My recent Bing finds,  just arrived today.

 

The 2 on the left I bought previously, metal litho with rivets. The 3 on the right are newBing 4 NYC 1 PRR

New New York Central Lines 253 Coach, this one has the wood style litho. BW Germany underneath

Bing New 253 Wood Panel

New York Central Lines 501 Baggage/Mail Car(Orange lettering?). "Bing Miniature Railroad System" on top of both ends. Embossed logo is a "GBN" diamond and "Bavaria"  underneath the diamond

Bing New 501 US Mail

New York Central Lines 259. Came with wheels unlike the other 2 new guys. "Bing Miniature Railroad System" on top of Observation End. Embossed logo underneath is "GBN" diamond with "Bavaria" below the diamond

Bing New 253 NYC Obs Wood Panel

501 Baggage car Litho detail "The bing Miniature Railroad System" at the top

Bing 501 Litho End Bing Miniature Railroad System

Bottom of the NYC Lines 259 Observation car

Bing NYC 259 TM GBN Bavaria

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StevefromPA posted:

And, can't forget, picked up this Marx Girard station. Whistle doesn't work but price was right and it was in good shape. Like the look much better than my previous station I had here

Marx Girard Station 5:20

Does the whistle even try to turn? If so maybe just some oil.

Steve

 

Steve "Papa" Eastman

Yorba Linda, CA

Left Coast, Home of the lunatics

John Smatlak posted:

A question about Flyer brushes- when I got this locomotive it didn't run. Applying a little pressure on one of the brushes got things to start turning, so I took off the wires and removed the tiny little outer cap (that rests in the end of the spring) and then the spring inside each brush tube. I then turned the engine on its side and gave it a few taps expecting some carbon brushes (or remains thereof) to fall out. Nothing came out. I tried a little lifting from the commutator side using a flat rule, but nothing comes out. So I re-tensioned the one spring that was obviously weak, put it back together and it started running fine. Since it started running I didn't want to explore further and take off the brush plate. Question- what's in those brush tubes? A conventional carbon brush? a brass one?

Thanks!

 

Conventional carbon/copper brush... sometimes they get stuck with all the grunge in the tube, a good cleaning will solve that.

Prewar Tin...Any maker, any gauge, anytime!

Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:
StevefromPA posted:

And, can't forget, picked up this Marx Girard station. Whistle doesn't work but price was right and it was in good shape. Like the look much better than my previous station I had here

Marx Girard Station 5:20

Does the whistle even try to turn? If so maybe just some oil.

Steve

 

@Steve “Papa” Eastman unfortunarely I bought it w/o the whistle and there are no binding posts to boot. The condition is really good, and like I said price was nice too, but I’m kind of kicking myself for not shelling out a little more because the whistle would be cool. Might try to sell this one to a few people I know locally and then buy one with a whistle OR buy one on the cheap that’s not in good shape with a whistle that works. Thanks for the help and advice though, much appreciated my friend.

StevefromPA posted:
 
 

@Steve “Papa” Eastman unfortunarely I bought it w/o the whistle and there are no binding posts to boot. The condition is really good, and like I said price was nice too, but I’m kind of kicking myself for not shelling out a little more because the whistle would be cool. Might try to sell this one to a few people I know locally and then buy one with a whistle OR buy one on the cheap that’s not in good shape with a whistle that works. Thanks for the help and advice though, much appreciated my friend.

It will be a good space filler until you find one with a whistle. Now to find the nicer looking Oak Park station.

Steve

Steve "Papa" Eastman

Yorba Linda, CA

Left Coast, Home of the lunatics

Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:
StevefromPA posted:
 
 

@Steve “Papa” Eastman unfortunarely I bought it w/o the whistle and there are no binding posts to boot. The condition is really good, and like I said price was nice too, but I’m kind of kicking myself for not shelling out a little more because the whistle would be cool. Might try to sell this one to a few people I know locally and then buy one with a whistle OR buy one on the cheap that’s not in good shape with a whistle that works. Thanks for the help and advice though, much appreciated my friend.

It will be a good space filler until you find one with a whistle. Now to find the nicer looking Oak Park station.

Steve

The Oak Park Station is certainly an eye catcher, and I also just like the name a lot more- feels like "Oak Park" could fit just about anywhere whereas to the unknowing "Girard" just doesn't fit as well. Sorry for being over analytical, just finished a long day of work and my brain is still in that analytical mode.

That said, I'd love to get a Marx Grand Central. Obviously different than Girard, Oak Park & the larger Glendale station- but that one is just really neat.

That said, I'm expecting 2 smaller prewar tin litho stations/depots coming in the mail by Saturday. One is the Flyer Town depot that says in a litho'd crate on the front " from American Flyer Mfg. Co. Chicago Ill." the other is a Hafner Glen Ellyn Station. Both were on the cheap and in decent condition so I'll be adding some Illinois flavor to my layout.

I had the opportunity to visit ETS trains in Prague two years ago. Great people, warm and welcoming, nice showroon. They gave myself and my family a tour and naturally I walked out with quite a few items. Great quality and a wide variety of models to choose from.

Miket 

Lionel2056 posted:

This arrived in the mail today. It is an American Flyer 3115, with holes punched on both sides. Would anyone know when American Flyer started punching these holes in the sides of the 3115?

IMG_0034

I think the oval holes in the sides were done sometime after 1928 (as I have some engines without the oval holes), but don't know the exact date.  The hole is for oiling the armature axis / gears.

Rob English posted:
John Smatlak posted:

A question about Flyer brushes- when I got this locomotive it didn't run. Applying a little pressure on one of the brushes got things to start turning, so I took off the wires and removed the tiny little outer cap (that rests in the end of the spring) and then the spring inside each brush tube. I then turned the engine on its side and gave it a few taps expecting some carbon brushes (or remains thereof) to fall out. Nothing came out. I tried a little lifting from the commutator side using a flat rule, but nothing comes out. So I re-tensioned the one spring that was obviously weak, put it back together and it started running fine. Since it started running I didn't want to explore further and take off the brush plate. Question- what's in those brush tubes? A conventional carbon brush? a brass one?

Thanks!

 

Conventional carbon/copper brush... sometimes they get stuck with all the grunge in the tube, a good cleaning will solve that.

Thanks-  it's what I had assumed but I appreciate the confirmation. I've encountered many a stuck brush, if it stops running I'll go in there and flush it out or pull out the brush plate as required. Thanks again.

Picked these up over the last week:

Flyer Town Depot & Hafner Glen Ellyn Station. Feel like the bases have been modified but they look nice on the layout. For the price, it was right and they look nice:

Flyer Town Depot off the spur

Flyer Town Depot on Layout

Hafner Glen Ellyn & Flyer Town Depot(rear view)

Flyer Twon Depot & Hafner Glen Ellyn

Glen Ellyn on the layout, upgrade over my previous structure.

Hafner Glen Ellyn on layot

Side view of the Hafner Glen Ellyn Station

Hafner Glen Ellyn

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Picked these 3 up about a week ago, just arrived today. My first 8 wheel Bing, a Bing crossing in need or "some" cleaning up(suggestions appreciated!), and an older Ives 51 Pennsylvania Lines Newark- just liked the way it looked:

 

Bing American Mkt 425 Express Service Baggage NYC Lines 8 wheelBing NYC Lines 425 8 wheel

Embossed logo on bottom of 425 baggage

Bottom Bing 425

Roof of Bing 425- something tells me its not the original. Compared it to the top of my 4 wheel Bings(American & German Market), Marklin, Ives, Lionel and Flyer prewar- none have, I'm sorry I can't remember the word(I think it's vents?), but "bumps" that big

Top Bing 425

Bing Level Crossing, paint is flaking but I liked it and that's what counts

Bing Level Crossing

Finally this little Ives Pennsylvania Lines No 51 Newark. Came w/o roof but it's a neat little car. Couplers riveted in. Everything matches up well. Don't know if I'll be running it much but being from PA and considering it's age, happy to add this guy

Ives 51 Penn Lines Newark

 

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StevefromPA posted:

Picked these 3 up about a week ago, just arrived today. My first 8 wheel Bing, a Bing crossing in need or "some" cleaning up(suggestions appreciated!), and an older Ives 51 Pennsylvania Lines Newark- just liked the way it looked:

 

Bing American Mkt 425 Express Service Baggage NYC Lines 8 wheelBing NYC Lines 425 8 wheel

Embossed logo on bottom of 425 baggage

Bottom Bing 425

 

 

 

I couldn't make out the wording on the Bing baggage car...Made in ???

Nice purchases. I like the Glen Ellyn station, too. 

Tom 

Thanks, Dennis! It's 2 rail so I'm trying to find a way to integrate it into a 3 rail layout, although I'd like to give clock-work a try and I'll have time with my summer break about to hit. Open to any suggestions! Tried running modern locos(distance between contact rollers) and they went over it but there was a bit of a bump as it rises up in the middle. 

Finally, picture of current tinplate consist. Don't judge the kayout to harshly, work has caused a bit of clutter

Tinplate consist 5 28

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Another telltale.

A few weeks ago I was inspired by another forum member making a telltale from a broken street light, so I made one. ( by the way I've changed that hideous finial).

DSCN6327

I needed/ wanted more than one and since broken street likes aren't that easy to come by I looked for other items to make more from. Below is what I found.

DSCN6395DSCN6396

This one is made using the metal base from a Marx searchlight ( that I cannibalized for another project) A square dowel ( 12 inch) , a wooden craft stick, A piece of brass rod, some craft chain and split rings and a small brass finial from Home Depot. The parts used are shown below.

DSCN6398DSCN6399

This took almost no time to build, the longest thing was waiting for the paint to dry. While it is not as authentic as the first one it does look good and is easy to duplicate.  Now I'll have to think of a use for the girder part of the cannibalized Marx searchlight tower that is left especially since I'll soon have a few more in my junk box.

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StevefromPA posted:

Thanks, Dennis! It's 2 rail so I'm trying to find a way to integrate it into a 3 rail layout, although I'd like to give clock-work a try and I'll have time with my summer break about to hit. Open to any suggestions! Tried running modern locos(distance between contact rollers) and they went over it but there was a bit of a bump as it rises up in the middle. 

Finally, picture of current tinplate consist. Don't judge the kayout to harshly, work has caused a bit of clutter

Tinplate consist 5 28

Not aure this will work but maybe try using a section of piano wire the same diameter as a track pin and install that between the adjacent three rail sections with some tape under the wire so it does not short out.

Dennis Holler If its old and broke, I like it

@Dennis Holler hmm sounds interesting- worth a shot. Suggestion much appreciated- when I get some piano wire I'll let you know how it goes. The rise in the middle is rather high but it's possible that the underside of the engine I was using was hitting that portion because it was going from a realtrax tubular adapter directly to the crossing whereas if it was tubular and then the crossing the transition would've been smoother. My Williams GP-9 didn't make it because of contact roller placement but my RMT buddys did. Again, thanks!

0530191731I painted this Tootsietoy kerosene truck. Next time I'll use primer. I think the color might have come out more even had I bothered to try to find where I left it. Never painted a die cast car before. It's probably small for O scale, but doesn't seem too out of place next to my Marx train.

This is getting out of control...

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Philipp posted:

0530191731I painted this Tootsietoy kerosene truck. Next time I'll use primer. I think the color might have come out more even had I bothered to try to find where I left it. Never painted a die cast car before. It's probably small for O scale, but doesn't seem too out of place next to my Marx train.

Now take a picture of shell on side of tank car and using decal paper make decals for the truck with your computer and inkjet printer 

Philipp posted:

0530191731I painted this Tootsietoy kerosene truck. Next time I'll use primer. I think the color might have come out more even had I bothered to try to find where I left it. Never painted a die cast car before. It's probably small for O scale, but doesn't seem too out of place next to my Marx train.

Nice!  I have been buying the 5.5 to 6 inch Tootsietoy cars lately and they are a bit larger and seem to go better with the O gauge trains.

I am planning on painting several of the Tootsietoy items this summer, as I am primarily buying junkers or already repainted inexpensive items.  

NWL

Nation Wide Lines posted:
Philipp posted:

0530191731I painted this Tootsietoy kerosene truck. Next time I'll use primer. I think the color might have come out more even had I bothered to try to find where I left it. Never painted a die cast car before. It's probably small for O scale, but doesn't seem too out of place next to my Marx train.

Nice!  I have been buying the 5.5 to 6 inch Tootsietoy cars lately and they are a bit larger and seem to go better with the O gauge trains.

I am planning on painting several of the Tootsietoy items this summer, as I am primarily buying junkers or already repainted inexpensive items.  

NWL

I’d be interested to see how they look with your trains. I just stripped a 5.5in 55 Packard Tootsietoy that might look good with O scale. Junkers and repaints are also my choice.

This is getting out of control...

Philipp posted:
Nation Wide Lines posted:
Philipp posted:

0530191731I painted this Tootsietoy kerosene truck. Next time I'll use primer. I think the color might have come out more even had I bothered to try to find where I left it. Never painted a die cast car before. It's probably small for O scale, but doesn't seem too out of place next to my Marx train.

Nice!  I have been buying the 5.5 to 6 inch Tootsietoy cars lately and they are a bit larger and seem to go better with the O gauge trains.

I am planning on painting several of the Tootsietoy items this summer, as I am primarily buying junkers or already repainted inexpensive items.  

NWL

I’d be interested to see how they look with your trains. I just stripped a 5.5in 55 Packard Tootsietoy that might look good with O scale. Junkers and repaints are also my choice.

Here are some of the cars and trucks that I have bought so far.  Just kind of grouped in one area.

Some of the Tootsietoy repaints 3 Jaguars, 2 Mercedes, Austin-Healy, and MG

Tootsietoy Caddy and Hubley Rambler wagon.

Couple of Oldsmobile convertibles and Ford Wagon

Some of the items needing repainting in the front row from right to left, Tootsietoy Lincoln Capri, Porsche Spyder, Buick Wagon.  In the back row from left to right a Hubley Lincoln Continental, Hubley Ranchero, and Tootsietoy Ford Wagon.

They look relatively good and should be easy to paint.  Can also have multiple items, just paint them differing colors.  

NWL

Dennis, I know this may sound like sacrilege but have you ever considered restoring one of those engines to running condition and replacing the brass and copper with either new parts or polishing the original but leaving all of the rust and  discoloration on the drive rods, wheels, chassis, and superstructure alone?  If you did, you could claim your stable of locomotives has a true-to-prototype weathered engine only instead of you having to take the time to do the weathering you let father time do it for you. 

Dennis Holler posted:

F3F43153-743C-4CFA-B82E-FE26ABFC0051Got this 255E project in the mail the other day. Now waiting its turn. Nice straight frame worth the price of admission.

 

Looks like the start of some fun. Interesting cross shaped fastener holding the drive rod to the rear drive wheel - what is that called? And what tool is needed to tighten/loosen without damage?

George

Robert S. Butler posted:

Dennis, I know this may sound like sacrilege but have you ever considered restoring one of those engines to running condition and replacing the brass and copper with either new parts or polishing the original but leaving all of the rust and  discoloration on the drive rods, wheels, chassis, and superstructure alone?  If you did, you could claim your stable of locomotives has a true-to-prototype weathered engine only instead of you having to take the time to do the weathering you let father time do it for you. 

It is very tempting to say the least!

Dennis Holler If its old and broke, I like it

Steamer posted:

I like that. How did you mount the coupler? My 262 still needs a pilot.

The coupler isn’t mounted yet.  The new apron on the front took a few hours to knock out as I am really tooled for wood work, not metal.  The top portion is really long, it actually goes through the opening in the steam chest.  I am trying to duplicate the dual swivel set up 2800 series freight cars.  I think I have enough rivets to do the job.  I will need to drill a partial hole in the underside of the pilot deck of the engine to accept the tang on the coupler.  I am need to make a pivot link from the rear hole to the hole on the coupler.  This needs to be a little thicker than the material I made the new pilot out of.  I try to cut up a ss outlet cover I had laying around, but my drill bit kept walking sideways.  I have some more work to do for sure

2F3C51F8-C18C-4D27-9B9E-FEC483D7D994

May God Bless us all.

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Steamer posted:

I like that. How did you mount the coupler? My 262 still needs a pilot.

FYI, I don’t have a 262e, but I do have a 261e, which I believe is very similar.  The 261e pilot is cast as part of the frame and I suspect the 262e is the same.  On a 260e, or 263e like mine, the pilot is a separate piece held on with two screws.  On a 261 or 262 a different approach would be needed.

May God Bless us all.

  I'd try to mount as close to wheels as you can.

  Your geometry differs, but adding a coupler to a Generals body, it would get pulled off the rails in curves double heading or pushed itself off pushing a heavy car.  Mounting to the pilot truck stopped it. All the lateral forces go to those pilot wheel flanges now.

Like I said totally different geometry, a Gen. has close set drivers at the rear so the nose becomes a long lever, but you might want to rig things for a test before total commitment & holes.

I still cant push well because the coupler is long and swings to the side very easily, binding at couplers (claw) and derailing the cars truck at times.  But double heading was what I was after, so..."sold". 

 Looks good though. Nice even rolls. Always sand, clean, AND primer metal eh Maybe even a brush coat of black(?) on the edges before the finish coat. Edges chip easier and hold less paint at the tip of the "point(s)" of edges.

"Still trying to not shoot my eye out"

 

"Nursing insomnia one railcar at a time"

My aroma therapy? Smoke Pellets.

 





and my latest hair brain idea.....

I got a 225E shell in a junk deal several years ago with a chunk broken out of the cab.

PTDC0001L

thought about finding a busted shell for the window section, but haven't yet.

I already have a complete 225E....so the wheels have turned on different ideas. The Wife bought a 675 shell for me at an antique shop a few months ago.

PTDC0002L

I started to do up another K4, but since I already have four 675/2025/2035s, I was thinking of doing something different. 

PTDC0003L

so the dremel came out.......

PTDC0004L

PTDC0005L

It will get a fourth driving axle, probably end up a 4-8-2 or 4? And I've been wanting to do another Vandy tender. 

Dave

 

 

 

Saving Tinplate One Piece at a Time

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Steamer posted:

and my latest hair brain idea.....

I got a 225E shell in a junk deal several years ago with a chunk broken out of the cab.

PTDC0001L

thought about finding a busted shell for the window section, but haven't yet.

I already have a complete 225E....so the wheels have turned on different ideas. The Wife bought a 675 shell for me at an antique shop a few months ago.

PTDC0002L

I started to do up another K4, but since I already have four 675/2025/2035s, I was thinking of doing something different. 

PTDC0003L

so the dremel came out.......

PTDC0004L

PTDC0005L

It will get a fourth driving axle, probably end up a 4-8-2 or 4? And I've been wanting to do another Vandy tender. 

I love it Dave!  Turn that imagination loose!!!! 

Dennis Holler If its old and broke, I like it

Fix the cab, slap a noze & chest back on.. for a stubby 0-4-0/0-4-2/2-4-0. .  (I think the Genral frames have the smallest steam wheelbase)$-? 

  Maybe skip the stack and call it a fireless?

  Cut the box off and do a styrene filler there if youd feel better.

"Still trying to not shoot my eye out"

 

"Nursing insomnia one railcar at a time"

My aroma therapy? Smoke Pellets.

 





jhz563 posted:

Work in progress, but you’ll get the idea

C40B5773-50C8-4B19-8BCC-126D45B37C601DE0751A-51A3-4EEC-9033-E37DB68E31E8

Very nice 262!!! I'm not really into steam- prefer electrical and diesel- BUT this guy has been at my buddy's shop and has caught my eye along with a Royal Blue. Very Nice piece and love the front mounted coupler- very well put together!

Went to a train show/swap meet in Hamburg PA yesterday- wish I would've went earlier but I was waiting on my dad. Regardless- got a few nice pieces of tin!:

1st off Brimtoy Station:

Brimtoy Station

 

Next from bottom left to top right: Marx Block Signal, AF prewar 8 Wheel 1116(works decently for transitions between Ives, Bing,Flyer, Marx & Lionel Slot &Latch couplers), Marx Electric prewar CV(LOVE THIS GUY!) Mizuno 'East West' Caboose, All Wooden Kit Northern Refrigetertor Car CO.-Maker unknown(INFO Appreciated!). In the back- Marx floodlight tower.Hamburg Mizino AF Prewar Marx CV, Marx bLOCK nrc kIT

Marx 567 Side Dump($5) & Marx Colorado & Southern R.R. Refrigerator car(20 less than the price at an LHS!)

Marx 6 2 Hamburg Freight

FINALLY!!! Marx Twin AA Southern Pacific 6000. Good Lord do I love how this guy moves on the tracks- so much so that 2 of my 3 lines are about to become Tin Only!

SP 600 Marx Twin AA

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The Marx 6000 SP with a previous dummy unit in addition to the European cars I picked up(close-ups and descriptions following up below)Marx SP flood tower Bing Bub Hornby

Can't recall if this is a Bing, Bubg or a Hornby? The coupler in the foreground is the original coupler- tried to change how it was facing(previously faced upwards) but it broke. Replaced it with a Marx coupler initially as well as a couple from the Mizuno caboose. Ended up removing both couplers from the Mizuno Caboose to fit on to this guy and it looks great and fits as a great transition piece. Kicking myself for not picking up the Blue 2nd and 3rd class coach but it had no couplers. Regardless, really like this car- can anyone tell me who the maker is? My guess is Karl BubBing Byb Hornby? Class 1 & 2

Love this guy! Already have a Bing baggage car(10/565- 1931) w/ Auto Couplers as well as Marklin 17280. This is my first car with a KB/BW combined logo(look closely to the right of the door on the far left- there's a "KB(above a)"BW") and has "Made in Bavaria" Litho'd on the top end on the "right side"(in terms of this picture orientation)

Bub Bing 14780 4602:0

Hornby by Meccano Pullman "Marjorie". Clearly not in great condition but I think it looks really cool and was close to buying one on eBay a couple months back(different car name)

Hornby Meccanno Majorie

Corgi Renault from Corgi Heritage Classics collection. My Grandpa started my brother and I off with this collection,  w now have 3 of the 5. Love these guys.

corgi Renault 6 2

Finally, was going back and forth between the engine which I've had in my sights for quite sometime- 1.)an Ives 3258(Yellow Body, Green Roof) with 4 cars(very reasonably priced) a then 2.) a Hornby SNCF 20v electric outline French Market. Was going to pull the trigger on the Hornby so I could have an engine that goes with my European cars with that type of coupler(have been using my Lionel 254e that has been fitting with the latch/slot coupler and actually does hooks up quite well). Bench tested the Hornby- but it didn't move- no noise, nada.


 

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nice finds Steve. Our oldest daughter's name is Marjorie. It was  impossible to find anything with her name on it when she was growing up...the little licence plates for the bicycle, ,Marjorie's Room, etc. A couple years ago a forum member posted a pic of the Hornby Marjorie, and while he didn't want to sell his, his tipped me off to one on da bay. It sit's in her office now.

 

Marjorie

Dave

 

 

 

Saving Tinplate One Piece at a Time

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@StevefromPA  prewar in general used more voltage. 

  Look at the prewar Z for example, it tops out at 25v. A later ZW is 20v. (The Z counted on external whistle boxes that ate 5v. The ZW separates 5v worth of windings and sends it straight to the internal whistle circuit, leaving 20v worth of windings for the throttles/acc..)

  The other difference is, it is likely it was a 50hz system there, but in the states we mostly use 60hz.  Good news is that the 50hz motors characteristics on 60hz should all improve slightly.  

  The question is would the 20v rating be like saying our motors are a 12v (cruising speed, most efficient), or 20v (max "safe" voltage)¿? ; Because there were 40-50v trains...which I imagine would run at slowish prototypical speed at 20v.    I.e. it may be half speed at full throttle, or will run just like most prewar, but it should run. With lite tin behind it, you'd be ok even if it was high volt I think.

"Still trying to not shoot my eye out"

 

"Nursing insomnia one railcar at a time"

My aroma therapy? Smoke Pellets.

 





StevefromPA posted:

 

2.) a Hornby SNCF 20v electric outline French Market. Was going to pull the trigger on the Hornby so I could have an engine that goes with my European cars with that type of coupler(have been using my Lionel 254e that has been fitting with the latch/slot coupler and actually does hooks up quite well). Bench tested the Hornby- but it didn't move- no noise, nada.


 

Most French Hornby 20V are DC with permanent magnet, so will not move on an AC transformer.

Regards

Fred

Thank you @sncf231e for that information- I did test it DC(hope I pressed the correct switch at the testing table)- and there was nothing going. The seller didn't seem very confident that it would work but said he was going to tinker with it and would be back for the next meet it July. and thank you @Adriatic for your insight and asking the questions which I've been wanting to ask as they relate to  a Marklin baggage car I acquired some weeks ago- think I'm gonna make another thread for it.

Steamer posted:

nice finds Steve. Our oldest daughter's name is Marjorie. It was  impossible to find anything with her name on it when she was growing up...the little licence plates for the bicycle, ,Marjorie's Room, etc. A couple years ago a forum member posted a pic of the Hornby Marjorie, and while he didn't want to sell his, his tipped me off to one on da bay. It sit's in her office now.

 

Marjorie

That's a really cool story @Steamer . There's certain items i keep in my office at work from my grandfather, haven't added a train yet, but next year I will. Regardless, very cool story and that Pullman is in great shape! I've been trying to find some train for my younger brother, as his birthday is coming up, that would have the type of a personal touch like your gift to your daughter.  Don't think I'll ever find a car with "Andrew" as the name but I'm sure I'll find something

GeoPeg posted:
Dennis Holler posted:

F3F43153-743C-4CFA-B82E-FE26ABFC0051Got this 255E project in the mail the other day. Now waiting its turn. Nice straight frame worth the price of admission.

 

Looks like the start of some fun. Interesting cross shaped fastener holding the drive rod to the rear drive wheel - what is that called? And what tool is needed to tighten/loosen without damage?

George

These types of heads are called "Line drive" or "cross drive" or "cross spanner" these days.  There is a spanner bit made that -with some grinding- can be made to work... start with a #14 spanner bit.

Prewar Tin...Any maker, any gauge, anytime!

Just picked this part of a Bing platform up on eBay after the seller accepted me offer.

D47F65FF-AA03-4A5D-B67B-2221291CE5EE

After picking up a Wellls-Brimtoy raised station this past weekend, I really liked it but hate how it lacks a back. Besides buying another station to make it symmetrical, Which I didn’t want to do, I was stuck with placing it somewhere that the back wouldn’t be seen, which, with my current layout, meant having it face away from the track unless I’d make some major changes. With this piece, I don’t have to put it against a wall or worry as much about strategic placement because it adds a backside to the station. Once it arrives in the next 4 weeks( lol) I’ll be sure to post pictures.

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StevefromPA posted: 

 All Wooden Kit Northern Refrigetertor Car CO.-Maker unknown(INFO Appreciated!).Hamburg Mizino AF Prewar Marx CV, Marx bLOCK nrc kIT

 

 

there were a lot of sources for that type of kit built boxcars both pre and post war.  Picard, Westbrook, Hawk, and several others  are likely suspects.  Champion, of decal fame, also made printed cardboard sides.  Here are a couple of Westbrook cars for comparison.

100_3282100_3564100_3565

I have some others with prewar trucks on them like yours  and they work really we and look great in a train with the late prewar diecast steamers.

100_0495

Dennis Holler If its old and broke, I like it

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Rob English posted:
GeoPeg posted:
Dennis Holler posted:

F3F43153-743C-4CFA-B82E-FE26ABFC0051Got this 255E project in the mail the other day. Now waiting its turn. Nice straight frame worth the price of admission.

 

Looks like the start of some fun. Interesting cross shaped fastener holding the drive rod to the rear drive wheel - what is that called? And what tool is needed to tighten/loosen without damage?

George

These types of heads are called "Line drive" or "cross drive" or "cross spanner" these days.  There is a spanner bit made that -with some grinding- can be made to work... start with a #14 spanner bit.

Thanks, @Rob English I appreciate the response!

George

Dennis Holler posted:

F3F43153-743C-4CFA-B82E-FE26ABFC0051Got this 255E project in the mail the other day. Now waiting its turn. Nice straight frame worth the price of admission.

 

BTW - I saw replacements for these cross style fasteners on Henning's website today when looking for something else.

May God Bless us all.

Good stuff @Dennis Holler !! I knew about Westbrook- my father has a PRR box car by them. I never knew about a  market for wood box car kits prewar and the ones that you posted look really really cool. Mine currently doesn’t have couplers but once it gets some I’ll give it a good on some consists- it’s not in too terrible shape. Thanks again, Dennis

The photo of the nut wasn't showing before. That 4 way came in socket form in vintage Craftsman. I have plain square in the same tray too. I imagine the anti tamper blade would work on that size  though. 

"Still trying to not shoot my eye out"

 

"Nursing insomnia one railcar at a time"

My aroma therapy? Smoke Pellets.

 





StevefromPA posted:

Just picked this part of a Bing platform up on eBay after the seller accepted me offer.

D47F65FF-AA03-4A5D-B67B-2221291CE5EE

After picking up a Wellls-Brimtoy raised station this past weekend, I really liked it but hate how it lacks a back. Besides buying another station to make it symmetrical, Which I didn’t want to do, I was stuck with placing it somewhere that the back wouldn’t be seen, which, with my current layout, meant having it face away from the track unless I’d make some major changes. With this piece, I don’t have to put it against a wall or worry as much about strategic placement because it adds a backside to the station. Once it arrives in the next 4 weeks( lol) I’ll be sure to post pictures.

I saw one like this that I was watching. I think it had railing on three sides. I am looking for one that has the two horizontal bars through the stanchions instead of the balusters. Yours will look good with your station though.

George

Hi,

These two TCA 2018 Rhode Island convention cars came yesterday, very pleased, and my fleet of boxcars grows.

C4A16355-8B75-4D40-AAC6-942406EA484D667F5E50-5F70-4917-B34A-967C48469546

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C54F0DB1-1CB0-4EAD-A373-D8821B0BAD1D

An update on my standard gauge interurban created by Karl Rammling from an old Lionel passenger car. When I bought it at York the front was partly bare metal from Karl's original conversion many years ago. The ends have now been painted, window glass / clerestory added in the side and end windows, and green and red lenses added in the marker light openings (from an old Lionel 022 switch lamp). I also added an additional bulb up front to illuminate the headlight. It already ran great with it's Lionel bild-a-loco motor and chain drive, now it looks a bit more complete.

Here's what it looked like when I got it, lots of bare metal where the new front end had been created, removing the original doorway and adding windows, headlight and destination sign:

Karl Rammling standard gauge interurban before

Current appearance:

Karl Rammling interurban 6-8-19 2Karl Rammling interurban 6-8-19 3Karl Rammling interurban 6-8-19 4Karl Rammling interurban 6-8-19

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IMG_7592
George S posted:
StevefromPA posted:

Just picked this part of a Bing platform up on eBay after the seller accepted me offer.

D47F65FF-AA03-4A5D-B67B-2221291CE5EE

After picking up a Wellls-Brimtoy raised station this past weekend, I really liked it but hate how it lacks a back. Besides buying another station to make it symmetrical, Which I didn’t want to do, I was stuck with placing it somewhere that the back wouldn’t be seen, which, with my current layout, meant having it face away from the track unless I’d make some major changes. With this piece, I don’t have to put it against a wall or worry as much about strategic placement because it adds a backside to the station. Once it arrives in the next 4 weeks( lol) I’ll be sure to post pictures.

I saw one like this that I was watching. I think it had railing on three sides. I am looking for one that has the two horizontal bars through the stanchions instead of the balusters. Yours will look good with your station though.

George

George, I got lazy and posted a picture from a website instead of the one that I got on ebay with a red underside and yellow rubber stamped "Made in Germany". Curious- particular reason that you're looking for one with 2 bars perpendicular to the stanchions? Trying to complete a set? I know this piece I bought was separated from the  station platform with which it originally could be placed alongside or with a rail line or something else in between to add the number of lines the platform could service 

 

StevefromPA posted:
George S posted:
StevefromPA posted:

Just picked this part of a Bing platform up on eBay after the seller accepted me offer.

 

After picking up a Wellls-Brimtoy raised station this past weekend, I really liked it but hate how it lacks a back. Besides buying another station to make it symmetrical, Which I didn’t want to do, I was stuck with placing it somewhere that the back wouldn’t be seen, which, with my current layout, meant having it face away from the track unless I’d make some major changes. With this piece, I don’t have to put it against a wall or worry as much about strategic placement because it adds a backside to the station. Once it arrives in the next 4 weeks( lol) I’ll be sure to post pictures.

I saw one like this that I was watching. I think it had railing on three sides. I am looking for one that has the two horizontal bars through the stanchions instead of the balusters. Yours will look good with your station though.

George

George, I got lazy and posted a picture from a website instead of the one that I got on ebay with a red underside and yellow rubber stamped "Made in Germany". Curious- particular reason that you're looking for one with 2 bars perpendicular to the stanchions? Trying to complete a set? I know this piece I bought was separated from the  station platform with which it originally could be placed alongside or with a rail line or something else in between to add the number of lines the platform could service 

 

I’ve seen this one listed, but it’s not in my budget and I already have the canopy. 

E5136968-B9CE-4C97-9701-61A408E5DC7F

I like the look of it and the railing is similar to the railing on the station I built for my layout.

George

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John Smatlak posted:

An update on my standard gauge interurban created by Karl Rammling from an old Lionel passenger car. When I bought it at York the front was partly bare metal from Karl's original conversion many years ago. The ends have now been painted, window glass / clerestory added in the side and end windows, and green and red lenses added in the marker light openings (from an old Lionel 022 switch lamp). I also added an additional bulb up front to illuminate the headlight. It already ran great with it's Lionel bild-a-loco motor and chain drive, now it looks a bit more complete.

Here's what it looked like when I got it, lots of bare metal where the new front end had been created, removing the original doorway and adding windows, headlight and destination sign:

Karl Rammling standard gauge interurban before

Current appearance:

Karl Rammling interurban 6-8-19 2Karl Rammling interurban 6-8-19 3Karl Rammling interurban 6-8-19 4Karl Rammling interurban 6-8-19

It looks great John! How exactly is it powered?

TCA# 05-59610

Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

More of a got off my *** kinda thing. Finally dug some used trim molding out of the rafters to get some trim on this small section of the layout. The rest of the trim has been on for a few years.

Steve

6967A2AF-2C28-40F2-AB31-31F54EA3567E3EA4ADDF-AAAD-4DC6-9282-845FA3B122A9

That's a really pretty engine there.

Added more to my American Market Bing collection. A few More photos to come when I get home and more Bing in general to come this week!

1st up. #205 NEw York Central Lines, 8 wheel coach, wood side litho with orange letterings and orange window frames. Embossed “GBN(in diamond) Bavaria” on the bottom. Litho’d “Bing Miniature Railway System”(first car I have with that) on the top of each end

B0C993FC-6298-46C6-BE7B-8B96F15A70D1

Another 205 New York Central Lines, 8 wheel coach, wood side litho  with yellow lettering And window frames. Embossed “GBN(in diamond) Bavaria” on the bottom. Litho’d “Bing Miniature Railroad System” on the top of each end

89410630-977E-4881-B501-E23A80B2E91D

The only thing new here is the 20th Century in the back. Otherwise this i’ve posted this 259 woodwide litho Observation before. 20th century came from another NYC 259 that I bought. I’ll show the next picture later. You’ll notice that the 20th century is off center b/c it only has 7 ‘grooves’. My Pennsylvania RR Lines Riveted Obs car and the aforementioned NYC Lines all have 8 ‘grooves(?)’  on which to put this sign. Will likely switch out the back of the observations so that the sign is centered 

D4E5AB5B-21E5-4284-8254-0F4641E4DB2E

Bing 4 wheel New York Central Lines coach. Riveted litho body. Embossed bottom with “BW Germany”

F3A4049F-8E73-49EF-B2B8-D966140B8C25

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George S posted:
StevefromPA posted:
George S posted:
StevefromPA posted:

Just picked this part of a Bing platform up on eBay after the seller accepted me offer.

 

After picking up a Wellls-Brimtoy raised station this past weekend, I really liked it but hate how it lacks a back. Besides buying another station to make it symmetrical, Which I didn’t want to do, I was stuck with placing it somewhere that the back wouldn’t be seen, which, with my current layout, meant having it face away from the track unless I’d make some major changes. With this piece, I don’t have to put it against a wall or worry as much about strategic placement because it adds a backside to the station. Once it arrives in the next 4 weeks( lol) I’ll be sure to post pictures.

I saw one like this that I was watching. I think it had railing on three sides. I am looking for one that has the two horizontal bars through the stanchions instead of the balusters. Yours will look good with your station though.

George

George, I got lazy and posted a picture from a website instead of the one that I got on ebay with a red underside and yellow rubber stamped "Made in Germany". Curious- particular reason that you're looking for one with 2 bars perpendicular to the stanchions? Trying to complete a set? I know this piece I bought was separated from the  station platform with which it originally could be placed alongside or with a rail line or something else in between to add the number of lines the platform could service 

 

I’ve seen this one listed, but it’s not in my budget and I already have the canopy. 

E5136968-B9CE-4C97-9701-61A408E5DC7F

I like the look of it and the railing is similar to the railing on the station I built for my layout.

George

Good stuff George! Admittedly,I’d prefer the canopy . Thanks for showing this!

Got these in the mail yesterday. While there’s still plenty out there- I’m pretty much done buying Bing New York Central - unless its a loco .These guys look nice behind a 254E:

2395 Combine Car And 205 woodsode Coach. Combine car is probably my favorite overall. Woodside coach came with an Ives roof but I have a few of those 205s already

E532A4FC-C9DE-4C0A-B983-4A95A3F202E3E0E28A0E-9016-4479-A438-E3812807E0D2

250 NYC OBservation Car, Lakewood Obervation Car, Winnebago Coach431A0B1C-1E9C-41D2-AF4D-CF88A21CFC9C

some extras- the 205 on the left is nice(brightest 205 I have) but is really scuffed up. In the middle is an extra Lakewood Obs that came without wheels. In the back is a 4 wheel 259 Observation. On the right is a 205 with a terribly faded body that came with a frame with only one truck so I tried- and failed- to add a Marx truck to it.image

got these guys today. Thats the nice side of the B&O. Was sold as not running- got it moving in about 10min after some lube, piling and cleaning. The UP challenger has the auto couplers with a slot in them to connect tabs, had been looking for one of those at the right price for awhile. 231CED25-376E-4608-A3F6-01CE65994CCF

Finally, Bing watchman’s shanty without the base. Still a nice looking piece. Both doors open and the handle locks both doors too.072BCE19-DCBC-41A2-A837-820BBD7FB37F

first Bing piece I’ve bought with this logo that says “Bavaria” under the Be instead of Germany283D9D71-5119-4E5C-A998-4277DB0DF49A

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Still Germany, Bravaria is Germany's largest state. It's between Czechoslovakia, Austria, Switzerland, and the the rest of Germany (the seacoast). It's at the Northeast side of, at the base of the Alps. 

"Still trying to not shoot my eye out"

 

"Nursing insomnia one railcar at a time"

My aroma therapy? Smoke Pellets.

 





No pictures yet, but my TCA 2019 200 series hopper cars arrived yesterday.  One is in Rio Grande Yellow and the other silver.  I'll probably bring them to the 2019 convention in a few weeks for the Division trailer layout to run on the 5 rail loop. 

Jonathan

 

Adriatic posted:

Still Germany, Bravaria is Germany's largest state. It's between Czechoslovakia, Austria, Switzerland, and the the rest of Germany (the seacoast). It's at the Northeast side of, at the base of the Alps. 

Butch i mighta hit my head but I haven’t forgotten geography or European history lol.

I, and others, have wondered why Bing went from BAVARIA or MADE IN BAVARIA to replacing Bavaria with Germany. As you said it’s Germany’s largest state. It’s held special status, whether as an electorate or something else, throughout the history of “Germany”(quotes because Germany has gone through quite a few iterations since the fall of Holy Roman Empire). Possibly because laws were not nearly as specific back then that by not naming the trademark by country they avoided the post-WWI protective tariffs? 

Who knows- I just like it

 

  As well as fooled a few customers with anti-German sentiment, which was high for some unkown reason 🤔..  

  Who knows, they may have even been thinking of trying to rename it all Bravaria, or Prussia, etc.  I think one of my early 1900s encylopedias may refer to it as Bavaria too. (very interesting reading from an extremely dated encylcopedia. The state of mind, habits to beliefs, prejudices to politics of the day show themselves well dated, and often laughable contrasting against today)

"Still trying to not shoot my eye out"

 

"Nursing insomnia one railcar at a time"

My aroma therapy? Smoke Pellets.

 





Adriatic posted:

 I think one of my early 1900s encylopedias may refer to it as Bavaria too. 

Bavaria was still a Kingdom in the early 1900s with King Otto I until 1913 and before that the famous King Ludwig II who had a luxurious train made for himself, this is my H0 model of one of the cars.

Regards

Fred

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StevefromPa, Adriatic, and SNCF231E - just to add to the confusion below is a timeline progression of the trademark from some boxed sets of Bing.

Box lid from train cataloged in 1904 - Clockwork European outline engine

Bing_Box_1904

Box lid from train cataloged 1914 - American Market

Bing_Box_1914 copy

Box lid from trains mid-1920's - train set is NYC for the American market. Cars have plated wheels and are illuminated

Bing_Box_1924

Box lid from trains cataloged late 1920's - Generic set - electric outline locomotive passenger train would fit in anywhere

Bing_Box_late_1920s copy

 

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@Popi very cool AF tanker. Have acouple AF prewar- tanker is on my to get list! Also like that it’s Texaco as well!

An thanks for those pics @Robert S. Butler !! Gonna addthese to my Bing Logo Library lol. Actually just got my first piece with the logo from the last box you purchased. Part of a Passenger platform,  Yellow stamped on the bottom. 

This website is one of the websites I’ve been using for timeline purposes. 

Any idea if the embossed logos on the bottom of cars and the earlier litho’d trademarks on the frame differ from the logos on the boxes they came in? I have quite a few American Market cars with embossed bottom logos that are all over the place(plain GBN like in your first pic, BW Germany like in your second pic. Then I have an English Market freight wagon and a German Market Baggage car with an litho’d logo on the top ends of the car that is similar to your last pic- although not sure if it says “Made in” in front of Germany.

My favorite litho’d logo is from a 14780 Baggage car(looks just like this https://www.historytoy.com/bub...ge-car-green-gauge-0 ) except there’s only a 14780 on one side, on the other side there’s a logo that has a KB over the BW. See pic below:

A9830BD3-8737-40CF-9B91-C06C465542BA

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Robert S. Butler posted:

StevefromPa, Adriatic, and SNCF231E - just to add to the confusion below is a timeline progression of the trademark from some boxed sets of Bing.

Box lid from train cataloged in 1904 - Clockwork European outline engine

Bing_Box_1904

Box lid from train cataloged 1914 - American Market

Bing_Box_1914 copy

Box lid from trains mid-1920's - train set is NYC for the American market. Cars have plated wheels and are illuminated

Bing_Box_1924

Box lid from trains cataloged late 1920's - Generic set - electric outline locomotive passenger train would fit in anywhere

Bing_Box_late_1920s copy

 

I believe the GBN logo means gebruder bing nuremberg, or Brothers Bing of Nuremberg. I would guess the reason why they used Bavaria in the 20's for the American market was because of the anti-German sentiment from WW1.

George

I have been desperately trying to give my wallet a bit of a rest lately ... the moths that live in there have been complaining raucously!

I was doing so well , until one of my weakness's appeared on the 'bay and forced my hand

I really dont know why I have this weakness for Wittrock stuff, probably because it was only made for a few years and you dont see it very often. Being Danish in origin its not super well known outside of Denmark ...

Apologies for the photos as they are stolen off the listings ( haven't shipped to me yet)

So I got my third Clockwork Loco ...

And a nice little Postal Wagon

A cute little blue DSB Carriage..

DSB Freight...

And one especially for Fred @sncf231e

At first I wasnt too sure if the seller had got it right listing it as a Wittrock .. but using advanced Google-foo I did find it in a wittrock set picture (stolen from web)

All in all it was a good result .. only missed out on one wagon ( Fyffes "jamacan bananer")

I think there is only that one, the Carlsberg and a refrigerated van to complete my collection of Wittrock ?

 

 

 

Clockwork guys have a spring in their step!

Robert S. Butler posted:

The KB over BW logo dates from the 1930's takeover of Bing by Karl Bub.  I don't know how long that combined logo lasted. The actual year for the logo transition was 1933 - according to Claude Jeanmarie's book Bing Modellbahnen.

Yes, there was something major that happened in 1933 in that region, If not mistaken Bing (family) were of Jewish ancestory and the company was removed from his control at that time.  I should caution my comments are based on memory of things read over time.  That said If I remember correctly Bing then left and went to UK as he had ties with BS and other makers in the UK.    Fred or another regional member can probably provide some more accurate detail.  Also if you can find Bing and or KBN catalogs from the time there is overlap.  A lot of the Bing cars and accesories ended up in KBN catalogs.  I have some saved scans of I think a 1932 KBN cat so there may have been some overlap there.  But I think Bing was gone from Germany in1933 or soon there after.

Edit, just looked the 1932 is still Bing, not KBN.  it is the 1934 KBN scan that seems to show a lot of Bing stuff.  Of course timeline wise this would support the 1933 change as discussed above.

Dennis Holler If its old and broke, I like it

Dennis,

 If this helps, from the TCA:

Fortunes turned and by 1927 Bing was in serious financial trouble and the company's president, Stephan Bing, and his son, left the company. The US stock market crash of 1928 resulted in huge debts on the part of the John Bing division in New York being called in, for which the parent corporation had to take responsibility. This led to financial difficulties for Bing Werke, but given the political climate in Germany in 1932 (the Bing family was Jewish), no bank would loan Bing additional money. Bing Werke ceased to exist in August, 1932, and the assets were liquidated. Much of its tooling was acquired by rival toy companies. Falk and Krauss purchased the model steam related equipment, while Karl Bub of Bub Trains took the model train line, Fritz Hintermayr acquired the name and the gas boiler production, and Fleischmann bought up the model boat fabrication tooling and machinery. Bub continued building the Bing line of trains until the onset of WW2, and later folded completely in the 1960's. Bing went out of business for good in 1933 and the factory was abandoned.

Tom

My newly arrived Gunthermann clockwork tram. It has flanged wheels that are gauge one, although presumably it is a floor toy. Based on the appearance of the "AW" in the logo, I presume it to be from the pre-1920 period (see this page on the Binns Road site: http://www.binnsroad.co.uk/railways/gunthermann/index.html). It is highly detailed, including bow trolley on the roof and sign holders into which the owner can insert paper signs of their choice. Note the mustached tram driver at the controls! Any further information on the history of it would be welcome.

Gunthermann clockwork tram 2Gunthermann clockwork tram 3Gunthermann clockwork tram 4Gunthermann clockwork tram 5Gunthermann clockwork tram 6Gunthermann clockwork tram 7Gunthermann clockwork tram

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John Smatlak posted:

My newly arrived Gunthermann clockwork tram. It has flanged wheels that are gauge one, although presumably it is a floor toy. Based on the appearance of the "AW" in the logo, I presume it to be from the pre-1920 period (see this page on the Binns Road site: http://www.binnsroad.co.uk/railways/gunthermann/index.html). It is highly detailed, including bow trolley on the roof and sign holders into which the owner can insert paper signs of their choice. Note the mustached tram driver at the controls! Any further information on the history of it would be welcome.

Gunthermann clockwork tram 2Gunthermann clockwork tram 3Gunthermann clockwork tram 4Gunthermann clockwork tram 5Gunthermann clockwork tram 6Gunthermann clockwork tram 7Gunthermann clockwork tram

Very nice pick-up @John Smatlak !! You’re right- the detail is awesome!

Some of my finds/pick-ups/deliveries over. The last week and 1/2 or 2 weeks:

Lionel #127 Station. Partially repainted but for the price andhow it looks- good get!

8E9A303B-B559-4BC2-9268-09616AAFB541

image

Just got this yesterday from across the pond via eBay. Hornby by Meccano building. Didn’t know what it was at first, just thought it looked really neat and the price was reasonable. Upon arrival I noticed 3 fire tanks litho’d in the side, thus, it has now taken the place of my plasticville fire Station on the Lehigh Valley RR portion of my layout.

E31B7DE1-548C-4BF2-8F90-42B3F5B9B5E1

Got this on eBay in a 3 piece lot labelled “prewar American Flyer”. Well, I recognized the crossing(below) as Ives and upon further research found this to be the Ives 201 station which someone took it upon themselves to insert a light bulb via the roof. That said, besides the 2 holes in the roof, the lithography on the sides and paint on the roof is in great shape. Was able to reconfigure the wiring so that the wires don’t come from the roof anymore but slyly go out the rear exit. Due to its size, 1/32 scale figures can match up well with it  hence the larger benches.

F2F32100-3AC6-4584-A9AD-A9292622ADA3

image

The only Flyer piece from the aforementioned lot. It’s the No. 90 “American Flyer R.R.” Currently being used as a checkpoint to my “international zone” under U.N. & U.S. jurisdiction.

image

On the left, the last part of the “prewar AF lot” an Ives 216 crossing gate. Already have one(on the right) that I picked up at the Allentown First Frost. Those one is in much better condition, aka more original condition. 

5AC6C2FC-C3F0-418D-A0A5-3E7970067C51

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These arrived yesterday, with matching coaches. Both are Ives 3241s with a 184 buffet and 186 observation. The green one does run, but needs a new light bulb, as I believe it shattered during shipping. The red one, unfortunately, doesn't move. It buzzes loudly and at one point, started smoking. I have no idea what was going on, but once I saw smoke, I stopped trying to run it. Anyone have an idea why its not moving and smoking? Would this be an easy repair?

IMG_0053

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Lionel2056 posted:

These arrived yesterday, with matching coaches. Both are Ives 3241s with a 184 buffet and 186 observation. The green one does run, but needs a new light bulb, as I believe it shattered during shipping. The red one, unfortunately, doesn't move. It buzzes loudly and at one point, started smoking. I have no idea what was going on, but once I saw smoke, I stopped trying to run it. Anyone have an idea why its not moving and smoking? Would this be an easy repair?

 

Did you get them off of eBay, If so I also bid on them then stopped. Maybe just do the basics and check for broken wires/shorts and such. Lot of luck and keep us posted. Maybe start a new thread on your repairs 

RonH

Don't Junk it, Make it Work!

 

RonH posted:
Lionel2056 posted:

These arrived yesterday, with matching coaches. Both are Ives 3241s with a 184 buffet and 186 observation. The green one does run, but needs a new light bulb, as I believe it shattered during shipping. The red one, unfortunately, doesn't move. It buzzes loudly and at one point, started smoking. I have no idea what was going on, but once I saw smoke, I stopped trying to run it. Anyone have an idea why its not moving and smoking? Would this be an easy repair?

 

Did you get them off of eBay, If so I also bid on them then stopped. Maybe just do the basics and check for broken wires/shorts and such. Lot of luck and keep us posted. Maybe start a new thread on your repairs 

Hi Ron,

yes I did get them off of eBay. However, they were listed as 'Buy it now', so I didn't have to bid. Also, thanks for the advice. I'll take a look at the wires again, and see if there's anything I can do.

Lionel2056 posted:
RonH posted:
Lionel2056 posted:

These arrived yesterday, with matching coaches. Both are Ives 3241s with a 184 buffet and 186 observation. The green one does run, but needs a new light bulb, as I believe it shattered during shipping. The red one, unfortunately, doesn't move. It buzzes loudly and at one point, started smoking. I have no idea what was going on, but once I saw smoke, I stopped trying to run it. Anyone have an idea why its not moving and smoking? Would this be an easy repair?

 

Did you get them off of eBay, If so I also bid on them then stopped. Maybe just do the basics and check for broken wires/shorts and such. Lot of luck and keep us posted. Maybe start a new thread on your repairs 

Hi Ron,

yes I did get them off of eBay. However, they were listed as 'Buy it now', so I didn't have to bid. Also, thanks for the advice. I'll take a look at the wires again, and see if there's anything I can do.

Usually a buzzing sound comes from an e-unit as the magnet is holding the post. Does it have an e-unit? If so, the e-unit may be stuck. The smoke usually comes from the motor being energized but not moving. I usually spray the motor liberally with CRC contact cleaner and let it drain off.  I spin the wheels and the motor during this process to loosen everything up. I wipe out any dirt I can get to. I clean the brush heads and armature plates with a pencil eraser. Then, I re-lubricate the motor and axels. I put light grease on the gears and a drop of light weight oil on the armature axel on both sides. If the e-unit is sticking, a similar process is required. Sometimes you need to remove the post from the magnetic coil to clean it thoroughly. Then it will require a few drops of light weight oil. While you are doing all of this, you should inspect the wires for rot and the wire connections. I had one that looked OK, but was shorting on the underside to the frame. Rot isn't always noticeable either. Move the wire and all the insulation crumbles away. They you need to re-wire one wire at a time.  I bought cloth wrapped wire to keep the engine as original as possible.

Good luck!

George

Lionel2056 posted:

These arrived yesterday, with matching coaches. Both are Ives 3241s with a 184 buffet and 186 observation. The green one does run, but needs a new light bulb, as I believe it shattered during shipping. The red one, unfortunately, doesn't move. It buzzes loudly and at one point, started smoking. I have no idea what was going on, but once I saw smoke, I stopped trying to run it. Anyone have an idea why its not moving and smoking? Would this be an easy repair?

IMG_0053

Too hard to say if easy or hard with that little smidge of info. What exactly smokes is very relevent. Does it freewheel easily when pushed without power?  If not, start there with oiling and mechanical jiggling until it does or you know the mechanicals are stopping it (not WD -40 except to flush crap out, it's not a "true" oil. Bad rust, may take penetrate oil [liquid wrench, pb blaster, etc. keep this off windings, paint etc)... then flush and use motor oil. Visually check wires. From there a cheapie multi meter (ohm, volt at least) is a great help (and learning tool at the same time), a test light-even home made with a wire and 12-18v volt bulb beats nothing. Start a thread and you'll get better, more personalized help from folks.

  If it gets skipped over by (slim) chance, drop me an email at the address in my profile with a heads up. It's not rocket science, just something you aren't familiar with.        ....yet 😉.  The basics all pretty much the same for any open frame train motor. Nothing not learned in jr high electrical 101 class. You mostly only need the experts to wire things exactly as built (so easy there are multiple ways to wire things safely)...and that could be a last step.

I love those spoked wheels.

"Still trying to not shoot my eye out"

 

"Nursing insomnia one railcar at a time"

My aroma therapy? Smoke Pellets.

 





StevefromPA posted:

 

Just got this yesterday from across the pond via eBay. Hornby by Meccano building. Didn’t know what it was at first, just thought it looked really neat and the price was reasonable. Upon arrival I noticed 3 fire tanks litho’d in the side, thus, it has now taken the place of my plasticville fire Station on the Lehigh Valley RR portion of my layout.

E31B7DE1-548C-4BF2-8F90-42B3F5B9B5E1

 

This has been shown in this thread before: Hornby No 2 signal cabin

Regards

Fred

sncf231e posted:
StevefromPA posted:

 

Just got this yesterday from across the pond via eBay. Hornby by Meccano building. Didn’t know what it was at first, just thought it looked really neat and the price was reasonable. Upon arrival I noticed 3 fire tanks litho’d in the side, thus, it has now taken the place of my plasticville fire Station on the Lehigh Valley RR portion of my layout.

E31B7DE1-548C-4BF2-8F90-42B3F5B9B5E1

 

This has been shown in this thread before: Hornby No 2 signal cabin

Regards

Fred

Yours seems to be missing the external stairs on the left side.  Now here's a question: on the prototype, would the three buckets hanging on the wall in case of fire be filled with water? sand?

StevefromPA posted:

My favorite litho’d logo is from a 14780 Baggage car(looks just like this https://www.historytoy.com/bub...ge-car-green-gauge-0 ) except there’s only a 14780 on one side, on the other side there’s a logo that has a KB over the BW. See pic below:

A9830BD3-8737-40CF-9B91-C06C465542BA

The double logo was used only a short time. You can find them only on Bub cars, never on Bing cars. After buying a few tools from Bing, Bub has started this logo end of 1932, but about the copyright, it was banned  by a court in 1933.

Here a few other cars with them

bing-kb-01bing-kb-02bing-kb-03bing-kb-04bing-kb-05bing-kb-06

Arne

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Photos (6)
O Gauge Guy posted:
sncf231e posted:
StevefromPA posted:

 

Just got this yesterday from across the pond via eBay. Hornby by Meccano building. Didn’t know what it was at first, just thought it looked really neat and the price was reasonable. Upon arrival I noticed 3 fire tanks litho’d in the side, thus, it has now taken the place of my plasticville fire Station on the Lehigh Valley RR portion of my layout.

E31B7DE1-548C-4BF2-8F90-42B3F5B9B5E1

 

This has been shown in this thread before: Hornby No 2 signal cabin

Regards

Fred

Yours seems to be missing the external stairs on the left side.  Now here's a question: on the prototype, would the three buckets hanging on the wall in case of fire be filled with water? sand?

The stairs ain't missing, this is a Hornby No1 Signal Cabin, and the stairs are just printed on the side. As for the buckets, probably dry sand, fire buckets for use with water were always hung upside down, empty, obviously, to prevent them rotting out. They'd always be next to a standpipe too.

Cheers, Mark

@bigmark75f  What is a standpipe? (I'm thinking I know this but I'm brain pharting; isomnia)

Is that how they "hung" upside down. 

It makes some sense being emptied of water. It's the hanging that has me baffled. I've not seen a bucket handle I could use to hang a bucket upside down due to pivot height above center of gravity and lips rolled to the outer.diameter vs i.d where a hook could catch if hung sideways.

  Hey,  water would penetrate the sand clear to the bottom if it rained heavy too.

   Then again firehouse maintenance is no joke and buckets not as numerous anymore..? 😁

  I installed a lot of those yellow exhaust tubes for removing vehicle fumes from stations during start up and motor temp. retention. I was in more firehouses for more hours a week than many of the individual firemen would be, except a few super devoted brass here and there.

"Still trying to not shoot my eye out"

 

"Nursing insomnia one railcar at a time"

My aroma therapy? Smoke Pellets.

 





I recently purchased a 4 car Blue Comet set & 5 car State Set for $800. I'll be keeping the Blue Comet set and the add on Maryland car from the state set and selling the other 4 cars. I now have all the State Cars and can make a full 14' long 6 car train! I'm excited to run it on the 4th.

65148189_2399188460364632_4202085535847546880_n

Id post a pic of the Blue Comet set, but I don't have a locomotive for it currently. I think I'm going to find a black 392e at some point to pull it, I figure at Christmas time it'll look kinda like the Polar Express.

If you can't buy it... restore it. If you can't restore it... make it. If you can't make it...dangit...

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Brian Liesberg posted:

I recently purchased a 4 car Blue Comet set & 5 car State Set for $800. I'll be keeping the Blue Comet set and the add on Maryland car from the state set and selling the other 4 cars. I now have all the State Cars and can make a full 14' long 6 car train! I'm excited to run it on the 4th.

65148189_2399188460364632_4202085535847546880_n

Id post a pic of the Blue Comet set, but I don't have a locomotive for it currently. I think I'm going to find a black 392e at some point to pull it, I figure at Christmas time it'll look kinda like the Polar Express.

Wow - great deal - under $100 per car for Lionel/MTH finest.

Jim Waterman

Lee Lines Limited

Custom Built Standard Gauge

 

  I think the picture below would meet the criteria for "making anything cool", the only issue is that I took the picture and submitted it to the editor of the Train Collectors Quarterly back in January so, even though it is the cover of the just published July issue of the Quarterly, it might not meet the criteria for "lately". 

  As the opening credits of many movies state "the following is based on true events" - the key word is based - I did take some artistic license.

  The full story from Southern Railway Remembered is as follows:

"At the Alexandria Station the main line tracks separated into freight train tracks and passenger train tracks. The freight tracks, behind the northbound passenger waiting room, went into Potomac Yard. One morning a southbound train stopped right in front of the passenger sheds to wait for clearance. From the Alexandria station past Duke Street was a long curve, and incoming freight trains had a signal just before they got to the Duke Street Bridge. Because of the curve, northbound engineers had to depend on their firemen to 
let them know whether or not the signal was clear.

An RF&P freight was coming in, and when it got close to the curve the engineer asked his fireman how the signal was. The fireman replied," I can't see the signal for that caboose is blocking my view." The engineer threw the brakes into emergency-too late! He rammed the Southern caboose and stood it on end. The flagman saw him coming in time to get out of the way. He took off down Duke Street. Someone stopped him and asked why he was in such a hurry. He pointed back toward the bridge; the caboose was on fire, and flames were going high above the bridge. Fortunately, the Southern conductor had already started walking to the front of his train when the train struck so no one was injured. There were some hard feelings however. The conductor had bought a couple of hams in Monroe and left them on the caboose. By the time he got back to what was left of the caboose, his hams were cooked well done".

The diorama  

  For the diorama I first did a trial set up to get a sense of camera angles and the distance I would need to be away from the setup in order to guarantee everything was in focus.  I had originally thought about having a wrecking crane in the background but the camera angle was such that the boom from the crane was more of a distraction than a complementary element to the picture.  I tried different station locations and tried to think of things that would decrease the blank space above the main picture elements.  I settled on the water tower and played with different positions of the tower, the station and positions of the wreck – particularly the locomotive. 

   In the first attempts I thought too much of the engine was concealed.  After a couple of tries I finally found a derailed position that permitted one to see most of the front of the engine even with the caboose hanging in the position it was in.  I dismantled one gondola to scatter wheel sets and I removed the wheels and axles from one of the caboose trucks.

 Once I had the basic setup, I spent some time arranging figures – I took a number of test shots with figures in various locations trying to make the figures the focal point.  The main issue with the figures was that I wanted to have a hapless fireman trying to explain things to the division manager with the engineer just looking on.  Since I couldn't find any figures to match my needs for the fireman and the division super I kitbashed them. 

  The fireman with his palms turn outward in supplication is a heavily modified Plasticville figure.  In order to get the right pose I spent a lot of time running between my wife's full length mirror in the bedroom and my work bench. I would stand in front of the mirror, take the stance I wanted to create, stare at my reflection for awhile, run down to the basement, sculpt a little of the figure, add a little squadron green putty, etc. and repeat.  

  The division super is a heavily modified Bachmann figure.  The figure didn't scale out to 1:48 so I had to do some serious surgery with respect to sectioning his arms, legs and torso to "cut him down to size."

  The engineer and the older railroad employee looking at the wrecked engine are commercial cast figures I painted and the intrepid newshound with the camera is from the Arttista Gazette.

  As for the artistic license - the actual wreck only involved the destruction of the caboose - there was no derailment of the train that hit it.

TCQ2019

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Photos (1)
Robert S. Butler posted:

  I think the picture below would meet the criteria for "making anything cool", the only issue is that I took the picture and submitted it to the editor of the Train Collectors Quarterly back in January so, even though it is the cover of the just published July issue of the Quarterly, it might not meet the criteria for "lately". 

  As the opening credits of many movies state "the following is based on true events" - the key word is based - I did take some artistic license.

  The full story from Southern Railway Remembered is as follows:

"At the Alexandria Station the main line tracks separated into freight train tracks and passenger train tracks. The freight tracks, behind the northbound passenger waiting room, went into Potomac Yard. One morning a southbound train stopped right in front of the passenger sheds to wait for clearance. From the Alexandria station past Duke Street was a long curve, and incoming freight trains had a signal just before they got to the Duke Street Bridge. Because of the curve, northbound engineers had to depend on their firemen to 
let them know whether or not the signal was clear.

An RF&P freight was coming in, and when it got close to the curve the engineer asked his fireman how the signal was. The fireman replied," I can't see the signal for that caboose is blocking my view." The engineer threw the brakes into emergency-too late! He rammed the Southern caboose and stood it on end. The flagman saw him coming in time to get out of the way. He took off down Duke Street. Someone stopped him and asked why he was in such a hurry. He pointed back toward the bridge; the caboose was on fire, and flames were going high above the bridge. Fortunately, the Southern conductor had already started walking to the front of his train when the train struck so no one was injured. There were some hard feelings however. The conductor had bought a couple of hams in Monroe and left them on the caboose. By the time he got back to what was left of the caboose, his hams were cooked well done".

The diorama  

  For the diorama I first did a trial set up to get a sense of camera angles and the distance I would need to be away from the setup in order to guarantee everything was in focus.  I had originally thought about having a wrecking crane in the background but the camera angle was such that the boom from the crane was more of a distraction than a complementary element to the picture.  I tried different station locations and tried to think of things that would decrease the blank space above the main picture elements.  I settled on the water tower and played with different positions of the tower, the station and positions of the wreck – particularly the locomotive. 

   In the first attempts I thought too much of the engine was concealed.  After a couple of tries I finally found a derailed position that permitted one to see most of the front of the engine even with the caboose hanging in the position it was in.  I dismantled one gondola to scatter wheel sets and I removed the wheels and axles from one of the caboose trucks.

 Once I had the basic setup, I spent some time arranging figures – I took a number of test shots with figures in various locations trying to make the figures the focal point.  The main issue with the figures was that I wanted to have a hapless fireman trying to explain things to the division manager with the engineer just looking on.  Since I couldn't find any figures to match my needs for the fireman and the division super I kitbashed them. 

  The fireman with his palms turn outward in supplication is a heavily modified Plasticville figure.  In order to get the right pose I spent a lot of time running between my wife's full length mirror in the bedroom and my work bench. I would stand in front of the mirror, take the stance I wanted to create, stare at my reflection for awhile, run down to the basement, sculpt a little of the figure, add a little squadron green putty, etc. and repeat.  

  The division super is a heavily modified Bachmann figure.  The figure didn't scale out to 1:48 so I had to do some serious surgery with respect to sectioning his arms, legs and torso to "cut him down to size."

  The engineer and the older railroad employee looking at the wrecked engine are commercial cast figures I painted and the intrepid newshound with the camera is from the Arttista Gazette.

  As for the artistic license - the actual wreck only involved the destruction of the caboose - there was no derailment of the train that hit it.

TCQ2019

Makes me think of some of Ward's cover photo's.

Steve

Steve "Papa" Eastman

Yorba Linda, CA

Left Coast, Home of the lunatics

@Arne @sncf231e thanks for the feedback regarding the Hornby station! I like the one that was previously posted- Man was that cool! That said, for now at least, I’m gonna keep mine as is- although stairs in the future would be cool!

and thanks again, @Arne, for the info about the KB Bing double logo. Happen to have a solely Bing version similar to the first picture you posted.

image

Also is my first Bing car, in general, so that one has  got a special place with me. I do like the gold trim paint that KBN added , nice touch.

Attachments

Photos (1)
Robert S. Butler posted:

  I think the picture below would meet the criteria for "making anything cool", the only issue is that I took the picture and submitted it to the editor of the Train Collectors Quarterly back in January so, even though it is the cover of the just published July issue of the Quarterly, it might not meet the criteria for "lately". 

  As the opening credits of many movies state "the following is based on true events" - the key word is based - I did take some artistic license.

  The full story from Southern Railway Remembered is as follows:

"At the Alexandria Station the main line tracks separated into freight train tracks and passenger train tracks. The freight tracks, behind the northbound passenger waiting room, went into Potomac Yard. One morning a southbound train stopped right in front of the passenger sheds to wait for clearance. From the Alexandria station past Duke Street was a long curve, and incoming freight trains had a signal just before they got to the Duke Street Bridge. Because of the curve, northbound engineers had to depend on their firemen to 
let them know whether or not the signal was clear.

An RF&P freight was coming in, and when it got close to the curve the engineer asked his fireman how the signal was. The fireman replied," I can't see the signal for that caboose is blocking my view." The engineer threw the brakes into emergency-too late! He rammed the Southern caboose and stood it on end. The flagman saw him coming in time to get out of the way. He took off down Duke Street. Someone stopped him and asked why he was in such a hurry. He pointed back toward the bridge; the caboose was on fire, and flames were going high above the bridge. Fortunately, the Southern conductor had already started walking to the front of his train when the train struck so no one was injured. There were some hard feelings however. The conductor had bought a couple of hams in Monroe and left them on the caboose. By the time he got back to what was left of the caboose, his hams were cooked well done".

The diorama  

  For the diorama I first did a trial set up to get a sense of camera angles and the distance I would need to be away from the setup in order to guarantee everything was in focus.  I had originally thought about having a wrecking crane in the background but the camera angle was such that the boom from the crane was more of a distraction than a complementary element to the picture.  I tried different station locations and tried to think of things that would decrease the blank space above the main picture elements.  I settled on the water tower and played with different positions of the tower, the station and positions of the wreck – particularly the locomotive. 

   In the first attempts I thought too much of the engine was concealed.  After a couple of tries I finally found a derailed position that permitted one to see most of the front of the engine even with the caboose hanging in the position it was in.  I dismantled one gondola to scatter wheel sets and I removed the wheels and axles from one of the caboose trucks.

 Once I had the basic setup, I spent some time arranging figures – I took a number of test shots with figures in various locations trying to make the figures the focal point.  The main issue with the figures was that I wanted to have a hapless fireman trying to explain things to the division manager with the engineer just looking on.  Since I couldn't find any figures to match my needs for the fireman and the division super I kitbashed them. 

  The fireman with his palms turn outward in supplication is a heavily modified Plasticville figure.  In order to get the right pose I spent a lot of time running between my wife's full length mirror in the bedroom and my work bench. I would stand in front of the mirror, take the stance I wanted to create, stare at my reflection for awhile, run down to the basement, sculpt a little of the figure, add a little squadron green putty, etc. and repeat.  

  The division super is a heavily modified Bachmann figure.  The figure didn't scale out to 1:48 so I had to do some serious surgery with respect to sectioning his arms, legs and torso to "cut him down to size."

  The engineer and the older railroad employee looking at the wrecked engine are commercial cast figures I painted and the intrepid newshound with the camera is from the Arttista Gazette.

  As for the artistic license - the actual wreck only involved the destruction of the caboose - there was no derailment of the train that hit it.

TCQ2019

Sam, I saw your credit for the cover when my copy arrived earlier this week. Great work! 

George

With some time off for the holiday I've been able to complete assembly of my standard gauge Kingsbury single truck Birney. The project started with the purchase of a Kingsbury floor toy trolley that someone had already very carefully taken apart and removed the old friction mechanism from. Then I lucked into a loose McCoy mechanism at the local TTOS meet that came from a John Daniels GG1. I repaired the two failing wheels with cyanoacrylate (based on advice from repair expert Larry Pearson) and removed the plastic GG1 side frames.

Mating the trolley with the drive was accomplished by cutting several slots into the old trolley floor. I then added window glazing and a pair of bulbs, and the finishing touch was a pair of Ives pilots supplied by Bruce Peterson. I still need to strengthen up the floor a bit on one end- there's a big round hole where the old friction mechanism used to be and so the whole floor bends there.

This car joins the Kingsbury double-truck Birney motor/trailer set I posted about previously. Some photos and a video are attached.Kingsbury Single Truck Birney 382 2Kingsbury Single Truck Birney 382Kingsbury BirneysKingsbury Birney conversionKingsbury Birney conversion underside

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Photos (5)
Videos (1)
Kingsbury Birney IMG_8306

Picked this up at a flea market-antique mall. Not usually a steam locomotive guy but The front coupler had me intrigued, didn’t really know what I was getting...or getting myself into lol(spent the last 10 hours working on it). Unfortunately no tender but this dude it’s pretty cool

 

15DF43C9-8339-4C82-AFA0-C2B070BA715617AFC974-5246-4B61-96BE-19DE31EB75C8

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Photos (2)
StevefromPA posted:

Picked this up at a flea market-antique mall. Not usually a steam locomotive guy but The front coupler had me intrigued, didn’t really know what I was getting...or getting myself into lol(spent the last 10 hours working on it). Unfortunately no tender but this dude it’s pretty cool

 

15DF43C9-8339-4C82-AFA0-C2B070BA715617AFC974-5246-4B61-96BE-19DE31EB75C8

Steve, you have a nice example of a prewar 203. It has a shorter boiler than the 227-series of switchers and comes with a shorter tender, with Lionel Lines instead of Pennsylvania on it. You should have a prewar box coupler on it. 

Tom

 

Haha @Steamer I’ll have to be on the look out, just make sure to knock

@MNCW thank you. I wish I had the tender after reading about this guy it seems to be a really cool loco to run with the tender that can have a bell or a light. I’d assume those tenders are probably hard to come by without the switcher attached to it. But gotta get that guy working first! 

StevefromPA posted:

Picked this up at a flea market-antique mall. Not usually a steam locomotive guy but The front coupler had me intrigued, didn’t really know what I was getting...or getting myself into lol(spent the last 10 hours working on it). Unfortunately no tender but this dude it’s pretty cool

 

15DF43C9-8339-4C82-AFA0-C2B070BA715617AFC974-5246-4B61-96BE-19DE31EB75C8

Steve,

Very, very nice!  I wish we had flea markets and antique malls here in Arkansas like the ones you obviously have in PA.  Unfortunately, we don't.  There's lots of outdoors and nature in the "Natural State" but not many toy trains like back on the East Coast.

Bob Nelson

StevefromPA posted:

Picked this up at a flea market-antique mall. Not usually a steam locomotive guy but The front coupler had me intrigued, didn’t really know what I was getting...or getting myself into lol(spent the last 10 hours working on it). Unfortunately no tender but this dude it’s pretty cool

 

15DF43C9-8339-4C82-AFA0-C2B070BA7156continu

I've had one of these since I was a boy. One of the main rods remains 'repaired', ie spliced, as we could not find a part back then. Mine has the bell tender (another repair on the bimetal wire thing that cycles the bell. Runs like a little champ. Since I was doing postwar back then, tender trucks got swapped out for postwar coupler types.

These guys seem to be pretty rare, I suspect more of the scale versions were made than these. Lionel continued with the 4 wheel version after the war (1656, 1615 etc), but this one is the real deal .

Jim

Jim Waterman

Lee Lines Limited

Custom Built Standard Gauge

 

My Ives 3250 has been giving me trouble for awhile now and finally kind of “conked out”. Don’t think the repairs should be that much- before she totally wouldn’t run she would require me to give her a little push first.

regardless, found a good deal on that auction website for an Ives 3252. Besides the light not working, runs like a champ and I like the brass plates. The green color also fits in better with My consist. Also has a reverse Lever that functions fine.

image

At the end of the day, can always count on the Lionel 254e though!

image

Also, update on the prewar 203 B6 switcher- cleaned the e-unit, took out the old wires and soldered in new ones- still no dice. Taking it to my repair guy on Tuesday. After that I’m gonna decide if I wanna keep it or sell it.

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Jim Waterman posted:
StevefromPA posted:

Picked this up at a flea market-antique mall. Not usually a steam locomotive guy but The front coupler had me intrigued, didn’t really know what I was getting...or getting myself into lol(spent the last 10 hours working on it). Unfortunately no tender but this dude it’s pretty cool

 

15DF43C9-8339-4C82-AFA0-C2B070BA7156continu

I've had one of these since I was a boy. One of the main rods remains 'repaired', ie spliced, as we could not find a part back then. Mine has the bell tender (another repair on the bimetal wire thing that cycles the bell. Runs like a little champ. Since I was doing postwar back then, tender trucks got swapped out for postwar coupler types.

These guys seem to be pretty rare, I suspect more of the scale versions were made than these. Lionel continued with the 4 wheel version after the war (1656, 1615 etc), but this one is the real deal .

Jim

Awesome story, @Jim Waterman ! Thank you for sharing. The responses to my purchase of this 203 switcher, I.e. members like you saying “this one is the real deal” makes me teeter closer to the edge of keeping it. I have a pre-war she’ll tender from my grandpop that, due to issues with the solonoid, I had the one coupler replaced so it’d be a good transition piece. Again, thanks for sharing, I hope I get to see my B6 run like a champ justlike you have gotten to see yours!

Due to physical limitation I broke down and replaced my Toyota Sienna train hauler with a Dodge. I was stunned to find the rear opening of the Dodge to be a bit over 4” narrower. My heavy duty Milwaukee hand truck would not fit in sideways. A bit of sawing and a few new holes solved the problem.

Steve

CDE20EA4-EFC6-45C0-AC03-07CCD8801E2E8B32F7D8-53E8-453D-81D8-43312276C7FCA8F551C7-02B3-4CF4-A5B7-4920BA88F80E

Steve "Papa" Eastman

Yorba Linda, CA

Left Coast, Home of the lunatics

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Steamer posted:

not buying it Sport...fool me once shame on you...fool me twice shame on me. (Good to see you in a Mopar)

My only other Mopar was a 1973 B300 cargo van we converted to a camper. Saw most of the western national parks and Vancouver in it.

Steve

Steve "Papa" Eastman

Yorba Linda, CA

Left Coast, Home of the lunatics

Acquired some pieces recently. Maker unknown for all but the pamphlet/corcular so any help is appreciated !

first this French made passenger “station”(more like a shed or waiting area). I know it’s French, or am 95% certain, as it advertises the Chemins de Fer de L’Etat- a predecessor RR to the SNCF.

image

also picked up this piece of an old crossing gate. Like the “station” above, it’s smaller than my other pre-war o Tinplate acccessories.

image

final part of the lot is what appears to be part of a switch of track tripper

image

Then, picked up this 1919 repro Lionel circular. Pretty cool and somewhat informative about basics in prewar Lionel engines. Then after that is an unknown lamp that I bought with a Lionel #35 post war. No marks to identify a maker:

imageimageimage

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Steve, your french little station is a JEP model, it has been produced during the thirties, the switch is BING. The crossing gate is certainly a french model from FV and is older than the station, but a picture of the top would be usefull to be sure.

All in all nice pieces, 

Very best, Daniel

Thanks @FRENCHTRAINS ! And thank you for confirming its a station, lol. I really like it- also my first piece of JEP!! I’ve never heard of “FV”, wish the crossing was whole- I like the detail of the base and fence better than the Ives 215( or 216 i don’t recall) crossings.

Here’s a picture of the top and underneath where there are 2 open tubes(opposite the gate portion) that would connect to the missing half, I assume

imageimage

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StevefromPA posted:

Thanks @FRENCHTRAINS ! And thank you for confirming its a station, lol. I really like it- also my first piece of JEP!! I’ve never heard of “FV”, wish the crossing was whole- I like the detail of the base and fence better than the Ives 215( or 216 i don’t recall) crossings.

Here’s a picture of the top and underneath where there are 2 open tubes(opposite the gate portion) that would connect to the missing half, I assume

imageimage

That's better with your pictures. It is not FV, certainly BING with the two connecting parts. They both produced very similar crossing gates. 

The JEP station is a small Halte as you could find on secondary railways, Station is of course more prestigious.

I hope you will find some more JEP pieces, they display very well, here are some other models from the same time period.

IMG_9050

Daniel

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Fatman posted:

Got a couple of well loved Hornby No.2 locos coming to live with me

They show a lot of the last 80+ years lol , but they will be loved ( and maybe cleaned and oiled a tad )

 

Good lookin’ @Fatman  !! I bid on a King George V, until I realized it wasn’t a George V, a couple of weeks ago and both of these beat the pants of that one. Both locos seem to be in great shape too-  nice finds!

jhz563 posted:

I had never seen that 1919 circular before - thank you for sharing!  Even as a reproduction, what a fascinating bit of history!

Absolutely- happy to help! Idk if everyone can read the part that says “an apology”( I barely can right now- wearing sunglasses over my glasses b/c something wrong with my eye) anyway,, the part that says “An apology” goes on to explain how sorry JLC was that the actual catalog didn’t come and how there  was nothing he could do as all the print shops in the city had gone one strike.

Also, for the first time, I read Lionel’s shots at Ives’ cast iron with the physical paper in my hand, and Lione bragging about them being the first ones with a 4 screw assembly. The sections on standard and o gauge schematics, though, have proven most helpful.

FRENCHTRAINS posted:
StevefromPA posted:

Thanks @FRENCHTRAINS ! And thank you for confirming its a station, lol. I really like it- also my first piece of JEP!! I’ve never heard of “FV”, wish the crossing was whole- I like the detail of the base and fence better than the Ives 215( or 216 i don’t recall) crossings.

Here’s a picture of the top and underneath where there are 2 open tubes(opposite the gate portion) that would connect to the missing half, I assume

imageimage

That's better with your pictures. It is not FV, certainly BING with the two connecting parts. They both produced very similar crossing gates. 

The JEP station is a small Halte as you could find on secondary railways, Station is of course more prestigious.

I hope you will find some more JEP pieces, they display very well, here are some other models from the same time period.

IMG_9050

Daniel

Daniel,

Thanks for your invaluable insight! It’s much, much appreciated! I’ve seen some of those JEP pieces online before. They made some more unique accessories and you trains than the German brands I love to operate and collect- but that’s all due to geography etc... 

Thank you, again for your help.

sincerely,

steve

I recently added these to my collection.

A very early Ives #190 standard gauge tank car. These were formerly 1 gauge cars and when Ives entered the standard gauge field in 1921 they used the same tank car. It is notable for the suspended air tank, ratchet on the brake wheel (wheel missing), long ladders, and narrow 1 gauge size couplers. The couplers on this example were changed to the wider type. In 1923 Ives changed the design to a tank on full frame style.

Next is a Bing 1 gauge beer car circa 20's-30's. 

French Hornby  O gauge Orient Express passenger cars. Only 2 cars are pictured, but I actually acquired 4. I have been trying to find these cars for some time to go behind my NORD 4-4-2. Now I need to find replacement wheel sets for the cars as zinc pest has attacked the original wheels.

Eric

TCA, LCCA, Ives Train Society

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Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

Due to physical limitation I broke down and replaced my Toyota Sienna train hauler with a Dodge. I was stunned to find the rear opening of the Dodge to be a bit over 4” narrower. My heavy duty Milwaukee hand truck would not fit in sideways. A bit of sawing and a few new holes solved the problem.

Steve

CDE20EA4-EFC6-45C0-AC03-07CCD8801E2E8B32F7D8-53E8-453D-81D8-43312276C7FCA8F551C7-02B3-4CF4-A5B7-4920BA88F80E

The Dodge now feels like it’s mine.

Steve

99F20340-F92C-4313-A672-E8D7180D1F34

Steve "Papa" Eastman

Yorba Linda, CA

Left Coast, Home of the lunatics

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chug posted:

I recently added these to my collection.

A very early Ives #190 standard gauge tank car. These were formerly 1 gauge cars and when Ives entered the standard gauge field in 1921 they used the same tank car. It is notable for the suspended air tank, ratchet on the brake wheel (wheel missing), long ladders, and narrow 1 gauge size couplers. The couplers on this example were changed to the wider type. In 1923 Ives changed the design to a tank on full frame style.

Next is a Bing 1 gauge beer car circa 20's-30's. 

French Hornby  O gauge Orient Express passenger cars. Only 2 cars are pictured, but I actually acquired 4. I have been trying to find these cars for some time to go behind my NORD 4-4-2. Now I need to find replacement wheel sets for the cars as zinc pest has attacked the original wheels.

Eric

TCA, LCCA, Ives Train Society

@chug goodness gracious man, those are absolute beauts and I love that you picked up 2 different gauged cars! having a tough time picking out a favorite from your pick-ups. I love Ives & Bing equally and, should next week’s meet go well, Hornby will move up but Ives & Bing are just 2 brands I’ve come to love. Speaking of love,  I love Passenger cars, plus yours are from the famous Orient Express, so bump up there! The Ives tank with Texas oil on it is really neat too, but the Bing Beer car’s detail is great.

Why pick a favorite? Love’em all! Enjoy!

StevefromPA posted:
chug posted:

 

French Hornby  O gauge Orient Express passenger cars. Only 2 cars are pictured, but I actually acquired 4. I have been trying to find these cars for some time to go behind my NORD 4-4-2. Now I need to find replacement wheel sets for the cars as zinc pest has attacked the original wheels.

Eric

TCA, LCCA, Ives Train Society

Speaking of love,  I love Passenger cars, plus yours are from the famous Orient Express, so bump up there! 

The Hornby blue CIWL restaurant and sleeper car and the matching Nord 4-4-2 were called the "Riviera Blue Train" by Hornby. This train ("Le Train Bleu" in French) was at least as famous as the Oriënt Express in the thirties and brought rich English people for their holidays from Paris to the Cote d'Azur.  It was the first train to have the luxurious type LX sleeping car which only held 10 passengers and this train was  more luxurious then the Oriënt Express.

Regards

Fred

Regarding my recent finds, thanks to all for your kind complements! Fred you are of course correct. My mistake calling the Hornby coaches Orient Express. I should have referenced my Hornby book. I am still seeking a source for replacement wheel sets and I've had no luck searching the web. Surely someone must produce these. Any help appreciated.

I intend to sell 2 of the Blue Train cars, a sleeper, and a dining car. If interested contact me using the email address in my profile. I will be listing these on the Buy/Sell in the near future.

Eric

TCA, LCCA, Ives Train Society

 

 

 

 

 

couple few things I picked up this week. 

Haji monorail coach

haji monorail express coach

Atlas 102 house, a little bigger than the H&H houses but has separate windows and shutters. 

atlas 102 house

Dorfan #320 tunnel. Not the best example but you don't see them very often. 

320 tunnel won

Jim O'C

Upstate NY/So VT

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A Dorfan standard gauge saga. At a TTOS meet last year I purchased a Dorfan 3920 locomotive that had a very nice restored shell mated together with a McCoy motor. To accommodate the McCoy motor all of the original mounting bosses inside the shell (where the gears and motor elements once attached) had been ground off. As noted the shell was as nice as they come for Dorfan, but unfortunately it had been repainted in an awful shade of tan.It ran well but looked pretty drab.

I decided to repaint it and started off with red in mind. I prepped the existing paint with ultra fine steel wool and then sprayed it with a nice Flyer red from the Collector's Color paint line. Unfortunately that paint (literally) never dried. I eventually baked it which caused it to start drying, but it also made it bubble. In the end I concluded that the tan paint that I painted over was incompatible with the new lacquer-based paint.

After ignoring it for a while, I decided to do it over in black (also from Collector Colors and no problems drying), sanding down the red and then applying a primer coat. Along the way I opted to paint the doors in the dark red, based on the Ives 3240 paint scheme which is one of my favorites.

In the end I'm quite happy with it, I don't think Dorfan ever offered the 3920 in black, but I like it. And with the McCoy motor it has plenty of pulling power. I may also replace the very unusual stanchions at the four corners- these should have been flag holders, but whomever rebuilt it before me put some unusual turned brass pieces in there instead.

Dorfan 3920 repaint 1Dorfan 3920 repaint 2Dorfan 3920 repaint 3Dorfan 3920 repaint 4Dorfan 3920 repaint 5Dorfan 3920 repaint motorIMG_7621

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