soldering info

I use a temperature controlled iron, mine is 70 watts, but since it controls the temperature, overheating isn't a problem for any size wire.  I typically use either a needle-point tip or a small chisel-tip point for larger stuff.  The bonus is,   I can solder almost any size wire connection with it, but for soldering track or bigger pieces, I use my Weller 100/140W gun.  If I need anything bigger, I have a propane turbo torch.

Thanks

If you're only soldering wires on engines, a 25-40 watt iron should be fine. There's no need to buy an expensive soldering iron setup for sporadic light duty tasks.  If you're going to use the soldering iron daily for a variety of soldering tasks and different wire sizes and solder compositions (a separate topic!), then it would pay to look at more sophisticated irons.  The tip shape is a matter of preference for the user.  I like a chisel shape so I can hold the flat part of the tip against the wires to provide maximum area for heat transfer.  However, I was provided a soldering iron with a chisel tip when I soldered all day at work so I am biased.  Other users answers may vary and none of the answers are wrong; it's a matter of personal preference. Try using the tip that comes with your iron to develop your opinion.  Copper tips can be filed to any shape needed, but iron clad tips cannot (iron tips are more expensive but provide a generally better soldering experience). You can solder successfully with either a copper or iron tip on your soldering iron.

Although there are many options, the most common solder for electrical wiring is 60/40 rosin core solder.  Stay away from acid core solder for wiring.

Finally, wear a pair of glasses or safety glasses when soldering.

Dale

@Pennsylover posted:

Although there are many options, the most common solder for electrical wiring is 60/40 rosin core solder.  Stay away from acid core solder for wiring.

Nowadays I'd recommend the 63/37 rosin core solder.  It has a real advantage, especially for folks that don't do much soldering, it's an eutectic alloy which means that it goes immediately from liquid to solid at one temperature.  That minimizes the occurrence of cold solder joints caused by moving the connection during the transition from liquid to solid.  My preference is the Kester brand, it's what I've used for at least 50 years.

John, your 63/37 solder is a spot on recommendation. I have a spool of 60/40 that I've been using for years so I used that as my reference.  I need to pick up some 63/37 and try it out!

Dale

@Pennsylover posted:

John, your 63/37 solder is a spot on recommendation. I have a spool of 60/40 that I've been using for years so I used that as my reference.  I need to pick up some 63/37 and try it out!

Dale

Gunrunner John is correct. Once you go and use 63/37 rosin core solder, you'll never want to use 60/40 solder again. Works so much better, especially with my arthritic hands and fingers.

@gunrunnerjohn

What brand & model is your “70W / constant temperature” soldering iron ?

thanks to all posters !!!

CB&Q Bill

I have the Hakko FX-888D soldering station.

You really can't go wrong with the Hakko FX888D.  I've had mine for about nine years. Prior to that, I had a 25W Radio Shack pencil iron with a copper tip. I bought it while I was in college and it served me well for 35+ years.  Then my son showed his Hakko to me and I was blown away with the LED display and fast heating time - well under a minute. At that point I decided it was time for a technology upgrade.

Dale

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Nowadays I'd recommend the 63/37 rosin core solder.  It has a real advantage, especially for folks that don't do much soldering, it's an eutectic alloy which means that it goes immediately from liquid to solid at one temperature.  That minimizes the occurrence of cold solder joints caused by moving the connection during the transition from liquid to solid.  My preference is the Kester brand, it's what I've used for at least 50 years.

Thanks for the explanation re 63/37 solder.  What is your preferred temperature setting?

Hey John / Gary - Where are you guys getting Kester 63/37 rosin core ??? - always been a Kester 60/40 person - I have a few small projects coming up

Thank you for the tip

Joe S

@dorfj2 posted:

Hey John / Gary - Where are you guys getting Kester 63/37 rosin core ??? - always been a Kester 60/40 person - I have a few small projects coming up

Thank you for the tip

Joe S

I see it on Amazon.  And boy has solder gotten expensive since the last time I bought some!

I wouldn’t get too hung up on the brand. Back in the day Ersin Multicore was the best. Its really the flux that makes a difference in ease of soldering and thats changed due the scarcity of chlorinated flux cleaners.

Pete

As a person who has been soldering since a kid, starting with one of those wood handle big'uns with the 1/2 diameter rod ending with pyramid tips with 3/8 inch on a side, eventually being taught how to do it right by a USN soldering school,  I use a Weller solder gun most of the time.  I have found its ability to get something to temp fast, solder, and get off the connection, versus a low wattage iron that the connection sinks the heat from initially, and you have to leave the heat on for an extended amount of time before it takes the solder.  Of course I have a good temp controlled unit for circuit boards, but have also used the gun on circuit board connections that have a large area of copper, such as grounds.   One of my favorite model railroad magazine articles was from a fellow who described ye old days, like in the 1930's, and soldering brass engines using a gasoline torch heating a soldering iron.  The hook at the top of those old brass tank torches was to hold that iron in place while the flame heated the tip,  It was not uncommon for the iron to cool too fast, and the brass loco and iron became one.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Nowadays I'd recommend the 63/37 rosin core solder.

Another consideration is the actual size of the solder; for the vast majority of the finer detail work and electrical work that I do I'm using a 0.015" 63/37 solder.  Larger work and I move up to larger solder.

Yep, I use .020" solder for PCB work and .031 solder for general soldering.

@GunrunnerJohn and others, How do you calibrate your Hakko station? Pat B

I bought one of these.  This one is on Aliexpress.com