Proto 1 Upgrade Chip Availability?

KD,

It's not a quirk in the system and you don't need a new chip.

You just need to do a reset #25 and the horn or whistle will work in neutral.

If you have the engine manual, it will tell you how to do it.

His problem is that the bell works only when the engine "is" in neutral.  Ken, don't know if the chip is available, but maybe a new F3 chip is.  MTH still had a few select Proto 1 chips hanging around.  Giving them a call may be your only avenue.

Joe,

I'll give it a try tomorrow. I assume reset #25 will also give me bell control in forward/reverse modes? 

Doing some more investigation since starting this thread I now find that about a year ago MTH quit helping with Proto 1.0 parts/issues.  I guess we're on our own, so to speak.

So, I probably won't waste my time calling them.

How did you know that 'reset #25' was the correct adjustment?  I've searched for some sort of a listing of reset numbers/features/functions to no avail.  I must be asking the wrong question?  Such a list is not in any of the Proto 1 manuals that I have.  The manual for this particular F3 engine only speaks about the engine volume (#6) and cab chatter (#23).  Is there a website listing for all of the features, including factory reset?

Thx,

KD

Ken,

This link is the chart of reset features:

http://mthtrains.com/sites/def...ction/20dl15794i.pdf

This outfit handles all the PS1/ QSI stuff

http://www.the-scaled-tin-rail.com/

KD,

How did you know that 'reset #25' was the correct adjustment?

I've reset all my MTH PS1 engines to work the horn in neutral, since I use Z-4000 transformers and Z-4000 Remote Commander system (not the DCS Remote Commander) to run them. I can use the regular DCS handheld with the system as well.

All the MTH engine manuals have the reset listed usually on or about page 20, at least the ones I have or seen. Check that page on the link that Cheryl posted above to find it.

And remember to get 2 bells when doing the reset for the horn to blow in neutral......Joe

Yeah contact Art at The Scaled Tin Rail. He did a F3 Santa Fe for me and the replacement chip has a better sound set.

Thanks for the link.  NOW I really feel stupid....for the umpteenth time this week!

I happened to know that this edition of the F3, B&O 20-2050-0, was (among) the first that MTH did.  This set did not have an instruction manual with it when it arrived.  (About the ONLY thing keeping it from being a near-minty purchase!).  I have the DRGW F3 set from this generation, 20-2051-0, so I retrieved its manual from the file drawer.  As I said above, this is a VERY abbreviated manual (12 pages cover-to-back) compared with the later sets.  I might have referenced the broader manual in trying to correct the problem I'm having, but I didn't pre-suppose that its chip would be compatible with the broader reset commands.

So, if y'all say it should respond to the broader list of commands...that's how I'll spend this evening.

Or, Cheryl, if you have nothing better to do today...and happen to be in the area...I'll be at the shop from 10-3 and I can bring the engine along to try resetting.  (Store layout controlled w/Z-4000).  In any case I do appreciate the helpful suggestion and file.

BTW, in case you're wondering why, since I have the DRGW set, I didn't remember how I got rid of the bell/horn problem on that set.  Well, I wasn't as lucky in its purchase many years ago.  It had a defective board...way beyond the simple scramble problem.  Dean, at Brasseur's, took care of the problem while I waited.  After he installed the new board ($$$) and asked about my layout controls, I remember he went through some lengthy reset functions.  He demo-ed the results, I was happy, it still works perfectly...so I never had to deal with that problem myself.  In summary, the DRGW and B&O F3's are the only two PS1's I have from that first generation of products.  The next F3 set, the ATSF 20-2151, was good-to-go after a couple of resets from the larger manual...and STILL runs perfectly to this day! 

Thanks to all...have a great train day!

KD

Cheryl,

BTW, I have about 6 magazines in the file for you, incl. latest 25th anniv. CTT just arrived.  I'm in the shop M/W/F, 10-3.  Next: Friday 28SE. 

Thanks to all for the info.  I didn't call MTH today, but, GGG, I'll see how it goes with the Z-4000 tonight and maybe try them tomorrow.  Again, my set is 20-2050LP (now, -1), B&O F3.  If you have an appropriate upgrade chip, email me with particulars.

CRH/Chuck...Thanks.  STR may be my best opportunity if the other attempts don't pan out.  Anyhow it's a site now saved for future reference/use.

I really do appreciate all the help.  All-in-all, I love my PS1's.  Once they acquired BCS's, they have been, for my conventional world, the greatest...and a bargain!  When this B&O set came up, I checked an old (2001) price guide for some original MSRP info.  What a chuckle I got reading the THEN-value!!  Yep, they're a bargain...to me!  Of course, I paid NOWHERE near the 2001 'value'.  I have several PS2 engines, and I know the sound quality is better, but, hey, at my age and hearing level (Say what?) PS1 suits me just fine.

KD

Well, folks, looks like I need an upgrade chip.  This evening I tried resetting feature 20 (separate bell button) and feature 25 (horn in neutral) and neither were accepted.  I was, however, easily able to adjust the volume (feature 6).  I simply think I have an original bare-bones PS1 chip, which judging by the absence of any wheel/roller marks would make sense if this Beano F3 has only been a shelf queen for about 18 years!

I think I'll call MTH tomorrow and start there...see if they have a chip.  If not, I'll pursue one of the other options you folks have given.

KD

Boy, Back in 1999 the F3 sets 2050-1 & 2051-1 were fetching $900.00 and climbing. If you had the B unit each ABA set was worth $1,400.00 and climbing.

KD,  The have them.  You can e-mail them asking for an AI-0000037 with a AE-20xxxx1 sound set.  The xxxx is your model.  I would ask them to clarify if it is the upgrade profile.  I have 3 F-3 chips, 2 ATSF and one Southern.  I did not see an e-mail in your profile, you can contact me if you want one of the chips.

The only other issue is moving the jumper on your top board from 2meg to 4 meg position when you get the new chip.  If you can post a picture of the top board it may help.  Some very early top boards don't always work with other chips.  Later boards usually had no issues because of the upgraded processor and memory.  G

BTW, I have about 6 magazines in the file for you, incl. latest 25th anniv. CTT just arrived.  I'm in the shop M/W/F, 10-3.  Next: Friday 28SE.

Am shooting for a visit Friday, have been busy, betweeen canning and camping, just haven't had a chance to get up to the store.  Hope to see you then!

I am still your guy,  I have 4 PS-2 kit available for upgrades, and I have PS-1 top boards.  Send me an e-mail.  G

KD, you have company.

NOW I really feel stupid.

I have an early diesel (94) that works the same way. I got the same engine in PS2 and never ran the early one. All my later PS1 must have the 4 meg boards. I thought the only difference was that the early ones didn't have freight or passenger sounds and that was why the newer ones used the larger board.

The engine I have has a battery on and off switch that must be turned off to keep the battery from running down after use. Of course the best thing is it doesn't need a battery to run it. It runs fine, just without the engine sounds. And as far as I know, the board doesn't scramble on these early units.

If these are upgraded to the newer boards, you probably have to use a battery to run it. Am I right?

KD,

Does your engine have the battery switch? I'm not sure when it was done away with. My engine was cataloged in the spring of '94 and yours in the fall '94........Joe

Yes, it does.

KD

KD

Didn't get the job   Hope all goes well with the upgrade and it was very nice to have a "chat."

Cheryl,

I'm so sorry.  Keep the hope, though.  Sometimes the 'high bidder' reneges or runs short of expectations.  You might get a call when least expected. 

Enjoyed talking with you, too, and we'll look forward to next time.

KD

KD,

Let us know how your upgrade turns out. Have you thought about adding smoke to you F-3's with your PS2 upgrade?

No, Joe...  I tend to turn off the smoke on all my engines except for special occasions...demanding relatives, etc..  It's the typical basement layout, and for the copious amounts of smoke generated by today's products, the room tends to cloud up pretty quickly.  Then there's the lingering whole-house 'bouquet' of cheux-cheux.  The visual excitement if smoke gives way to feigned hacking/coughing laced with grumbling.  On the other hand it can expedite closure of a visit...if that's one's agenda.

Even "Nada" flavored smoke is too much.

To exercise the puffers would be a reason to join a club, though.  Putting on a show in a high-ceilinged venue with commercial ventilation...or even an outdoor modular setup!...would be a time to slide the switches to "on".

Oh, yes, almost forgot...   The seasonal train around the tree is permitted to smoke...appropriate seasonal scents, of course...because it adds to the...ahem...'ambiance'.

Yes, I'll let you know how it all turns out.  I'm really stoked for getting this conversion done!!

KD

With our modular display, we crank up all the smoke units, it does give you a chance to exercise them for a long period.