Great Northern railway

PRR Q-2 4-4-6-4 decoder install.

The T-1 4-4-4-4 is having trouble pulling the 14 car passenger cars up grade so I'm hoping the extra driver will 'do the job'.  If not, I can double head them.  A pretty old engine: made by Westside in 1970.

LED and wire hole prep.

This engine was already painted when I bought it so care must be done using new or near new drill bits to insure clean holes without snagging the metal.  

The engine runs fine with the open frame motor so that is staying.  The two brushes are already independent of ground so the motor  is 'good to go'.

I normally drill out the back of the headlight but this head light is at an unusual spot. When the headlight is on the front of the boiler I like to run the wires in the front of the boiler for ease of maintenance.  In this case I drill the hole for the wires at about a 45 degree angle downward. 

With the angle hole, it came out on the boiler front plate. 

The hole is at the bottom of the headlight recess. 

This was fun.  Wasn't sure if these marker lights were large enough to house some 0402 LED's.  I used about a #64 drill bit and the LED's just fit.  I use scalecoat engine black to touch up surfaces as it dries dull. 

A hole drilled into the boiler behind the marker light to route the wires.

Dry fit: tons of room!

Holes needed to be drilled in the tender bottom for the speaker. 

Had to make a hole under the tender deck plate to route the decoder wires.  Very tight area so multiple holes drilled and then cleaned up with a file. 

Headlight and marker lights drilled out.  The marker lights were convex so a file was used to create a flat spot so the drill bit would not wonder off center.  

NOTE: if anyone knows what color these three marker lights are suppose to be, please post.

I checked out BLI's Q-2 and they have the center white and the two outer lights as red.  Their engine doesn't have the headlight mounted on top so that will also be white. 

With a wide base, a hole was drilled at an angle for the tender headlight so the wire will not be exposed.  I usually have to drill a hole through the back of the headlight and then another into the tender deck to route the wires: Not that this is bad as it just looks like electrical cable (which it is). 

PRR Q-2 4-4-6-4.

LED install:

Headlight install.

Marker lights were shorting against the metal marker cases so a toothpick was used to move them and then apply canopy glue to hold them in position. 

Had the same problem with one of the white lights shorting.  Also put a light in the 'doghouse'.  Getting late, will leave the glue harden overnight and then do the running board lights.  Trying to do to many at once and the other LED's can be accidentally moved (and short). 

New delivery.

The IHC 4 NYC passenger cars arrived.

The usual improvement.  New wheel sets and body mount kadees. 

Finally, I ran out of the old #5's and used the new whisker couplers.  The coupler pockets are smaller, which is good for when I mount them on the heavy weights as it will save me doing the 'mods'.  Also, they move laterally better than with the old brass centering mechanism.  

I had the observation coupler a little too far back and was binding on one curve so I redrilled/tapped one hole forward.  A little wider than the others but good enough. 

The observation car was also leaning to one side.  Didn't see anything unusual but there is a donut type ring on the top of the truck where it mates with the bolster which makes for very little side support.  I used a chisel blade to remove it and all seems better now. 

The NYC train is now a respectable 10 cars.  One of the new cars is a light gray: not sure if the manufacturer made a mistake or NYC actually had cars that color.  I didn't noticed it when I purchased the cars. 

PS: just looked at the original purchase pictures on ebay and can't tell that it's a lighter color but looking at the end of the box description, it says: NYC (mercury): I'm guessing NYC had light colored cars and called them mercury.  Like most railroads, I'm sure they mixed them on a train to meet the demands of the how many cars were needed and what was available, including heavy weights with streamlined cars. 

Video of testing the cars.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

PRR Q-2 4-4-6-4 decoder install.

Since this is one of the more complicated installs due to all the LED's being used, below is a detailed description of the install.

I think this engine sets the record for LED's that I've ever installed:

Engine:

headlight: 1

marker lights: 2

running board lights: 4

cab light: 1

fire box glow: 1

Tender:

Headlights: 2

marker lights: 2

doghouse light: 1

Total: 14

Someone commented that the marker lights are too bright so I've installed a 6K resistor in series with the existing resistor that comes with each LED that I use.

Before:

After:

The resistors were obtained from digikey.  Each LED comes with a resistor but all but one is needed when multiple lights of the same color are being used, ie: marker lights: both green LED red wires connected to one resistor.  Each color LED has a different resistor size so the original needs to be kept as this reduces the 12-15 volts down to 3 volts (or so) to light the LED's without burning them out. 

The new resistor is on the right and connects to the red wire on the LED side and the blue wire on the decoder side.

My preferred method of making connectors.  As one can see, an 8 pin connector is less than a 1/2" in width.  Of course, if you don't plan on lighting up your engines like a Christmas tree but only want the basics, a connector with a lot fewer pins will suffice.  Also, if you don't want to control all the lights with function keys but still want lots of LEDs, again, one doesn't need 8 pin connectors. 

My wiring schematic to route all wires from the decoder to engine and tender along with what function key controls that LED/S.

Decoderpro used to change address and checks that no wiring mistakes are made. 

Long address used.

After info saved to decoder and decoderpro, it lists the engine and pertinent data.  In this case the PRR Q-2 is 7th from the bottom.

Next, I connect the engine, via alligator clips, to the mainline and make sure sound and all light functions are working and of course, forward is actually forward: in this case I had to reverse the wires.

There are many excellent speakers on the marker but I'm partial to PFM's speakers.  They were made 30-40 years ago but I have a sufficient supply to get a lot of engines completed.  PFM speakers have excellent base qualities, which I want for my steam engines.  PFM speakers require a few more electronics that the 'normal' speaker: ie two capacitors and a choke. 

One rat's nest but, fortunately, the electrons always know where to go!

Tender lights working properly.

The doghouse light is connected to the same wire as the cab light.   A 6K resistor was also added for the tender marker lights. 

After the decoder has been tested for motor and tender lights, next step is to route all the engine LED wires and make a connector from boiler to frame.  Tape is used to hold wires 'in place' while glue dries.  It's important to check that there are no shorts to the boiler frame and LED wires via a voltmeter. Failure to do this will result in 'blowing' an LED, which means a lot of extra work removing the old LED and installing a new one. 

Engine headlight.  Canopy glue is used to secure the LED to the light housing but white glue is used to secure all wires going through other holes in boiler and tender. 

Interesting history of the NYC video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_w3v94uQDe8

As Johnny used to say: I didn't know that.

There's a NYC museum in Elkhart, Indiana which isn't far from me as I have a RC plane flyin every summer at Goshen (which is about 30 miles away):

https://www.elkhartindiana.org/department/?fDD=54-0

PRR Cab ride from Columbus to Cincinnati and return video:

The 'comments' list all the points of interest.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVbXFSejg4c

PRR Q-2 4-4-6-4 decoder install (cont)

Boiler LED's.

We need to turn this rat's nest into a something a little more 'neater'!  There's 8 LED's that need wiring. 

I use lots of this stuff: 1/16" diameter used to protect the wires.  Usually I get it at RC plane and train shows.   I get several different sizes.

The marker lights were first with some heat shrink over all 4 sets of wires.  

After routing them through the boiler, the heat shrink was taped to the boiler and the resistor along with the added 6K resistor was soldered to the red wire and the blue wire was added which will, eventually, go to the 4 pin connector.  Markers being green, the 2 black wires are soldered to a green wire.  I don't heat shrink the tubing, only at solder points. 

The 4 running board lights were next.  Same procedure, heat shrink over the wires, solder one resistor for all and solder leads to them (blue and pink) for these LED's.

Headlight was next and I connect the cab light to the headlight with blue and white (standard NMRA).

A test each time a set of LED's is completed. 

All red wires connected via one blue wire and the rest are to each respective set of LED's which is function controlled: Green wire for markers, white for headlight/cab and pink for running lights.  Lots of short pieces of heat shrink to protect and organize wires.   A very fine tip soldering iron is needed for soldering the wires to the connector and, at least for me, a set of optivisors!  Tinning the wires first makes it easier to attach them to the connector.  Very little solder is needed for this fine work: like oil, too much is bad.  

Final testing on the mainline track.

The motor is narrow so the wires were put along the side of the fire box.

4 pin connector for future PM.

Tools of the trade: a soldering station and a heat gun for the heat shrink tubing.  I used to use the soldering tip on the heat shrink tubing but found it contaminates the soldering point and makes it difficult to get good solder joints. 

These are mandatory for any close up, fine detail work that I do. 

The soldering tips eventually wear out as this one is about to break off. 

NEXT: adding lots of lead.

Noticed in the previous picture that the markers were not on.  Forgot to press the F1 function; much better.

New delivery.

Always good when you get 3 packages in a day

Unbelievable!

Got an email for these Bachmann PRR GG-1 for 89 bucks with DCC/sound, brand new.  I don't know how they can sell them that cheap.  I pay more for my steam decoders than that.  I couldn't pass that price up since they are electrics (and not diesels)  and I can use them to assist (if needed) the steam pulling the 14 car passenger train up grade plus I  can use them on the Atlantic Coast Line passenger train.  For that price, I got two.  I've never purchased Bachmann in the past so I googled videos on the GG-1's and it was favorable. 

Good packaging with that 'clam shell' type form. 

Very nice paint; clean, sharp lines as I would have trouble getting 5 paint strips looking that good!

Dialed in address 03 and they are very quiet (electrics: makes sense).  Horn is nice but the bell sounds clunky.  They are pretty heavy so they should pull well.   Like I said: unbelievable. 

The other 8 Atlantic Coast Line heavy weight passenger cars arrived complementing the present 7 will make a nice passenger train.  New intermountain wheel sets and body mount Kadees will be done (PRR Q-2 lead weighting will be 'on hold'). 

Need some 'domes' for the UP passenger train.  Ditto on wheels, couplers. 

IHC Atlantic Coast Line passenger car mods.

Besides new intermountain wheels and body mount Kadees, IHC had hand rails and steps in each box.  

A little oversize but adds a nice touch, especially for cars made 40 years ago.  Surprised all the holes were pre-drilled and all parts fit, exactly, in the holes.  Some plastic weld worked most of the time.  Didn't want any large drops on the parts to prevent the liquid cement from spreading  across the surface.  

Had a few that had molded on handrails: must be later production to save on cost. 

The baggage cars, with the 3 axle trucks required the coupler pockets to be a lot farther past the end of the car than I wanted.   I put all 36" wheels in the trucks but ran out for the last few cars so used 33": found they roll a lot better than the 36" so 33" were put in all the cars.  Couldn't find what was causing the drag but probably the brake shoe area. 

Normal gap between cars.

Baggage car gaps for truck clearance.  Had to run the cars twice on the mainline to fix the 2-3 derailments. 

Thought I'd take a picture with the pantographs contacting the cantenary.   The new Bachmann engine ran fine and had no trouble pulling 15 cars on the mainline: That 89 bucks was a good investment!  A good engine to test cars: runs a lot faster than my slow steam engines.  Kind of nice to just run an engine that is quiet! 

videos of the new GG-1 and ACL cars:

Took 14 hours for youtube to, finally, get time to upload them.

Chumstick canyon:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

Tye:

The metal wheels sound good.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

PRR Q-2 4-4-6-4 decoder install (cont)

Adding weight to engine and testing.

This engine didn't have the 'normal' rod of lead weight so I made one rolling up 1/16" thick lead sheeting.

From front of boiler to opening was about 2.5" and was about 9.5" long.  There already was a large hole in the boiler so I drilled a hole in the lead and secured the rolled up lead to the boiler. 

The lead sheeting comes in 12" widths and you buy how much length that you want.   It works like plastic sheeting, score it a few times and it will 'snap' off.   Scissors also cuts the lead very easily though it deforms one side but easy to flatten out with a piece of wood against the concrete floor.   Either wear latex gloves or wash hands immediately after finish handling the lead. 

A small vise helps me start the bending of the sheeting into a roll.

The bottom, open end of the boiler, where the universals and gear boxes are normally located, a lead piece has to be open on one side.  A piece of lead is rounded to closely match the boiler diameter. 

Once in the proper location, the open end is spread apart to conform to the boiler's interior.  I can, usually, get 2-3 pieces in this area. 

Weight of boiler:

Before: 20.5 oz.

After: 33.85 oz.

Surprised how heavy the frame and gear was weighing in at 12.35 oz. 

Time to test.

Made some labels for each train so, once out on the mainline, when returning, will know which track for that train, since each one is different lengths as is each siding. 

Those nice scale size couplers look good but were not functional for all cars.  Under stress and pulling 14 passenger cars, some of the plastic scale couplers have vertical play in the coupler pocket, plus the plastic arm can bend, and the cars uncoupled.  Replaced them with the metal Kadee's.

I thought a 10 coupled driver set would pull all 14 passenger cars but nada.  Glad I got those GG-1's.  They work perfectly with this engine.  Can use the same speed for both and, with the electric quiet, there's no competition with steam sounds.  The Digitrax controller has two knobs to control two trains so control is easy.  

Had to stick a toothpick into the doghouse window and push the interior light to the ceiling as it looked more like a headlight from a distance (as in 2 pictures above this one).

Unusual disassembly of frame and boiler as both sides had reverse linkage rods that had to be removed via screws to separate the boiler and frame. 

Videos:

All seem to be working.

Leaving Seattle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

At Marias Pass:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

At Chumstick Canyon trestle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

From 'unbelievable' to 'lucky'.

Went to a local train show that I've never been to, before, figuring I wouldn't find anything but good to get out of the house once in awhile. 

Got to the show and it wasn't too big with about 25 venders.

One layout was setup.

I found a ground throw for  a buck: figure that would be my total purchase.

Being in Cincinnati area the last passenger train I wanted was an N&W train so I reserved a 5 car set which was to be release around the end of this year.  The set is made by MTH which they, also, made several years ago.  I'm checking the last row and see the set that I want but the seller is only selling the set with the engine.  I didn't need the engine so I was about to 'keep walking' but looked at the total price of only 500 bucks.  The MTH cars are 'top of the line' cars and my reserved cars, with shipping was close to $400.  The extra car is $75 and the engine that is presently out is $500 so this was a 'no brainer'.  For an extra $100 more than I would had to pay for the 5 car reserved set, I got an extra car plus the engine.  I asked the owner how much run time on them and he said none.  When you see a good deal, one doesn't insult them by asking for less so I, immediately, paid him the 5 C notes. 

All nicely packaged.

Nicely detailed under carriages: not sure why we like this as I can't see that stuff, anyway, when the cars are on the track!

All interiors and lights and observation car has drum head and markers.

I bought this engine a few years ago, got the difficult to find decals for it and was, and still am, going to paint it and install a decoder in it. 

The MTH engine.  Very heavy and I'm guessing the shell is cast metal (for some reason, I didn't want to scratch the paint and find out!).

The tender also must be cast as it is, also, very heavy.

Didn't see any wire connectors between the tender and engine and thought, I'm sure this is DCC but no wires!  Reading the manual (yeah, I actually did that) it says there is a two contact on the tender pin where the decoder transfers all info via these two contacts: pretty cool (a lot better than my 8 pin connector!).  It also has smoke.

Besides headlight, also market lights have LED's.

One set of drivers has rubber tires so it will pull well. 

Lighted cab with interior and crew. 

More passenger cars and new decoder install and engine testing videos:

PRR Q-2 4-4-6-4 and GG-1 passenger train  testing.

At Chumstick canyon trestle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

At Tye:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

PRR GG-1 with ACL passenger cars:

Chumstick canyon trestle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

at Seattle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

Looks like you made a good deal on the N&W.  The trains all look great!

Thanks, Mark.

========

Boiler top detail.

Realistic coal load.

Tender hatch removable to access smoke (on/off) plus volume.  Same options also via function keys. 

N&W J 4-8-4 and passenger car testing videos:

I use cinnamon and candy cane for smoke fluid.

Leaving Seattle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

At Skykomish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

At Hillyard:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

At Basin tunnel:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

N&W J 4-8-4:

Comparing the Sunset model J made in 1983 versus MTH model made in 2019.  Since all piping is internal (under sheet boiler jacket), can't compare that aspect. 

Both have operating hatches.

More test videos:

N&W J:

at Chumstick canyon trestle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

NYC Niagara 4-8-4:

At Chumstick canyon trestle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

at Skykomish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

NMRA MCR Div 7 layout pictures.

After our meeting and guest speaker's presentation, we visited two local layouts.

Eastern logger.

Yes, those are all, individual, boards!

PRR:

Installing LED's in an IHC passenger car (drum heads).

Besides looking cool, lighting is needed in the last car of each passenger set so the LCC signalling system knows when the last car has left each block. 

An IHC (alias AHM, Rivarossi) passenger car is used in this install.  Six tabs and a flat screwdriver used to push the tabs inwards so the top is removable. 

Some left over 28 gauge wire from 'catenary install days' was used to make contact with the truck wheels.

Number 80 brass screws used to secure wire contacts to trucks. 

LED's from lights4models used to illuminate drum head.  These already have a resistor and electronics 'built in' so no worries about direction on connecting the wires and flicker free.

https://lights4models.com/

I find wrapping the wire around the axle 3 times gives excellent electrical conductivity.  A 'Z' is put in the wire to relieve any pressure on the wheel set.  I'm using intermountain wheel sets. 

One truck assembly.  A hole was drilled/tapped for the #80 screw which secures both contact wires.

Some decoder #30 wire used to route 'juice' to the interior. 

The LED's were taped to the drum head and marker light.  This install takes very little time to accomplish. 

Installing lights and people in a Walther's passenger car:

Unlike the IHC cars, the top of the sides must be moved outwards to remove the top.  No metal objects should be used, unless you want to scratch the paint!  I used some plastic tools (green tool)  for opening cell phones plus toothpicks to hold the sides out until all tabs are released. 

Small tabs along the plastic sides.

The usual wire contacts made for the axles.  The Walther's trucks have plastic axles so I had to replace them with Intermountain wheel sets.  This version of the Walther's passenger car is on the 'low end' so no metal tabs are located along the sides of the trucks to transmit current to the interior metal plate so wires needed to be strung to the interior.   Also, if you have the 'hi end' trucks, the homemade wire contacts are not needed.

Routed the black wire along the center frame until I could get to the center of the interior. 

Routed wires up through areas where they will not be seen when viewed from the outside. 

I used cheap China people: viewed from the outside, detailed people are not needed.  Clear window caulk was used to secure the people to the chairs.  Since the clear plastic slides along the inside face of the car, make sure all people are located away from the outside walls. 

5 meters of LED's for about 6 bucks.

Cut off what length you need and attach some wires.  The paper backing is removed revealing contact cement to easily attach to the roof.  The last LED was folded over to shine into the rear light on the roof.

A resistor was needed so the passengers wouldn't get a 'sun tan'!

Ta da!  

Roof light.

More light and people installed in passenger cars.

Milwaukee Hiawatha lounge observation passenger car by Walthers.

This car took awhile to figure out how to access.

Initially, I thought the bottom came off since there must be a dozen screws on the underside.  Care must be taken not to force anything as the bottom was not releasing from the top. 

I then used the green 'case opening' tool on the roof and it revealed a crack but wasn't separating any further.  Then, I tried the other end and it came up easier so I worked my way to the opposite end. 

The observation end:

There was no way I was going to be able to insert people into the small doorway leading to the glass roof area.  

Fortunately, I noticed a fine separation line between the two sides and, also, noticed some tabs on the inside for the observation area.  A little prying released it. 

This car must be on the 'high end' scale of Walthers cars as it has two electrical tabs and, using my voltmeter, they already connect to the trucks and wheels so no mods needed for truck electrical pickup.   

Lots of people: got to make this passenger business profitable!

Been seeing DCC articles using this Kapton tape so I bought some: it's an amber color.  Suppose to be high heat resistant.  I'm figuring 36 yards should last me awhile!

I used lots of Kapton tape to insure the LED strip did not come loose as I don't want to have to remove the roof a 2nd time!

The observation end was bent into a V so one LED was able to get through the doorway and light the glass area.  The other end was a little too long so the excess LED's were pushed into the hallway. 

Just soldered the wires to the tabs as I don't plan on doing this again!

End goes on, first. 

Almost ready to be back on the 'rails'...

Just as soon as I replace all the screws along the frame!

New delivery.

Westside B&O EM-1 2-8-8-4.

Have a Westside already but this was on an auction site and no bids at a very low price.  Made in 1979 with huge can motor and backhead detail.  I got it for less than what it sold for in 1979.   Virtually, new.  By Samhongsa: he does good work.  Lots of piping and details.

I can now double head for those long freight drags.

Two more observation cars lighted.

One left to do.

This will allow my LCC signalling system to know when the train has left its respective block.

These are the IHC cars made back in the 80's:

B&O:

NYC:

B&O looks great, Sam

Installed three more BLI water towers with functional spout and sounds.

Had to get these installed before Saturday's op session: can't have steam engines blowing up due to no 'watering holes'!

Before:

After: a little camouflage to tone down the newness.   Have to hold can about 3' away for the 'dusting'.

Some cat-5 wire stripped to extend the existing water tower wires to the edge of the layout.

This tool makes quick work of removing the sheathing.  Can only cut about 4" of sheathing due to resistance when trying to pull it off the wires. 

The original tower at Hillyard.

Wilmar.

Tye.

Glacier.  Fortunately, there are plenty of 15 volt terminal strips around the layout to connect the tower's input wires. The instructions show one can connect to DCC right at 'track side': Seems like a bad idea; don't want any possible outside interference with DCC frequencies. 

Glacier was difficult to route the wires.  Glacier sits above Cascade tunnel which sits above the new passenger yard.  Had to use a wire hook to, blindly, grab the wires and pull them from under the layout.  

Impressive:

Great service by TCS:

I hosed three TCS decoders (Two 1517's and one KAM4) and sent them to TCS to be fixed on 10-28-19 and got them back today (11-14) so only took 17 days for the repairs.  Fortunately they repair them free.  I've hosed several over the last few years to it would have been costly without the free repairs. 

New delivery.

I needed a GN observation car as the one I have has a flat end.  I only needed the observation car but these Walthers cars were for sale by the same seller, starting at 15 bucks, and I was the only bidder on them.  These are nice cars and definitely worth 15 bucks.   Since they came without boxes, I'm guessing no one wanted them.    

I'm having trouble removing the roof on the observation car.  I get a slight crack along the roof and that's about all the movement I get from the roof.   This is the last passenger car that needs a light.

There were no drumheads or rear light so I just put the LED in the roof of the deck. 

Whatever works!

Since  I'm having trouble getting the roof off of the GN observation car, I put an incandescent bulb between the two sides of the truck.  This provides a resistance so the LCC signalling system knows that block is occupied.  Good enough for now until I figure out how to remove the roof as I only have two more days until the ops session.  

Put some heat shrink tubing over the bulb so no light shows and just taped it to the bottom of the car. 

GNRW ops session.

After pizza, we ran all passenger trains.  We had four scale length passenger trains running on the mainline at once: I enjoyed watching the action.

One PRR guy confirmed PRR, RF&P and ACL had a joint effort on passenger trains from NY to Florida.

All steam engines had to use the new four operating water towers.

RIP track.

Old Athearn, Varney and Silver streak cars updated.  

These cars pre date the plastic cars and are either all metal or all wood kits.  A year ago, at the Dayton NMRA show an older fellow was selling all his freight cars and, I couldn't resist, and bought about 50 of them.  Most needed the trucks replaced and Kadees added.  Some, with wooden underframes were easy updates with the Kadees as just a screw was needed to secure the coupler pockets.  Some had cast coupler pockets so I had to modify the Kadees to fit.  I bought a bunch of acurail trucks w/o wheels and added Intermountain wheel sets to most of them.  I would have preferred to just insert the wheel sets into the original metal trucks that were sprung but, usually, the insulated side of the wheel sets makes intermittent contact with the truck side frames and shorts out.  It doesn't take long for the mods and I have about half of them done.

Some serious mods to the Kadee coupler pocket but with the new wisker type coupler, it works well. 

Some coupler pockets needed a shim of thin plastic.

Wood bases were easy. 

I love the detail/look of the vintage metal cars.

The previous owner did a nice job of subtly weathering this car.  I tried just inserting the Intermountain wheel sets in the metal trucks but, after moving the car sideways on the powered track, the CB would 'blow'. 

Full cast metal pocket that included the exposed end framework so Kadee coupler pocket's sides were cut to fit the narrow area.  A little thick CA so secure it; no thin CA as it would likely flow into the area and 'freeze' the coupler's side movement. 

One could detail the under frame to what ever degree they wanted.  Most just added the supplied 'basics'.  

The vintage cars make a nice train.  These cars were suppose to go into the new interchange yard but I got a 'bug' to make it an all passenger yard so the two main yards are,now, full to capacity.  I plan to retire the 70's and 80's plastic freight cars to make room for the vintage cars.  

About half done and half 'to go' plus a few more logging cars for the logging railroad.

Sam that looks like a great day for the operating group!!!!

Mark, I had a great time watching all the new passenger trains.

=================

Had leaf mulching and daughter's Monday off to do things but back to railroading.

Old metal Athearn, Varney and Silver streak freight car updates.

I've got about 20 more of these to convert.  I had to order some more accurail trucks and intermountain wheel sets but they are out of the wheel sets and the new shipment is on a boat so it will be awhile until I can finish updating these cars.  About 12 of the 20 are done.  Got more decoder installs to do, anyway.

Previous owner made his own whisker couplers; soldered a brass wire to an old baker type coupler. 

I like this: I was 4 years old when this car was built!

An all metal coupler pocket needed some drilling/tapping for a Kadee coupler. 

Kadee pocket modified to fit the original metal pocket. 

Interesting: these two Varney cars are the same railroad but made at different times as the manufacturer went from an all metal under frame to a plastic under frame.

Interesting, again, that Varney changed the car numbers on the second run; something I wouldn't have thought they would do 'back then'.

Completed mods:

I took off about 20 all plastic cars from the 70's but added them back onto the layout!  I was looking at the cars and they have all kinds of small railroads or unusual graphics so I couldn't see not having them on the layout.  The St. Paul freight yard has 3 incoming train tracks so I put the 70's cars on one of the tracks! 

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 decoder install.

Presently, a Burlington O-5B 4-8-4 is pulling the Zephyr passenger cars but, sometimes, the drivers slip trying to pull a 13 car passenger train and, since the Zephyr was a 'joint effort' between the Burlington, D&RGW and WP, I'd insert a larger engine.

This engine was painted a few years ago.  I love multi-colored engines!

Initially, I wasn't going to drill out the marker lights for LED's because they are unusual in that they are round and I didn't think I could drill holes in them.  Courage, or stupidity, prevailed so I drilled them out.  Luck was with me as all went well.  Two holes were drilled in the front smoke box to route the marker light wires.

I wasn't even going to drill out the tender marker lights as they were mounted close to the tender and no way to route wires from the sides since only the front is lighted.  Again, courage prevailed, and, since they were close to the tender, I drilled through them at about a 30 degree angle, downward, as part of the marker light is even with the top of the tender deck and still missing the main anchor point of the marker lights. 

Number 57 drill bits gives just enough room for the 0402 micro LED's.  These are, surprisingly, sold by home depot, online only but can be delivered to the store. 

Some scalecoat loco black used to cover the bare metal after drilling out the lights.  LED's held in place with canopy glue and, also, tested to insure not contacting the metal super structure. 

Running board lights.

Let the glue 'cook' during lunch. 

D&RGW L-131 decoder install (cont)

The usual TCS 1517 WOW 101 steam decoder.

The boiler has a large chunk of lead in the center of the boiler but I rolled up some lead for the front of the boiler.

Had to cut some lead away for free movement of the front steam exhaust pipe.

Usual 1/16" heat shrink tubing used to route LED wires to the back of the boiler and then testing that 'all is good'.

Four running board lights for the articulated. 

Cab light.

LED wires protected from weight and motor

Got decoder, speaker and tender headlight/marker lights completed plus 8 pin connector.  Had to use a disk cut off wheel to make a slot under the front tender deck for the wires.   PFM speaker used.

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 decoder install (cont).

The wire connector to the engine was made plus another connector to the boiler for the lights.  Usually, I test the decoder install in a disassembled state so any problems can be easily corrected.  The Decoderpro doesn't apply full voltage in case I did something stupid.  At this stage all is done except the engine lights.

Decoderpro used to update the loco address and enter the new engine into the 'log.

Create new roster entry.  Roster ID and address inserted into table.

Next is open comprehensive programmer.  Road number and manufacturer entered.

Save to roster and then back to main engine listing. 

I clicked on the ID heading and all entries were put into alphabetical order. 

Routed two more wires into the boiler and out the bottom to access the engine headlight which is mounted on the front engine.   A 2 wire connector was made for ease of PM.

Final assembly.   Still needs to be road tested on the mainline. 

Marker and running board lights.

Cab and fire box glow.  Always did like the Weston crew figures. 

Backup tender light.

Marker lights stay on in forward direction. 

Some foam cut into a coal load with glue and coal added.  Will let it 'cook' overnight. 

Bought 2 more IHC NP passenger cars. They are very cost effective as they can, usually, be bought for under 20 bucks.

Needed two more so that entire yard track is full (can't waste track space!).  A 14 car train looks good with an NP A-5 4-8-4 pulling them! 

I think I've got all the bugs out of this engine.  There were a few places where the tender would short due to a little too wide of a gauge.   Be chance I saw some 8 wheel trucks for sale on ebay.  8 wheel trucks are not easy to find so I thought that I'd better buy them as 'back up' to the originals.  The originals are fully functional with springs and independent truck side frame movement: Very unusual for a model made in 1965.  

The 'back up' trucks are solid, non moving sides so they, probably, will be less hassle in causing shorts.   I've got some SF 4-8-4 Northerns with 8 wheel trucks that are solid frames and they don't short out. 

All the lights look great!!  Certainly a nice engine!  Fill those tracks!!  

DCC decoder schematic that is used to install decoders in steam engines. 

This is when I install a TCS 1517 WOW101 steam decoder. 

D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 decoder install road test.

Video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

Keep loosing small items falling to the floor so I put down a one color towel as the original carpet hides parts very easily.  The soft material keeps parts from bouncing to strange places.

Nice touch on the towel on the floor for falling parts

Mark,

It's already paid for itself; had a tender screw and spring fly to the floor and both were on the towel and easy to see.

Milwaukee EP-2 bi-polar electric decoder (TCS KAM4) install (cont).

This electric had two open frame motors and, I believe, the decoder couldn't handle the amperage and burned out.  TCS has, since, sent me the repaired decoder. 

Next was to install two can motors. 

The can motors have two sides that are flat so I had to drill/tap the brass mounting 'L' shape plate in a new location to make room for the can motors. 

The can motors needed new mounting brackets so they were made from some brass stock. 

Not sure what the brass stock thickness is but this is what I used: Not to thin or too thick to cut but just right!

Finished product. 

Glad I decided to test the two motors with straight DC before using the decoder...

The connector started smoking and got so hot the wires came loose.  Not sure if the past overload hosed up the connector but a new one will have to be made as the internal parts are black for the wires going to the motors.   Tested by bypassing the connector and all's good so just the connector is bad. 

Finished up the vintage Athearn, Varney and Silver streak freight cars.

The Kadee couplers arrived so the remaining cars were updated including Intermountain wheel sets.

I'm not sure who made the tank cars: they are all cast metal; tanks and frame.

Interesting Kraft car as it has aluminum instead of paint. 

Video: testing the new freight cars on the mainline.  The engine is a GN R-2 2-8-8-2 and super weighted with lots of lead.  Wasn't sure if it could handle the freight train up the hill but no problem.  I've always liked the sound of the metal wheels. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be