Skip to main content

The other day during a pleasant operating session, we had an engine come to an abrupt halt on a section of main line.  A three foot section of track was dead.  But when I put the multimeter on the rails, it showed power.

I pulled out a lighted passenger car.  No lights... except when I pushed on the car.  Then the lights would illuminate.  The MTH Scaletrax lock on I used had come just loose enough to lose contact, but when pressure was applied to the track, then contact was made.

IMG_20200104_105638424IMG_20200104_105733945

For some back story, we have been building this particular layout since 2012.  The mains were the first thing installed so we could run trains.  In the beginning, I used MTH Lock On's 45-1033.  It's a neat three wire clip that clips into the plastic ties to make contact with the rails.  I'm lazy and was not very good at soldering, so I used several of those when I could find them in the hobby shops.

45-1033

As I read more and more on OGR over the years about soldering track wire leads, I started doing that instead.  It was cheaper and it provided a better connection.

At this dead section of track, I happen to have used one of these lock on's.  The problem, it the track was nailed down and ballast had been glued in place. In order to fix this I was going to have to tear things up which did not interest me at all.

What I ended up doing was applying just enough pressure on the rails for the lock on to make contact.  Then I applied some CA glue to the area for a quick set.  That seemed to work.  I'll probably regret that decision if and when the time comes to ever dismantle the layout.

IMG_20200104_105530764

So the point of this long thread is to listen to these kind experienced folks on OGR and solder your track leads.  You will have a better connection and you will have access to these connections in the future after you use ballast and glue.

Have Fun!

Ron

IMG_20200104_112015273

 

Attachments

Images (5)
  • 45-1033
  • IMG_20200104_105530764
  • IMG_20200104_105638424
  • IMG_20200104_105733945
  • IMG_20200104_112015273
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I soldered a jumper wire on every track joint on my layout except where my center rails needed to be isolated due to my blocks. I soldered a wire on one side of a joint, drilled a hole on each side of the joint, pushed the soldered wire down the first hole and up through the second hole then soldered the wire to the other side of the joint. I soldered my power wires also. I kept the soldering on the back side of rails where possible and after I painted the rails rust brown and added ballast the soldering was almost invisible. It was a lot of work but I've never had a problem with dead spots.

I agree with soldering if you are building a scale or high rail layout.  However, building a post-war layout, like I intend to do later this year.  A permanent one that is.  I will be using lock-ons.  From past experience with post-war type layouts, things seem to have a way of changing.  A new accessory, for instance.  Track may have to be removed and rearranged to accommodate this new toy.  To my thinking, removing wires from a lock-on is much easier and cleaner than unsoldering wires from tinplated rails.  

As for insuring that wires stay connected to the lock-on, I usually place a staple over the wire or wires as they enter the lock-on.  

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×