@coach joe posted:

Workbench updates.  I showed this photo of a K-Line gondola with the accessory high ends and floor after I painted them and added them.

Well upon closer inspection with the floor installed the high ends rode a little higher than they should have.

The underside of the floor shows why.  These little "feet" had to go.

A few quick strokes with a razor saw and we have a better fit.

The foam cradle had to be altered

Coach, ….I need that gondola in my life!……beautiful work coach!

Pat

@coach joe- nice work on both projects. I had thought of you the other day. I was digging through my tool chest and ran across an old paint marker. Glad it worked out. The stripes look good.
Not sure how to address the couplers except to put a small rubber band around them.

Bob

Making closed coupler door pilots for my Lionel E7s. 3rd Rail item used as a master.

Pete

Pat, thanks a lot.  The gondola story goes like this, years ago I bought the K-Line accessory high ends and floor thinking it would have to fit one of the many gondolas from different manufacturers that I had.  This past winter while trying to get organized enough that I could fit some sort of layout in the allotted spare bedroom I finally broke the pieces out of the blister pack and low and behold not a single gondola would fit.  Into the for sale box the pieces went.  Keeping an eye out for a correct K-Line gondola, with out load, coil covers, high sides wasn't very successful until finally I found this one on Trainz.com.  I didn't really need another piece of rolling stock but the model was right, the road was right and ost importantly the price was right.

Bob I remember  an old post that mentioned rubber bands to prevent uncoupling but I'm not sure how to install them.

Norton, looks like you're making dentures.

Not quite finished with trim on locomotive, but I couldn’t wait to see how she looks. Wabash GP9 custom painted to NATTY BOH

Nice job JIm.

@Jim M Sr posted:

Not quite finished with trim on locomotive, but I couldn’t wait to see how she looks. Wabash GP9 custom painted to NATTY BOH

Oh Yah  Jim .  This is one darn fine fantastic fun beer train sir.   Nice finish.

@Ray of sunshine

Please note that the above FW&D Silver heavyweight Diner is owned &!has been modified by @Rob Leese.

Rob has been doing many wonderful modifications of various passenger cars for his Texas Zephyr

CB&Q Bill

Just finished cleaning and rewiring yet another prewar 253 electric loco. While I was at it, I threw in a new set of motor brushes, and cleaned the commutator ring. Of the four 253s I own, this one was definitely in the best shape when it arrived - Body (including roof overhangs) and frame are both perfectly straight, couplers intact, paint on the frame is near perfect, and the only parts that were missing were the headlight housings. The paint was a bit dirty, and the brass tarnished, but both conditions were easily fixed. Only one of the disk wheel flanges is slightly damaged, but I'm going to replace all four with a spoked set (ordered from Hennings Trains). Some would be upset by that, but I just think they look better. All in all, I think she was well worth the $45 I paid for her on ebay! I had thought about doing a complete restoration, as I had on my other three, but I think I might leave her as is. All she needs is a couple light bulbs, and she's ready for service!

You guys posting pics of beer, all while I'm here in my office (working on a prewar 253 electric). As a QC inspector for a regional airline, no beer for me until tomorrow night, when I'm NOT at work! The FAA has a real bug up their butt about us drinking at work! LOL! Have a good weekend everybody!

@Norton  what are you using for the mold and what material are you using for the part.  I have thought about adding "doors" to mine. I am not a big fan of the coupler sticking out so far.

Seems like the prototypes used them on certain engines and then stopped. I was surprised to read the couplers could be rotated out of the way to close the doors.  That sounds like an engineering and maintenance nightmare.

@ScoutingDad posted:

@Norton  what are you using for the mold and what material are you using for the part.  I have thought about adding "doors" to mine. I am not a big fan of the coupler sticking out so far.

Seems like the prototypes used them on certain engines and then stopped. I was surprised to read the couplers could be rotated out of the way to close the doors.  That sounds like an engineering and maintenance nightmare.

For the mold material I am using Smooth On Mold Star 15 Slow. It has a much better shelf life that the Ooo Moo 30 I started using. For the casting I an using Alumilite “Amazing Casting Resin” (Their name). Its a Urethane resin versus a epoxy resin. I have used Smooth On Smooth Cast 300 but that is starting to turn. Both would work here.

If you get into casting its best to have a number of projects lined up as most products have a shelf life and some less than a year.

Still working out the bugs. I am finding the Alumilight cures a bit too fast (10 minutes) and some of the air bubbles are getting trapped. Stay tuned.

I have tried adding doors to the existing pilots but the compound curve makes it difficult to machine. Also I have found E6 pilots with closed doors (Lionel) and E8 pilots (P&D) but E7s seem to have a different curve and the other two wouldn’t fit. Lucky 3Rd Rail included them with their E7s.

Pete

Maybe this has been posted or it should be in another thread, but I want to build or get a better workbench for my trains.  Can some of you guys show pictures of what your bench looks like and what are some of the key items you have on your workbench? 

Thanks in advance

@roll_the_dice posted:

Maybe this has been posted or it should be in another thread, but I want to build or get a better workbench for my trains.  Can some of you guys show pictures of what your bench looks like and what are some of the key items you have on your workbench?

Thanks in advance

No harm in asking.

Check out this recent thread for some ideas.

Thanks Dallas,  several different colors of acrylic and some planks were layered with more than one. The acrylic covered the plastic well without filling in the wood grain.   I like the way it turned out.

I picked up a Premier Southern Pacific Alco PA with no electronics but with both motors intact. Cosmetically mint and just needs a PS3 kit. I wanted another powered A to go with my PS3 version for an ABBA set.

Oddly enough, even those 13 years separate them, the red and orange paint on the PS3 version (6006) and the PS2 version (6008) dead nuts match.

An absolute disaster:

The previous owners(s) did this car no favors. It was misrepresented at auction as C-8.  Nah…  It looks like it needs a blob of C4 to put it to rest.

Hi Rob:

Sorry to learn that this car did not meet expectations.

Who was the original manufacturer ?

What specific alterations are beyond fixing ?

CB&Q Bill

Actually, these were on the workbench last week.  I finally painted the truck side frames on the SD40-2s and U25Bs gray.  Also did the U25B tanks.

@CBQ_Bill posted:

Hi Rob:

Sorry to learn that this car did not meet expectations.

Who was the original manufacturer ?

What specific alterations are beyond fixing ?

CB&Q Bill

This is a Golden Gate Depot observation car. Since I have already done makeovers on Lionel and K-Line obs, I have always wanted to try my hand at a GGD just to see how they lend themselves to changes.  If you made a list of pro vs. con on the three named manufacturers it would come out near a triple dead heat. But having done all three I prefer Lionel over the other two.  Lionel outside detail blows the other two makers away.
This car had embossed letterboards so they had to go. The lighting needs to be replaced. The diapragm end was an absolute joke so I modified it with Lionel parts. (I have already spoken my peace on GGD diaphragm ends in previous posts).  When this car is finished I will have 3 options for an obs for the only one TEXAS ZEPHYR I have assembled…this is why I can’t stand in judgement of anyone elses seemingly large collections.
***Aside note just between you and I…I have contacted Microscale in regard to a special run of O gauge E5 decals (which they discontinued).  Microscale said they would do a special run with a minimum order of 250 sets.  (gad).  We need to encourage K4 to do these.  They are true champs of their profession and they create obscure decal sets which highly impresses me. I want to completely strip and repaint my four Sunset Models E5’s in a proper chrome finish, so I have a dire need for decals of which I do not wish to make myself.***

3rd Rail M1b tuneup:

• broken side rods fixed
• led lighting upgrade
• smoke unit upgrade
• 3D printed speaker box to enhance sound
• Quick disconnect (JST) between loco top and bottom
• Added Norm’s solder braid enhancement to the 3rd Rail pickup rollers
• KAder coupler & 3d printed shim

@Lou1985 posted:

Oddly enough, even those 13 years separate them, the red and orange paint on the PS3 version (6006) and the PS2 version (6008) dead nuts match.

Interestingly, the earlier version (rear - 6008) seems to have more nose detail than the later version - an opening door and some grab irons to the side of it.

I've had these ready to decal for quite a while but couldn't find my any of my decal tools. I finally found them this last weekend and starting to get caught up on a number of projects I have started. These two still have a ways to go but not to bad for an hours worth of work.

These were on the workbench briefly last night. I programmed both into my Cab 1L and lubed the gears.

This one is a Lionel PWC remake of the original 624 so the pullmore motor was serviced as well.

Bob

Bob, I’m glad to see you are taking good care of #23. 😊

@Mark Boyce posted:

Bob, I’m glad to see you are taking good care of #23. 😊

Thanks Mark. It found a good home for sure. I have to open it up and swap the 9v battery for a BCR. I think I still have one on the shelf.

@D500 posted:

Interestingly, the earlier version (rear - 6008) seems to have more nose detail than the later version - an opening door and some grab irons to the side of it.

I noticed that as well. Kinda odd the newer version lacks both of those features.

@RSJB18 posted:

These were on the workbench briefly last night. I programmed both into my Cab 1L and lubed the gears.

This one is a Lionel PWC remake of the original 624 so the pullmore motor was serviced as well.

Bob

.Good stuff Bob.........and how many engines are you currently maintaining ?

I'm getting back to the workbench for maintainence fun also.    My very first MTH PS2 from the VFM  ........

Acetone and Q-tips for wheels and pickup rollers cleaning---------'       ACF-50  for corrosion resistance and micro size coupler oiling. ---------EZ  LUBE  ( 99981  ) for pickup rollers and wheel axles to SUPPOSEDLY act to increase conductivity as well as act as a light lubricant.

WARNING........photo DOES NOT depict typical organizational skills of the operator.

@MattD87 posted:

wish I thought of this! Smoke unit replacement went fine. Motor is still noisy but at least I have smoke. Even took it apart again to add some oil to the motor to reduce the noise which worked for a bit but a day later back to noisy. I'm waving the white flag, at least it works, and the noise is nowhere near as bad as before and it is a motor. Almost stripped one of those little screws on the smoke unit board too. Good thing I always order more!

Had the same result with the oil going away Matt.   Mostly started having some noise after a couple days.  I'm going to have to see if anyone used some sort of light grease on the motor that might stay longer.

@Junior posted:

The parts list might make you think it's pretty complex to build, but as you can see the assembly is pretty straight forward.

Here it is in operation. It's a bit noisy but no worse than the 3927 car.

The car does a pretty good job cleaning the track. And no more dreaded sparks!

Hope you like!

Like this a lot Junior.   Well done.                                     Is there a certain product you use on the buffing pad ?

@Dallas Joseph posted:

.Good stuff Bob.........and how many engines are you currently maintaining ?

I'm getting back to the workbench for maintainence fun also.    My very first MTH PS2 from the VFM  ........

Acetone and Q-tips for wheels and pickup rollers cleaning---------'       ACF-50  for corrosion resistance and micro size coupler oiling. ---------EZ  LUBE  ( 99981  ) for pickup rollers and wheel axles to SUPPOSEDLY act to increase conductivity as well as act as a light lubricant.

WARNING........photo DOES NOT depict typical organizational skills of the operator.

Well, let's see.....I went from 0 to 80 engines in a very short period of time soooo, they all need maintenance at some point. 🤣🤣

All part of the adventure of model railroading....👍👍

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Well, let's see.....I went from 0 to 80 engines in a very short period of time soooo, they all need maintenance at some point. 🤣🤣

All part of the adventure of model railroading....👍👍

Bob

.......from 0 to 80 engines Bob !?!      Yikes.     I'll bet you don't sit around thinking  " geez I wish I had something to do today ".

@Dallas Joseph posted:

.......from 0 to 80 engines Bob !?!      Yikes.     I'll bet you don't sit around thinking  " geez I wish I had something to do today ".

IF ONLY.....🤣🤣

@Dallas Joseph posted:

Like this a lot Junior.   Well done.                                     Is there a certain product you use on the buffing pad ?

Hey @Dallas Joseph....

Here's what I purchased/used.....

I also used a 1,000 rpm motor.....

And the following coupler.....

BTW....I forgot to mention....since the sanding disc screws onto the shaft, you have to make sure the motor shaft turns in a clock-wise direction; to constantly tighten the shaft into the sanding disc.

Changing the direction the motor turns is simple. Just reverse the wire leads on the DC side of the buck converter board.

Otherwise the shaft will continually "unscrew" itself from the sanding disc.

Hope this helps!

@Junior posted:

Hey @Dallas Joseph....

Here's what I purchased/used.....

I also used a 1,000 rpm motor.....

And the following coupler.....

BTW....I forgot to mention....since the sanding disc screws onto the shaft, you have to make sure the motor shaft turns in a clock-wise direction; to constantly tighten the shaft into the sanding disc.

Changing the direction the motor turns is simple. Just reverse the wire leads on the DC side of the buck converter board.

Otherwise the shaft will continually "unscrew" itself from the sanding disc.

Hope this helps!

Thanks Junior.  Great amount of info on this project.  Well done sir.

Q: "WHAT’S ON THE WORKBENCH AT THE MOMENT?"

A: Piles and piles of projects and parts to sort out. I need to post a photo of my mess!

@Ricky Tanner posted:

Q: "WHAT’S ON THE WORKBENCH AT THE MOMENT?"

A: Piles and piles of projects and parts to sort out. I need to post a photo of my mess!

Ditto on that

Another prewar set restoration/rebuild, that I'm getting close to wrapping up. Stopped for a few days to go to York, but now back at it. The 154 was originally dark green, but I wanted it in dark gray, and it needed to be painted anyway, so now it's dark gray. The cars were repainted dark olive green, with maroon trim. I had originally thought dark gray roofs would look good, but I was wrong! As you can see in the last shot, they've since been repainted dark olive, to match the car bodies. I'm Just waiting on the decals to arrive, and this set will be done. Loco and cars were in really good shape (other than the old paint), so whoever has owned this set in it's 100 years has really taken good care of it. (Shot of the mechanism without loco shell shows it being wired for single direction. This was just for testing/break-in of the new motor brushes. Manual reverse has since been wired in as original).

Here it is! I present my workbench in all it's messy glory! Let's share our workbench pics!