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Still think it best to return the J if your not happy. Too much money spent(in my opinion) to wait for another run that may never happen. OR...…Shame Lionel into reimbursing you for the repaint. As I read this post, there is talk of enough people calling Lionel and politely letting them know their dissatisfaction. I think Lionel would get the message better if enough dissatisfied customers returned the J to where they bought it from. For all we know the vast majority of buyers of this loco are completely happy with the wrong color stripe. And don't forget about the collector that has never and probably never will open the box to even look at it. The unhappy number of people on this forum is probably a very small percentage of the total J's sold. The majority may be pleased.  I send back items when not as expected. I am sure your dealer wants you happy.

BTW.....Can anyone comment on the repaint. I am wondering about the decal film. Is it visible?

I didn't buy this engine, yet I did buy the custom Hudson from @MrMuffin'sTrains.  I saw the offer to weather the engine but I passed on it.  I could not get my head around having a weathered engine and then no weathered cars.  I know - John get some cars weathered too, then it would be a question of which cars.  

I think it's great that Steve and Harry came up with a easy option to rectify this.  Well done.

John 

I almost purchased one & tried to convince myself the stripes wouldn't bother me, decided on a used Legacy 612 (no whistle steam though), at a reasonable price. Couldn't be happier.

When I was considering the purchase I gave thought to a light over spray of the stripe with a thinned variation of the brown, creating a transparent overlay. Besides the stripe being too orange, the gold (which isn't metallic) is too yellow. The same color would also tint the stripe & lettering & eliminate the need to mask the area twice. You would also retain that crisp original factory application with the masking allowing a hairline overlap into the black probably not even noticeable. This would need to be done with an airbrush to control the flow & could be done in light passes until satisfactory. I think also a little light weathering would help pull this off.

I understand that this is a point of no return process & once started, too late if you're not happy. Acrylic paint could probably be removed without damage if done very soon after. The main problem with acrylic is if thinned too much will bead up. 

For those interested in this option, if so inclined, you could create a test on a dummy subject but that would involve recreating a similar sample.

For those who have printed their own decals at home, there is one other test that would be easily reversible using a home ink jet printer. You wouldn't even need to create a perfect decal, just print  a brown strip onto clear decal paper using your favorite software program, spray with a few clear coats to avoid the color running. Once the clear coat has dried, cut out a strip to cover the factory stripe & apply the decal as you normally would on any model. The decal would essentially be transparent blending with the color underneath. If you don't like the decal result, place a piece of masking tape over it and remove. Then call Harry or Lionel.

I realize my suggestions will only interest a few at best, but if you have the resources on hand, might be worth a try. Cost will be nearly nothing if successful, not to mention you won't need to ship it anywhere.

One last note, I am not trying to take away any income from Harry, his work is awesome & worth the cost.

Looking forward to a reply or result from those looking for an adventure.

Joe

 

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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