WHAT’S ON THE WORKBENCH AT THE MOMENT

Hey Dallas: Thanks for the kind words.

When it comes to early PS1 boards, they are very finnicky, and will only respond to certain transformers. I already have a long post on the forum about this specific subject. As I've said many times before......it's one of the many mysteries of life!!!

Gunrunner John: Thanks for the info on the headlight power points on the PS! boards. Still not 100% sure on what is what, and is the power AC or DC at these plug points???

I have included a couple of photos of one of the PS1 boards you recently sent me (got them yesterday). Can you tell me which plugs activate the forward headligh,t and which one activates the reverse light??

There is also a Yellow plug sandwiched between the two boards....what is its purpose???

Finally, there is a second set of prongs on the top board (similar to the speaker prongs) overhanging the micro processer.....what is their purpose???

John, thank you once again for all of your help in the past.....I really appreciate it.

Peter....Buco Australia

@RSJB18 posted:

Looks great Lou. Question- I noticed the lights flash when you powered up the engine. I'm wrapping up a PS3/2 stacker install on a Alco S2 and have seen the same condition with the lighting. Any idea why they do this?
The electrician in me has my OCD meter pinned......

Bob

The flash you saw on the SP PA was the MARS light kicking on. It has a PS3 diesel board with LEDs.

The flash you're seeing with the PS32 board is fairly normal. I've noticed they all do that when they haven't been powred in a bit or are powered conventionally. It's some quick in the programming, but doesn't hurt anything.

I picked up a Legacy SW-1200 from a forum member recently. Gave it a quick service and lube, it's a new (2022) engine so I figured it was good to go. Put it on the track, programmed, and off it went. After a few minutes, it stopped and the cab light started flashing.....not a good sign. A quick check of the manual yielded an answer. The blinking cab indicates a motor over-current issue. Since this is a shaft-drive diesel, I figured it was a lack of lubrication in the trucks.

Never took one of these apart before so after removing the shell for no apparent reason, I figured out how to drop the trucks to access the worm gear. Bingo! Not a hint of grease to be found. Added grease to the worm and drive gears, also added a drop of oil to the universal joints. All went well, putting the shaft back into the universal joint to reset the truck on the frame is a lot of fun. But so is root canal......

If any of the experts can offer any hints on something I missed, please share.

Bob

Bob, please explain to your wife that the reason you make additional purchases isn’t because you want to. The real reason is for her benefit so that you can stave off dementia by enhancing your problem solving and critical thinking skills. Doctors should write prescriptions for us. Well done on resolving the situation. You deserve a fine malt beverage.

Jay

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Bob, please explain to your wife that the reason you make additional purchases isn’t because you want to. The real reason is for her benefit so that you can stave off dementia by enhancing your problem solving and critical thinking skills. Doctors should write prescriptions for us. Well done on resolving the situation. You deserve a fine malt beverage.

Jay

Hmmmm.....Good idea Jay.

I believe @Mark V. Spadaro was an ER doc. Any chance he still has prescription pads??????

Bob

Bob, I would have thought it would have grease new, bit you aren’t the first to mention this oversight.

Jay, that’s a great idea!  😄

@Mark Boyce posted:

Bob, I would have thought it would have grease new, bit you aren’t the first to mention this oversight.

Jay, that’s a great idea!  😄

Yea- grease was my first thought after Pat @harmonyards had been looking at the lubrication issues with a new steam engine recently.

Thanks

Peter’s retired too. I think they could have a specialized on line practice. There is an urgent need for this new found specialty.

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Peter’s retired too. I think they could have a specialized on line practice. There is an urgent need for this new found specialty.

Brings new meaning to Train Doctor. 🤣🤣

So true, the expertise offered by members is a primary reason why I enjoy this forum so much, and a Single Malt works for me too.  Thanks Bob and Jay, good work and a great idea.

Ogaugecologist, report to the train room, STAT!🚂

@Buco posted:

Gunrunner John: Thanks for the info on the headlight power points on the PS! boards. Still not 100% sure on what is what, and is the power AC or DC at these plug points???

I have included a couple of photos of one of the PS1 boards you recently sent me (got them yesterday). Can you tell me which plugs activate the forward headligh,t and which one activates the reverse light??

There is also a Yellow plug sandwiched between the two boards....what is its purpose???

Peter, the yellow plug is a beacon LED that blinks.  The blue connector is the front headlight and the green one is the rear headlight.  They are 1.5VDC and typically drive GOW incandescent bulbs, the voltage is too low for LED's.  You can, with a little work, use a darlington opto-coupler and drive LED's from the 1.5V lighting output.

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Bob, please explain to your wife that the reason you make additional purchases isn’t because you want to. The real reason is for her benefit so that you can stave off dementia by enhancing your problem solving and critical thinking skills. Doctors should write prescriptions for us. Well done on resolving the situation. You deserve a fine malt beverage.

Jay

That's actually what I've told my wife in the past. Honey, this hobby keeps and will keep my mind sharp for years.Then her reaction and reply of  A roll of the eyes, and a "Stop making excuses , and just enjoy life and buy it already."

But yeah, it amazes me how some stuff leaves the factory with a lack of grease or oil. I've never bought a brand new current engine, but if I did I'm still taking it apart. For what these things cost I'm not taking the chance. Even if it's under warranty I assume it's gotta be a hassle with all the shipping and waiting.

Thank you john......grain of wheat (GOW) light globes are now about to be fitted to my "production sample" project, to finish it off!!!

I "won" a full MTH parts/maintenance kit in a past Cabin Fever Auction, and guess what is in it????......lots of these GOW globes!!!!

Also....can you please tell me what the second set of "prongs" on the PS1 top board are for, as shown in my third (last) photo???

Thank you again.......Peter (Buco Australia)

Building 8 feet of curved trestle.  Lots of detail work and custom jigs, not to mention a bunch of clamps.  Can’t have too many clamps.

I took a short change of models. I am about 1/4th through a 1/35th model of a German Tiger 1 tank. Can't wait toi finish so I can get back to a bunch os Walther's Milw passenger cars.

Dick

@jstraw124 posted:

Building 8 feet of curved trestle.  Lots of detail work and custom jigs, not to mention a bunch of clamps.  Can’t have too many clamps.

Every time I think I have enough clamps, I have to go out and buy more.
Nice work on the trestle.

Nice shop too.

Bob

Yep, when building the platform, a lot of clamps were used!

One end of the deck...

Let's not forget the other end...

Then the second layer of the fascia went on, and I had to buy more spring clamps, the 90 I had weren't enough!  The fascia still went on in stages, not enough clamps to do it all at once.

What's off the workbench- project being called substantially complete!

I finished the rebuild of the first of 2 MTH S2's purchased as projects from Cabin Fever. The LNE engine was upgraded with stacker 3/2 boards. I had a problem with the electro-couplers that turned out to be a simple fix. The rear coupler was shorting against the frame, so I cut a piece of shrink wrap to isolate the terminals. Don't know why I didn't see it before, but now I have 3 sets of new EC's for future projects.
I'm still deciding what to do about the broken handrail on the right side.

I'm out of black shrink, so white will have to do for now.

And I added a LNE 2-bay hopper to the fleet.

Bob

Everything here seems to be o gauge so I'll add a little standard gauge.

Lionel #8 to go with the passenger car in my previous post

@RSJB18 posted:

What's off the workbench- project being called substantially complete!

I finished the rebuild of the first of 2 MTH S2's purchased as projects from Cabin Fever. The LNE engine was upgraded with stacker 3/2 boards. I had a problem with the electro-couplers that turned out to be a simple fix. The rear coupler was shorting against the frame, so I cut a piece of shrink wrap to isolate the terminals. Don't know why I didn't see it before, but now I have 3 sets of new EC's for future projects.
I'm still deciding what to do about the broken handrail on the right side.

I'm out of black shrink, so white will have to do for now.

And I added a LNE 2-bay hopper to the fleet.

Bob

Nice looking engine and nice fix for the electro-coupler.  You will find a use for the extra couplers, I'm sure.

@Pete in Kansas posted:

Lionel #8 to go with the passenger car in my previous post

That is very cool. 👍

Pete

@Pete in Kansas posted:

Lionel #8 to go with the passenger car in my previous post

Love them BOTH, Pete!

Great job

@RSJB18 posted:

What's off the workbench- project being called substantially complete!

I finished the rebuild of the first of 2 MTH S2's purchased as projects from Cabin Fever. The LNE engine was upgraded with stacker 3/2 boards. I had a problem with the electro-couplers that turned out to be a simple fix. The rear coupler was shorting against the frame, so I cut a piece of shrink wrap to isolate the terminals. Don't know why I didn't see it before, but now I have 3 sets of new EC's for future projects.
I'm still deciding what to do about the broken handrail on the right side.

I'm out of black shrink, so white will have to do for now.

And I added a LNE 2-bay hopper to the fleet.

Bob

I’m telling you Bob, your neuronal networks are expanding. Excellent job!

Jay

Ok @Mark Boyce, you ask and you will receive! To finish the latest Whitcomb build it's off the workbench and on the layout!

Darrell, it looks great, sounds great, runs great!  Thank you.  I see there is a short article about Blunami in the latest OGR magazine but I haven’t read it yet.  I’ve read some of the posts about Blumami, but don’t have a handle on it yet.

@Darrell posted:

Ok @Mark Boyce, you ask and you will receive! To finish the latest Whitcomb build it's off the workbench and on the layout!

Very very nice Darrell.  Congrats.

John

Blunami is a game changer for sure. It is a Soundtrax Tsunami2 DCC decoder that uses blutooth as it's interface to the operator, no command station needed! Of course it will still work with a DCC command station and works great with the computer program JMRI for set up and control. You can now operate your trains with the Blunami app on your phones and tablets, with a hardware remote with a DCC command station of your choice, or with the JMRI software on your computer ( must have DCC station to interface with ). We can now experience what all the other scales have without buying a new system! The best part is you can upgrade all your conventional DC can motored loco's to command control with out waiting for kits or new command systems that only work for one manufacture's loco's and still be able to run them all on the same layout!

Thank you Darrell for the concise description.

@Darrell...

Boy....I just wish Blunami was available a few years earlier. IMHO, MTH may have seen the writing on the wall for DCS when they started implementing DCC into their engines (or maybe just going after the DCC "evangelists".....or both).

Just my 2 cents.....

Well, MTH started PS3 with their HO/S gauge lines so DCC was a must. I'm happy they included it when they brought it over to O gauge.

Changed up a MTH Flatcar. What bugged me most about the car was ride height of the deck when adding Kadee’s and the oversize brake staff and stirrups. 2 out of the three are taken care of for now. In order to lower the car. I used the sideframes from a Lionscale truck. I made a new center section out of aluminum. There isn’t much going on around the truck area so you can get the car to a prototypical height. I used a piece cut off an Atlas coupler. It has 2 threaded bosses. 2mm and 3mm. A bonded rubber washer was used on the inside and the piece comes up through the bottom and is mounted with a 3mm screw. This leaves a threaded boss to accept a 2mm screw on the underside.

A new center section was made for the Lionel truck. The mounting hole was drilled to slip over the threaded boss and the sideframes holes were drilled and tapped for 2.5 mm screws. I finished the ends of the mount off on a disc sander to insure a tight fit to the sideframes so everything remains square. You could add 2 more screws. But I don’t feel they are needed if you can end up with a tight fit.

The truck mounts with a 2mm screw. I ended up cutting the head off a longer screw after it was in place with Loctite. I then secured the truck with a nylon lock nut which allowed for a fine adjustment that will stay put. Rather than needing to find the perfect length screw or relying on locktite to keep the adjustment.

I used a brake wheel from Precision Scale and used some Phosphor bronze rod for the shaft. The stirrups are for another day. I have some nice ones I was saving for another project. You can see the difference in ride height over a stock model. The loads were made up to fit over the stock mounting pins on the MTH deck.

The car sits like it should now. I ordered a few pairs of the Lionscale trucks at the 1/2 price sale. Don’t know yet if I have any coming. They are no longer in stock. But any of the newer style Lionel truck that everyone hates should work seeing you are ditching the mounting portion and just need the sideframes. I realize this post is not for everyone. As most don’t run Kadee’s. I see a lot of all military load consists with these cars. Converting them wouldn’t involve your entire fleet seeing most times they run as a unit consist. If the height bugs you there are ways to fix them. If I knew how to 3D print I’m sure a better mount could be fabricated.

@Dave_C posted:

Changed up a MTH Flatcar. What bugged me most about the car was ride height of the deck when adding Kadee’s and the oversize brake staff and stirrups. 2 out of the three are taken care of for now. In order to lower the car. I used the sideframes from a Lionscale truck. I made a new center section out of aluminum. There isn’t much going on around the truck area so you can get the car to a prototypical height. I used a piece cut off an Atlas coupler. It has 2 threaded bosses. 2mm and 3mm. A bonded rubber washer was used on the inside and the piece comes up through the bottom and is mounted with a 3mm screw. This leaves a threaded boss to accept a 2mm screw on the underside.

A new center section was made for the Lionel truck. The mounting hole was drilled to slip over the threaded boss and the sideframes holes were drilled and tapped for 3mm screws. I finished the ends of the mount off on a disc sander to insure a tight fit to the sideframes so everything remains square. You could add 2 more screws. But I don’t feel they are needed if you can end up with a tight fit.

The truck mounts with a 2mm screw. I ended up cutting the head off a longer screw after it was in place with Loctite. I then secured the truck with a nylon lock nut which allowed for a fine adjustment that will stay put. Rather than needing to find the perfect length screw or relying on locktite to keep the adjustment.

I used a brake wheel from Precision Scale and used some Phosphor bronze rod for the shaft. The stirrups are for another day. I have some nice ones I was saving for another project. You can see the difference in ride height over a stock model. The loads were made up to fit over the stock mounting pins on the MTH deck.

The car sits like it should now. I ordered a few pairs of the Lionscale trucks at the 1/2 price sale. Don’t know yet if I have any coming. They are no longer in stock. But any of the newer style Lionel truck that everyone hates should work seeing you are ditching the mounting portion and just need the sideframes. I realize this post is not for everyone. As most don’t run Kadee’s. I see a lot of all military load consists with these cars. Converting them wouldn’t involve your entire fleet seeing most times they run as a unit consist. If the height bugs you there are ways to fix them. If I knew how to 3D print I’m sure a better mount could be fabricated.

Clearly you don’t need a 3D printer!….this is clean work here!……I’m a huge fan of nylon lock nuts for this type of work!…..infinite adjustability, hair bit of wobble?, set it & forget it!…..I keep Jam nuts in every flavor available,……😉

Pat

@Dave_C posted:

Changed up a MTH Flatcar. What bugged me most about the car was ride height of the deck when adding Kadee’s and the oversize brake staff and stirrups. 2 out of the three are taken care of for now. In order to lower the car. I used the sideframes from a Lionscale truck. I made a new center section out of aluminum. There isn’t much going on around the truck area so you can get the car to a prototypical height. I used a piece cut off an Atlas coupler. It has 2 threaded bosses. 2mm and 3mm. A bonded rubber washer was used on the inside and the piece comes up through the bottom and is mounted with a 3mm screw. This leaves a threaded boss to accept a 2mm screw on the underside.

A new center section was made for the Lionel truck. The mounting hole was drilled to slip over the threaded boss and the sideframes holes were drilled and tapped for 3mm screws. I finished the ends of the mount off on a disc sander to insure a tight fit to the sideframes so everything remains square. You could add 2 more screws. But I don’t feel they are needed if you can end up with a tight fit.

The truck mounts with a 2mm screw. I ended up cutting the head off a longer screw after it was in place with Loctite. I then secured the truck with a nylon lock nut which allowed for a fine adjustment that will stay put. Rather than needing to find the perfect length screw or relying on locktite to keep the adjustment.

I used a brake wheel from Precision Scale and used some Phosphor bronze rod for the shaft. The stirrups are for another day. I have some nice ones I was saving for another project. You can see the difference in ride height over a stock model. The loads were made up to fit over the stock mounting pins on the MTH deck.

The car sits like it should now. I ordered a few pairs of the Lionscale trucks at the 1/2 price sale. Don’t know yet if I have any coming. They are no longer in stock. But any of the newer style Lionel truck that everyone hates should work seeing you are ditching the mounting portion and just need the sideframes. I realize this post is not for everyone. As most don’t run Kadee’s. I see a lot of all military load consists with these cars. Converting them wouldn’t involve your entire fleet seeing most times they run as a unit consist. If the height bugs you there are ways to fix them. If I knew how to 3D print I’m sure a better mount could be fabricated.

Wow @Dave_C.....

Really nice and concise work!

@Dave_C posted:

The car sits like it should now.

Nice Dave.

Kadees or regular it looks like the flat car couplers look like they match up with the OEM height of the regular couplers which would allow time to do other  cars and still be able to run trains in the meantime.

I unboxed a locomotive that I bought several years ago from Trainz last night. It's a MTH Premier Penn Central RS-27 with the early QSI/ PS1 sounds. Issued in 1997 Vol 2 catalog.
It's a great looking engine. Looks like it was never taken out of the box.

First step was replacing the white battery of death with a GRJ super cap. The screws for removing the body are buried under the trucks on this. It took some juggling but I was able to get the screws out and the shell off finally. I put the engine on the tracks to test before doing the lubrication and it fired right up. I gave it some time to charge the boards and cycled the power to get it moving.
The sounds ramped up and it seems like it wants to move, but won't. I'm guessing hardened grease. So it's back on the bench until I can take it apart again.

Bob

Bob, it’s been a long time since I ran a PS 1 engine. I remember them not responding to my Al Trol throttle that was linked to my ZW. They would just sit there and not move out of neutral.  The workaround for me was to get it moving using the handle of the ZW then quickly flip a toggle and then you could run it using the Al Trol throttle.
The not moving could be transformer related. I think they were designed to run with postwar transformers.But it’s also a good idea to check out the grease.

@Dave_C posted:

Bob, it’s been a long time since I ran a PS 1 engine. I remember them not responding to my Al Trol throttle that was linked to my ZW. They would just sit there and not move out of neutral.  The workaround for me was to get it moving using the handle of the ZW then quickly flip a toggle and then you could run it using the Al Trol throttle.
The not moving could be transformer related. I think they were designed to run with postwar transformers.But it’s also a good idea to check out the grease.

I have a bunch of PS-1's and they work fine with my KW. I'm sure its mechanical. The wheels don't even move when I try and rock them. I found a video on Youtube of a guy reviewing the same engine. He found a loose motor mount in his so it could be the problem too.

Thanks

I had acquired a Lionel #38 operating water tower a while back in an auction lot, which was cosmetically near perfect and the spout lowered upon activation, but the pumping action (which simulates offloading water) was MIA. Today I got around to troubleshooting, after I managed to open the piece up. Here's pics of the piece, and the process of troubleshooting:

[Sorry for the poor pic above, but the white motor and pump are at least visible in the middle, with one hose removed.]

After I got the pump housing open, a few power cycles freed up the assembly, and it has run reliably after reassembly ever since:

Even with many times the recommended 7-10 drops of official dye, the color is still faint, much less visible than shown on the box photo! Ah, well, at least it works now!