What did you do on your layout today?

p51 posted:

I’m working on changing the “Stoney Creek Road” on the layout. It never looked right to me, and I recently read where someone made a decent looking paved/gravel road with 100-grit sandpaper. I bought some a couple of nights ago and gave it a try. I did all the work with a couple of uncut sheets of it on the table, working on it with paints and such. 

 

Well, the Sandpaper idea failed miserably. I put the paper down, weighted it, and something about the backing didn't want to stick to anything. Then, it looked exactly like what it was, a flat piece of something with relief painted on it. So, I scraped everything clean again and put a very thin layer of fine ballast down in it's placs. It looks a lot like the tar and gravel roads that were there anyway. I will eventually put some weathering, for exhaust stains and oil spills, and some cracks in the surface after the glue dries, sometime tomorrow or later. In other terms, the normal debris on a country road. But still, it looks a lot better than it did earlier today.
The white car is where it is in the shot to keep the photographer figure upright while the glue dries. I had to remove him during this project.

This is actually the look I was looking for, anyway. The actual road this represents was not paved at the time the layout takes place, and instead was a gravel road held together with oil and tar.

p51 posted:

p51 posted:

I’m working on changing the “Stoney Creek Road” on the layout. It never looked right to me, and I recently read where someone made a decent looking paved/gravel road with 100-grit sandpaper. I bought some a couple of nights ago and gave it a try. I did all the work with a couple of uncut sheets of it on the table, working on it with paints and such. 

 

Well, the Sandpaper idea failed miserably. I put the paper down, weighted it, and something about the backing didn't want to stick to anything. Then, it looked exactly like what it was, a flat piece of something with relief painted on it. So, I scraped everything clean again and put a very thin layer of fine ballast down in it's placs. It looks a lot like the tar and gravel roads that were there anyway. I will eventually put some weathering, for exhaust stains and oil spills, and some cracks in the surface after the glue dries, sometime tomorrow or later. In other terms, the normal debris on a country road. But still, it looks a lot better than it did earlier today.
The white car is where it is in the shot to keep the photographer figure upright while the glue dries. I had to remove him during this project.

This is actually the look I was looking for, anyway. The actual road this represents was not paved at the time the layout takes place, and instead was a gravel road held together with oil and tar.

I like it Lee. I made a dirt road, (made of real dirt) also in my town of Coalwood. I may have to borrow your idea of a gravel road for my town of Walnut Creek.

Water cured on the new layout. Picked up this reading gondola when grabbing something else I ordered last night too.  

darlander posted:

RSJB18 posted:

OK So I hope this is a REALLY BAD APRIL FOOLS JOKE

I also made my own dwarf signals.  Check out page 206, 4/23/16, page 221, 6/30/16 & page 231, 8/16/16 for details.

You should be able cover the back with sheet styrene.  I would suggest using cat5 wire and conceal everything in the body of the signal.  I installed my signals to indicate switch allinment.  Good luck with the snow and your signals.   Dave

 

 

Just looked at your old posts Dave. Exactly what I'm going for. I think I will stay with the boards though. I thought the shrink tubing would get too bulky.  The signal bodies are square so the styrene will fit right to the edge. The tubing is a good idea to act as a stand and to hide the wiring. I'm using some old 22/4 phone wire. The colors are right and its stranded so it takes the solder better. Thanks for the reference material.

Bob

We’ve made a fair bit of progress on the layout since the last update:

• Removed all track, bridges, and accessories and painted homasote and plywood to seal and prep for scenery
• Painted elevated bridge sections in flat black
• Cut Gargraves track sections to connect track to switches
• Installed Ross O-54 switches and wired up the DZ2500 Switch Motors for non-derailing operation
• Wired up first two drops for the elevated section

We painted the homasote and plywood to seal out moisture and give it a more dirt and stone look. Given that homasote is a compressed paper product, we want to ensure as we’re adding scenery and gluing it down with white glue and water, the homasote doesn’t swell.

The elevated section is coming along nicely, we’ve been able to run a test train around to test connectivity and the non-derailing features of the switches.  We still have the following to do for the elevated section:

1. Extend insulated rail section for non-derailing operation to allow for faster trains on the upper loop
2. Wire two more power drops for the elevated section
3. Cut, paint, and glue track support girders under each switch curved section
4. Glue down bridge supports in their final locations
5. Figure out how we want to wire up the DZ2500 switch motors for remote throwing

One “lesson learned” from the Ross switches, or rather the Z-stuff DZ2500 switch motor, is that unlike the DZ1000 motors, the DZ2500s throw at a prototypical speed (read: slow).  While I’m sure it looks great for switches closer to the observer, it’s not really needed for our elevated section since the switches are at the back of the layout and we’re really aiming for fast performance rather than prototypical operation.  What I may do is wire up the non-derailing wires (green and yellow) rather than the Thru and Out wires (blue and white) so the motors will always throw at their fastest speed.

Once the elevated section is complete, we’ll have all tracks operational and be able to run four trains simultaneously with no operator intervention (and five trains if we keep an eye on it).

Yes, we realize there’s some odd consists running on the layout (a 2-10-4 Texas with Intermodal cars and an O-27 Lionel 2037 with a scale Superliner), but that’s just to test overhead and curve clearances :-)

Brian, once again some really nice BN/BNSF pictures ! Love them!

Matt, things are really looking nice! The elevated section is going to be fun to watch, and with being able to run 4 trains is great! Keep up the good work!

                                       pretty busy at the station today...

Matt,  The layout is looking great!  I haven't used the Z-Stuff switch motors, but have some DZ1000 switch motors to install on my new layout.  I think I'll be happy with the faster action.

Soldered wires,  drilled holes, feed wires , hooked up to terminal strips. 

New layout with rail yard, turn table and operating accessories, 

Accessories 's 21 thru 24, couple more to  go.

Jushavnfun posted:

Soldered wires,  drilled holes, feed wires , hooked up to terminal strips. 

New layout with rail yard, turn table and operating accessories, 

Accessories 's 21 thru 24, couple more to  go.

Sounds like a good days work! Better take a break and relax! It will be there tomorrow!

Finished the bench work on my new layout and couldn't stand it so I  flattened out about 9-10  heavy duty shipping boxes I had from moving. Covered the bench work and put down a loop of Standard gauge track then O gauge. Ran trains !!   Not pretty but it works until I get my Homasote. My first Lionel engine, a Standard gauge 318 had the honor of running the first train and my 2018, first  Lionel engine I ever bought ran the first O gauge.  Second train was my M1000 to test the curves, it hadn't run in almost a year. All went well, a good day. Will take some photos  tomorrow.

Jim, You are really making progress on that new layout!!  Congratulations!!

Chaos theory? String theory?  I'll ask young Sheldon.

Ok now I wish I never watched that! Now my head hurts! LOL

Whatever it takes to get the job done!

Storage yard tracks done  and here’s a cool pic I took.

Excellent, Kon!!

mattrain posted:

We’ve made a fair bit of progress on the layout since the last update:

• Removed all track, bridges, and accessories and painted homasote and plywood to seal and prep for scenery
• Painted elevated bridge sections in flat black
• Cut Gargraves track sections to connect track to switches
• Installed Ross O-54 switches and wired up the DZ2500 Switch Motors for non-derailing operation
• Wired up first two drops for the elevated section

We painted the homasote and plywood to seal out moisture and give it a more dirt and stone look. Given that homasote is a compressed paper product, we want to ensure as we’re adding scenery and gluing it down with white glue and water, the homasote doesn’t swell.

The elevated section is coming along nicely, we’ve been able to run a test train around to test connectivity and the non-derailing features of the switches.  We still have the following to do for the elevated section:

1. Extend insulated rail section for non-derailing operation to allow for faster trains on the upper loop
2. Wire two more power drops for the elevated section
3. Cut, paint, and glue track support girders under each switch curved section
4. Glue down bridge supports in their final locations
5. Figure out how we want to wire up the DZ2500 switch motors for remote throwing

 

One “lesson learned” from the Ross switches, or rather the Z-stuff DZ2500 switch motor, is that unlike the DZ1000 motors, the DZ2500s throw at a prototypical speed (read: slow).  While I’m sure it looks great for switches closer to the observer, it’s not really needed for our elevated section since the switches are at the back of the layout and we’re really aiming for fast performance rather than prototypical operation.  What I may do is wire up the non-derailing wires (green and yellow) rather than the Thru and Out wires (blue and white) so the motors will always throw at their fastest speed.

Once the elevated section is complete, we’ll have all tracks operational and be able to run four trains simultaneously with no operator intervention (and five trains if we keep an eye on it).

Yes, we realize there’s some odd consists running on the layout (a 2-10-4 Texas with Intermodal cars and an O-27 Lionel 2037 with a scale Superliner), but that’s just to test overhead and curve clearances :-)

I have both switches on my layout and while the 2500's do throw slower, they have a quick throw when wired for non-derailing.  Honestly, I can't tell a difference between the non-derailing speed of either of the two switches.  

Everything is looking real good.  Good Job!

That’s good information, Thaddeus; since I am new to Z-Stuff!

I disassembled the Joustra Silver Arrow I recently got after it toasted itself. 

I am not sure what this motor is, any one have any ideas? The train came

from France so it could be anything. 

I used to rewind and balance Mabuchi can motors back in my slot car

days in the 60's, but that has been a looooonng time. 

Kon,your yard looks nice! Keep up the good work and pictures!

Ok, take right hand, firmly slap forehead. Its a DC motor, they don't run real well

on AC. When the seller said it was electrified for three rail I didn't even think DC. 

Lots of you guys are familiar with how DC motors can run on AC, what do I need to have to make

it run on AC, or should I just hook up a DC powerpack when I run it. 

beardog posted:

Ok, take right hand, firmly slap forehead. Its a DC motor, they don't run real well

on AC. When the seller said it was electrified for three rail I didn't even think DC. 

Lots of you guys are familiar with how DC motors can run on AC, what do I need to have to make

it run on AC, or should I just hook up a DC powerpack when I run it. 

https://www.radioshack.com/pro...0v-bridge-rectifiers

The two contacts in the middle go to the AC.  Wire one to the pickups and one to the ground.   The + contact goes to the red wire on the motor; the - contact goes to the blue wire on the motor.   Your DC motor will now run fine on AC power. 

Have fun, and good luck! 

Mitch 

A friend of mine is very into Star Wars, and he just did up a rendition of Fortescue as a Clone Trooper... 

Note the armor trim; perfect match for the blue of 3376/3386 gi-raffe cars... 

Mitch 

Over the last two days, I decided to rip up the road surface on one of to grade crossings on the layout. The road surface was a work in progress that I never liked. The real road was gravel and tar, and the black surface I had just didn't look right. So, I ripped it all up, laid in fine ballast for a new surface, let that glue dry overnight and I just finished placing paint and powder highlights to look like a well-travelled but still relatively decent road surface. I even dry-brushed signs of someone having to stop quickly for a train at the crossing the past.
These shots show the progression at the same point, in order:

And finally, a side view showing the painted detail and weathering:

Thanks Mitch, I went to the RS link, says they are sold out online. So

I just searched online. Got 10 of them for $3 on ebay so if you need 

any let me know. 

p51 posted:

Over the last two days, I decided to rip up the road surface on one of to grade crossings on the layout. The road surface was a work in progress that I never liked. The real road was gravel and tar, and the black surface I had just didn't look right. So, I ripped it all up, laid in fine ballast for a new surface, let that glue dry overnight and I just finished placing paint and powder highlights to look like a well-travelled but still relatively decent road surface. I even dry-brushed signs of someone having to stop quickly for a train at the crossing the past.
These shots show the progression at the same point, in order:

And finally, a side view showing the painted detail and weathering:

Lee, how did you do the oil spills?

beardog posted:

Thanks Mitch, I went to the RS link, says they are sold out online. So

I just searched online. Got 10 of them for $3 on ebay so if you need 

any let me know. 

Thankee!  I've got a few yet, but I'll keep your kind offer in mind... 

Mitch 

Lee- the new road looks great. We had tar/ gravel roads in my neighborhood growing up.

You nailed it IMHO.

Bob

Little train time this week except for surfing the forum. Been working on a project for the CEO- finishing the closet in the den I renovated last year. Bottom is done just gotta install the hinges and paint. Working on the top door now.

Ordered the styrene pieces I need for my signals.

Lee, I think the road turned out looking great! Nice weathering !

Bob, the closet is looking sharp! The CEO should be proud of you!

Brian, I have been kind of keeping track, I think you need a few more engines! LOL

gandydancer1950 posted:

p51 posted:

 

Lee, how did you do the oil spills?

Tell you what, I'll go over the whole thing, just in case anyone else was wondering about other details:

I put down as fine ballast as I could get, then sprinkled in a few cinders and placed larger ballast on the sides of the roads (for the little rocks and debris you see on the sides of roads, knocked there by traffic), and some ground foam.

As for the oil stains, they were painted in. I also cut to parallel lines on a sheet of paper and used that as a stencil to dry brush a skid mark in place.

Note the lighter color lines where the majority of the tire contacts would be. That's a feature of every gravel road I've ever seen, so I dry-brushed white into two parallel lines in that spot. You can't really see it until you back up.

I then dry-brushed some general stains and grime (using mostly Floquil Grimy Black) in random spots on the surface. I also did some drips and marks coming in/out of each side road.

Oddly, the tire marks on the road from the above photo don't seem to match the marks on the crossing planks, but I think it's the angle of this shot. When you look down the road from a O scale driver's perspective, they do line up.

Lee- the new road looks great. We had tar/ gravel roads in my neighborhood growing up.

You nailed it IMHO.

Thanks much, Bob!

Lee, I think the road turned out looking great! Nice weathering !

Thank you very much, Mike! If you're heading to the model train show in Chehalis this weekend, I'll have a sales table there tomorrow. Be sure to say hi if you see me (I'll probably be wearing my NASA jacket)

We are building a winery/vineyard on the layout. It's far from being complete, however when finished there will be a wine tower to dispense real wine. It's my wife's idea and her winery.

p51 posted:

gandydancer1950 posted:

p51 posted:

 

Lee, how did you do the oil spills?

Tell you what, I'll go over the whole thing, just in case anyone else was wondering about other details:

I put down as fine ballast as I could get, then sprinkled in a few cinders and placed larger ballast on the sides of the roads (for the little rocks and debris you see on the sides of roads, knocked there by traffic), and some ground foam.

As for the oil stains, they were painted in. I also cut to parallel lines on a sheet of paper and used that as a stencil to dry brush a skid mark in place.

Note the lighter color lines where the majority of the tire contacts would be. That's a feature of every gravel road I've ever seen, so I dry-brushed white into two parallel lines in that spot. You can't really see it until you back up.

I then dry-brushed some general stains and grime (using mostly Floquil Grimy Black) in random spots on the surface. I also did some drips and marks coming in/out of each side road.

Oddly, the tire marks on the road from the above photo don't seem to match the marks on the crossing planks, but I think it's the angle of this shot. When you look down the road from a O scale driver's perspective, they do line up.

 

Lee- the new road looks great. We had tar/ gravel roads in my neighborhood growing up.

You nailed it IMHO.

Thanks much, Bob!

Lee, I think the road turned out looking great! Nice weathering !

Thank you very much, Mike! If you're heading to the model train show in Chehalis this weekend, I'll have a sales table there tomorrow. Be sure to say hi if you see me (I'll probably be wearing my NASA jacket)

Thanks!

mike g. posted:

Lee, I think the road turned out looking great! Nice weathering !

Bob, the closet is looking sharp! The CEO should be proud of you!

Brian, I have been kind of keeping track, I think you need a few more engines! LOL

Lee, Bob, Brian, What can I say except ditto to what Mike said?  

Thanks Guys. Got the top door assembled. Waiting for the glue to dry. How many clamps does it take to glue a door? 

That many....

Bob, you are a man of many talents!

Now I know the true meaning of "slow boat from china". The bridge rectifiers I ordered yesterday

shipped yesterday. ETA 4/29-5/29