Heat from Lights in Passenger Cars: Verdict

Typically, I don't worry about heat as much as the power draw of passenger cars.  I have nine PRR 18" MTH passenger cars, before my LED conversion, they would draw around 3 amps when running!  After the LED conversion, it's hard to measure, but it's around 200ma.

Since this is commuter service, and in a around the wall bedroom size layout, I only run 3 cars.

I convert all my plastic passenger cars to LED lighting since I run Legacy with full 18-19 volts.

Steve, Lady and Tex

How hard is it to convert those Williams and RMTs?

There are replacement LED's for bayonet and screw-in base bulbs as well. Just need to know where to buy them.

Lee Fritz

Hey chipset maybe you need to run your MTH heavyweight passenger cars on tubular track and switches. I have an MTH steam engine that hates Gargraves switches but does fine on tubular switches like post war 022's, and K-Line 042 switches.

Lee Fritz

Hi,

   I use L.E.D lights as well, I got mine at a train show but I'm sure you could check 

online and ebay as well.

I converted my MTH Superliners to LED's after their half-an-amp-apiece power draw caused issues when trying to run a longer train than the usual six cars:

While I did need to learn how to construct a regulator circuit to feed them, once that hurdle was crossed I was able to install LED strip lighting in these in about two hours apiece--and much of that was due to the bi-level nature of the cars, and a desire to leave as much of the car's innards unmodified (except for removing the bulbs) as possible.

On a single-level car, the conversion would be considerably less complicated.

---PCJ

Pretty easy.

Put the strip of LEDs across the top, wire four components in to the track power feed, and you're done.

That looks good, John.... downright surgical in precision!  Unfortunately, I've never tackled anything like this & would be hesitant to do it.

Here is a good thred to read about the some of the work that has been done in selecting LED lighting color.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/t...63#23956019155002363

John, if possible, please add a wiring diagram for the added components, as the Supertex CL2N3-G is hard to identify the connects.

Thank you in advance...

Here you go, hot off the presses.   Click on the picture for the full sized version.

Sorry to bother you, John, but there is a discrepancy between the photo and the schematic.  The photo shows the diode as a 1N4003 while the schematic shows a 1N4005.  Will either one do?  Thanks.

Pete

Either one will do, I now routinely buy the 1N4005 diodes as they fit everywhere.  The only difference is the reverse voltage rating, and either is plenty for model train stuff.

gunrunnejohn;

Have you considered reversing the diode polarity on every other car to evenly load the AC wave from the transformer?

Tho with LEDs the power offset is minimal.

Hi! I purchased light bulbs at york several years ago, they contain leds instead of regular bulb filaments, they had the bluish or regular leds, or the yellowish ones that look more like regular incandescent bulbs, those are the ones i bought,  just exchange them for the regular bulbs, no muss or fuss, they are not priced that high, no change to the currant wiring, and they use much less power! hope this helps!

Never considered is as the total load of a significant passenger train is less than a single car before the conversion.  In a perfect world, it would probably makes sense, but I'm just too lazy to think like that.

For the conventional runners, I have several variations, this is one that will give you nice lighting at the lowest track voltage settings.

You can also use a full-wave bridge which yields somewhat higher voltages at the currents involved.

John, I don't see how you are using the CL2-n3 in your circuit.  The data sheet shows the CL2-n3 as a 3 terminal device, and you show a zener diode in your circuit?

John is showing it as a zener diode, but if it is a zener, it is in backwards.  Please explain.

Well, I just stuck the Zener in there as a component, there is not CL-2 in the TinyCAD libraries.  I didn't feel like creating one.  That's why I labeled the Input and Output as I did.

Oh, and the CL-2 is a two terminal device, if you look at the data sheet, the 3rd terminal is labeled as No Connection.  If you want to create the symbol for me, I'll be glad to correct the diagram.

Too many rivet counters, next time you post the diagram.

You got that right, John.  They even count the rivets in an article from The Onion, for goodness' sake.  Oy vey!

Thanks for all your help.

Pete

Peanuts.  The Lionel Smithsonian passenger cars each have 20 GoW bulbs in them.  And yes, after a while the roof of the car gets hot.  If left on too long they will damage the interior of the car due to the heat.   The PRB Super Chief cars each had about 6-8 GoW bulbs and any car that had the interior lights on any period of time had the interior basically destroyed due to heat buildup.

even just the 2 bulbs in that blue comet MTH car gets really hot.  The bulbs are burned at the edges.  Im using Z1000 bricks.  should I use a smaller voltage transformer or can you control the voltage with the TIU to the track with the remote?  I wondered if I was running too much juice!!!!!!!!!! 

So far just removing the diaphrams from my RMT passenger cars seems to have made a difference. Warm but not hot, I guess the heat is escaping thru the vacated doors where the diaphrams used to be.

I found this thread while searching for heat issues with MTH Passenger cars from this set: http://www.mthtrains.com/content/30-4216-1

The bulbs included in the cars and the track lock-on are 14v bulbs, but the DCS power supply is 18v. All were running too bright and very hot. A few had failed after less than twenty hours of run time; all showed discoloration.

I found a perfect replacement bulb that's 18v: Eiko 16026 - 2102 Miniature Automotive Light Bulb. They're available on Amazon and other places.

They produce the right amount of light on a DCS layout, just reuse the existing plastic bases and trim the leads.