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Sometimes you can't save the last vestiges of original paint and still have something that's pleasing to the eye, and sometimes there's underlying damage, the repair of which will significantly defile any original paint, or you simply have to remove paint in order to make the repair. Unless it's a piece that's genuinely rare, I don't get hung up about repainting something, and I agree with you, I frequently leave frames and pilots in their original paint, regardless of how battered they are.

Here's an early 253 whose cab I recently repainted in its original color (or at least as close as I could get to it). It had been dropped at some point and the tabs on the cab ends were broken; there was no way to reattach them except a judicious use of solder. In order to do that, we had to remove a bit of paint, which then ultimately required a complete strip and respray. A couple repro headlamps and a new pantograph completed the refurbishment:

No polishing of the original brasses, all of the original unbroken parts present were saved and reused, and the frame was left as is (except for a thorough cleaning). The motor was serviced and lubricated (the collector assembly will have to be replaced eventually), but for now, it's ready for its next 100 years.

PD

Last edited by pd
@Mallard4468 posted:

Those are very interesting - I've never seen them.  Far more detail and bling than many of the cottage industry cars.  What kind of mechanism is in the locomotive?  How much do these typically sell for?

I had never even heard of this brand   The Western division of the TCA has a great write up on them on their website  http://www.tcawestern.org/usttc.htm   

The locomotive looks like it has a Lionel motorized unit in it   Possibly a trolley

I have no idea how much they go for as there havent been any sales of them in the past few months   Worthpoint didnt even show a sale

@pd posted:

Thanks for the clarification. I was wondering what the difference between the two was. I was looking at it the other day, wondering how one changes the bulb should it burn out.

PD

To change the bulb, you want to remove the building from the gray base that it is on (and not the roof from the building).  If you remove the roof, you may end up breaking a tab that would show, where the tabs that hold the building to the base will not show if they break.

To change the bulb, you want to remove the building from the gray base that it is on (and not the roof from the building).  If you remove the roof, you may end up breaking a tab that would show, where the tabs that hold the building to the base will not show if they break.

Thanks...it looked like a tab-job, which is never a great option, lol. Hopefully it lights when I test it.

Three Flyer 3/16" O gauge cars.  Bought these from a vendor at a show who had boxes full of 3/16" Flyer O parts.

The 483 flatcar was cleaned up and repainted.

I bought two 480 tank cars.  The common Shell version and the rarer silver and blue one.  The silver car was in very bad shape, so I repainted the orange Shell car.

The 516 caboose is the diecast version.  Gave it a coat of red paint and an LED bulb.

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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