Sunset 3rd Rail SF 2-10-4 5032

Man that thing needs it's own zip code...  A great looking model.

We need a video of that thing so we can hear it

hello audidriven........

That engine #5032 looks like the size of the big boy !!!!!!!!!   Is the engine heavy and how do you pick up or handle a engine this size, like taking it out of the box, turning it upside down and set it on Bowser cradle to oil the axles bearings and checking the gear box for lube with out bending the fine details or breaking them off ?

From the looks of it, it cannot go on 0-72 or can it ? 

I can't wait to pick up my #5011 in Nov.  

THANK YOU for the photos 

the woman who loves toy trains

Tiffany

One of these days I'll work on a video.

Tiffany, this is a heavy engine for sure.  I always lift my engines by the cylinders and cab roof or under the cab.  Vary rarely will I just pick it up by the sides above the drivers, although I have seen others do that.  You need to know how sturdy and secure the parts are before doing that so I don't recommend it.  

I roll it very carefully on foam and hold the trucks to keep them flopping around and chipping the paint.  Just be careful.

The engine is designed for O-72 curves, but mine wasn't liking them on Saturday.  A friend mentioned that you need to ensure the drivers are all level, which I'll need to check when I have time.  

I hope you enjoy yours. 

Hello audidriven........

From the looks of your #5032, i am very sure that i will love mine  but was not used to the huge size of it LOL.  Is the driver axles sprung ?  I had H.O. scale PFM unpainted brass version of this type back in 1980's and still had to be careful of handling it.  The H.O. scale version needed 40 inch radius curves with the main driver (middle) flanged to run well.  Your #5032 is #1 

the woman who loves toy trains

Tiffany 

Tiffany - Before 3rd Rail sends you the engine, make sure 3rd Rail "unsprings" the drivers.  That was a problem with those engines.  On 0-72 track and a bit above, the drivers will drop down and cause problems.  Scott came out with a modification that cures the problem.

audidriven it's nice to see you brought some class to the Central Connecting Railroad!  I would like to have heard your engine!

Uh oh Tiffany! You made sure the casting wouldn't crumble
and the gearbox was good, but you forgot about the "unsprung driver"problem

You said it was "loud", but did it reproduce the bass notes that make real engines some much fun to listen to?

Well the bass is definitely greater as it's a larger driver and I sealed all of the openings to make it as close to air tight as I could, while still allowing the wires to pass through.  In addition, I lined the shell with sound deadening material.  I guess all I have left to do now is to remove some springs from the drivers.  

Nick,

You shouldn't just remove the springs from your 2-10-4. I had a similar issue with my C&O T-1 2-10-4, and after discussing the issue with Scott, he sent me some VERY small black plastic "plugs". You insert the little plugs in place of the springs, or maybe into the spring, which limits how far the driver axle can move up into the frame. 

I suggest you contact Sunset/3rd Rail tomorrow and discuss the situation with them, and they'll send you the "plug kit". That should solve the problem, and we'll try running it again.

You shouldn't just remove the springs from your 2-10-4. I had a similar issue with my C&O T-1 2-10-4, and after discussing the issue with Scott, he sent me some VERY small black plastic "plugs". You insert the little plugs in place of the springs, or maybe into the spring, which limits how far the driver axle can move up into the frame.

That is the fix I was posting about.  That is the way to fix the problem.

I had the derailment problem on my Sunset J1a (still one of my favorite engines) when the lead driver's springs would drop the height of the engine so much that on O-88 curves the blind middle driver would fall below the rail head, when it hit the straight, the middle driver, now off the rail, couldn't get back on and would derail. I used the plastic plugs only on the forward axle to keep the engine level even on curves and the problem was solved. Problem is the engine is heavier than the spring rates selected. When all five drivers are supporting the engine, no problemo. But on a curve when the middle driver actually floats out over empty space, AND no longer supporting its share of the engine's weight, the engine would droop. A ten-coupled engine with 63" drivers requires a huge turning radius.

The real engine was made with blind center drivers when first built (like the model) and had lateral motion devices to permit the middle axles to slide sideways to adjust for tighter turns. When they refit tires on the engines they went back to a flanged drivers. I guess they figured that the Pennsy had sufficiently wide curves to handle the engine. Of course, this engine and other long wheel-based beasts like the T-1s, S-1, and Q's, all ran on the Western end. People in Philly never got a chance to see these engines in action.

A Baldwin Centipede actually got stuck on the Zoo curve in West Philly. It was a mess and tied up the main line. Baldwin, unfortunately, made diesel engines like their steam engines with big, unbending, monster castings on their under frames and GM didn't. GM won!

Thanks Hot Water and Marker.  I guess I was confused by the "unsprung" comment, but now I know.  My thoughts were the issue just described about the springs not supporting the weight once a set of drivers swung off the rails.

Tiffany, you really want to make sure Scott has your engine checked to confirm it us up to snuff.  I have another friend that said his frame was bent on his and wasn't fixed by the plugs. 

As luck would have it, my Legacy controller stopped working and won't even turn on.  So much for testing my engine any further. 

hello guys and gals.........

Those plastic plugs........ seems like a good idea for those running less than 0-100.  I am glad you guys talked about it as i will have to put them in my #5021 when i go pick it up in Nov. as i didn't know that it is a problem but now i know.   Is there anything else i should know about little fixes before running the engine ?   I am planned to run it on railking real traxx as that the track i have for now but will purchases 0-82 curves, the widest MTH has for the track i already have.  When my husband and i purchase a home sometime next fall, I am planning to switch to Atlas "O" track and wondering what's the min. radius can use to run the #5021 ?   Atlas makes 0-72,0-80,0-90,0-99(if i am correct) and 0-108 curves and the room space is about 15 by 20 foot.

the woman who loves toy trains

Tiffany 

hello guys and gals.........

will the Sunset 3rd santa fe 2-10-4 run ok on 0-82 real trax ?

the woman who loves toy trains

Tiffany

Yes, I run my 3rd rail big boy on 072, abit of an overhang it looks better on 081 or 090

It is a huge engine.

I have an extra set also, since they included an extra with traction tires. I don't think I need any more. A few years ago, I published a thread on what happens when my two-year-old (at the time) grandson, reached out and grabbed the J1 as it passed by. I was holding him in my arms at the time and he did it so fast I couldn't react. The result: The 11 pound monster came down into my leg and then straight to the concrete floor. Result: head light assembly smashed, front left steps bent, and rear of the cab separated from the lower plate.

I ordered a new head light from PSC, reshaped the steps, epoxied the rear plate and repainted the chipped paint. Came out okay. Jack is now 8 and treats trains very carefully. 

Before:

After:

I have each version of 3rd Rails ATSF 5000 class engines and only 1 of them have had issues with the drivers dropping down on 072 curves.   I put small shims on the front and rear drivers that resolved the issue and kept the very nice feature of sprung drivers and still maintains track contact for all drivers.

3rd Rail has little nubs that you can replace the springs with that basically removes the sprung driver effect and makes them all fixed.   Personally I like keeping them sprung.   Just seems more "real" to me.  :-)