0-22 Switch Problems

Powering with leads to the center and outer rails.

You probably have a broken solder joint internally. Might as well open them up and service them up real nice.

 Here is a picture showing the screws you will need to remove. There are 3 different sets:

1 set (red) Retains the motor cover

1 set (green) Attaches the motor to the base

1 set (blue) Retains the backing plate to the base

 This is the base with the plate and motor removed. Check all the solder joints and ensure all the rails are tight.

This is the motor. I've identified the surfaces I service with lubrication. Blue for CRC 2-26 and red for Labelle 107. Additionally, check all solder joints.

 Assembly is reverse of disassemble. Just be cognoscente of the frog pin and motor alignment. (The pin is in the middle of the 4 blue circles in the last picture).

 Here is a link to Olen's Trains which supplies parts you may find you need and shows an exploded diagram:

 http://www.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=673

 Hope that helps!

@Dick S posted:

I am repairing a box of 0-22 switches.  I have 2 problems.  One powers up OK but when the controller is hit, in either direction, the switch vibrates but does not open or close all the way.   The second one only works in one direction.  Any help would be appreciated to solve the problems.

Not sure I am allowed to post a direct link so.....

search google for

“o22 servoguy”

He has a very detailed step by step process to fix the o22.  I have used it to refurbish about 20 switches very successfully.  It is all in the “google machine” but servoguy wrote it up nicely.

Thank you.  I have repaired 100 of them but these 2 have me stumped.

A key point that I haven't yet seen in this conversation.  To me the chatter indicates a short between the insulated rail and the other rails.   It's easy to find with the switch isolated and no power.  Just use a continuity tester around the gap in the rail.  If it lights, check the soldered connection under the joint shown in the middle of the lower rail in the middle photo.  The clips holding both parts of the rail are only 1/16" apart.  The solder may have loosened with age causing contact across the rail gap.  

I've found that to be a problem several times on the curved rail.  

Here's what I would do about the switch controller that works only one way.  First see if the other controller throws the switch properly.  Then you'll know whether the problem is controller or switch.

You can also swap the two outside connections to the switch.  If that makes the switch throw in the opposite direction from before when you pull the lever in the same direction, then one side of the controller is defective. 

IF you've decided the problem is in the switch, then first test the coils on the switch motor.  Use a test lead to connect one side of your test voltage source  to the fixed voltage plug.  Then with another test lead connected to the other side of the source, touch the connection to each coil.  If both of them throw the switch, then the problem is somewhere in the switch wiring.  In that case, the switch goes into my batch of switches to sell on eBay in a batch as for parts or repair.

But before doing any of that electrical testing, clean all contacts and be sure that all parts move easily.

This thread is an excellent tutorial for fixing Lionel Postwar 022 switches, which I think are outstanding products.

Thank you to all who have contributed to this thread. Arnold

@bmoran4 posted:

You probably have a broken solder joint internally. Might as well open them up and service them up real nice.

 Here is a picture showing the screws you will need to remove. There are 3 different sets:

1 set (red) Retains the motor cover

1 set (green) Attaches the motor to the base

1 set (blue) Retains the backing plate to the base

 This is the base with the plate and motor removed. Check all the solder joints and ensure all the rails are tight.

This is the motor. I've identified the surfaces I service with lubrication. Blue for CRC 2-26 and red for Labelle 107. Additionally, check all solder joints.

 Assembly is reverse of disassemble. Just be cognoscente of the frog pin and motor alignment. (The pin is in the middle of the 4 blue circles in the last picture).

 Here is a link to Olen's Trains which supplies parts you may find you need and shows an exploded diagram:

 http://www.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=673

 Hope that helps!

My bet this is the problem = been there - done that one.  Easy - peasy fix.

Had this same thing happen to me. Spent hours going through the switch. Finally gave up. Was about to buy another on eBay when I thought what about the controller! Sure enough one of the wires was shorted inside it.........

Thank you all for your help!!!!

Thank you mlaughlinnnyc.  You hit the nail on the head.  The switch that threw only one way had a broken wire under one post.  The one that chattered had a broken solder joint under the track.  All is fixed now.   Thanks you and everyone else who responded to my request for help.

IMO this topic is a very helpful resource for the Lionel Postwar lovers out there, which includes me.