Should be plenty of room and PS1 boards can drive two motors without issue. As long as the existing speaker is 8 Ohms, you can reuse it. That will be a cool upgrade for that engine!

yes it would be a good upgrade as long as you can get the program chip from mth because at the moment I believe it's out of stock! the ps 1 board are great n are good boards as long as you use good batteries or bcrs!

Alan

While you are worried about the electrical compatibility, I'm worried about space!! MTH used a special split QSI board in these because of the space. Again, the example below is a QSI split special DCRU and digital horn only (about what you have now). Again, I looked up this Williams #934935 and it's a smaller O-31 curve capable model- thus in the railking class of size. If it does fit, this is going to be a shoehorn in job by my estimation.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...c/182466532084987207

FWIW, here is what I think maybe yours might look like inside (motor position space wise)?

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...g-1-double-from-1996

Again, there is a difference in models. Many brands made the compressed O-31 sized capable model, but then many made larger "scale" models that are longer and require longer curves. I'm worried we are looking at the smaller model and thus have less space.

Would you consider just putting in rail sounds the boards are much smaller and require no battery. I have converted a few GG_1’s both scale and semi scale. They are not as easy as they look, with the motors sitting in the center of the unit, the narrow ends, and they do get lower. You really only have room between both motors the key is to be very neat and keep things as tightly bundled as possible. If you need any direction on this, please feel free to email me.

PennCentralShops

Just one more note about space with the PS1 boards:  Yes, they're long and from the photos it looks like a full PS1 board might be a tight fit.

BUT

Ps1 boards have about a full inch of real estate at one end occupied by only the coupler release components (mostly a giant capacitor).  There's a line scribed on the board (or printed) just to the side of the components that you can use a dremel with a cut-off wheel and literally chop the last inch of length and components off the board without compromising any of the other functionality.  The downside is that you lose the electrocouplers capability unless you're good with a soldering iron and solder jumper wires cross the pads from the main board to the part you cut off.

Just a thought if real estate gets dicey.

Just as Jeff noted above:

Thanks for the encouraging words H1000, but I think Vernon and ThatGuy may have hit the nail on the head!!!

I will have to open her up and just see how much room there is between those two monster can motors. I just imagined there would be plenty of room, going by the size/length of this loco. Didn't factor in the close proximity of the can motors.

Jeff (Jeff the Coaster Guy)....one of the many reasons for installing the PS1 board was so I can enjoy the benefits of proto couplers on this loco....I have become so used to automatic uncoupling from the loco, it is hard to go back to "the hand of God" to uncouple!!!

Alan (Alan Mancus).....the PS1 board I got from Gunrunnerjohn came with the GG1 sound chip, so getting a chip is not an issue. This is the main reason for wanting to do the conversion....I have the Williams GG1 loco, and I have the MTH PS1 board with the correct sound chip, and I make my own BCR's, so everything is covered in that department!!!

When I get some "free time" (Sue has me doing lots of stuff around the house, now that it has stopped raining/storming for a couple of consecutive days) I will open the GG1 up, and just see how much free real estate there is between the two motors.

As I usually say.......Watch This Space!!!

Peter.....Buco Australia.

Not sure but I think the board stack can lay on its side and go diag between the motors. Note the little transistor sticking out the bottom of the board should NOT be grounded to the frame. It should be electrically isolated from the frame but have some kind of heat sink bracket on it to keep it cool.

Thanks NYCBuffalo:

Once I open her up I will then try and arrange the board to fit (somehow). Also know about the mounting component on the bottom board needing to be isolated from the metal chassis, and requiring a "heat sink" to maintain heat building-up in this component.

My initial concern was that the PS1 board and its motor driver would not be strong enough to power the two large can motors found inside these Williams loco's. Seems this will not be a problem???

Peter.....Buco Australia.

@Buco posted:

Thanks NYCBuffalo:

Once I open her up I will then try and arrange the board to fit (somehow). Also know about the mounting component on the bottom board needing to be isolated from the metal chassis, and requiring a "heat sink" to maintain heat building-up in this component.

My initial concern was that the PS1 board and its motor driver would not be strong enough to power the two large can motors found inside these Williams loco's. Seems this will not be a problem???

Peter.....Buco Australia.

The PS/1 board was used in virtually all of the 1990's MTH Premier locomotives, including stuff like the 20 pound Big Boy.  It will handle virtually any O-scale locomotive.  For any diesel model, it'll be loafing as they won't be nearly the weight of the large steam locomotives.

From personal experience, wire the motors in series. Williams motors pull twice as much current as MTH motors.  

@Gerald Jackson posted:

From personal experience, wire the motors in series. Williams motors pull twice as much current as MTH motors.  

Be a little more specific on that call out, ….while yes, older Williams engines with the larger earlier Asian motors are amp hogs, more modern Williams engines use the same motors as the MTH, Lionel, Atlas, and others. ( RS385’s in most cases ) Knowing what motors one is working with here is paramount.

Pat

Also, I've seen Williams models with defective motors that draw 5-6 amps and barely move, mostly in steam models.  They simply need a motor replacement before you'll run them at all!

MISSION ABORTED!!!!

Opened up the GG1.....and thus is what I found!!!

There isn't much room, even with the original "True Blast" Williams stacker boards in there!!!

Held the PS1 board above the can motors, in the location it should go and.......there is no way on Gods Green Earth that PS1 board will ever go in there......even with the cap for the proto coupler removed from the end of the board. Not sideways, not on a diagonal, not any way!!!!!

And yes Pat, you're right......these motors look exactly the same as the ones in any of my MTH RailKing loco's.

Mission Aborted!!!!  Time to re-group.

Peter....Buco Australia.

That's NOT a true blast. No, that is a version or copy Lionel horn board- one of my least favorite, and a Williams blue relay very early reverse board.

Bachmann is still showing them, this is

Diesel Digital True Blast II

Thanks Vernon for setting me straight.....I have a few Williams diesel loco's with the "true blast" feature, and I thought this was just one of them. My fault.

Peter....Buco Australia.