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Went over to the little show at the Lincoln Square Mall in Urbana IL, mainly to run G scale live steam with our group.  But, on my 3rd round after running my engine, I found a prewar semi scale PRR B6 set in a tupperware tote on a table.  In overall decent condition with just some minor parts needed.  On a whim I asked how much he was asking, expecting the usual $300+ price I normaly see these for.  He respond with $100 for all of it!   Needless to say, the set came home with me.  I got the 8876 PRR B6 semi scale, 2227B bell tender, 2812 gondola, x2758 PRR auto box car and 477618 PRR caboose.  All have remote box couplers(a couple need replaced due to missing hook or the box part).  The box car needs 3 doors that are missing, tender needs rewired(has a short).  The engine runs good after I serviced it, just needs the two class lights replaced as they are gone.  Whats a good source for prewar parts?  I know postwar and have the books with the part numbers, but going thru prewar parts online without a parts book is a pain in the arse.  The paint/finish on all the pieces is really nice with minimal chipping/play wear.  I think it was a great deal.   Pics tomorrow.     Mike the Aspie

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Its going on tomorrow as well, 11am till 4pm I believe, its posted on the mall's website.  Guy down near our live steam group, has a nice apple green 252 electric with really nice original paint, already rewheeled, for $100.  I would have bought it to but only had enough for the set.   I wont be there tomorrow but others from our group will be running the steam layout.  We are back home, the 4 fur babies here, so no 2 day shows for us.     Mike the Aspie

 

Last edited by artfull dodger

Mike,

 Sounds like you did quite well. As Dave mentioned, the Train Tender is a great source for parts. Looking forward to seeing your pictures. Also, if you search "Lionel 227" on eBay, you can often find parts like the marker lights that are currently for sale at a reasonable price. 

Tom 

Yes Tom, 227 on the smokebox door.  I got everything polished up using an old trick I learned from Rush Harmon Jr when I was his shop tech many years ago, Pledge furniture polish.  Only feature I haven't tried is the automatic couplers that trigger with the whistle button.  I got the E unit to sequence reliability and she runs smooth and pretty quiet as well.  Bell rings when I turn it on.  New power leads for the tender and other missing parts to come soon as I find them.  Train Tender didn't have much of anything I need.  But I did find them on evilbay.     Mike the Aspie

Nice looking car.  I may let my ZW go to finance more tinplate.  Its massive overkill on my little 4x8 single track set up.  I just need to get this RW restored that I got with the Turbine set(its original transfomer).  I have the little 1041 that came with my father's set for building lights.  I put a new cord on it and refreshed its internal wiring last fall.    Mike the Aspie

Many happy memories of Urbana, my wife's grandparents lived there. At one time he worked on the IC and later was a machinist at the U of I.  When we were at Ole Miss we would catch the IC at Batesville and ride to Urbana. It was my first trip by rail and I immediately fell in love with railroading. The first Christmas after we were married my wife gave me my first Lionel and I've been hooked ever since. 

Yes, both front marker lights are broke off.  I have repro replacements found and on order, along with amber jewels for the front and red jewels for the tender.  She runs well.  I just put a new cord on and went thru the filthy RW transformer I got with the 671 Turbine set last fall.  Cleaned up nice and works well.  The ZW is cool, but takes up lots of space on a layout running 1 train.  I did stumble across your article on the basket case 227, was fun to read, I really enjoyed it.    Mike the Aspie

Mike, 

  The right way to mount the marker lights is to drill out the portion of the old post that most likely is still on the locomotive. The downside is that you can go through several drill bits trying to do that. Conversely, I've had good luck with my own method...snipping as much of the new post off near the base, filing it as flat as possible and using an awl and file to make what is left on the locomotive as flat as possible or, even better, slightly indented. Then, I use JB Kwik (which sets fast) to hold the marker lights in place. I have not had any issues with any that I have attached this way and I've done plenty over the last few years. In fact, maybe this should be called the TOM method, "Therapy Of Markers!" (patent pending)  

Tom 

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