@Richie C. posted:Looks good, Lee. Does this make any sense ? You could delete a siding or two to make more room for buildings, terminals, vehicles, etc.
Richie glad you asked I’m going to be adding more buildings on the old part and new part. The old part will have more small town buildings and the new will have more industrial ones. I will also be adding 4 more feet to the place I just got done. I still have lots of room in my garage to add on if need. Thanks for the idea through.
@Richie C. posted:Bought the OGR/Ameritowne grab bag and assembled three pieces for a flat to fill a bare wall spot on my layout.
Sanded the mating surfaces smooth and even and glued them together with CA glue and an accelerator. Then spray painted it with dark brown and applied some Roberts Brick & Mortar. I then hand painted some details - cornice, base, window tops, door and transom and applied some weathering and some extra decals I had. Finally shot everything with dullcoat (Tamiya TS-80 flat clear). The window backing was made from a large section cut out of a clear, frosted sticker sheet that I spray painted the back side with a light blue and sealed with white and just peeled it off and stuck it on the back.
I also picked up the Ameritowne loading dock and painted the base and legs a dark brown and the top a lighter brown. Added black lines between the boards with a fine tip ballpoint pen. I painted the stairs a dark concrete color and added red to simulate brick risers. Finished with some weathering and dullcoat. I'll add some people and crates later.
Richie. I like those building fronts you have and that platform
I didn’t realize how derelict I have been on this topic until I saw I had 61 emails dating back to Friday! Wow! Excellent projects everyone!
I finally put away all the Christmas buildings, snow blanket, Polar Express, and put up this spring time setup for Mrs B with a Pittsburgh Port Authority PCC car from MTH running!
Ran this MTH Hudson after I got done with the landscaping yesterday
Got the base coat on my next project. The former Larry’s truck and electric 1417. Once I was hired we had it at the CSO, tired to give it to the PW and NECR. Finally it’s now over at York. This engine was and maybe still needs to be scrapped. But it was the first engine I got to work on. So bought a Atlas O TMCC GP-15 and finally started to work on it a year and half later. 
Moved the two windows in the station bump out sidewalls. Took some time and planning, but it was worth it. Finally went out and bought another quart of Acetone. These stations are made of ABS plastic and Acetone is the solvent and is working much better and faster than Super Glue for bonding parts back together.....
Pingman you were dead right, Thanks !
Before:
After:
Chris, that looks much better! It made an excellent building better.
Ran trains! 👍after several weeks while I was working on the corner it's obvious that the track has gotten dirty.
Cris. Moving the widows down on you're station I'm sure was a lot of extra work however I know you'll never regret it. You're station looks really nice. Super.
Thanks FarmerJohn and Mark, While it was time consuming, it definitely sharpened my skills so it was a "TWO FER".... Definitely feeling more confident about doing major surgery on ABS plastic walls/windows/cornices... Remembered a trick I use at work all the time with the table saw, as you can't well definitely shouldn't feed stock from the exit side as the blade pulls stock out of your hands etc.... as the walls were mirror image, one side I was able to feed, the other side, not so much as I didn't cut all the way from top to bottom.... So
I lowered the blade, clamped the part to the fence securely and then raised the blade to make the cut ! Works as well with plastic as it does with wood windows.
Great work everyone! Chris, what an improvement to your station just by moving the windows down, Looks great!
Mark, I was wondering where you were? LOL I hope things are going well!
Bob the finished product looks outstanding!
I havent done anything but I hope that changes soon! I hope everyone is having a good week sofar! Remember to try and have fun!
@chris a posted:Moved the two windows in the station bump out sidewalls. Took some time and planning, but it was worth it. Finally went out and bought another quart of Acetone. These stations are made of ABS plastic and Acetone is the solvent and is working much better and faster than Super Glue for bonding parts back together.....
Pingman you were dead right, Thanks !
@chris a, you're a heckofa modeler! Fantastic improvement! Glad you were able to execute the adjustment, though I didn't understand the explanation of how you did it.
@mike g. posted:Great work everyone! Chris, what an improvement to your station just by moving the windows down, Looks great!
Mark, I was wondering where you were? LOL I hope things are going well!
Bob the finished product looks outstanding!
I haven't done anything but I hope that changes soon! I hope everyone is having a good week so far! Remember to try and have fun!
Mike, Thank you. We have been doing well. I had some other tasks to do that weren't layout related. I did get my second bridge in, but wanted to do one more thing before taking photographs. I should be able soon.
Chris, Looks great. Now I have another suggestion (easy for me to make as i'm not doing the work!). Inasmuch from looking at the design of the whole building and having passed through many old RR stations, I'm guessing in reality the center section of the station would be a large atrium area in the interior. Hence it needs more natural light. So how about adding small windows above the now lowered arch windows?
Chris - the station looks great as is. Since I'm not doing the work, a major task would be to make the crown molding line up between the wings and central entrance or remove the crown molding from the central entrance. Just kidding, if you listen to all of us you'll never finish.
Chris- The station looks much better. I've done that table saw trick a few times too. I bit time consuming to set up but it works. How did the plastic handle the heat from the blade?
Bob
@lee drennen posted:Richie. I like those building fronts you have and that platform
Thanks, Lee - that Mack (posted before) in the background is sweet, too.
Even though the main layout is in limbo, testing needs to be done, so a temporary oval has been set up. (which, come to think of it, is how things got started fifteen years or so ago.)
The patient in question is a rather down on its luck 1130 that was gifted to me by a co-worker at the A&M RR. After spending a portion of the day rehabbing the E-unit, I determined that the motor was too tired. Fortunately, I had a spare which I'd gotten running some weeks back, so I swapped the wiring harness over and now the Scout buzzeth about cheerfully! I have a trailing truck on order, and will be fabricating marker lights from Plastruct tubing... 
Naturally, you-know-who entered the scene.
Norma Bates Kitteh insisted on Train, so I obliged her.
With the weather getting nicer, I plan on getting the Homasote installed and painted, and new track laid. Watch this space! ;-)
Mitch
Does this count? I am so new, and rattled, at this modelling, and I marvel in your projects... I've run strips of pine from scraps of shelving. Help me make something I can be proud of and "looks" not-too-bad- for a newb. I can slice the strips and ends for more "Scale-like", as that has been a hurtle for me in prior shared posts. I think I have "Traditional Lionel Post War O-Gauge" on the carpet layout.... and understanding that alot of the lionel bridges, crossbucks and, well, everything LIONEL is not scale... I would like the engine, when it passes through a wooden tunnel/bridge, with room enough for two lionel three rail tube tracks, to look like it belongs. This will be moveable, on the carpet layout, and while I am still learning what is interesting in layouts (up a notch from our Christmas tree Circle Track) to be able to have two trains crossing the bridge in opposite directions sounds interesting.
AND, this is a sign that I am improving my scope of thinking, "EWE Mountain" might could have a wooden entrance and exit that would tie in the look of a wooden trestle/bridge/crossing.
Am I being to broad in thinking this out before I start this time.? This will be The Bridge, Part 7, ver 1x
lol. All comments welcomed. I am eager to learn, and a module-carpet-layout is where I am at today... adding buildings and tunnels and mountains "OH MY".
Thank you in advance. Should I move this to another heading?
Scott, Fortescue is right.
What I did on my layout today was - pack up the trains ! We are changing basements to one 1300 miles away ! The new basement (trainroom portion) is 12 x 25 with an extra 12 x 12 room that my wife said I should take for layout expansion as well. It will be awhile before track laying occurs as there’s always stuff to do to a new house but it’s exciting to plan for what’s to come. Our new town has an active rail line (RC, P & E) and a restored depot so that’s cool too. So thanks in the meantime for letting me look over the shoulders of folks who are actively doing some modeling - I’ll join you as soon as I can !
Miggy . What are you asking. If it has to do with trains the sky is the limit. Two lines on bridges or whatever. 
@farmerjohn posted:Miggy . What are you asking. If it has to do with trains the sky is the limit. Two lines on bridges or whatever.
WHOA! My Fear-of-Heights-flight-button was hit with those awesome photos!! Well, John, With a bag of strips and a carpet layout, I want to try a "Baby Wooden Bridge Build".. crawling before walking.
So, ill look for a Photo of simple bridge, decide on what size timbers and height and width bridge so My Traditional Lionel O gauge engines looks like they fit, then start gluing? Yeah, scratch building is new to me. I guess i jump into the wrong part of the process and chuck it in the trash.
Lol, SO, ill try a two track bridge, span about 20 inches..... that looks cool... so I can post a photo to be proud of beginning modelling. <smile> (Hmm slice strips to 1 inch square? nooo, hmmm, rounded? no, hmmmmm, flush? nooooo.. (Fortesque , HELP)
WOW, I need to sit a min until my vertigo passes. Thanks, great photos
Scott, you and Jimmy Stewart with the vertigo! LOL. You are on the right track, whatever looks good to you is correct. If it looks good with your traditional trains, then you are good as gold. As your skills improve with experience, then you may wish to replace it, or you may stick with this bridge for the rest of your life! In O gauge trains, feel free to be creative. Nothing is wrong if you like it.
My “Northland” project is currently at a standstill. Discovered that the decals I printed were too transparent to show against the dark pullman green color of the car. I need opaque print decals which required me to make a custom order. Hard to find O scale decals for DM&IRR passenger equipment. The car is painted and glossed and awaiting the decal delivery. Since I will have extra decals, I bought another pullman coach on eBay to run as DM&IRR #33. That will give me a 3 car train (local) when I am finished.
Got my second Covid shot! Now I'm looking forward to the time we can all gather and travel safely and enjoy the new normal. Until then, wash your hands, don't touch your face and wear your mask in public!
Cheers, Dave
Took a bunch of photos of TPRR and posted there. The paver sand worked out OK to fill in areas. Regarding chicken grit - IMO - it works OK and looks pretty decent when down. However it is very jagged and makes spreading it troublesome and some are just the right size to lodge in frogs and points. Those have to be hand picked out. It is decomposed granite so I suppose it could be tumbled to round off the sharper edges and end up with a more uniform aggregate. Jeff
@ScoutingDad posted:Took a bunch of photos of TPRR and posted there. The paver sand worked out OK to fill in areas. Regarding chicken grit - IMO - it works OK and looks pretty decent when down. However it is very jagged and makes spreading it troublesome and some are just the right size to lodge in frogs and points. Those have to be hand picked out. It is decomposed granite so I suppose it could be tumbled to round off the sharper edges and end up with a more uniform aggregate. Jeff
Hey Jeff, your posting privileges on this thread should be withdrawn until you walk us through how you built that amazingly realistic girder bridge out of cardstock. It is a “what I did on my layout today” thread, after all. LOL!
You guys are a tough crowd. Just posted an explanation in TPRR - also I posted the bridge construction on this topic back on page 943. also I did get the idea from RSJB18 (Bob) The printable bridge was a download and cost a few bucks. Have fun building - it is tedious - and you will glue your fingers together at least once. Jeff
@ScoutingDad posted:You guys are a tough crowd. Just posted an explanation in TPRR - also I posted the bridge construction on this topic back on page 943. also I did get the idea from RSJB18 (Bob) The printable bridge was a download and cost a few bucks. Have fun building - it is tedious - and you will glue your fingers together at least once. Jeff
Who knew that making paper dolls when we were little would pay off later on life. 😂🤪😂🤪
Happy to inspire Jeff 👍
Darlander, the Northland Observation car looks fantastic !!! Really nice work.. Bummer about the decals, but you'll get there.
FarmerJohn, Keep sharing photographs of that amazing railroad, it's inspiring !!
RSJB18 (Bob) , you asked me about how the plastic does when I cut it on the table saw. I have had an overall good experience with the Freud blades. They are carbide tipped and coated with a teflon based coating (Red in Color). I have been using a 60 tooth 7 1/4 inch blade can be bought at HomeDepot for $20.. Today I had to cut the entire back/front walls off the wings on the station. Took a long time to set it up on the table saw so that I could rotate the building and keep the cuts aligned perfectly. I decided after the first wall was removed to take out my favorite 10 inch Freud blade, and I was surprised how well it did. It's a Freud 1084, it's made to cut melamine, MDF veneered with a thin plastic formica like surface. The 10 inch blade did a great job, I ended up cutting through both walls full height and about 3 inches across the roof. I finished cutting the roof with a sharp hacksaw blade 32 tpi. Just didn't want a loose section of building riding between fence and the blade. Accident looking for a place to happen !
I buy the Freud 1084 (10 inch diameter, 84 tooth blade ) on Amazon when they reduce the price to about $48 to $49. It's an amazing saw blade with 3 different profiles on the carbide tips, but the resulting cuts are incredibly smooth. I wouldn't say no melting occurred, but it was very minimal and I have found it's best to scrape off the little bit of melted residue with your fingernail or block of wood as soon as it comes off the saw while it's still warm. I do use this same blade on the chop saw to make miter cuts, and it works great.
Not much to photograph tonight, spent a lot of time cutting parts today and tried some ideas for the front upper facade which I thought would improve the front elevation, but "not so much"... That's OK, it was one of those ideas I really wanted to explore and there was only one way to do it and see if it added any value. Will get back to it tomorrow.
Leapin Larry asked me about my coal mining area. I live in western KY so coal mines are everywhere. Underground and strip mines are the norm depending on depth. The coal on my layout came from under my family farm when it was stripped several years ago. If I had the time to do over I would have never signed the lease but so be it. Can't change it now.
@farmerjohn posted:Leapin Larry asked me about my coal mining area. I live in western KY so coal mines are everywhere. Underground and strip mines are the norm depending on depth. The coal on my layout came from under my family farm when it was stripped several years ago. If I had the time to do over I would have never signed the lease but so be it. Can't change it now.
I grew up by gravel pits and my grandpa pulled the cars out to the main line. Great scene and I like the Super O track.
Morning guys, sure is some great work going on!
Chris a. Thanks for all the information you are sharing with the rest of us! Your train Station is looking amazing!
Farmer John, what a great coal mine scene! When I got out of the Marines one of my first jobs was driving off road dump trucks at a local coal mine.
Well I got a little time in the train room yesterday after my CEO list of things to do. Which turned out to be a winner for me. I was able to get a VCR/DVD player holder for the train room which gave me a work platform and most of the layout is taken now by scenery. Here are a couple photos so you can see what I did.
First off I am like the rest of you and hate legs on the layout as they always seem to get in the way, but I needed this one.
SO I could get my VCR/DVD holder mounted.
Now I have a nice little work station with power right there! I can now stop trying to find places on top of the layout to do little projects.
I hope you all had a great week and even a better weekend planned! Please stay safe and try to make sure you find time to have fun on your layout and with your trains!
@farmerjohn posted:Leapin Larry asked me about my coal mining area. I live in western KY so coal mines are everywhere. Underground and strip mines are the norm depending on depth. The coal on my layout came from under my family farm when it was stripped several years ago. If I had the time to do over I would have never signed the lease but so be it. Can't change it now.
WOW, Unexpected. "Bridges and trestles and Coalmines.. OH MY!" excellent.... just wow. wow
Cut a piece of .060 polystyrene to a 2" x 4" size and painted it to match my Lionel Ice Station. Added B&M signage in an old fashioned font printed on clear sticker paper and glued the whole sign to the side of the ice station.
That swing-out work area is a great idea, Mike.
I haven't posted anything in a LONG time because I was working for the past 5 months on a Great Lakes ore boat for my harbor area. It all started with an idea and a set of plans I purchased from the Bay. The boat is nearly 375 scale feet long and 50 feet wide in 1/50 scale. LOA is 92 X 10 inches. Plans were 1/100th and I enlarged them 2X on my printer.
The keel is a piece of 1X10X1/2" OSB to which I screwed and glued 1/2X4" poplar. The bow and stern was made from 3/4" aspen rough cut with a coping saw, sandwiched together then all hand carved using only a 1-1/2 inch chisel.
Afterwards they were attached to the hull with many screws and wood glue. The deck is a piece of 1/8 inch hardboard glued and nail down to the hull. Holes were cut into the deck using a home made jig and a Mototool and a spiral up cutting bit.
The entire boat was skinned with 0.020 styrene I had from when I worked for K Mart that were signs they used to promote flu shots. They were attached with contact cement.
The forecastle and stern cabins were made from foam board also skinned with styrene. The boat is nearly 99% scatch built with the only commercial pieces are the windows and doors on the cabins coming from old lionel 4 wheel bobber cabooses, the hatches from the same (cupola roofs), and the handrail stanchions and stairs from a Plasticville coaling station with hand formed rails. The smoke stack is a piece of plumbing pipe, masts are dowels. The ore load in the hold is Styrofoam insulation formed into mounds then covered with plaster soaked handi-wipes.
Painting was accomplished using rattle cans with appropriate masking. The boat was then set into position and water was built up around it using white glue and toilet paper for waves then coated with 5 coats of gloss water based acrylic finish.
I still have a little bit of work on it, finishing the railings and adding a smoke unit to the stack.
I christened the boat the Kermit Lesocki, for our pest control guy's dog that passed away last year. He was influential in getting my wife to open the purse strings and let me build my layout.
I was a little bit long winded but open you like it. Have many more photos but don't want to overload the post.
OUTSTANDING!! People don't realize how big those ore boats are until they build (try to build) one in scale. I knew a fellow who insisted on building one for his HO layout; After downsizing it a bit, it was 3' plus in length. I dubbed it the "Eddie Fitzgerald".
Nice job on the build. The ill fated Edmund Fitzgerald taconite freighter was 729 feet long - imagine trying to dedicate over 15 feet of layout space to that! Of course if you model containers and want a port facility, the large ships are now 1200 feet long - 25 scale feet.
Thirdrail What a MAGNIFICENT modeling job, just outstanding. My son who worked for the US Merchant Marine was crew a USNS fast logistics ship that he took me on a tour of once and it was only 450 ft long and I thought it enormous. Modeltrainparts and Scouting Dad...if I had to model the Edmund Fitzgerald it would be longer than my layout and the stern would be in the backyard!! (LOL) .
Best Regards
Don
.
Boats of this size actually plied the Great Lakes before the construction of the Welland Canal. They would bring ore from Labrador to the mills in Ontario or the U. S.. I have a book about early lake boats, most were built in the late 1800's early 1900's. My boat plans called for an 8 foot length but I had to reduce the size by removing one hatch to the hold.
This was an intense build, took a long time even though I worked on it part time.
Here are a few more pictures.
I need to rig the masts and spar, add more railings. I tried wire for the rigging but didn't like the outcome. I'm off to Wally World to look for elastic thread or dark colored fishing line.
Thanks for all the positive comments. Makes my work appreciated.
Try Scenic Express - they have some wire line that may work for you.
As mentioned, the Great lakes, and the winds, from the north, can be some of the most treacherous water, in the world. The Edmund Fitzgerald went down, all hands on board, 15 minutes. Great model, thanks you for posting the pictures. Mike CT.
A discussion a couple of days ago, about a posted picture, of a blast furnace, on facebook. Even today, we still do steel, from blast furnace/Basic Oxygen furnace production, to product steel, without the impurities, of electric arc furnace/scrap metal. Iron Ore from the, Upper Peninsula of Michigan, would travel the lakes, to some steel facility.
Again, great model, Thank you, Mike CT
@third rail posted:Thanks for all the positive comments. Makes my work appreciated.
An amazing build Bill. You should be very proud. As other have said that is a beast. I remember my Uncle Bill was doing a model of the USS Constitution. He worked on it for years, including all the rigging. It was an impressive model.
Bob
@third rail posted:I haven't posted anything in a LONG time because I was working for the past 5 months on a Great Lakes ore boat for my harbor area. It all started with an idea and a set of plans I purchased from the Bay. The boat is nearly 375 scale feet long and 50 feet wide in 1/50 scale. LOA is 92 X 10 inches. Plans were 1/100th and I enlarged them 2X on my printer.
The keel is a piece of 1X10X1/2" OSB to which I screwed and glued 1/2X4" poplar. The bow and stern was made from 3/4" aspen rough cut with a coping saw, sandwiched together then all hand carved using only a 1-1/2 inch chisel.
Afterwards they were attached to the hull with many screws and wood glue. The deck is a piece of 1/8 inch hardboard glued and nail down to the hull. Holes were cut into the deck using a home made jig and a Mototool and a spiral up cutting bit.
Wow, you have been busy!! Great and impressive project!! Well done! Thanks for sharing!
Cheers, Dave
@third rail posted:I haven't posted anything in a LONG time because I was working for the past 5 months on a Great Lakes ore boat for my harbor area.
Exquisite work! Bravo!
Not much doing around here. Got the gearbox cleaned and regreased on my Frisco Geep, so that's running smoothly, and the Texas Special is settled in at the museum layout.
Does anybody have any spare whistle or horn relays? I have some projects, but, being on a fixed income, can't really justify spending $35 a pop on eBay...
Thanks!
Mitch
Excellent job Bill!! Very impressive!
I finally got both my lift up bridges working. I am following Mike g.'s design. I'm very thankful he shared drawings and photographs with me. I have not done any wiring yet. The linear actuator is powered by my old Lionel DC Type 0100 variable DC power supply I bought to run my HO train back in the late '60s. In the video I am holding the smart phone camera and controlling the supply so I don't crash into the ceiling. I have not turned the track power on since I started this project, so don't worry about crashing trains into the gorge.
Excellent job Mark, you should feel relieved and satisfied it turned out so well. Kudos to Mike g for the inspiration and direction.
Steve
@Mark Boyce posted:I finally got both my lift up bridges working. I am following Mike g.'s design. I'm very thankful he shared drawings and photographs with me. I have not done any wiring yet. The linear actuator is powered by my old Lionel DC Type 0100 variable DC power supply I bought to run my HO train back in the late '60s. In the video I am holding the smart phone camera and controlling the supply so I don't crash into the ceiling. I have not turned the track power on since I started this project, so don't worry about crashing trains into the gorge.
Great job Mark. I bet your glad to have that project in the rearview mirror.
Bob
@Richie C. posted:Try Scenic Express - they have some wire line that may work for you.
I've been using K&S 0.032 piano wire in 3 foot lengths. It fits perfectly into the handrail stanchion "divot " . All the local hobby shops near me are out of stock. Went as far as O'hare airport 50 miles to des plaines and also Chicagoland hobbies for some. Only have 12" lengths in stock. Next time it's Walt's in Joliet.
@Mark Boyce posted:I finally got both my lift up bridges working. I am following Mike g.'s design.
Very nice job. I like the smoothness of the operation and the details.
Thank you, Steve and Bob. Yes, I am glad, there was a lot of trial and error on this one. I should have a better time with all the wiring.
Mark, nice to see the bridges lifting so cleanly. I though the actuators were pneumatic. Given enough pressure you could raise those bridges in about a millisecond. Of course the sudden stop might take them into the next room, so slower is probably better. Nice work. Jeff
Jeff, the actuator can operate at 12 volts. I was operating it at less than 8 volts. Without the limit switches in service, I didn’t want to go too fast and hit the ceiling since my reflexes aren’t that swift. LOL.
Actually the direction it lifts it would go into the backyard instead of the next room. The squirrels wouldn’t be happy. LOL
@Mark Boyce posted:Jeff, the actuator can operate at 12 volts. I was operating it at less than 8 volts. Without the limit switches in service, I didn’t want to go too fast and hit the ceiling since my reflexes aren’t that swift. LOL.
Actually the direction it lifts it would go into the backyard instead of the next room. The squirrels wouldn’t be happy. LOL
Mark, That is a work of art, Engineering Marvels, the 8th wonder of the world. Very Kewl does not cover it. Mark, the opening of "2001 A Space Odyssey" is running in my head right now.
Great work Mark, thanks for sharing the vids , photos, and your kind remarks for others. Great craftsmanship my friend. Congrats
@Miggy posted:Mark, That is a work of art, Engineering Marvels, the 8th wonder of the world. Very Kewl does not cover it. Mark, the opening of "2001 A Space Odyssey" is running in my head right now.
Great work Mark, thanks for sharing the vids , photos, and your kind remarks for others. Great craftsmanship my friend. Congrats
Scott, I know the opening you are referring to. 
Thank you very much for the compliments. I certainly owe a tremendous amount to Mike and so many others for ideas. I never was much of an idea person. That's probably why I was an engineer who implemented others' ideas and not my own.
I was finally going to run my New Haven RS-1 today after doing a lube and checking the battery. Turns out the previous owner already installed a BCR-2 so off to the layout. Fired it up and around the bend until I heard a thud. The fuel tank doesn't clear my 5121 switches.......
.
Strange since RS-3's and RS-11's and other 031 locos clear the same spots. Oh well- it still looks good on the shelf.
Who can I call at ALCO to register a complaint about the fuel tank design. 
@RSJB18 posted:I was finally going to run my New Haven RS-1 today after doing a lube and checking the battery. Turns out the previous owner already installed a BCR-2 so off to the layout. Fired it up and around the bend until I heard a thud. The fuel tank doesn't clear my 5121 switches.......
Strange since RS-3's and RS-11's and other 031 locos clear the same spots. Oh well- it still looks good on the shelf.Who can I call at ALCO to register a complaint about the fuel tank design.
Bob, That's a revolting development. You could get out the grinder and...No better leave well enough alone! It does look good though, and I'm not even a New Haven fan.
Mark- I already trimmed the corners on the solenoid covers for another engine. Not much more I can do. I can run it on the front of the layout between the two spurs as a yard goat. It just won't be on the main. The switches connecting the two loops are 042's so I can pick and spot cars on the inside main and spot them on the outside spurs. More operational options.
Lemons? I don't need no stinkin' Lemons!
@RSJB18 posted:Mark- I already trimmed the corners on the solenoid covers for another engine. Not much more I can do. I can run it on the front of the layout between the two spurs as a yard goat. It just won't be on the main. The switches connecting the two loops are 042's so I can pick and spot cars on the inside main and spot them on the outside spurs. More operational options.
Well, look at it this way: It IS a switcher, after all... 
Mitch
Yes it is Mitch. It will do what switchers do 👍
Bit more tweaking on the 1130 resurrection...
A drawbar/rear axle assembly should be arriving on Monday, so I fabbed a drawbar support from Plastruct:
Note also that I'm using wonton soup containers to separate my strip plastic, metal and wood supplies. SCROUNGE!
In case you're wondering what I'm using for a cradle:
Bachmann G scale trolley truck sideframe assembly and an old washcloth! SCROUNGE again!
A little sanding wheel action to take off the edges and a Testors' touch up later, viola!
By the way, does anybody have spare tender and/or caboose shells handy? I would like to get these Scout frames back into operating condition...
And still on the hunt for whistle and horn relays! Thanks!
Mitch
What track system are you using?
K-line had low profile tubular switches, if that will work.
@Windy City posted:What track system are you using?
K-line had low profile tubular switches, if that will work.
027 tubular and 5121, 22 Lionel switches. I really wish I knew about the K-line's before I built my layout (not just because of the clearance issues). I have 14 switches on my layout and I'm not ripping it apart to change them. Might as well strip the whole thing and start over.
Again.....lemons = lemonade!
@RSJB18 posted:I was finally going to run my New Haven RS-1 today after doing a lube and checking the battery. Turns out the previous owner already installed a BCR-2 so off to the layout. Fired it up and around the bend until I heard a thud. The fuel tank doesn't clear my 5121 switches.......
Strange since RS-3's and RS-11's and other 031 locos clear the same spots. Oh well- it still looks good on the shelf.Who can I call at ALCO to register a complaint about the fuel tank design.
I can’t say that I’m surprised by this. What do you expect when a guy from Long Island starts modeling New Haven? Everything would’ve been fine if you went with an mth LIRR RS-1 instead of that mth new haven model.
@M. Mitchell Marmel posted:By the way, does anybody have spare tender and/or caboose shells handy? I would like to get these Scout frames back into operating condition...
And still on the hunt for whistle and horn relays! Thanks!
Mitch
What kind of tenders you looking for Mitch. I may have one or two I can spare. Shoot me an email.
Bob
@Strap Hanger posted:I can’t say that I’m surprised by this. What do you expect when a guy from Long Island starts modeling New Haven? Everything would’ve been fine if you went with an mth LIRR RS-1 instead of that mth new haven model.
That's Lawn-guy-land to you sir!
@RSJB18 posted:That's Lawn-guy-land to you sir!
Eggszactly RSJB18. You must be, or have been, from here to know the correct pronunciation.
LOL
Today I hooked up some S gauge American Flyer 760 crossing signals that I recently bought. I like the size of them with O gauge. I’m debating on whether to do a flashing modification to them; but they are in near mint shape and I don’t really want to touch them. In the meantime, look out for the Texas Special passing through!
@Lionelski posted:Eggszactly RSJB18. You must be, or have been, from here to know the correct pronunciation.
LOL
Born at South Nassau Community Hospital, Baldwin HS Class of '80. Any further questions? 😂
so i am back on the Waxhaw division for a bit. In one area i had contemplated a small team Yard (nothing is small in O gauge Ha Ha ) . One end has an oil terminal . So I decided to put some track together and move this part along.
My mainlines use Ross turnouts . In this area off the main, i have used some gargraves turnouts i had on hand. Added the hand throws mounted on the plastic base and cars roll pretty well by hand through the turnouts and the new trackage. There is room for a wreck track, a small coal pile, hopefully a team track unloading spot and a few small buildings , all to be built and placed.
I will attach the track to the table now that the arrangement is worked out. This will be followed by wiring, soldered leads direct to the track. Here are a few photos of the area as it stands right now.
@Former Member posted:Today I hooked up some S gauge American Flyer 760 crossing signals that I recently bought. I like the size of them with O gauge. I’m debating on whether to do a flashing modification to them; but they are in near mint shape and I don’t really want to touch them. In the meantime, look out for the Texas Special passing through!
New update......
I now added the blinker circuit without having to modify the signals themselves. They now alternate back and forth between each sign:
WOW Great work everyone! Nothing new from me today, but I still have to stop in and check what you all are doing! Just because I am being lazy I know there is someone always working on there trains and layouts! Thanks everyone for sharing!
The 1130 I'm working on had its markers snapped off (not uncommon with Lionel steamers in general). I was mulling over repair ideas when it occurred to me: Why not take a cue from past practices?
Had a couple of clear lanterns in the parts box...
Used a spring punch to locate holes for drilling...
Drilled holes so that the lanterns were flush with the boiler...
Installed, and secured with super glue...
And here's the result!
Mitch
I made some risers to elevate a third line of track.
I started on my scrap yard area.
Mitch Marmel, now that’s a very creative way to add marker lights to the #1130 steamer. It will be visible for miles, cool job. RSJB18 Bob, I can see there’s going to be some remodeling soon, that’s to pretty an engine to sit on a siding, keep us posted, it’s a cool paint scheme.... This is a picture of the MTH Passenger station, Now you see me, Now you don’t??? Happy Railroading Everyone 
Jeffery, one of our next projects will be a short elevated line for our MTH bump and go trolley(s)...we'll likely need to use a different support approach as most of the line will run directly over the lower one...so our supports will need to straddle the line below with trains running thru them...but curious to know if you had any lateral movement issues with the single supports centered on the track...wish we had room to do what you did.
@Canes RR posted:Jeffery, one of our next projects will be a short elevated line for our MTH bump and go trolley(s)...we'll likely need to use a different support approach as most of the line will run directly over the lower one...so our supports will need to straddle the line below with trains running thru them...but curious to know if you had any lateral movement issues with the single supports centered on the track...wish we had room to do what you did.
Cane, I have had no lateral movement issues. I used poplar 1.5 dia. dowel rod for the columns and .250 thickness poplar for the roadbed, it's rock solid. Good luck with your project.
@M. Mitchell Marmel posted:The 1130 I'm working on had its markers snapped off (not uncommon with Lionel steamers in general). I was mulling over repair ideas when it occurred to me: Why not take a cue from past practices?
Had a couple of clear lanterns in the parts box...
Used a spring punch to locate holes for drilling...
Drilled holes so that the lanterns were flush with the boiler...
Installed, and secured with super glue...
And here's the result!
Mitch
M.Mitch-Marrrrvelous. Great idea..... now. Make em green Mitch, Make em Green. I also love the down-splash appearance of Ditch Lights, Right? Those LEDs with a little black fingernail polish will help focus green out the front. Thanks Mitch for taking a chance and making it sweeeet
Night time at Elizabeth City on the Cuyahoga Valley RR....
Worked on a Plastruct vertical twin tank storage kit. Plastruct suggests scribing lines into the walls to simulate the weld lines. After trying that suggestion, I didn't think it made any sense to cut into the tubing. So I tried applying modeling filler to simulate the raised seams by applying in the gap formed by applying painters tape.
Here is the attempt at creating the horizontal seams. It works better to let the filler set a bit - but not completely dry - when removing the tape.
Filler with the tape removed. Its pretty easy to knock some of the high spots down with a finger.
The taping and filling process was repeated for the vertical seams. After priming, I did knock down a couple of the seams with a small file, and gave it another coat.
In retrospect maybe I should have applied the tank man ways prior to priming. I wanted to set the seams with primer so I would not knock them off by handling. I'll see how scraping the primer off to glue those pieces on works.
This is a link to my original post on "Buy anything cool" which describes the kit. https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...7#153603996932123277
I began a Korber building kit the Junction Transfer Co. the week of snow and falling ice around February 15th. I couldn’t walk up the thick ice covered steps to my layout.
Saturday I completed the exterior and today added the exterior an interior lighting. It’s ready for transfer to the layout. The building will serve as the office building where my father worked for Harbison Walker Refractory plant in Olive Hill beginning in 1943.
My first Korber kit, a Woodlands Scenic kit is next. The weathering of this Korber was a really difficult learning experience. I repainted the walls several times in my attempt to have the mortar joints visible...but I’m now pleased.
This weekend I started on the New Turkey Branch Lionel Traditional layout in the House. It is 4x7ish I guess I can’t join the 48 club just yet maybe when I get a expansion on I will qualify. This layout will be only Lionel Traditional O27 cars and crude vehicles of the 50s-60s. I’ve been wanting to put a layout in this room for about 2 years ago when I got the Green Light from the wife. Here’s a few pics please excuse the mess I’m still cleaning and clearing stuff out. I’ll post updates as I go.
I finally painted the rest of the walls around the layout. What a pain in the butt!!!!!! Now I know why people paint walls and add lights BEFORE they build their layouts. My back, hamstrings, and arms are killing me and I'm only 44. Gonna add a second coat this week and then I need to finish my grain elevator. Also working on a revision to my shelf area of my layout (an opposite wall) as I didn't leave enough area between tacks and overall area to include any scenery. Any ways, after not doing much for a while it feels good to have some progress.......
@Canes RR posted:Jeffery, one of our next projects will be a short elevated line for our MTH bump and go trolley(s)...we'll likely need to use a different support approach as most of the line will run directly over the lower one...so our supports will need to straddle the line below with trains running thru them...but curious to know if you had any lateral movement issues with the single supports centered on the track...wish we had room to do what you did.
I used 1" dowel and made small platforms with 1/4" luan. Works just fine with no movement at all. Most supports are screwed in from below the board. Those that I couldn't get a screw in are glued in place with yellow wood glue.
@lee drennen posted:
This weekend I started on the New Turkey Branch Lionel Traditional layout in the House. It is 4x7ish I guess I can’t join the 48 club just yet maybe when I get a expansion on I will qualify. This layout will be only Lionel Traditional O27 cars and crude vehicles of the 50s-60s. I’ve been wanting to put a layout in this room for about 2 years ago when I got the Green Light from the wife. Here’s a few pics please excuse the mess I’m still cleaning and clearing stuff out. I’ll post updates as I go.
Lee- If it's less than 32 sq ft you are in!
Bob
The static grass has finally dried and the shipyard brewing building has found its spot on the layout. This was my first go at the static grass. I have been using the woodland scenics ground cover shakers up until now. I have to say it really adds more contrast to the ground. Although it gets everywhere !!!
Great work everyone!
Thaddeus, the walls look good, but while your at it you might as well do the celling as you know you want to! LOL
Lee, looks like a good start. I wish I had a room in the house, but then again if I did I might not ever leave! LOL
Alex the static grass looks wonderful, nice job! I like the placement of the brewery also!
I just been working on a auto restoration. Maybe something today.
I hope everyone has a great week and finds lots of time to have fun with there layout and trains!
Your a real funny guy Mike! Its gonna be a couple of days of healing before I put the second coat on...........
Sprayed about 40 for trees with earth brown camo outside.
I'll let them dry for three days and flog them with hair spray and green foam. Cheers.
Work continues on the station... Doesn't look like much progress from the photos, but some serious hours spent fabricating brackets to screw the wing sections to the center hall, and of course had to cut and weld many sections to put the upper walls with the 6 windows under the upper roof. Now that the overall structure is square and all the walls are anchored, I will start fabricating the back wall of the center hall and work on fabricating the large arch window / doorway assemblies.
@RSJB18 posted:I used 1" dowel and made small platforms with 1/4" luan. Works just fine with no movement at all. Most supports are screwed in from below the board. Those that I couldn't get a screw in are glued in place with yellow wood glue.
RS, I like the way the loading dock blends in with the column. Brings back memory's of the Illinois Central running under the Dan Ryan Expressway in Chicago. Keep those trains running!
@TACOROG posted:The static grass has finally dried and the shipyard brewing building has found its spot on the layout. This was my first go at the static grass. I have been using the woodland scenics ground cover shakers up until now. I have to say it really adds more contrast to the ground. Although it gets everywhere !!!
Alex,
Looking good. More pics of the layout please?
Dave
Scenery is finally complete (though I will always be tinkering with little details). This project will never be done, but we are in pretty good shape at this point! I started this layout in November and am happy with how it has turned out. Learned a lot and will keep learning as I go!
Layout tour video here:
p51 : The realism of your modeling and the quality of your pictures is just marvelous. Thanks for posting, I truly enjoy seeing your layout.
Don
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