These are obviously unregulated bricks as stated in the other thread on this topic.  If you put a sufficient load on them, they'd get down to somewhere close to 4.5-5.0 volts.  If I had this situation, I'd just go buy a better power brick.

Exactly John.

There isn't enough of a load with these buildings to bring down the voltage to a level I'm comfortable with.  Some consumer items with a greater energy need and they might drop and be okay.

But LEDs and even with the sign draw such little current.

I'll pick one up at Michael's ..........they advertise a suitable one on line and probably carry them in store.

Did we ever hear of a "fix" from Menards?

I just checked my old(2yrs) Menards 3 line power supply and the voltage is 4.6 volts with 2 other buildings attached.

Then I removed the other two buildings and the voltage was .5 volt higher.

Then I checked my new Menarsds 3 line power supply which I have not used yet and also found the higher voltage at 9.2 no buildings attached..

I think I hold off using it until we hear from Mark.

franktrain

The Menards buildings are designed for 4.5 volts ~ (with some tolerance). The Power station model will draw down the voltage because it has around 20 lights and sign; other buildings not so much because they only have 2-3 lights each. I am adding buildings to each adaptor via terminal strip and measuring voltage as I go; the goal is to get the voltage per adaptor down to as close to 4.5 volts as possible.

I used a small Ho transformer to power my buildings. You then can adjust the voltage to your likeing. I used the plugs from the three  way to plug into the buildings.  

The three way was putting out almost 9 volts so I cut the wires off and trashed the transformer. 

Paul Kallus posted:

 I am adding buildings to each adaptor via terminal strip and measuring voltage as I go; the goal is to get the voltage per adaptor down to as close to 4.5 volts as possible.

I think this is a dangerous way to go.  What happens if you unplug that building with 20 lights first and the power soars? 

I will recommend, for the final time, simply find yourself a decent regulated adapter.  I suspect the 5V regulated adapters you can buy for peanuts on eBay would be a good choice.  If you want to get really close to 4.5 volts, just add a silicon diode in series with the connection, that's what I did for the Lemax buildings.  I have a nice big 5V regulated supply, I added the series diode in the DC feed.  I then have a bunch of cords spliced together with the matching barrel plugs, a power octopus.  That way I have one power brick for a number of buildings.

eBay #: 381001718574, a 2A 5V regulated wall wart for $4.25 shipped.

eBay #: 132046787607, a number of different capacity adapters, even a bit cheaper.  How about 5 amps for $12 shipped?

John........I've been looking on EBay for these adapters.....nothing locally to the match needed.

I've read the descriptions carefully and could not determine the regulated from the non-regulated.

In your choice above how would I know from the ad if it was regulated?

Thanks

Dave

Paul.......I would agree with John.........I think it is a risky way to achieve the goal.

The LEDs seem a little more robust but the signs are more delicate to the power difference.

Just my opinion.........before I knew about this issue...... lost a sign on one of my buildings due I believe, to overcurrent,  but the LEDs survived.

The wall adapter at 1000ma or 1 amp seems quite large. If you had a resistor decade box or a 5 watt resistor at 4.5 ohms and attach the as tour load to the power supply it should drop to 4.5VDC.

As Gunnrunner John stated a 5VDC regulated power supply or a 5VDCregulator would solve this problem.

On eBay there is a "Power Supply/Adapter, Regulator, 120 vac to 5v/vdc/volts, 1a/amp,wall-mount, 3m". This supply is small and looks like it uses a switcher power supply technology.

John, I take your point about unplugging one at a time but I have the Menards transformers powered by a terminal strip - that goes on and off so all buildings go on and off at the same time.  

Dave - I have an old DC transformer with variable output - that's an alternative.

I had this on hand and set it up to power my Menards American Power and Light from accessory 15 AC to my chosen DC output of 4.5 volts

Presently working well.

Does anyone have knowledge as to how many buildings this little device might support and any concerns if any?

I could run this into a terminal block and then out to all buildings.

Thanks

Soo Line posted:

I had this on hand and set it up to power my Menards American Power and Light from accessory 15 AC to my chosen DC output of 4.5 volts

Presently working well.

Does anyone have knowledge as to how many buildings this little device might support and any concerns if any?

I could run this into a terminal block and then out to all buildings.

Thanks

 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Copy the number off of the regulator, then google it, now look for the data sheet. Once found you should be able to see how much current it can handle.

 

Interesting Ron....

I checked the ad and it quotes this   LM317 Voltage Regulator Module  2 A max.

I found this.......

Doug N posted:

Did we ever hear of a "fix" from Menards?

I was told by a Menards rep, thru email, that they would be talking with their engineers about this next month.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

These are obviously unregulated bricks as stated in the other thread on this topic.  If you put a sufficient load on them, they'd get down to somewhere close to 4.5-5.0 volts.  If I had this situation, I'd just go buy a better power brick.

John

I realize that placing a load on a power supply would have an impact on voltage. However, (OLD school here) one could use a 12 volt battery to start an automobile with a 6 Volt electrical system. However, if you left the 12 volt battery connected too long, you would burn up the vehicle's electricals.

Would not the same principle apply here. If you are using a power supply with too high a voltage output, would it not in turn eventually fry the electricals of the device to which it is attached?

All I know is, that when I obtained a power supply out putting he correct voltage, the building (Hobby Shop) worked as it should. I have since added another building (Red Owl Store) to he adapter I have and it is working properly. One needs to make sure you have a sufficient amperage output ot handle a certain number of devices, with a proper voltage output.

david1 posted:

I used a small Ho transformer to power my buildings. You then can adjust the voltage to your likeing. I used the plugs from the three  way to plug into the buildings.  

The three way was putting out almost 9 volts so I cut the wires off and trashed the transformer. 

Exactly!!!  I'm using a couple of Tyco Dual Pac power supplies left over from my brief stint into HO.  They work very well .  No need for any wall wart adapters.

I love Menards buildings but I will not buy any more until they produce something compatible with wiring right into the power from the transformer like every other MTH and Lionel building and accessories.  I have MTH bus boards at various points on my layout to supply power from the Z4000 transformers to all buildings.  My two Menards buildings remain dark and unused.   Compatibility and simplicity.... better way to go

Soo Line posted:

I checked the ad and it quotes this   LM317 Voltage Regulator Module  2 A max.

2A is a pipe dream with the LM317!  In order to do that, you'd need more bulk capacitance on the input and a much larger heatsink.  That will be pretty toasty with 1A if you're feeding it 12VAC or higher.  If you put 18V on that and set it to 4.5 volts out, the 13.5 volts at 1 amp is all turned into heat in the LM317.

I know I sound like a broken record, but a PC power supply's 5vdc tap with a series diode is a cheap and dependable power source. Any computer repair shop will have them for almost no cost. I get Plug 'n Play, but it's not much exertion to adapt two wires.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Soo Line posted:

I checked the ad and it quotes this   LM317 Voltage Regulator Module  2 A max.

2A is a pipe dream with the LM317!  In order to do that, you'd need more bulk capacitance on the input and a much larger heatsink.  That will be pretty toasty with 1A if you're feeding it 12VAC or higher.  If you put 18V on that and set it to 4.5 volts out, the 13.5 volts at 1 amp is all turned into heat in the LM317.

Bingo John Beat me to reply!.  Can do 2 A with large enough heatsink and input V just above the output V.  In other words, the smallest differential voltage drop across the LM317 pass transistor that provides reliable regulated output.  Still will be toasty warm.  Why a switcher is way to go.

GREENRAIL posted:

Doug N posted:

Did we ever hear of a "fix" from Menards?

I was told by a Menards rep, thru email, that they would be talking with their engineers about this next month.

In a way I am bumping this up here. It is getting late in the Month Of February. So, the question arises as to whether or Not Menards Team has come up with anything regarding their power supplies? Inquiring minds want to know! As I had mentioned earlier, I was told by a Menards Rep (thru email) that they would be discussing this situation with their engineers this month. I for one wish great success on their product line. Likewise, One hopes that this will be resolved in order to keep these products available and hopefully, Menards not having to deal with extraneous returns due to problems with incorrect voltage.

Has there ever been a consensus on which Menards power adaptors are good to go vs. those of higher outputs that will fry the building's electronics? I've got a few laying around and the model #s are challenging to keep track of.

@Paul Kallus:

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...06#71819767899744106

Thanks bmoran4, however, I may have even older transformers from Menards, but am not sure. The model #s of mine, below, do not match. 

I have the following model #s (all from Menards):

Jy41-045-100-UD

Jy41-030-100-UD

Both of the above rated at 4.5 VDC and 1000 mA

Also have:

DP002AD450500HU - rated at 4.5 VDC and 5.0A 

Also have:

GPU480452000WDOO - rated at 4.5 VDC and 2000 mA

and,

GPU410451000WDOO - rated at 4.5 VDC and 1000 mA

Unless someone has a master record of Menards adaptors, I suppose I'll  need to break out the voltage tester and measure each one, with and without loads. 

@Paul Kallus posted:

I suppose I'll  need to break out the voltage tester and measure each one, with and without loads. 

Sounds like a plan to me. You could also add external regulation if you were up to a bit of tinkering.

Paul, 

You can also use a small Ho (dc) transformer to lower the voltage of any building or just use it to light the building. 

Dave

SOO LINE, try the 4.5 adapters from Lemax. Sold at Ehobbytools or Michaels this time of year. Michaels has coupons you can bring up on your phone.

Joe Gozzo

Joe - as I have a good amount of Lemax buildings and adaptors laying around, your idea is appealing. I just noted that the Lemax adaptors that I have (4.5 volt DC and 3 plug variety) are rated at 1000 mA output, whereas the three newer Menards adaptors (currently on their site) are rated at 1,000 mA, 2,000 mA, and 5,000 mA outputs (with increasing price per higher amp output), all at 4.5 VDC.

This got me thinking, why so many amperage outputs, so I began checking their O-gauge buildings - and sure enough each is listed with a different mAmp power draw.

Does the above mean that a user of Menards buildings should be matching the building's power draw, and adding up each building, such that the total power draw doesn't exceed the adaptor output?

Note: I tried powering two Menards buildings (total power draw summed to 2,400 mA, and one my Lemax 1000 mA adaptors lit them just fine. Is this not a good practice?

I never imagined powering these buildings could get so complicated.