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I'm at my wits end with this...

 

If I apply 9V directly to the resistor, I can feel it heat up.

Fan spins when tested - and I can turn it on and of from my Legacy remote.  I have reset the engine multiple times.

But no matter what I do - I can not get the resistor to heat when the engine is on the track - I have gone so far as to hold it between my fingers while holding smoke boost (Aux1 and then holding 9) and it stays ice cold... 

 

I also re-soldered every connection on the smoke PCB in case it was a cold solder joint... no change.

What could cause this?

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You're looking in the wrong place.  It's likely not the smoke unit.  This locomotive has the infamous smoke voltage regulator, a common failure point.  The smoke regulator is actually the part that supplies the power to the smoke resistor.

The smoke resistor should measure around 8 ohms with an ohmmeter.  You should be able to easily trace the wires to the connector of the smoke unit and measure it there.  If that rings out, start looking at the smoke regulator and smoke switch wiring.

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That doesn't look like the smoke regulator.  The Lionel smoke regulator board has five wires on one side, two of them being grounds, so sometimes the second one is trimmed off.  Classically, they're heatshrunk like the one I posted above.

  

That might be a 5V power regulator used in some engines, look around for one that has red, brown, black with brown strip and one or two black wires.  The 691-ACRG-E01 is the one that is specified in the parts listing for your locomotive.

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Yep, common to lose one ground.  Just make sure the colors match, and the brown stripe goes to the new one the same way.  There should be a red (track power), brown (serial data), black w/brown stripe (smoke element), and one or two black (frame ground).  If you confuse the brown and brown stripe, you'll be replacing anything that uses the serial data!

I just cut them, strip them, and then tin the wires on the new regulator and the wires that used to go on the old regulator.  Slip some heatshink on the wire, and solder them.  Put the heatshink over the splice and shrink it with a heat gun.

My splices for stuff like this are just about 1/4" of the wire tinned and lay them side by side and heat.  You're not trying to suspend a bridge here, just have a good solder connection.

I don't have to resort to Google, I've used it for years.  However, Liquid Tape is not nearly as tough as heatshrink.  For wiring stuff like this I prefer heatshrink.  Heatshrink is also much quicker, a quick blast of hot air and the joint is insulated and I can move on, I have to wait for Liquid Tape to dry before I can stuff the wires away.  I find Liquid Tape great for certain jobs like blocking light from lighting installations where I don't want it, etc.

Truthfully, in looking at the smoke unit that is supposed to be in that unit, I don't see how the fan runs unless power is actually getting to the smoke unit.  That appears to be a totally dumb smoke unit that powers the fan from the smoke heater voltage.  That being the case, I can't imagine this being anything but an issue right at the smoke unit.

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Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

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