Victor:
The good news about the engines of the 736's era is that they can still be serviced and partially rebuilt if necessary. As my father, the late Randolph Harrison Jr. (I am the third) said, "That was when trains were made to last a life-time, if you live that long."
My son's Berkshire record of 17 cars was set on a flat platform. Your record of 10 cars up elevations is quite good. Let's hear it for Magne-Traction!!!!!!!!!
@Don McErlean posted:@Doug W. : Loved the "Bunny" trains, I bet the young folks to the museum loved them!
Best Wishes
Don
Young folk of all ages. 
Love that phrase: "Young folk of all ages."
Today a poster asked about front couplers on steamers which triggered replies including mine. It also triggered action to remove the slanted catcher on my PRR Consolidation and make freight engine steps and supports. I used styrene, painted those black and glued the assembly to the sill with ca gell. Before and after.
My trainroom is about 26' x 28'. I have had an around-the-room layout for several years. It is very basic: Mianne benchwork with plywood on top and then Fastrack screwed to the plywood. There are 3 mainlines with several sidings. There is also a second level for G gauge trains. I've never been very happy with it. With an around-the-room layout, it is difficult to do the recommended star wiring for DCS. I have multiple spots where the DCS signal is very weak. I have not had any problems with Legacy/TMCC engines.
Surprise, surprise...with Fastrack screwed directly to plywood, it is very loud.
I have decided to completely redo the layout. The wiring hubs and TIU's are mounted to plywood that is under the layout. I have pulled them out from under the layout and will reposition them closer to center of the room. And, the TIU's will be much higher. I should be able to do a better job of star wiring which will hopefully result in better DCS performance. And, with the TIU's higher, I will have more range using my remote.
I am putting padding on the plywood and will not screw the Fastrack down. It will be loosely secured to the plywood by using nylon wire ties. This should cut down on the noise level.
I find it increasingly difficult to crawl under the layout. Another reason to get the TIU's and wiring hubs out from under the layout is that they will be much higher and better illuminated so I can see what I am doing and not crawling on my knees.
This going to be a l-o-n-g project.
Today I had help from my grandson sealing and shaping contours around some segments of the layout for the purpose of final ballasting and scenery completion. One of the finest parts of model railroading is getting younger people involved.
Bill,
This is fantastic! Would really enjoy seeing more of your layout.
Dave
Got a delivery of an MTH Premier N&W J Class 611 from @Cabin Fever Auctions unpacked it and set it on the rails. Been looking for one for a while now and barely won it at auction. Bidding hit my max and stopped. Too much going on to do anything with it except to appreciate its size relative to a RailKing version I had and sold a while back. Before I power this up, I need to replace the battery with a BCR. Will send photos after I get back from my new train room hunting trip. We are supposed to see 4 good prospects this weekend. The CEO gets the rest of the facilities.
Wow! A lot of fantastic work to catch up on!
I am contemplating my next project.......the TW TrainWorx New Haven style switch tower.....I start off with a picture from the TW website:
....opening the box......
......and here we go!
Lastly, everything may be on hold.......my additional Mianne Benchwork arrives later today!
Have a great and safe weekend, folks!
Peter
Hi Peter, What a great looking switch tower. I have a smaller version of what you have displayed here but it pales in comparison. Who is the vendor and are they now available? Bill
@Bill Park posted:Hi Peter, What a great looking switch tower. I have a smaller version of what you have displayed here but it pales in comparison. Who is the vendor and are they now available? Bill
TW TrainWorx.....and yes, they are available.......
Peter
I've had the K-line 15" WP California Zephyr for two weeks and decided I needed to fix the doors that didn't shut all the way. And while I was at it retrieve the conductor that had come loose and was stuck under one of the tables! I've named him Stuckey Wedgewood do to his unfortunate predicament.
These aluminum passenger cars are not easy to take apart. The metal frame is in a groove in the aluminum shell and has to be pulled out of the front of the car. It was resistant to being pulled out, and I had to spread the aluminum body out at the bottom to pull the chassis out. Can't wait to put it back together! LoL
Stuckey Wedgewood is seen in the middle of all the parts.
I don't like the perforated floor, I'm on the hunt for doll house carpet that might be similar to was was in the real Zephyr cars. Plus, more passengers are required. Updates later.
@WesternPacific2217 posted:
I don't like the perforated floor, I'm on the hunt for doll house carpet that might be similar to was was in the real Zephyr cars. Plus, more passengers are required. Updates later.
Doll house carpet is a great idea as an option. I use dollhouse building parts as well as interior decor in a lot of my scratchbuilt structures. Another option is to do a Google search for color photos of carpeting, save the photos and print them. It may be a cheaper option and give you a larger variety from which to choose.
@Randy Harrison posted:Doll house carpet is a great idea as an option. I use dollhouse building parts as well as interior decor in a lot of my scratchbuilt structures. Another option is to do a Google search for color photos of carpeting, save the photos and print them. It may be a cheaper option and give you a larger variety from which to choose.
Randy, that’s a great idea and I have a Canon photo printer and several types of paper to choose from! I’ll let you know how it goes. Thanks!!
@WesternPacific2217 posted:Randy, that’s a great idea and I have a Canon photo printer and several types of paper to choose from! I’ll let you know how it goes. Thanks!!
Check this site too Scott.
Lots of interesting images. I've used it frequently, and the free account gives you a decent amount of downloads.
Thanks for the site Bob, I’ll check it out.
Andy
I’ve made a change in the yard around the turntable area. I’ve been playing with the idea to pull the foam board up and today I finally pulled the trigger. I did this with the idea in mind to create a slightly different height so everything in the area doesn’t look so uniform. First step was to remove some ballast and pull out the foam board. I’ll touch up some spots with flat brown latex next.
Andy
@RSJB18 posted:Check this site too Scott.
Lots of interesting images. I've used it frequently, and the free account gives you a decent amount of downloads.
Bob, thanks for the link, I signed up and there’s some great stuff on the site! Appreciate you sharing that!
Noodling around with my F3. Been hitting a wall with the lighting....again.
Fixed one problem this afternoon. More to go....
@WesternPacific2217 posted:
I don't like the perforated floor, I'm on the hunt for doll house carpet that might be similar to was was in the real Zephyr cars. Plus, more passengers are required. Updates later.
What was the purpose for the original perforated floor Scott ? 🤔 I never saw this done on a passenger car .
@Dallas Joseph posted:What was the purpose for the original perforated floor Scott ? 🤔 I never saw this done on a passenger car .
Hi Dallas, I have no idea, that's the way all 4 K-line cars came and they were new in the box (not prototypical! LoL). I'm going to remove all the furniture from the perforated floor (hopefully nothing breaks) and then cover it with construction paper printed to look like a darker grey carpet. Then I'll glue the furniture to the construction paper.
@RSJB18 posted:Noodling around with my F3. Been hitting a wall with the lighting....again.
Fixed one problem this afternoon. More to go....
What kind of wall have you been hitting Bob ? 🤔
Finally got around to testing the truck replacement I did a while back. It seems the replacement truck is geared differently, there are two part numbers for replacement trucks and no parts list for my item number so I had to guess and I guessed wrong. so I put the old one back on but ran into a bit of an issue.
Had to get the soldering iron out and fix that break.
A good cleaning and relube seemed to fix the original truck. Still noisy but not like it was.
I also got the new SD70MAC I pre-ordered on the layout. I picked it up from my LHS yesterday.
Happy railroading everyone!
@Dallas Joseph posted:What was the purpose for the original perforated floor Scott ? 🤔 I never saw this done on a passenger car .
Aloud for any arraignment of floor plans.
@shasta posted:Aloud for any arraignment of floor plans.
Shasta, I would agree with you and that's what I thought too, but in this case there were no pins or attachments on the furniture that went into the holes on the floor. All the furniture was just glued to the perforated floor. Maybe in another K-line passenger car set the holes were used to install and align the furniture using the hole patterns. I haven't opened up the coach cars yet, so the holes maybe used in those for seating alignment. I'll find out soon enough as those cars have passengers that have come unglued as well.
@Dallas Joseph posted:What kind of wall have you been hitting Bob ? 🤔
Dallas- I tested everything the other day and the lights weren't working correctly. The headlight and markers were flickering and the cab light wouldn't turn off. I went back to the wiring schematic and realized that the common had to go to the chassis ground, not the common on the board. Quick fix.
Next I figured out the cab light- rookie mistake with programming on my Cab 1L.
Tested everything again yesterday and the headlight works but the markers only flicker briefly. 
When tested on my bench they work fine so I'm going to go thru everything once again and see where the issue is.
Head meet wall...........
Bob
Keep at it Bob, you'll find the answer.
The patches look great Lee.
Andy
Good morning Y'all
Last night I finished placing track for two levels. Still need more power drop outs. I'm running different combinations to find clearance problems. I'm running trains again!
Bill
p51 Patches look great. You need to set up a process for ordering...I am on your list for a patch and still want one.
Don
I think a libation will help you correct the situation Bob. It clears the mind and provides a refreshing perspective.
Tonight I opened the box to my newly purchased S1Railking C&O and placed her on the layout tracks for maiden run… looks real good to me 😊
Runs the inclines like non other on my shelves…she is worth the wait.
Today I prototyped one or four crossing gates for the layout. It's a reuse of the older Plasticville Manual Crossing Gates which can be found dirt cheap. Added a LED, a servo unit and fabricated the linkages out of brass tubes and rods. Altogether, I figure I have the staggering amount of about $10 per gate.
Oh well, guess I cant' take the wife out to dinner this week. Very brief (shaky video) attached.
Barry
Barnum, that’s great work.
@romiller49 posted:Barnum, that’s great work.
Thanks Rod (and the others for the 'Likes'). One thing, I do find these cost effective. Barry
@RSJB18 posted:Dallas- I tested everything the other day and the lights weren't working correctly. The headlight and markers were flickering and the cab light wouldn't turn off. I went back to the wiring schematic and realized that the common had to go to the chassis ground, not the common on the board. Quick fix.
Next I figured out the cab light- rookie mistake with programming on my Cab 1L.
Tested everything again yesterday and the headlight works but the markers only flicker briefly.Head meet wall...........
Bob
Not familiar with the Lionel command controls Bob .........maybe time to shoot some photos ( not the engine ) for the techs on the forum.
It always seems to take me way too long to figure out issues like you are encountering . Those markers were the ones that change color, right ? That alone would have me using my head for a wrecking ball 
So realizing today that I haven't a ton of time left to search out new avenues of electronic creativity as you have 
...............I just ran trains. 
@Seth Thomas- I bought the LIRR RS-1. It's is a beauty and a great runner. Enjoy!
@barnun- Nice work with the P-ville gates. The LED on the arm is a nice touch too.
@p51- I like the patches Lee.
@Odenville Bill- Nice to see a train running again!
@Tranquil Hollow RR @Dallas Joseph- No heads (or trains) have been damaged in the making of these posts............ and a few cocktails have been consumed. 
I've been in touch with GRJ for assistance. I bought the AC commander board from a forum member so I'm wondering if the lighting outputs are not working properly???
Not much layout time this weekend but I did patch the holes in my other F3 shell. I used the Durham's Water Putty that @Steamfan77 Andy, recommended. Easy to work with and I will check the results tonight.
Watching a couple of items on today's Cabin Fever Auction.........stay tuned.
Bob
@RSJB18 posted:@Tranquil Hollow RR@Dallas Joseph- No heads (or trains) have been damaged in the making of these posts.......
Bob
LOL. bd
barnun - great job - I love it ! JP
Looking good everyone! Last two days I decided to try my hand in dry brush weathering and this is what I have so far. I thought I would start off small with MPC rolling stock instead of going whole Hogg on a scale box car.
@RSJB18 posted:@Seth Thomas- I bought the LIRR RS-1. It's is a beauty and a great runner. Enjoy!
@barnun- Nice work with the P-ville gates. The LED on the arm is a nice touch too.
@p51- I like the patches Lee.
@Odenville Bill- Nice to see a train running again!
@Tranquil Hollow RR @Dallas Joseph- No heads (or trains) have been damaged in the making of these posts.......
Not much layout time this weekend but I did patch the holes in my other F3 shell. I used the Durham's Water Putty that @Steamfan77 Andy, recommended. Easy to work with and I will check the results tonight.
Watching a couple of items on today's Cabin Fever Auction.........stay tuned.
Bob
That’s great Bob! Hope it works out well for you.
Andy
I touched up the area with some flat brown paint. The oak tag in the back is to create a template for the bunk house. The “L” shaped bunk house will be located inside the red circle. I’ll touch up the ballast along a few of the tracks, secure the top cap on the turntable, then lay down some ground cover.
Andy
As previously mentioned.... Not exactly what I was hoping for but I'm happy with the purchases.
I've wanted a MTH ALCO S2 for a while but the prices are nuts. I picked up a NYC dummy and a SOO chassis minus the boards. The motors and frame are all I really need, with a repaint, and I'll throw a ERR Cruise M in for power.
There was a LIRR S2 in the 50's-60's gray/ orange paint that I really wanted but I was outbid ....
Just what I need....another project......
Bob
@RSJB18 posted:As previously mentioned.... Not exactly what I was hoping for but I'm happy with the purchases.
I've wanted a MTH ALCO S2 for a while but the prices are nuts. I picked up a NYC dummy and a SOO chassis minus the boards. The motors and frame are all I really need, with a repaint, and I'll throw a ERR Cruise M in for power.
There was a LIRR S2 in the 50's-60's gray/ orange paint that I really wanted but I was outbid ....
Just what I need....another project......
Bob
Nice project, Bob. I regret not picking up that LIRR s2 when it came out as well. Hopefully Trainworld gets MTH to do a reissue for those of us not as technically proficient as you. The black LIRR VO1000s from 2017 are also on my reissue wish list. Can’t believe I missed out on one of those as well.
@Strap Hanger posted:Nice project, Bob. I regret not picking up that LIRR s2 when it came out as well. Hopefully Trainworld gets MTH to do a reissue for those of us not as technically proficient as you. The black LIRR VO1000s from 2017 are also on my reissue wish list. Can’t believe I missed out on one of those as well.
Well there's only one thing to do....
Hey Ken Jr @KenJrTW. Are you listening???? 😁😉😁😉
Thanks- it'll be a while before I get to it but i can run the dummy with a powered loco until time permits.
Bob
Finally got around to installing manhole covers and storm drains.
Planning a mock up on the floor trying to fit in the six stall roundhouse i won. Boy these things take up a lot of real estate, real estate i do not have. Looks like it will become a three stall instead. I suppose track planning software would help but I need to see the space before i attemptva build. Going to leave this in place for a few days to see if it grows on me.
@modeltrainsparts posted:Finally got around to installing manhole covers and storm drains.
What an awesome scene! I just sat there studying away, trying to absorb all the detail. Nicely done!
George
Received from Christine Braden custom mixed Createx dark green paint to match a NP North Coast Limited set I painted 25+ years ago, then sprayed a donor car for a paint comparison--a perfect match to my eye and the friend I'm painting a couple of cars for. Have since sprayed the two cars (a large door baggage car and RPO car) to be added to the NP NCL set.
For my new NP NCL set, I'm doing touch up work preparatory to decaling the remaining four cars of the nine in the set.
Also, experimenting with installing LED strip lights in the ceiling of the short vista domes (there are four in the train set) and concealing the 30 awg wire -- no easy task with XL hands/fingers and the occasional tremor common to those of us who are no longer young.
Everyone is working on very different and nice projects!
I didn't like how my station was facing the track, that is there was very little straight track. I got the idea to extend the passing siding to the lift up bridge, but not cross the bridge. It is to give the impression there used to be a 2-track bridge, but a single track bridge was put in its place. I had a couple of unused GarGraves switches, and one was almost a perfect match to the flex tract that curves to the switch that joins the siding to the mainline. I like how this mock up looks. Right now there is no roadbed, the track is suspended in air. The scribed northeastern sheets will be cut to provide a nice platform on 3 sides of the station. I still have a lot of details to add to the station. Also, the prototype was built right next to a stream, so the platform had a railing along the platform that extends down the track and another railing on the side facing the viewer. I think this will work.
Before
After
.....and, so we begin......the picture of the completed structure is from the TW TrainWorx website......
Peter
I'm back working on my layout after a long, long layoff. I had a hinged kit built wooden bridge that allowed entrance into the room. The bridge was starting to come apart at several glue joints. I decided to replace it with a MTH arch bridge with girder extensions. I've had to narrow the entrance due to the MTH bridge is 6 inches shorter. I'm changing from the hinge to a lift-up/rotate design. the bridge will rotate and then rest on some sort of support on the edge of the layout. The layout has an upper two track main with a shared center passing siding. The lower track is a double reverse loop with a passing siding. The room is a total mess right now so I need to clean it up then I'll get some pictures. Here are a couple of pictures of the initial bridge mock up.
Got some more cars weathered and will probably stop here for now.
@Trainmaster04 posted:Got some more cars weathered and will probably stop here for now.
Why? Looks like you were really rolling (so to speak). Great job. bd
@barnun posted:Why? Looks like you were really rolling (so to speak). Great job. bd
Thanks! I am sort of running out of semi scale rolling stock I am willing to paint, and I need what I have left to use for an up coming club clinic. Also, I am next going to try a locomotive and that will take much longer than a car. I will probably be back at it with rolling stock soon. I am just taking a minor break.
Just got done with a scenery project. My son inlaw has cancer and I wanted to dedicate this to him. He has his degree in chemistry and is a professor at Eastern Washington University in Cheney Washington. I do hope he will enjoy. The building is named after him Dr. J. Manson Labratory. Bought the shadow box from Doug at Todd Architectural. Thanks for your help Doug.
Bill this is a very nice scene. Your son should appreciate it. He is in our prayers.
Today we completed the installation of 8 MTH floodlights. We began with replacing the 4 bulbs with 10mm LEDs and installed them around the perimeter of the steam service ”Roanoke Shops” area.
Then we installed Randolph Street Tower, built to resemble a tower located on the diamond in Roanoke. The building has separate lighting for day, night, and both. Harry Hieke built the main structure and Paula and I did the interior and most of the lighting.
Bill your night cast is from the pot lights I would assume they are blue. What light bulb are you using if I my ask. I love what you have done with your lighting.
Finished building a stairway for getting down to street level from the bridge walkway above.
Rod, if I may say so ... that IS SOME beautiful work. bd
Rod, someone just suggested I need one of those to go from my station to the lower level. I didn't have anything that elaborate in mind, but Wow! What a great looking stairway!!
That’s a masterpiece Rod! WOW!!!
Got to work on the engine I selected to weather and I surprised myself by finishing it as well! The locomotive is a 1989 Reading T1 that I got a couple of years ago by a forum member. I purchased it because it was a great deal, and I wanted to weather it. To the member who sold me it, now you can finally see it weathered! I will post a video of it running soon!
@romiller49, beautiful project and photos. Help us all with a thread on how you did it.
Thanks for the kind words everyone.
Carl, I needed a stairway for a high elevation. I didn’t want one long stairway but wanted something compact. I simply built as I went along using bass wood from my stock pile for projects. The most difficult items were the stair steps. I used 3/16 x 3/8 x 24 bass wood strips for the steps cut to 1-1/4” wide. Once they were assembled it was just a matter or orientation of the steps for a compact display. I like to use Elmer’s white glue. It’s easy to make adjustments if needed especially keeping the stair treads straight. I didn’t like the stairways sitting on a box so that’s where the garage doors came in handy. They weren’t planned but by luck the fit perfectly.
Here is a video of my T1.
Thanks for the response and info @romiller49.
Making lift out tunnels for my RR so as to have access to turnouts and track work in otherwise hidden locations.
Taking a stab at adding coal for my Railking hoppers. I used Black Diamond Coal Slag abrasive and a lot of wet water.
Assembled a dozen @gunrunnerjohn-designed DIY regulators for LED strip lights for passenger cars
Continuing touch-up paint work before decaling last 4 of nine NP NCL cars. Also gathered the interiors and frames needed for final assembly.
Next up is installing LED's in the ceilings of four domes, and cutting the sheet Styrene for the mounting panels for the fore and aft LED strips in the dome cars.
@WesternPacific2217 posted:I've had the K-line 15" WP California Zephyr for two weeks and decided I needed to fix the doors that didn't shut all the way. And while I was at it retrieve the conductor that had come loose and was stuck under one of the tables! I've named him Stuckey Wedgewood do to his unfortunate predicament.
These aluminum passenger cars are not easy to take apart. The metal frame is in a groove in the aluminum shell and has to be pulled out of the front of the car. It was resistant to being pulled out, and I had to spread the aluminum body out at the bottom to pull the chassis out. Can't wait to put it back together! LoL
Stuckey Wedgewood is seen in the middle of all the parts.
I don't like the perforated floor, I'm on the hunt for doll house carpet that might be similar to was was in the real Zephyr cars. Plus, more passengers are required. Updates later.
Here's an update on the progress so far on my K-Line Aluminum 15" Cal Zephyr passenger car.
Close up of after I had just disassembled the car. Plastic perforated floor, everything is gray:
Starting disassembly, removed half oval bar, then all the love seats and tables:
New carpet floor, printed on my Canon photo printer. Hand painted love seats, table tops, and half oval bar. Used the figures that came with the car and added some Woodland Scenics figures. I had to do major surgery on the bartender and Stucky Wedgewood removing a portion of their legs, they were too tall! I got the colors from a online photo of one of the California Zephyr Observation cars. The floor in the real car is darker, but the chairs and couches were pastel blue and peach. I used Testors paints.
It was very difficult to remove the steel chassis from the aluminum body during disassembly, so I took the opportunity to do some Dremel work on the chassis, and some filing on the aluminum body. Glad I did, the frame slides easily in and out of the body now! I was going to upgrade to LED lighting, but the original incandescent lighting works great and doesn't flicker. My track must be clean at the moment. I'll keep the lighting stock for now, until a light burns out.
The interior of body is just aluminum, plastic windows, and some sloppy factory glue. So my next project is to line the interior walls with printed photo paper in a very light pinkish color like the real Zephyr car. I'll have to cut out the windows in the photo paper, the measurements are critical. More updates to come.
@WesternPacific2217 posted:Here's an update on the progress so far on my K-Line Aluminum 15" Cal Zephyr passenger car.
Close up of after I had just disassembled the car. Plastic perforated floor, everything is gray:
Starting disassembly, removed half oval bar, then all the love seats and tables:
New carpet floor, printed on my Canon photo printer. Hand painted love seats, tabletops, and half oval bar. Used the figures that came with the car and added some Woodland Scenic figures. I had to do major surgery on the bartender and Stucky Wedgewood removing a portion of their legs, they were too tall! I got the colors from a online photo of one of the California Zephyr Observation cars. The floor in the real car is darker, but the chairs and couches were pastel blue and peach. I used Testers paints.
It was very difficult to remove the steel chassis from the aluminum body during disassembly, so I took the opportunity to do some Dremel work on the chassis, and some filing on the aluminum body. Glad I did, the frame slides easily in and out of the body now! I was going to upgrade to LED lighting, but the original incandescent lighting works great and doesn't flicker. My track must be clean at the moment. I'll keep the lighting stock for now, until a light burns out.
The interior of body is just aluminum, plastic windows, and some sloppy factory glue. So my next project is to line the interior walls with printed photo paper in a very light pinkish color like the real Zephyr car. I'll have to cut out the windows in the photo paper, the measurements are critical. More updates to come.
Outstanding work Scott, I'm looking forward to the end results. So far your project is very impressive.
@WesternPacific2217 posted:
I was going to upgrade to LED lighting, but the original incandescent lighting works great and doesn't flicker. My track must be clean at the moment. I'll keep the lighting stock for now, until a light burns out.
The interior of body is just aluminum, plastic windows, and some sloppy factory glue. So my next project is to line the interior walls with printed photo paper in a very light pinkish color like the real Zephyr car. I'll have to cut out the windows in the photo paper, the measurements are critical. More updates to come.
The interior is looking good with that carpeting Scott. No big deal about doing some surgery on some legs . I had to do some when installing sitting figures in my passenger cars.
Just one note about using combustible materials in the interior. THE INCADESCENT BULBS GET VERY HOT.
HAVE FUN.
Not the layout as such, but still:
Got this done today, for the Battalion COs herringbone twill top for my fictional Railway Operating Battalion on my layout. The collar insignia is for a Lt Colonel and Transportation Corps, both of which are WW2 vintage and correct for the branch and rank for a Battalion Commander.
I must be the first person in the hobby EVER to do this. Gonna put it on and have my wife take a shot of me standing in the layout room wearing this with an M1 helmet and pistol belt, holding either a carbine or a Tommy gun...
@WesternPacific2217, really great progress on your project.
Question: how'd you remove items from the perforated floor?
Thanks for the photos and info.
Hi guys! Not much to report lately on the layout. Spring is here so more outdoor time is required.
Wonder what the CEO would say about a G scale layout in the yard...........
I did get the holes filled in on my F3 shell. I still need to get matching paint.
@WesternPacific2217- 1000% improvement Scott. Looks great!
@Pingman- That train is going to be something special when it's done Carl.
@p51- The patch looks right at home on the sleeve of that shirt Lee.
@ChiTown Steve- nice work on the hopper loads.
Well...the grass ain't gonna mow itself........
Bob
Alot of great work here today. Nice going gentlemen!
@Pingman posted:@WesternPacific2217, really great progress on your project.
Question: how'd you remove items from the perforated floor?
Thanks for the photos and info.
Hi Pingman, I used a brand new box cutter blade, clamped the perforated floor to my workbench and sliced them off ever so carefully! Some of the couches had pins that went into the floor and some didn’t. The couches with the pins were only slightly more difficult. After I removed the couches etc. I sanded them flat on the bottom so they would adhere well on the new floor surface. I’ll post some more photos, I finished the wall paneling inside the passenger car last night and it’s time to put it back together.
Thanks for the description @WesternPacific2217.
Keep the photos and details coming -- terrific project.
The Burlington box car in the first picture had some small scratches that really showed because it's so shinny. I weathered it this morning. With a built date of 1956 it blends in better with my 1971 era looking a little worse for wear. I also changed the doors to Tuscan.
For me, it was track cleaning day of the passenger train mainline. So, I prepared the track cleaning car to run behind the head end F7, but ran the train in reverse around the layout with the cleaning car behind it.
The first photo is before the run started. The second photo shows all the grime accumulated on the rotating disk. So, it was pretty dirty. But the track cleaning car makes the job fairly easy and done quickly.
@RSJB18 posted:Well...the grass ain't gonna mow itself........
Bob
Well Bob..........I'm guessing your CEO doesn't find mowing the grass to be such a joy as my CEO does.
@WesternPacific2217 posted:Here's an update on the progress so far on my K-Line Aluminum 15" Cal Zephyr passenger car.
Close up of after I had just disassembled the car. Plastic perforated floor, everything is gray:
Starting disassembly, removed half oval bar, then all the love seats and tables:
New carpet floor, printed on my Canon photo printer. Hand painted love seats, table tops, and half oval bar. Used the figures that came with the car and added some Woodland Scenics figures. I had to do major surgery on the bartender and Stucky Wedgewood removing a portion of their legs, they were too tall! I got the colors from a online photo of one of the California Zephyr Observation cars. The floor in the real car is darker, but the chairs and couches were pastel blue and peach. I used Testors paints.
It was very difficult to remove the steel chassis from the aluminum body during disassembly, so I took the opportunity to do some Dremel work on the chassis, and some filing on the aluminum body. Glad I did, the frame slides easily in and out of the body now! I was going to upgrade to LED lighting, but the original incandescent lighting works great and doesn't flicker. My track must be clean at the moment. I'll keep the lighting stock for now, until a light burns out.
The interior of body is just aluminum, plastic windows, and some sloppy factory glue. So my next project is to line the interior walls with printed photo paper in a very light pinkish color like the real Zephyr car. I'll have to cut out the windows in the photo paper, the measurements are critical. More updates to come.
Update: Finished the interior paneling and installed them in the extruded aluminum car body. you can see the plastic window, glue and all without the paneling. Ugly! Just getting started in the photo below.
I used the already existing channels in the car body for the interior panels, just need a couple of dabs of glue. Notice how low in the car body the incandescent lights hang in the photo, more about that at the bottom of this post. The channels towards the bottom are for the chassis, it slides in from front to back.
Fitting the paneling printed on Canon Photo paper.
The photo below shows panel after the windows have been cut out. Time consuming process of cutting out the windows, about an hour each side! This photo also shows how low the incandescent lights are!
Paneling installed.
The plan was to reassemble the car today, but the incandescent lights are a problem and need to be remedied with LED strips before I can install the chassis with interior floor and figures. Both Stucky Wedgewood, the conductor, and the bartender will be decapitated if I install the chassis with the factory incandescent lights. I have the LED strips, but I'm out of DC regulators, so I'm placing an order for gunrunnerjohns regulators. I'll also need a couple of resistors and a 3 mm LED for the main taillight. I thought is was odd that they used LED's for the taillights on each side and an incandescent for the center taillight!!! Probably a week delay for shipping etc. as I'm on the west coast! :-( Hopefully my next update will be a completed project!
Wow Scott, I'm impressed! You are a real craftsman. I can't even repair my own passenger cars and have to send them to gunrunnerjohn. So, I have to settle with whatever passenger car interiors I get, due to my ineptness at the work bench. As long as the interiors are finished with colors and painted passenger figures, I guess I don't mind. But, you the man!
@Yellowstone Special Wow, I’m traveling via the Super Chief my next train experience 😊
@Seth Thomas posted:@Yellowstone Special Wow, I’m traveling via the Super Chief my next train experience 😊
Seth: If only we could. I was in my late teens during the twilight years when those name trains ran. But I miss seeing them and riding on them. 😉
@Yellowstone Special posted:Wow Scott, I'm impressed! You are a real craftsman. I can't even repair my own passenger cars and have to send them to gunrunnerjohn. So, I have to settle with whatever passenger car interiors I get, due to my ineptness at the work bench. As long as the interiors are finished with colors and painted passenger figures, I guess I don't mind. But, you the man!
Hi Vern, thanks for your kind words about my abilities, I do my best to satisfy my own expectations! LoL if others like what I’ve done that’s a big bonus!
I see you have your own set of aluminum Super Chief passenger cars that must look awesome being pulled by your #332 Warbonnet ABA F3 set. The interior details are great! Are those Lionel 21”? A video of the Super Chief would be awesome! 😁
Thanks, Scott. These are 15” cars, since I have only 036 curves on the layout. Can only take still photos, since I’m too inept to do videos. Perhaps eventually. 🤔
Scott, You are making great improvements!
Vern, your cars look great!
Thank you, Mark.
@WesternPacific2217, thanks for the additional photos and details on your project. It's progressing great.
I may undertake a very similar project hence my questions:
What are you using for "window glass" between the interior of the extrusion and your panels?
What did you use to cut out the windows from the panels?
How did you measure to create the notch at the rear of the panels?
Thanks, again, for an excellent project "how to" and for answering questions.
@Yellowstone Special, thanks for the photos; that's one of LIONEL's finest passenger sets.
@Pingman posted:@WesternPacific2217, thanks for the additional photos and details on your project. It's progressing great.
I may undertake a very similar project hence my questions:
What are you using for "window glass" between the interior of the extrusion and your panels? I used the windows that came with the K-Line 15" passenger car. I'm pretty sure it's Lexan.
What did you use to cut out the windows from the panels? I used a razorblade You could use and xacto knife or a box cutter, just make sure it's a new blade. Some sort of cutting board.
How did you measure to create the notch at the rear of the panels? I used a steel ruler that has 1/32 graduations (next time I'm using metric!), and a digital Vernier caliper.
Thanks, again, for an excellent project "how to" and for answering questions.
@Yellowstone Special, thanks for the photos; that's one of LIONEL's finest passenger sets.
Hi Pingman, answers are above in your post above.
List of the tools I used in the photo below.
Heavy Steel ruler - Note: If you don't have one, I recommend a flexible steel machinists ruler for measuring. I use the heavy ruler as a straightedge.
Digital Vernier Caliper
Razorblade - I find razorblades hold their edge better than an xacto knive. Personal preference.
Just a simple template I created out of construction paper. The cutout is a relieve for the wiring for the rear lights.
Thanks for your comprehensive reply @WesternPacific2217 to my questions.
What did you use for "window" material? Did you reuse what K-Line installed or did you need to make a substitute?
Thanks, again, for the photos and info. Looking forward to you LED/regulator installation.
@Yellowstone Special posted:Thanks, Scott. These are 15” cars, since I have only 036 curves on the layout. Can only take still photos, since I’m too inept to do videos. Perhaps eventually. 🤔
What device do you use to do the photos Vern ? 🤔
@Pingman posted:Thanks for your comprehensive reply @WesternPacific2217 to my questions.
What did you use for "window" material? Did you reuse what K-Line installed or did you need to make a substitute?
Thanks, again, for the photos and info. Looking forward to you LED/regulator installation.
Sorry Pingman, my apologies for not pointing out that I reused the original factory windows. I’m not sure if it can be seen in the photos, but it’s one piece per side going almost the whole length of the car. As a matter of fact I didn’t even remove them at all. I didn’t think at the time I could remove the window material without breaking or damaging it. However, in hind sight, and with the next 3 K-Line passenger cars in the set, I will remove the windows and replace with new Lexan windows.
@Yellowstone Special posted:Thanks, Scott. These are 15” cars, since I have only 036 curves on the layout. Can only take still photos, since I’m too inept to do videos. Perhaps eventually. 🤔
Vern, I’m no expert and I use my iPhone or iPad Pro for almost all my video’s and very simple to use. The phone does most of the work for you, just point and shoot. It does help to have a tripod and a mount for the phone. It’s difficult to operate the phone and a cab1 or cab2 at the same time with two hands. And then just experiment with light and position of the phone.
I guess the trick is to upload the video to YouTube, which is what I do, and then put the link into OGR.
Hi guys, I just handed out a boatload of likes as some of you may have noticed I haven't been here for about 2 weeks! The CEO has me doing project after project to get ready for summer! LOL
I sure love everything that is going on with all the wonderful projects!
Bill nice tribute to your Son in Law! I am praying for him and his family!
Scott, your work on the interior of your passenger car is just Outstanding!
Nothing new from me as I still have more projects to take care of rain or shine! But I will try and check in sooner then 2 weeks! LOL
I hope you all find time to have fun with your layouts and trains!
Joseph: I just use my iPhone 13 pro max for the photos.
@WesternPacific2217 posted:Vern, I’m no expert and I use my iPhone or iPad Pro for almost all my video’s and very simple to use. The phone does most of the work for you, just point and shoot. It does help to have a tripod and a mount for the phone. It’s difficult to operate the phone and a cab1 or cab2 at the same time with two hands. And then just experiment with light and position of the phone.
I guess the trick is to upload the video to YouTube, which is what I do, and then put the link into OGR.
Thanks Scott. You've become a pretty good photographer then. I've taken short video clips of the trains on the layout. But I've never posted them on any of the forums. I haven't created a YouTube account yet. I guess that would be the next step. Thank you for the tips.
Scott, excellent project, sounds like a good article for OGR.
Andy
Hello Guys and Gals,
As usual inspiration comes when I look at some of the work that people have been doing recently. Here is a photo of some transmission towers I put together and painted. I forgot to take a picture of them painted but that is forthcoming along with the progress on this particular project. These are HO scale so stay tuned for how I utilized them on the layout...
Dave
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