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PRRronbh posted:
p51 posted:

I found these two books and some scale flowers, only paid 26 bucks for the whole lot of it.1124171910-1

Lee, not sure how the value of the original volume "Southern Railway in Color" is holding now.  But several years ago when still participating I found one (was very much looking for) where the guy was asking and holding at $95.00.  I was considering it (wanted it) but was far from pristine condition, so passed.  Late found a "new" one online for $45.00.  Ended up happy.

Ron,

These books are from the 90s, but I was sort of surprised (and yet, not, at the same time) to hear this.

Not bad for $8.00 each, huh? The volume 1 has a torn dust jacket and a ding in the cover, but the content is fine.

I'm sure the value here is directly  related to how far they were from any former SRR territory.

Last edited by p51
Adriatic posted:

Bored, my railroads Chairman of the Bored went to a local junk mall, indoor bazaar, flea market, trailer-trashcan, etc...  Among the crowd there was a man in blue standing around waiting for work. With his price sign humbly displayed at his clean step. "Old Scool" and odd; he will not fit in on most lines around here and I'm easy. But that's cheap labor, and he did seem clean and well rounded. So I gave him a shot, paid the 2 bit Price, and we will put him to work in the Industrial Park South toy layout.

IMG_20171125_194248 Meet our newest employe! Fisher P. Rolensquiki

 

   I've been looking for a small figure for the FRED flying saucer at the end of my Looney Tune's Marvin the Martian train for a few years. Always too big before; but I finally I hit a homerun...or umm.. a three pointer. I always hoped it would be Tweety. I think the ball will become a helmet.

Now to emit an evil laugh, slink away and go chop him up.. Mwa hahahaha 

IMG_20171125_194938

I think I'll need a light in the FRED dome now too.

IMG_4649_zps5655de36 11496905562778

Yes, the FRED dome definitely will need a light...a blinking light...whirling blinking lights would even be better!!

That red light isn't just for show; it works already.

(a tripod, two plastic AF wheels only at the rear. Up front the coupler keeps it straight while the 'thumbtack" acts as the center rail pickup (and third tripod leg). The outside rail pickup is a "track wiper"; (a length of solid wire that rubs the inside edge of the outer rails.)

  In the dark, the FRED is the hardest to see well (except the red light)

So I will need an overhead lamp to insure Tweety is seen as well as the saucer.

Picked up a 1946 version Lionel 2020 in decent condition for a fairly good price. The engine came through the store in a collection and was to be sold as untested. I tested it and sniped it as fast as I could. Ran and cycled like a champ with the tender having slight issues. Tender got oiled and cleaned and now it's one of my loudest. Definitely one of the cooler things that's run under the Christmas tree over the years. Been adding a few Postwar pieces each year and now I'm up to a 671 (1947), 682, 685, and that 2020 along with various cars including a 6464-225 and a 6464-900.

This past weekend I went to a Train show in Edison NJ.

This is what I purchased:

The Lionel 116 was $7.00.
The 59 lamppost with another base was $2.00 (found in a junk box on the floor).
Prewar Motor was $5.00 (wheels need replacement and think one winding on the armature is bad, Maybe an easy fix, if not it will be parts).
Brand new Prewar pick-up $5.00

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RonH posted:

This past weekend I went to a Train show in Edison NJ.

This is what I purchased:

The Lionel 116 was $7.00.
The 59 lamppost with another base was $2.00 (found in a junk box on the floor).
Prewar Motor was $5.00 (wheels need replacement and think one winding on the armature is bad, Maybe an easy fix, if not it will be parts).
Brand new Prewar pick-up $5.00

That's the stuff I live for, great finds!

RonH posted:

This past weekend I went to a Train show in Edison NJ.

This is what I purchased:

The Lionel 116 was $7.00.
The 59 lamppost with another base was $2.00 (found in a junk box on the floor).
Prewar Motor was $5.00 (wheels need replacement and think one winding on the armature is bad, Maybe an easy fix, if not it will be parts).
Brand new Prewar pick-up $5.00

Nice little haul....I do junk boxes under the tables also...never know what you might find. One man's junk is another man's treasure!

Repairs. My Century Club S2 Turbine got bound up a few years back and I had put it in storage for a bit. Well, I had sort of forgot to get it done and recently I accidentally popped my Western Maryland boxcar(in the box) off of where it was sitting against the wall(because I tripped). After picking it up, I knew something was wrong. The one diecast truck came apart. So, I took that and the S2 to my local train store to get fixed. The truck was easy, no big deal. The S2 however was bound up because of "over lubing or over greasing". I hadn't really thought that would be why because my first thought was mechanical issues of some sort.

Dave NYC Hudson PRR K4 posted:

....... The S2 however was bound up because of "over lubing or over greasing". I hadn't really thought that would be why because my first thought was mechanical issues of some sort.

Is that even possible? Hardened; I understand. Over lubed; ?¿?¿?, it's making my head hurt trying to figure that one.

Unless lube crept all the way to the motor and fouled it? 

 

RSJB18 posted:

Received my BL-2 last night. gave it a quick test run this morning before work.

http://marketplace-images.trainzauctions.com/19cb46e6846bed00cfed28a2635cfcd48123d17f-20171024-145721-C1-Trainz-4072516-STILL-02.jpg

I could never do that.    

I'd end up being late  getting "sick"

Mark Boyce posted:
RSJB18 posted:
Mark Boyce posted:

Bob, The Williams BL-2 looks great!  I'm glad you like it!  I have the MTH version and like it too!

Thanks Mark- its a lot bigger than I thought. I little tight on 027 curves but it works.

Bob

Yes, it is scale and made for 031 curves, but I would think mine could do 027 also.

I had a borrowed one for a bit. It ran 0-27 no problem.

  I don't think some companies want to admit 0-27 is out there because they don't make it ....?

 

 I guess if the S2 was packed solid and capped under pressure with no air space, the loco might hydro lock.

My head hurts.

Yeah, it was baffling to say the least. I always would lube per the instruction when taking something that has been stored. I remember checking the grease to see how good/bad that was in there(which looked okay at the time). Odd thing was it was running fine Christmas night(so many Christmas's ago), and it just stopped running. That is why I thought it was mechanical. I something was running and stopped, you'd figure it would be gearing or something, not crudded up grease that just decided to stick like glue.

The thing that made my local train guy and his daughter's eyes bug out was managing to break the diecast truck on the Western Maryland boxcar while still in the box. I said about it that it must have hit just right to break the one side of the truck off. Well, I guess odd things pop up for everyone, this one was mine.

Dave NYC Hudson PRR K4 posted:

Yeah, it was baffling to say the least. I always would lube per the instruction when taking something that has been stored. I remember checking the grease to see how good/bad that was in there(which looked okay at the time). Odd thing was it was running fine Christmas night(so many Christmas's ago), and it just stopped running. That is why I thought it was mechanical. I something was running and stopped, you'd figure it would be gearing or something, not crudded up grease that just decided to stick like glue.

The thing that made my local train guy and his daughter's eyes bug out was managing to break the diecast truck on the Western Maryland boxcar while still in the box. I said about it that it must have hit just right to break the one side of the truck off. Well, I guess odd things pop up for everyone, this one was mine.

Sounds like you need a new brand of grease. What was it? I want to avoid it. It usually takes a decade or two for even cheap greases to get "crunchy" or stiff. I have a ½ gal. can from the early 60s that looks brand new (Wolfs head). I save it for bicycle hubs etc. just due to age.

Labelle has specific weights for trains, but I usually use 20w or 30w straight weight motor oil, Lubriplate Aero, or steal Lucas soft & tacky from my garage's grease gun.

  In high number metal production, there will be a few flaws and shocks are good at finding them. No cheap way to ensure it never leaves the plant. Luck of the draw is all.

Adriatic posted:
Dave NYC Hudson PRR K4 posted:

 

Sounds like you need a new brand of grease. What was it? I want to avoid it. It usually takes a decade or two for even cheap greases to get "crunchy" or stiff. I have a ½ gal. can from the early 60s that looks brand new (Wolfs head). I save it for bicycle hubs etc. just due to age.

Labelle has specific weights for trains, but I usually use 20w or 30w straight weight motor oil, Lubriplate Aero, or steal Lucas soft & tacky from my garage's grease gun.

  In high number metal production, there will be a few flaws and shocks are good at finding them. No cheap way to ensure it never leaves the plant. Luck of the draw is all.

Standard Lionel lube/maintenance kit. Will definitely need new stuff this season. I want to say someone used something called gunslick for oil or greasing.

Well, thats a graphite gun grease with a stellar reputation. (but I'm an oil guy in weapons. Thick?).  Birchwood Casey "Sheath" is my fav. at the moment.. which I also wipe all train metal with. (plastic safe too. Kinda light, but doing it's job well so far; doesn't seem to collect crud, low odor on spray day, and wipes clean & "dry"(read as too thin to see) prety easily, and alcohol cleans it totally dry.

  I'd have to guess that it was the kit (I'm pretty sure there was a few "bad years" for Lionel & grease)

  Or it was too heavy, or just plain incompatable. At least it survived and you kinda learned a little something, eh? Lube often has a shelf life, and don't mix them if you can help it. Pick and stick to it, or be observant of it at least. 

Adriatic posted:

Well, thats a graphite gun grease with a stellar reputation. (but I'm an oil guy in weapons. Thick?).  Birchwood Casey "Sheath" is my fav. at the moment.. which I also wipe all train metal with. (plastic safe too. Kinda light, but doing it's job well so far; doesn't seem to collect crud, low odor on spray day, and wipes clean & "dry"(read as too thin to see) prety easily, and alcohol cleans it totally dry.

  I'd have to guess that it was the kit (I'm pretty sure there was a few "bad years" for Lionel & grease)

  Or it was too heavy, or just plain incompatable. At least it survived and you kinda learned a little something, eh? Lube often has a shelf life, and don't mix them if you can help it. Pick and stick to it, or be observant of it at least. 

Let's move this to its own topic. I want to ask some questions.

Last edited by Tom M

About 15 yrs ago, after not working on my layout for about 2 yrs, I decided to sell it to a friend. Well....... Last yr I  started building a small layout (8' x 4') with the help of the grand kids, we call it the "Mystery Mountain", one of the trains is 8' long, it enters and completely disappears in the  2.5' long mountain, then exits out the other end.

I've got the bug to build another larger layout. Lately I've been acquiring several stuff for it. A few months back, I purchased some building kits, some from forum members here. I put them together, little detailing and added lights.  Here three of them.

 

 

1) lighted buildings [1) crp1) lighted buildings [3) crp1) lighted buildings [4) crp1) lighted buildings [5) crp1) lighted buildings [12) crp1) lighted buildings [15) crp

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  • 1) lighted buildings (12) crp
  • 1) lighted buildings (15) crp

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