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Hello everyone! Things finally picked up the past three days. I finally ran out of rolling stock room so I had to build another shelf. Progress started on Sunday when my father and I went to Lowe’s and picked up the needed lumber. Work paused a bit until Tuesday when we got everything cut and grooved. Finally, this evening we assembled it and filled it with trains. The shelf measures 72” tall by 5 1/2 feet wide. Even with this big of a shelf I still have seven cars with no home!
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Last edited by Trainmaster04

I read about Eric Siegel’s asphalt road technique here on the OGR Forum (I believe in this very thread), and I was intrigued.

I went to his website and thought about trying it since I’m a long way off to scenery details like that…….so, I made a test board……

Eric uses Flexbed…….I used cork since I have a tone of it with some scrap Gargraves….

622A3ACB-F0B8-4444-B7CA-CDDD038B4EB6



1A8598D5-8032-4993-90E6-A724488DC533

…….those are my “modeling rocks” …….I’ve collected them over the years…..they have a flat edge and are less liable to roll when the wind picks up a little……

806890FE-3185-42AC-8C64-3C704B1602EE0DCF7901-753E-42E4-A62F-6830FAFFBDEF

I put the next two pictures because I’m always amazed how little things make a big difference……the only change is that I took a black Sharpie and colored the silver screw head…….



2DC16D30-D2A1-4703-8F2C-B447D5326E240D97D837-C36A-48B5-9BCB-BFEC0BB862FF22A7B499-7020-4F3B-9ADC-BCE0C900F554

…….a thorough alcohol soak……

AAC87DE0-205A-4ED4-ABA3-EECFDEBB3A41475C4E32-758C-4DF7-B060-2AC0A24838768802C1FB-4E14-43AC-924F-B5DD5A61905F

…….next is laying the painted cork roadbed as the foundation of the road......and, making sure it is firmly attached to the layout.....

2DAA9E08-1C18-42D0-A41A-410E442057C0C536D3DF-6529-4022-A650-1DB3E30DF61275D9A1E9-D712-4E6E-8A38-D3A8E0AA28B9

Have a great day!

Peter

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Last edited by Putnam Division

I read about Eric Siegel’s asphalt road technique here on the OGR Forum (I believe in this very thread), and I was intrigued.

I went to his website and thought about trying it since I’m a long way off to scenery details like that…….so, I made a test board……

Eric uses Flexbed…….I used cork since I have a tone of it with some scrap Gargraves….

622A3ACB-F0B8-4444-B7CA-CDDD038B4EB6



1A8598D5-8032-4993-90E6-A724488DC533

…….those are my “modeling rocks” …….I’ve collected them over the years…..they have a flat edge and are less liable to roll when the wind picks up a little……

806890FE-3185-42AC-8C64-3C704B1602EE0DCF7901-753E-42E4-A62F-6830FAFFBDEF

I put the next two pictures because I’m always amazed how little things make a big difference……the only change is that I took a black Sharpie and colored the silver screw head…….



2DC16D30-D2A1-4703-8F2C-B447D5326E240D97D837-C36A-48B5-9BCB-BFEC0BB862FF22A7B499-7020-4F3B-9ADC-BCE0C900F554

…….a thorough alcohol soak……

AAC87DE0-205A-4ED4-ABA3-EECFDEBB3A41475C4E32-758C-4DF7-B060-2AC0A24838768802C1FB-4E14-43AC-924F-B5DD5A61905F

…….next is laying the painted cork roadbed as the foundation of the road......and, making sure it is firmly attached to the layout.....

2DAA9E08-1C18-42D0-A41A-410E442057C0C536D3DF-6529-4022-A650-1DB3E30DF61275D9A1E9-D712-4E6E-8A38-D3A8E0AA28B9

Have a great day!

Peter

He did I think two parts with the road. One was just describing what he used, the other he actually did it. It was interesting because he actually had made a scene where they road was tore up and you could see the pipe under the road. He had road workers all in there working to add to the scene. It was very interesting.

That's the one I watched.....it's fabulous! It's a great technique, but more importantly, well explained and detailed.....he put a ton of effort into it and did a great job!

Peter

Yeah, a few of his videos in the past after he had some of his roads in, he would sort of touch on it and say that one of these days he would have to show how it was done. He still has a project on the books that I don't think he has done from way back when to when his channel was maybe a few years old. I don't remember what it was though, I'd have to watch through his videos again to find that one.

Next step in the "Asphalt Project"

I'm going to start on one side.......taping comes 1st.

C50B3FA4-8197-40A0-85D9-D7B5BBE92008

.....just a small list of ingredients.....

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Make small batches.....glue 1st, then add the cinders......mix it up until the stirrer sticks up on its own......

(by the way, my stirrer is "classic Lionel".......it was a stained, water-logged and discarded tab from a box that held the tell-talepoles from the Wabash brakeman car)

242EB533-1D57-487C-9246-124A5EC15905

Apply it with a putty knife.......this is wet, just after application.....I didn't make a big enough batch.....I just stopped there to see how it goes.....

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After about 6 hours.....

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After 24 hours......

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This is a great technique and I really want to thank Eric Siegel for all the time he took in making the video. I highly recommend it. It is a great instructional video, extremely clear and well executed.

I'm pretty much a klutz, and, if I can do it, anyone can with a little practice.

I plan to finish this side; practice the technique of inside the rails; and, do the other side as a demo for the modular club.....

Have a great day and weekend folks......

Peter

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Last edited by Putnam Division

Next step in the "Asphalt Project"

I'm going to start on one side.......taping comes 1st.

C50B3FA4-8197-40A0-85D9-D7B5BBE92008

.....just a small list of ingredients.....

EDB8036C-615A-4A52-A181-F63367A58CD7

Make small batches.....glue 1st, then add the cinders......mix it up until the stirrer sticks up on its own......

(by the way, my stirrer is "classic Lionel".......it was a stained, water-logged and discarded tab from a box that held the tell-talepoles from the Wabash brakeman car)

242EB533-1D57-487C-9246-124A5EC15905

Apply it with a putty knife.......this is wet, just after application.....I didn't make a big enough batch.....I just stopped there to see how it goes.....

BB33E55A-A677-4F10-BD1C-33E5F2F5EFA3_1_201_a

After about 6 hours.....

6773D209-89D9-4E18-8D46-DDC593BADC89

After 24 hours......

C302E42C-5749-4997-980E-627881A59BDE

This is a great technique and I really want to thank Eric Siegel for all the time he took in making the video. I highly recommend it. It is a great instructional video, extremely clear and well executed.

I'm pretty much a klutz, and, if I can do it, anyone can with a little practice.

I plan to finish this side; practice the technique of inside the rails; and, do the other side as a demo for the modular club.....

Have a great day and weekend folks......

Peter

Peter, where is your O Scale Steam Roller? Oh, and the crew to smooth it out and fill the potholes if they miss any rolling?

@leapinlarry in your layout photo today is the Santa Fe the El Capitan Lionel 6-36000?

Whether or not, I’ve  decided to call mine the zinc rot special.  I love the look of the Santa Fe  engine and it’s B units.  The motor has good pulling capacity.  The speeds an engine sounds are truly enjoyable. The three passenger cars are fun to run.

The rot has taken over each side of the trucks and each ABB unit.  It’s a 2003 Christmas vintage and the rot began 5 years ago… it’s like one evening I will pick the cars from the shelf an it says…surprise it’s me again.

I like all of your signs as decorations as well Larry 😊

@Putnam Division, sad to see ellipses have invaded your articulate and entertaining prose.

Repaired the decal mistake on the NP NCL diner by removing the misplaced "Vista-Dome (MONDAD) North Coast Limited" script and car numbers; respraying the light green below the white stripe; and, applying new decals on one side.  I'll do the remaining side tomorrow.

Also, test sprays of Dullcote and Glosscote blends are almost complete; then I'll choose the blend and spray the 8 cars that are done.  Then it will be installing LED strip lighting; regulators; interiors; etc. in final assembly for the baggage, mail-dormitory, diner, sleeper, four offset dome, and observation/sleeper/lounge cars.

Finally got around to repairing the club's LIONEL M of W Track Cleaning Car, 6-26835, and will give it a work out tomorrow morning.  Interestingly, the Owner's Manual basically says it needs a twin-motor locomotive to pull it around; a single motor is unlikely to get the job done.  Should clarify that a scale Big Boy gets the job done, also.

Photos soon.

@Putnam Division- I'm curious to see how the tape releases from the edge of the pavement Peter. I like that you're practicing scenery work before benchwork is even started..... I did my roads with some thin cardboard and a textured black spray paint. You can see the edge of the cardboard in the foreground. Some gravel and ground foam easily blends it in.  I'm happy with the results for now, but Eric's method makes more realistic looking blacktop.

2022-01-23 20.49.532018-01-16 07.09.53


@Trainmaster04- great scene!
@Pingman- glad you were able to repair the error Carl.
@leapinlarry- never get tired of looking at pix of your great layout and train cave.

Well, hopefully a hot and humid weekend means I can stay indoors in a cool room (eg- basement), where coincidentally my trains live, and get my F3's done (I've heard that before).

2022-07-23 08.29.53

Bob

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Bob the engines look cool and ready to depart.

Peter I showed the “Eric” road to Paula. I think it looks good. She is digesting it and I expect to hear back from her before the road contractors arrive again.


On our layout, the right side Roanoke Shops area is complete. Next we shift left, to an area of mountains and valleys in SW Virginia to Bluefield. And somewhere we have to add a Hatteras lighthouse, beach with ladies clamming, and glimpses of Manteo, Suffolk, and Tidewater.

Level one track, ballast, etc has been done for two years. No tunnels, retaining walls, etc yet. Levels 2 and 3 are nothing more than track endings from the right side. We have plenty of room to add levels 2 and 3.



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Saturday July 16  Paula, Rich, and I, met and determined what to do next. Clean up was first, then passenger station renovation, followed by additional electrical, (another ZWL, TIU, AIUs, relays, etc.) After that comes the new track work which is finally something exciting and fun.


Since Rich was here, we removed the top two pieces of the Harry Heike designed and built Roanoke passenger station including a complete interior. It was set in place 4-5 years ago with the hope that one day we would be ready to install it. Naturally we want a few interior changes. The front upper level was brought into the house and set on a work table. Paula calls it the Breakfast Room table.



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We began the week by cleaning up, relocating, throwing away, and consolidating, valuable stuff. Thank goodness for the second floor. 6:30 is a good time to relocate. The steamy 90s are here.

Yesterday the three of us met again and decided on a few changes, took measurements, and figured out how to accomplish the task. I started on the project after Rich left. Remember, the interior of this building was complete except for a few changes. Here is how it looks now:



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Paula asked me about working on the electrical next week after we complete the station. “Uh Paula, Poor Girl should be fixed today. We plan to run her tomorrow and fish a day during the week. Thursday is meetings.”

We will keep you updated.

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Last edited by Bill Webb

Next step in the "Asphalt Project"

I'm going to start on one side.......taping comes 1st.



.....just a small list of ingredients.....



Make small batches.....glue 1st, then add the cinders......mix it up until the stirrer sticks up on its own......

(by the way, my stirrer is "classic Lionel".......it was a stained, water-logged and discarded tab from a box that held the tell-talepoles from the Wabash brakeman car)



Apply it with a putty knife.......this is wet, just after application.....I didn't make a big enough batch.....I just stopped there to see how it goes.....



After about 6 hours.....



After 24 hours......



This is a great technique and I really want to thank Eric Siegel for all the time he took in making the video. I highly recommend it. It is a great instructional video, extremely clear and well executed.

I'm pretty much a klutz, and, if I can do it, anyone can with a little practice.

I plan to finish this side; practice the technique of inside the rails; and, do the other side as a demo for the modular club.....

Have a great day and weekend folks......

Peter

Hi Peter, I also use the Eric Siegel (Erics Trains) method for my streets, but with a twist. I didn't use the track road bed for my streets, I put the asphalt mix directly on my layout. I used foam tape about 1/8" thick and some cheap yard sticks (and/or the sidewalk) as a border on each side of the street. I also made a concrete bridge from scratch using plane old drywall patch. The triple RR crossing is an exception to putting the asphalt directly on the layout, I used 1/16" thick wood from track ballast to track ballast and then applied the asphalt mixture. Then I used drywall patch on each side of the wood and then added dirt and plants.

Here's a few photos when I just started to make the streets.





Finished streets today:



Here's the hybrid RR crossings. The blue circle is Eric's method but I ran out of white glue and had to add some water to thin out the asphalt mix, so the asphalt turned out sort of glossy as Eric mentions in his video. I recommend not using water to the mix, just white glue if needed. The white circle is the new method I used, I posted it somewhere in this thread. I used HO scale cork road bed in between the tracks and cork cupboard shelf liner that I bought at Home Depot for the road. All I had to do was cut the cork to size and paint the cork with Woodland Scenics asphalt paint. The cork cupboard shelf liner has adhesive on the back already, but I used some super glue on the edges as well. Just another option, I think the cork looks almost as good as Eric's method.

Also note, I used wooden RR crossings on the first 3 crossings. My layout is supposed to be '50's and '60's and wood crossings were typical where I lived at that time.

Looks like you don't need much more practice before you start roads on your layout, you post looks like you've got it down!

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Hi Peter, I also use the Eric Siegel (Erics Trains) method for my streets, but with a twist. I didn't use the track road bed for my streets, I put the asphalt mix directly on my layout. I used foam tape about 1/8" thick and some cheap yard sticks (and/or the sidewalk) as a border on each side of the street. I also made a concrete bridge from scratch using plane old drywall patch. The triple RR crossing is an exception to putting the asphalt directly on the layout, I used 1/16" thick wood from track ballast to track ballast and then applied the asphalt mixture. Then I used drywall patch on each side of the wood and then added dirt and plants.

Here's a few photos when I just started to make the streets.





Finished streets today:



Here's the hybrid RR crossings. The blue circle is Eric's method but I ran out of white glue and had to add some water to thin out the asphalt mix, so the asphalt turned out sort of glossy as Eric mentions in his video. I recommend not using water to the mix, just white glue if needed. The white circle is the new method I used, I posted it somewhere in this thread. I used HO scale cork road bed in between the tracks and cork cupboard shelf liner that I bought at Home Depot for the road. All I had to do was cut the cork to size and paint the cork with Woodland Scenics asphalt paint. The cork cupboard shelf liner has adhesive on the back already, but I used some super glue on the edges as well. Just another option, I think the cork looks almost as good as Eric's method.

Also note, I used wooden RR crossings on the first 3 crossings. My layout is supposed to be '50's and '60's and wood crossings were typical where I lived at that time.

Looks like you don't need much more practice before you start roads on your layout, you post looks like you've got it down!

Excellent!

Peter

Slowly moving forward with plastic printed McKeen car and extra body back (which has been used to create a McKeen  auto bus on an extended Corgi Mack AB  chassis.)  Period photos show a McKeen bodied auto bus outside their Omaha shops.  That model is approaching completion. Detailing the rail McKeen car is taking longer .  Dunno if work-in-progress photos of these are useful, as bus is nearing completion. (Am wondering if Corgi Mack chassis could be three-rail powered.....pre-war styled school bus bodies appear uncommon).

@RSJB18 posted:

Sorry to see that! Any chance of an alternate lease location? Is the landlord somewhat reasonable?

I was just chatting with @harmonyards about the same topic of conversation.

Unfortunately the CEO has pulled “eminent domain” and the available land has been razed for repurposing.  A cry to the masses yielded a 4-to-2 loss in the public vote when it was just me and my brother in law in favor. My father in law got the stink eye from my wife’s mother and apologized. 😝

221528A0-0DD7-46AB-B70E-1C5652AD2A02

Winterized Fastrack anyone?

- Mario

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Repaired, again, the club's LIONEL M of W Track Cleaner car.  The molded mounting stud for the lever assembly had broken.

Used my TMCC-equiped, twin-motor, MPC-era MR F-3A to pull it around the layout -- it's in the Owners Manual that Lionel  first tells the buyer that a single motor loco probably lacks the power to pull it around the layout!

IMG_20220723_080521920IMG_20220723_080507475

We're redoing the Lemax Carnival ride animations on our traveling layout so those were tested and replacements were located for purchase.

The second side of my NP NCL diner was redecalled and is now ready for clear coat.

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I never have liked the look of track just hanging in the air on the trestle sets so I started cutting out some roadbed. I haven't cut any roadbed like this in a very long time, since dad and I were building our L-girder layout. It isn't my best work but it will work.

I agree Cody,

Click here for some of my thoughts on avoiding "floating tracks":

Avoiding the "Floating Track" Look (warrenvillerailroad.com)

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