@gunrunnerjohn posted:This is what I use for my workbench chair, pretty comfy.
John:
Where did you get the chair? How high off of the ground does the seat extend? Is there a maximum weight capacity for the chair?
Thanks for any information you can provide.
@Junior posted:@Norton....
Really, REALLY nice work on your conversion! Is this engine postwar? I've been thinking about converting one of my postwar Turbines (681) to a DC can motor w/ERR electronics. My conversion would be a tad easier considering the 681 doesn't chuff; just a constant roar fo steam and smoke!
I would greatly appreciate it if you would provide sources for the DC can motor and drive shaft linkage. The mounts all appear to be custom; made by you.
This engine was made in the late 1990s and had a separate driveshaft with worm.
I believe your 681 has the worm machined into the armature shaft. The motor is a Pittman 56 mm purchased from Lionel. Also a bit large for a 681 as a good portion would extend beyond the cab.
You would be better off finding a modern turbine that already has a DC motor. Williams and MTH made them and maybe Lionel on their PWC series. Then you could add ERR directly and not modify your Post War engine.
Pete
@Randy Harrison posted:John:
Where did you get the chair? How high off of the ground does the seat extend? Is there a maximum weight capacity for the chair?
Thanks for any information you can provide.
Paste this into Google, and it'll find it at Amazon. It's gone up around $30 since I bought it, but still only $123.
Office Star DC Series Deluxe Breathable Mesh Back Ergonomic Drafting Chair with Lumbar Support
Seat height 24" to 34" high, max weight 275 Pounds.
@Norton posted:This engine was made in the late 1990s and had a separate driveshaft with worm.
I believe your 681 has the worm machined into the armature shaft. The motor is a Pittman 56 mm purchased from Lionel. Also a bit large for a 681 as a good portion would extend beyond the cab.
You would be better off finding a modern turbine that already has a DC motor. Williams and MTH made them and maybe Lionel on their PWC series. Then you could add ERR directly and not modify your Post War engine.
Pete
Good point. There’s also the option of my installing an ERR AC Commander, but I haven’t had good luck with those. I put one in a postwar F3. The board was screwed to the frame. It ran okay (no cruise) but the board generated so much heat the frame’s tank (where the board was screwed to) got really warm! The engine was pulling a dummy and 5 passenger cars; so not that big of a load.
I ended up having the Pulmor motors replaced with DC can motors and put in a DC Commander w/Cruise. It runs really nice now.
@Junior posted:Good point. There’s also the option of my installing an ERR AC Commander, but I haven’t had good luck with those. I put one in a postwar F3. The board was screwed to the frame. It ran okay (no cruise) but the board generated so much heat the frame’s tank (where the board was screwed to) got really warm! The engine was pulling a dummy and 5 passenger cars; so not that big of a load.
I ended up having the Pulmor motors replaced with DC can motors and put in a DC Commander w/Cruise. It runs really nice now.
This is a Williams Turbine. The motor is a Mabuchi RS385 typically used in small engines and diesels. Its considerably smaller than the 56mm Pittman and still fills the cab.
Pete
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Paste this into Google, and it'll find it at Amazon. It's gone up around $30 since I bought it, but still only $123.
Office Star DC Series Deluxe Breathable Mesh Back Ergonomic Drafting Chair with Lumbar Support
Seat height 24" to 34" high, max weight 275 Pounds.
John:
Thank you VERY much! This is better than other options I have found that cost much more. Now, there is one of these in my future whether it be me purchasing it soon or trusting Santa Claus to deliver one under my tree.
I measured, and the drafting chair John has is too tall for my table. I have been looking at the desk chair alternatives, and will find one to ask Santa for like Randy.
Lighted Baggage Car with interior project. Baggage car is an add on to the LionChief Santa Fe SuperChief set. It is unlit. But the trucks are the same as the lit coaches but without the pickups.
The pickup roller was available from Lionel, but the outer wheel pickup strip was not (except for the mounting screw). Made my own from .003 phosphor bronze sheet (.005 would be better but couldn't find any). Did both trucks.
Floor insert was made from 1/16" polystyrene sheet with a wooden scale floor pattern printed on card stock and glued to the styrene with 3M Super77 Spray adhesive.
Made the light strip from same styrene sheet with holes that lined up with the LED mounting posts on the roof that get attached with black #2-28 self tapping screws for plastic. Cut two 3 LED sections from a roll and stuck them on opposite ends of the strip. A ZH-2P connector is the interface.
Bought two sets of "O Scale Luggage Cart Suitcase set Platform Accessories Multicolor" from an Ebay vendor. 24 pieces of luggage altogether. They already had a base color so I used various permanent marker colors to shade the textured part of the luggage then used the markers for the hinges, handles, etc.
Some wire routing under the floor.
I used one of the Greg M's PCB's that I had Osh Park make for me two years ago, soldered the components on it, tested it, mounted it in the center out of sight and it looks like this:
Completed baggage car on the track.
John
John:
Your passenger coaches are looking to be great. Also, thank you for the lead on the O scale luggage. I have been looking for good luggage for years. I just bought 4 sets.
@Randy Harrison posted:John:
Your passenger coaches are looking to be great. Also, thank you for the lead on the O scale luggage. I have been looking for good luggage for years. I just bought 4 sets.
Thanks Randy.
John
I bought a Lionel 17213 Susie-Q boxcar a couple of months ago. I thought it would be a great place to put a couple of hobos riding the rails inside. But, I wanted a bit more so I cut a wooden barrel in half, hollowed it out, painted the outside gray to mimic a metal barrel, and painted the inside black. I drilled 2 small holes at the base in order to run the wires from two flickering orange LEDs I bought from Evans Design. The tricky bit was adding a collector to the car. Luckily, Train Tender Jeff had all the parts I needed, but it still took some 'adjustments' in order to have them securely attached. I used one of GRJ's lighting modules to provide as uninterrupted current as possible to the lights since I did NOT want to add a collector to the other truck. I used some Arrista hobo figures, and some miscellaneous crates and boxes I bought from the bay in order to fill out the inside (and also cover the wires). I put some white cotton on top of the flickering LEDs to hide the bulbs and give the illusion of smoke.
I'm sure a lot of y'all could really have done a much better job, but I'm pleased enough with this. I certainly picked up a lot of good skills for working with models.
Nice! Really creative. Could I entice you to post a short video? Would love to see it in action!
Will do, but it'll be tomorrow or Sunday.
IT looks like the hobos have totally commandeered that Susie-Q car! Well done!
@Mark Boyce posted:I measured, and the drafting chair John has is too tall for my table. I have been looking at the desk chair alternatives, and will find one to ask Santa for like Randy.
Raise the desk! Cut 4 pieces wood to size of desk legs. Length, width, and height. Use a couple good size dowels in each leg. Drill into the desk legs bottom, measure and match to the extension blocks. Insert and glue dowels into the desk legs, and spread glue around on the desk legs then put glue into the extension blocks, tap the blocks onto the dowels. Allow to dry the glue and stain the blocks to match the legs and desk. It will work, I've done it before when I was a school Custodian and we needed to raise a wooden teacher's desk for a tall teacher. Teacher thought we found a higher desk for him!😁
@Gary P posted:Raise the desk! Cut 4 pieces wood to size of desk legs. Length, width, and height. Use a couple good size dowels in each leg. Drill into the desk legs bottom, measure and match to the extension blocks. Insert and glue dowels into the desk legs, and spread glue around on the desk legs then put glue into the extension blocks, tap the blocks onto the dowels. Allow to dry the glue and stain the blocks to match the legs and desk. It will work, I've done it before when I was a school Custodian and we needed to raise a wooden teacher's desk for a tall teacher. Teacher thought we found a higher desk for him!😁
Thank you! I thought about putting something under the desk legs, but didn’t think about making it permanent. It would be so much safer doing it the way you suggested. That’s great that the teacher thought it was a higher desk! 😄
I tried to record the glowing effect numerous times with different settings on my iPhone 13 camera. On the video you simply cannot see anything glowing, but the glowing/flickering effect is very perceptible to the eye. I saw no reason to post the video since it looks just like the photo.
As I said, I used 2 flickering orange LEDs from Evans Designs. I bought 3 and would have used them all, but I accidentally destroyed the third one.
@texgeekboy posted:I tried to record the glowing effect numerous times with different settings on my iPhone 13 camera. On the video you simply cannot see anything glowing, but the glowing/flickering effect is very perceptible to the eye. I saw no reason to post the video since it looks just like the photo.
As I said, I used 2 flickering orange LEDs from Evans Designs. I bought 3 and would have used them all, but I accidentally destroyed the third one.
@Junior I used the flickering fire kit from Evans for a burn barrel. It's a great addition to any scene.
Bob
How many LEDs did you have in there!
@texgeekboy posted:How many LEDs did you have in there!
I used the Pico LED kit. It has 3 leds
Hmmm, I hadn't noticed those types of LEDs. I just ordered a set and will post an updated pic if it ends up looking as good as yours.
Thanks!
@texgeekboy posted:I tried to record the glowing effect numerous times with different settings on my iPhone 13 camera. On the video you simply cannot see anything glowing, but the glowing/flickering effect is very perceptible to the eye. I saw no reason to post the video since it looks just like the photo.
As I said, I used 2 flickering orange LEDs from Evans Designs. I bought 3 and would have used them all, but I accidentally destroyed the third one.
Thanks for trying @texgeekboy your efforts are appreciated.
@RSJB18…nice scene. Love the light “animation”. Makes for a slick realistic scene.
With my truck in the shop and therefore unable to get my Masonite, I turned to a side job. This Atlas dbl track bridge was kinda of rough so some regluing & weathering is in order before it can take it’s intended place on the upcoming layout. The last owner was sloppier with glue than even me !
Rich
The bridge looks great, Rich. Mine was built by someone else, and he admitted he used the wrong type of glue. I didn’t ask what he used since he gave me a great price, I just glued everything that was remotely loose before painting.
@Mark Boyce posted:The bridge looks great, Rich. Mine was built by someone else, and he admitted he used the wrong type of glue. I didn’t ask what he used since he gave me a great price, I just glued everything that was remotely loose before painting.
Mark, btw, what glue do you recommend ? I’m afraid all my glues are getting pretty old.
@trestleking posted:Mark, btw, what glue do you recommend ? I’m afraid all my glues are getting pretty old.
I used a super glue (CA) from the hardware store. I don’t recall which brand. If I buy a large tube/bottle, it gets old as well.
Williams 4-6-0, with a TAS TMCC upgrade (really - I had an "old" TAS kit around a few years ago). No cruise needed - these locos are geared well.
It came painted for the Southern, but the color was so wrong. I re-Southerned it with Krylon Hunter Green, basic paint-pen gold striping, and decals (some very old). Then I added a center headlight (old brass piece). I would show a photo of the prototype that I followed, but it's not my photo, so I can't.
These Wms Ten-Wheelers are pretty generic and can stand-in for a variety of small steam power, all over the country. The cab shows "Mobile" for the SOU Mobile Division (headquartered in Selma, oddly), which is correct for this loco.
(Looks like my water standpipe needs a little re-alignment....)
I think that the Hunter Green blends with the MTH SOU green cars pretty well.
@D500 posted:Williams 4-6-0, with a TAS TMCC upgrade (really - I had an "old" TAS kit around a few years ago). No cruise needed - these locos are geared well.
It came painted for the Southern, but the color was so wrong. I re-Southerned it with Krylon Hunter Green, basic paint-pen gold striping, and decals (some very old). Then I added a center headlight (old brass piece). I would show a photo of the prototype that I followed, but it's not my photo, so I can't.
These Wms Ten-Wheelers are pretty generic and can stand-in for a variety of small steam power, all over the country. The cab shows "Mobile" for the SOU Mobile Division (headquartered in Selma, oddly), which is correct for this loco.
(Looks like my water standpipe needs a little re-alignment....)
I think that the Hunter Green blends with the MTH SOU green cars pretty well.
Nice work. I have a few Williams locos and they are well built and have adequate detailing. Wiring dual motor diesels in series only goes so far. I may try a Blunami upgrade on a couple of mine.
Bob
Not 3R, but fresh off the workbench. Still wrapping up the LED marker lights and have to mount the smoke unit, but so far so good.
I have started detailing my Mohawk project. Added the missing valve gear using Lionel L2a parts, plus linkages for the Baker reverse, a lubricator, coupler lift bar, cab deck plate and curtains. Test run by remote control while taking job applications for the crew. Now on to the piping.
Pete
Just added the drumhead to my Frisco Firefly paint scheme Heavyweights.
N
Pittman motor installation in Weaver Dreyfuss Hudson. Amazingly, the Pittman mounting holes matched the mounting ring for the original Mabuchi motor. Brass not-quite-a-flywheel had to be bored out from 3.18 to 4.0 mm to accommodate the larger Pittman shaft. As expected, its top speed is less than prototypical. due to the Weaver gear ratio and Pittman RPMs. This is the first phase of a larger project, which will include upgrading to ERR motor control and Lionel Railsounds. Fan-driven smoke won't be done this year, but may be added in the future.
Just finished adding LED Christmas lights to a Railking ES44AC. Went a little above and beyond the standard LED lighting used in the past:
Lots on the bench tonight. With the days so short now, I have more inside time to work on my stuff. The FA's are getting side frame work, the Weaver truck is getting some wheel work, the SF box is getting a broken stirrup fixed and the newly acquired MP box has zinc pest on a truck and needs some truck work. Looks like I have enough to keep my busy for a few days.
The parts came in yesterday for my previous repair projects and those were finished up last night. Next up is my Veranda. This thing has not been treated well. When I got it both sub-frames were warped and the loco wouldn't even negotiate an O-72 curve with out derailing. I got that fixed and found that both smoke units had zinc pest, a previous owner put the wrong screw in one of the center body mount holes and ran it up through the walkway, the two rear posts were broken off and not repaired properly and one of the light contacts in the front was broken and not repaired properly. I ordered some parts, but I forgot about some and need to order more to get this loco back up to spec. The wire harness was a mess and some of the wires were mashed between the frame and the shell. Luckily no real damage, so I got the zip ties out and dressed the harness up so it won't get pinched, chafed or bind up. Hopefully the parts will be in by the end of next week and I'll move on to the next project, probably my two unit "Big Blow" GTEL with a bad smoke unit in the B unit.
It hasn't been quite 2 weeks since I last posted the status of the flickering fire saga. I got the Fire LEDs from Evans Designs as @RSJB18 suggested. I had some troubles in getting them installed, so I had to do a second order. Anyway, the order came in yesterday, so I went to my work area and with a clear head got them installed. I installed 2 of the nano (not pico) fire leds, again with GRJs light module. They worked very well, but they did take some adjusting for my preference. I thought that the red LED was too dominant over the 2 yellow LEDs after installing them in my home made barrel. I had to take a tooth pick and carefully tilt the red LEDs downward to minimize the light. I can still see them in the flicker, but now at a level I like.
The flicker when looking at the video on my iPhone is way more visible than in the attached movie, and of course in real life it is very visible.
The flickering “fire” looks great! I’m guessing you had to take the shell off of the frame to install everything. Did you also have to install “third rail” 😆 pickups or were you able to tie into an existing power source (I’m not to familiar with this car).
I gotta tell ya…fantastic job!👍
@texgeekboy posted:It hasn't been quite 2 weeks since I last posted the status of the flickering fire saga. I got the Fire LEDs from Evans Designs as @RSJB18 suggested. I had some troubles in getting them installed, so I had to do a second order. Anyway, the order came in yesterday, so I went to my work area and with a clear head got them installed. I installed 2 of the nano (not pico) fire leds, again with GRJs light module. They worked very well, but they did take some adjusting for my preference. I thought that the red LED was too dominant over the 2 yellow LEDs after installing them in my home made barrel. I had to take a tooth pick and carefully tilt the red LEDs downward to minimize the light. I can still see them in the flicker, but now at a level I like.
The flicker when looking at the video on my iPhone is way more visible than in the attached movie, and of course in real life it is very visible.
Oh...did I forget to mention that the wires on these kits are about as fragile as you can get.......
I did two kits also. Had the first one all set and I broke the wire to one of the LED's on "final assembly". 
The end result was worth the effort. The barrel looks great!
Bob
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