beardog49 posted:

Hey George, I was looking at your crossover and had a thought. Why not try old school hardwood.

Easier to work with than corian or plastic.

non-conductive

Looks a lot classier.

If I use the Corian, I'll paint it black. I like the idea of hardwood with a stain. I just worry that it might not wear well with the trains running through it. I really need to get a table saw to make these crossovers easily. I tried using a router and the tolerances are too small. 

George

Today I completed the first level benchwork on the left peninsula. Now I can sketch in track and layout the second level. I have parts to a second level already made, but I realized those were made to clear O gauge trains at 6.5”. I’m going to need 9.5” to 10” to clear Standard gauge.

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I also placed orders for track with USA Track and Menards. My MTH / Lionel plastic roadbed track is on eBay right now. There will still be some Fastrack, Atlas and Gargraves on the layout until my budget gets replenished. I still have one Ross tinplate STD switch to buy and am plotting another STD loop, but I have plenty to do for now.

I started mounting the power supplies and realized I had left a few in storage.

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Not a rush, since there’s only a little track down right now.

George

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Rob English posted:
George S posted:

 

 

I started mounting the power supplies and realized I had left a few in storage.

0B722181-5DD5-4DE5-BD67-B9225176E6D8

George

Weld much?  You have enough power there to do some!

And, there are more packed away!  Also, one loop will have a switch to a DC transformer. 

George

pd posted:

Hey George,

When you drill through the felt, how do you keep it from winding up around the bit? I tried using felt once and it was a disaster.

PD

I haven't done a lot of that yet. I had that problem. I widened the hole in the felt and kept it away from the bit or up around the shank of the bit if there was slack in the felt. I plan to slice the felt going forward if I am drilling from the top.

I don't think it will do that if it is glued down in the spot you are drilling. So, another option is to slice the felt and glue it down in that spot. Once dry, you can drill. That will take longer though. 

George

George S posted:
pd posted:

Hey George,

When you drill through the felt, how do you keep it from winding up around the bit? I tried using felt once and it was a disaster.

PD

I haven't done a lot of that yet. I had that problem. I widened the hole in the felt and kept it away from the bit or up around the shank of the bit if there was slack in the felt. I plan to slice the felt going forward if I am drilling from the top.

I don't think it will do that if it is glued down in the spot you are drilling. So, another option is to slice the felt and glue it down in that spot. Once dry, you can drill. That will take longer though. 

George

Cut an X where you want to drill, then fold the flaps over and hold them out of the way with tape, then drill.

Steve

Steve "Papa" Eastman

Yorba Linda, CA

Left Coast, Home of the lunatics

I hate to say it, but you should really pull the track up and put at least 1 inch styrofoam insulation down as a base.  Your layout is going to be very noisy otherwise, as it looks like you are screwing the track directly into the plywood. 

I know I wish I had put styrofoam in between the homasote and plywood on my layout.    

Nation Wide Lines posted:

I hate to say it, but you should really pull the track up and put at least 1 inch styrofoam insulation down as a base.  Your layout is going to be very noisy otherwise, as it looks like you are screwing the track directly into the plywood. 

I know I wish I had put styrofoam in between the homasote and plywood on my layout.    

I want to overhaul my temporary layout starting in January and do something like this.   Do you still secure the track to the foam,  and if so how?  

I kinda like the felt idea, but I have also had problems with the drill bit grabbing cloth and making a mess. 

May God Bless us all.

Nation Wide Lines posted:

I hate to say it, but you should really pull the track up and put at least 1 inch styrofoam insulation down as a base.  Your layout is going to be very noisy otherwise, as it looks like you are screwing the track directly into the plywood. 

I know I wish I had put styrofoam in between the homasote and plywood on my layout.    

I haven't installed anything permanently yet. Right now, the track is just floating. I know what you are talking about though. I do not plan on using foam and homasote, although I have read that is the new standard. For me, it's too expensive and too much work. However, your point is well taken that I need to plan on some sound treatment. I think the felt will help a little, but the biggest issue seems to be the screw going through the tie plate to the plywood. (Someone should make plastic screws!) Kirk, from USA Track, recommends not tightening the screw head down to the top of the tie. I have always done that, so I plan to back them off this time. I also read a trick on Tinplate Times that said to put window insulation under the track ties. That seems like a better option for me, although the carpet padding also sounds like a good idea. I'll play with some options. I don't even have all my track yet. 

My biggest issue is going to be the Fastrack that I still have. That has to be the noisiest track made. Eventually, I will replace that with Menards track.

George

I have used 3/8 with great results. The idea is to isolate the track from the table. 

My current little layout uses 3/8 foam roadbed, track is put together with track clips.

Then two sided tape is attached to the clip and then to the roadbed. No mechanical 

fastners (screws, nails etc) between track and table. Even the few trestles I have are

attached to the table with two sided tape. 

 

George S posted:
MikeH posted:

I used this carpet pad right on top of plywood.  There's very little noise.  I suspect you'd be happy with something similar.

What thickness? Will 3/8" work? Do I put it over the entire layout or just where the track is going to be?

George

George, that link is to the exact stuff I used.  Regrettably, I tossed all my extra scraps or I'd post a picture.  It's less than 3/8" though.  Maybe 1/4".  It is carpet pad made for area rugs as opposed to the bonded pad typically used for wall-to-wall carpeting.  This pad that I used has a rubber face on one side (for non-skid surface) and the other side is sort of felt-type material.  If you look at that Amazon pictures, that should match my description.  It's denser than the typical wall-to-wall carpeting pad.  It doesn't have near the sponginess.  Here's a couple of construction pics from last year:

IMG_4692IMG_4704IMG_6047

MikeH

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George S posted:

What if I used this on top of the felt cut as roadbed?: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fu...0553557-32/202601407

Do you folks think it would look right?

George

I don't think so.  If you go see the bonded pad in person, it usually won't present as gray like that picture.  That picture shows a gray/black product with flecks of pink, blue, red, etc. in it.  Usually, when you see that bonded pad, it will have a green tint or pink tint.  But you'll have to go to your local Home Depot to be sure. 

If I was building a layout from scratch like you, and was going to use pad, I would use the pad I linked to or something similar.  If I was going to use something visible, above the felt, as roadbed, I'd opt for purpose-made material like Flexxbed.  Although, I've never personally used Flexxbed so I can't opine on it's performance.  I just think it looks nice.

MikeH

MikeH posted:
George S posted:

What if I used this on top of the felt cut as roadbed?: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fu...0553557-32/202601407

Do you folks think it would look right?

George

I don't think so.  If you go see the bonded pad in person, it usually won't present as gray like that picture.  That picture shows a gray/black product with flecks of pink, blue, red, etc. in it.  Usually, when you see that bonded pad, it will have a green tint or pink tint.  But you'll have to go to your local Home Depot to be sure. 

If I was building a layout from scratch like you, and was going to use pad, I would use the pad I linked to or something similar.  If I was going to use something visible, above the felt, as roadbed, I'd opt for purpose-made material like Flexxbed.  Although, I've never personally used Flexxbed so I can't opine on it's performance.  I just think it looks nice.

I think it would work just fine, similar to what I have used. Just put your felt over it.

lehighline posted:

George,

Is that Dorfan train? Where did you find it?

Chris

LVHR

Yes it is. I bought it on eBay with some of the cars. I bought other cars and the caboose at different times. The caboose didn't have a cupola roof, so I made one out of brass stock. The caboose was otherwise in too good of condition to pass up. 

I can't believe I found this engine in such great running condition. It runs like a rocket in both directions and pulls all the cars! That's way better than I can say for my Ives 1122. The Dorfan train was on eBay for a couple of weeks, and I made an offer. 

I tore down the track temporarily to build the second level. I'll take a video of the Dorfan running once I get the second level built.

George

lehighline posted:

George,

Great find! I just picked up a group of Dorfan freight cars. Interestingly enough, mine is also missing the roof to the cupola. Please share a closeup of your hand made replacement. I'd like to copy it!

 

Chris

LVHR

Hi Chris,

Here are some pics of the caboose. I used a rod to shape the edges. I chose the rod size by comparing the ridge at the top of the cupola that the edge wraps around. The brass can also be painted to match the original. I believe there was red and green. I think the green is John Deere green found in a rattle can at Ace Hardware.

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George

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I made the upper level.

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I laid out the track and some accessories for fitting. I’ll need to remove the track and felt as I complete the five rail track sections. I’ll install the carpet padding on the upper level at that time. Here is what I bought. I’ll need more, but I couldn’t fit the large roll in my car.

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I also need to decide how to finish the side of the upper level. I’m thinking about a stone wall in spots. I may try printing it with my computer.

George

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