & downtown Olive Hill…Then visited my good friend in Danville to purchase some used O gauge structures to help fill up my voids, including the community bank and local post office once operated so well by Jenny, Mae , an Manford over 60 years ago… they all made a huge impression on me each morning my father took me along to pick up the Mail from box 23. So hopefully being included on my layout will be pay back to each one.

I brought home 9 structures including a flag pole with ole glory flying in the breeze. Each of the 9 will be given a new purpose and an extended life.

I read this morning that June 8th is Best Friends day. I congratulate all the best friends here on the OGR ,

Just doing what each one does best… 😄

@ScoutingDad posted:

jrmertz - nice progress on the subway

Seth - I was looking for another video on painting signs on brick. Can't find it, but did run across this one which uses a similar technique but uses CorelDraw. Interesting idea on scanning the building, then applying the ad onto the scan and using transparency to control bleed through.  If you can find old color ads and use them - that would be the way to go, otherwise scan and print makes sense.

paper signs for buildings

Here is what I do for worn/aged signs on sides of buildings, etc.

I scotch tape a piece of wrapping tissue paper to a piece of typing paper then print the sign I want on the tissue paper side.

Cut out the sign and dab the portion of the building where you want the sign with a little water with a couple drops of Elmer's glue in it. Apply the tissue paper sign to the building by lightly dabbing it into the building's texture with a soft brush. Be careful - the more you dab/wet the more faded/aged the sign becomes.

I have used 2 different methods: Simply glue a paper sign to the finished brickwork. After the glue has thoroughly dried, use a fine grit sandpaper in a sanding block and slowly remove as much of the sign as desired to get the faded effect. Wipe with a damp cloth and clear coat. The other method i have used is to print the sign on a copier using white tissue paper to print on. Then apply with diluted white glue - illustration below.

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  • P1000212

@modeltrainsparts seems like a good idea to use for the sides of the brick buildings. I feel like I can use this process.

Although my interest is to change the store signs, as I have on the Woodlands Scenic structures.  Say for example from the Market to Kings Dime Store.  Or the H H Feeds to Sparks Feeds.  

All I’m capable of is printing a Word Document on sheets of printing  paper…

Seth, Understand your limits - mine are similar. I made the "Stark's" sign using word, printed on plain paper; then glued an S&H stamp on that paper, copied that page onto plain paper, and then copied that page onto tissue wrapping paper. Good luck.

I have been pleased with the method of printing a sign from pinterest or buying one I like. Seal the sign to protect the color. I sand the back of the paper with 1500 wet or dry sandpaper until it gets thin. Mix white glue and water till it looks like skim milk, soak it till it softens (Careful not too long.) put it in place and gently work the air out as you would with a decal.

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  • IMG_2873: This is a decal
  • IMG_2946: Top is off Internet bottom bought both paper
  • IMG_2954: Bought this paper sign

Morning guys I know it sounds crazy, but I have a new layout plan that I am thinking about. It's really for 2 reasons, 1) so I can access the minisplit heat/AC unit and 2) cause it looks alot more fun. Below are 2 drawings. The first is what I have now and the 2nd is what I am thinking about. Please give me your honest thoughts! All ideas welcome.

Mikes layoutPlanned new layout

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  • Mikes layout
  • Planned new layout
@mike g. posted:

Morning guys I know it sounds crazy, but I have a new layout plan that I am thinking about. It's really for 2 reasons, 1) so I can access the minisplit heat/AC unit and 2) cause it looks alot more fun. Below are 2 drawings. The first is what I have now and the 2nd is what I am thinking about. Please give me your honest thoughts! All ideas welcome.

Mikes layoutPlanned new layout

Mike, the second plan looks more interesting for sure.  What is your plan for accessing the loop tracks in the corners?  Pop up access holes?  Crawl on top?  Get a topside creeper?  Build them so they are hinged and swing out?

Three years ago my knee and back weren’t giving me any trouble.  Now look at me.  Changes in a layout can be a good thing.  Whatever changes you make, make sure you build for accessibility when your body talks back to you.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Mike, the second plan looks more interesting for sure.  What is your plan for accessing the loop tracks in the corners?  Pop up access holes?  Crawl on top?  Get a topside creeper?  Build them so they are hinged and swing out?

Three years ago my knee and back weren’t giving me any trouble.  Now look at me.  Changes in a layout can be a good thing.  Whatever changes you make, make sure you build for accessibility when your body talks back to you.

Hi Mark, I am thinking pop ups for both, the one in the right corner will be just elevated track with the shop area and oil tanks there. The one in the lower left will be open grid on the lower level and the town will go on the upper level with a pop up in the center.

@mike g. posted:

Hi Mark, I am thinking pop ups for both, the one in the right corner will be just elevated track with the shop area and oil tanks there. The one in the lower left will be open grid on the lower level and the town will go on the upper level with a pop up in the center.

Mike, sounds like a plan!  How high is the bottom of your benchwork?  If too low, it could be a hard hat zone.  😄

Mike - the second plan looks better - but - it looks like you cannot really run two trains at the same time because they will be sharing track at the same time - only an issue if you want to let them run by themselves. You lost that in rev2.  The connection between the green and yellow track is a one way in - there is a lot of backing up to get out of the yellow into the green. I do not get reason for the circle in the upper right.

Like everything in this hobby, layouts are driven by what the owner wants not what someone else likes or wants.  For me, if I had the room, I would try to stick with a walk in plan and try to avoid lift outs. Looks to me like you have the space. And I would want to run several trains at the same time - set and forget.

Thanks for the input, its still a work in progress, the upper level will run only on the top level if I leave the switch the curved direction. I am still trying to figure out the lower level so it can do the same thing.

The big thing is I have to make room to service the heat/ac, and make it so I can quit climbing up on the layout.

Mike, The latest plan works for me.  My grades are 4% and it gave me a great opportunity to double head and add a pusher in front of the caboose.  You can do a lashup of diesels and be fine.  The turnback loops let you go up or down or stay on the top or bottom level.  If the tracks are a bit close to the wall for clearance there is room to adjust away from the walls a bit.  Looks good to me.

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