MTH Alco PA Diesel AA Set w/Proto Sounds Help

Do a conventional reset.  Without using TIU---it should not be powered at all---, connect transformer directly to track.  Press whistle once and then bell 5 times, at 1/2 second intervals.  Whistle should give a few toots to acknowledge.  This is not the factory reset; can't be done with TIU.

How is the battery. When you press direction does the engine sound shut off then on when direction button is released. Batteries not charged fully do strange things with Proto 1.

Thank you!  I considered that possibility.  When I press the direction button, it does take the sound away and it returns when I release the button.  That would mean that the battery is good, right?
Frank

I didn't realize this is PS-1, since you didn't say otherwise and this is the PS2/3 forum. 

 

In PS2, if the sound went off when you press the Direction button, the battery is not good.

You have a PS_1 and it requires a fully charged battery to change direction, you also need to have voltage less that 10V when coming out of reset.

 

You can use a new alkaline temporarily as a test.  Install it, power up to 9.5V.  Let the engine start.  Than hit direction button and see if it moves.  At that point your out of reset and the voltage can be raised or lowered and the engine will change directions regardless of voltage.

 

If that doesn't work, let us know.   G

If the sound cuts out or gets weak when you push the direction button on a PS-1 locomotive, the batter is low or dead.  Due to the age of the locomotive, if you've never changed the battery, then it's bad and needs to be replaced.  Like GGG says, you can use a regular 9V battery to test the locomotive.  Also, like GGG said, the locomotive will not leave reset if you start it with over 10 volts.

You powered it up with the old white battery.  You need a chip and a new green battery or BCR.   Before you order a chip you can have an MTH tech that goes back to PS1 try reset chips he has for PS1.  These are special chips and not the chip for the 3 clanks.

I'd still try it with a normal 9V battery first.  I've powered up lots of PS-1 locomotives with the original white battery in it (Latest was Friday evening.) and not killed any.  It's not powering it up that kills it, it's trying to program with a weak battery that does.  Use a new battery, keep the track power under 10V and see if it goes.  If it does, you are fine.  If you get the 3 clanks of death, then you need a chip.  The PS-1 systems are more robust then people give them credit for.

The 3 clanks is not a reason for needing a chip.  When you get the 3 clanks, you do not need a chip but need the board rebooted with the MAKE PS chip.  Remember.  I strongly advise to never use the old white battery.  You can try it with an alkaline as mentioned in this post by George.  Yes most engines

 

Any locomotive that ends up on my bench with a white battery gets a new battery or BCR.  Yes, many white batteries will work.  Your trains can be run any way you want.  Enjoy.

Marty, I still do PS-1, you calling me old...  Hopefully he did not scramble the memory. He hasn't reported the 3 clanks but it still could have an ID issue if it won't come out of reset.   G

George, sometimes the 1011 chip will bail him out.  I am a DCS and Legacy  guy but do have a great respect for PS-1.  It is a great system and not bad to work with.   MTH still has new PS-1 boards in stock.  I am sitting on 57 PS-1 board sets from some of the upgrades I have done.  I have two guys who have me put them in Williams engines.

I just fixed one with the 1011 chip, just came up with a bit of static.  When I get a "bad" PS/1 board set, I usually run through the reset chips, just to make sure it's not simple.