WHAT’S ON THE WORKBENCH AT THE MOMENT

@FrankRazz posted:

I want to remove the numbers and replace them with the below decals.  The "Ride the....Travel easy" goes above the windows.  I have the MYH original 5 car set, see below, I just want to add four more cars.

If when removing the numbers you damage some of the base color, you should be able to find a close color match from TCP (Tru- Color Paint) or other supplier, and just repaint the panel.    Then gloss it and add the decals, etc.   Looks like the final finish should be Testers 1260T Dullcote.   Good luck with your project!

Cheers, Dave

The Mighty Cab-Forward 2-4-0. (I think that the SP called them "cab-aheads").

Tender un-modified (I did convert it to oil) and un-restored. Pre War O-gauge American Flyer. It even came (eBay) with the SP decals already on it. I call in a "Vanderwhale" type, as the die-cast tooling mixes Vanderbilt and whaleback shapes in the tank area.

Knurled driver surface removed; no more "g-r-r-r".

Below - Started with this. Decided to not use the Lionel slope-back "roach" tender, though I like them. Do not like the cheesy side rods on these engines.

A real PITA project, it turns out. Runs very well - good gearing, heavy flywheel. Still using the 30-year-old MTH/QSI rev unit.

ERR would be nice....

Years ago Kemtron had a casting to convert the Varney Little Joe to cab forward.

I picked up a Menards mystery box several months ago.  It came with a lighted Morton Salt pickup but the plug had been cut off.   I picked up a plug without the connector from someone in a Menard’s Facebook group (thanks Kurt) and was able to solder it back together.  A pretty simple fix, but the small wires and compact design made it more challenging than I was expecting.  Glad to have it fully working.  

@Scotie posted:

Years ago Kemtron had a casting to convert the Varney Little Joe to cab forward.

I was wondering if anyone would remember that. I still have my Varney Docksider, but never tried the Kemtron conversion. I was young. Late 1950's - early 1960's.  I believe that they offered a separate sale small Vandy tender to go with it. I think that I still have a Kemtron catalogue somewhere.

That Varney/Kemtron thing was the reason I did this 3RO version of it. Finally I have my cab-forward-ette. I was first intending to use the ROW brass version of the loco, but it was just too pretty, and, oddly, the MTH RK loco actually runs smoother than the ROW version.

An MTH wedge plow for installing KD couplers.

@D500 posted:

I was first intending to use the ROW brass version of the loco, but it was just too pretty, and, oddly, the MTH RK loco actually runs smoother than the ROW version.

Really?  Doesn't your RK Docksider have the corrugated wheels?  I have one I converted to TMCC, but it is noisy.  Runs great and actually pulls quite a load, but makes a lot of racket doing it.

@D500 posted:

The Mighty Cab-Forward 2-4-0. (I think that the SP called them "cab-aheads").

Knurled driver surface removed; no more "g-r-r-r".

Neat loco. Never saw a cab forward tank engine.

I have 3 of the MTH 0-4-0's. What was your method for removing the knurling on the drive wheels? I've considered running it upside down and holding a dremel grinding wheel to wheels.

I love the engines but hate the washing machine noise.

Bob

I would think your technique of running it upside down and removing them would work.  I would recommend the sanding disks, they work better and last longer.  You could also consider the carbide cutters, but they work fast and might get away from you.

I tapered the wheels of my Lionel PRR T1 Duplex using the Dremel sanding disk, rotating the wheels.  It worked out well and was easier than I thought it would be.  I finished it off with a Cratex Wheel to make a smooth surface on the taper.

Not exactly on the workbench but close enough. After many years, some of the guys and myself got together at the La Habra Childrens Museum for a major track and shelf cleaning. Thomas has been getting very cranky lately.

Steve

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I would think your technique of running it upside down and removing them would work.  I would recommend the sanding disks, they work better and last longer.  You could also consider the carbide cutters, but they work fast and might get away from you.

I tapered the wheels of my Lionel PRR T1 Duplex using the Dremel sanding disk, rotating the wheels.  It worked out well and was easier than I thought it would be.  I finished it off with a Cratex Wheel to make a smooth surface on the taper.

I indeed removed the knurled driver surfaces, using a Dremel turning at moderate speed, and the loco's wheel turning fairly slowly. The loco isn't a lathe, so the Dremel did the work while the turning drivers constantly presented a new surface. I just used one of the Dremel's grinder bits - sort of a slim one to reduce interference with the flanges. Just hold the tool steady with the loco on its back in a cradle, clipped for power. Moderate speeds. Patience. Loco still pulls well. Wheels still round.

You mentioned doing something like this on your Lionel PRR T1. I have that loco, and this success with the Dremel and the cab-forward made me wonder about that loco's wide blind driver issue on some switches. Nice to know that a similar method can work on the T1, too.

@D500 posted:

You mentioned doing something like this on your Lionel PRR T1. I have that loco, and this success with the Dremel and the cab-forward made me wonder about that loco's wide blind driver issue on some switches. Nice to know that a similar method can work on the T1, too.

Before tapering the wheels, it wasn't possible to run the T1 Duplex on my layout, it shorted on the curved switches and the double-slip switches.  If you tried to use the out route of a plain #4 switch, it would short there too.  I used a Dremel sanding tool with a coarse drum, it didn't load up as fast as the grinding wheel does, and I have lots of the little sanding drums.  It was finished off using the Cratex abrasive wheel.

@dkdkrd posted:

Back in early July I posted to this thread an old Walthers kit build-in-process...

It was ready for the paint shop.  However, one of the things that intrigued me...besides the whimsical nature of this MOW creation...was the box label showing ATSF lettering of the car.  I wondered that this, too, was whimsical fantasy.  I sent out some inquiries seeking verification, but got zippo responses.

Ergo, we pressed onward, fearlessly...

Pardon those bodacious dummy couplers.  Since this MOW beast will probably just sit on a sidetrack with its kindred creations, these 'Lobstah Claw-compatibles' are sufficient to the cause.  Archbar trucks are Athearn, but with IM metal O2R wheelsets in place of the plastic-wheeled O3R axles...which work just fine on Ross/Gargrave rails...or sitting on a sidetrack!

No, probably not prototypical.  I don't care.  It was funky fun.

Next up?...modifying an ATSF Ambroid Caboose kit to represent a different version of their early waycars.  The workbench IS my current 'man cave'!!

KD

This turned out great.  I like the added details like the barrels and gas cans.  No one can make me believe the Santa Fe never rostered some homemade MOW car like this.

@FrankRazz posted:

I need to remove the car numbers from Lionel's latest LIRR passenger cars.  Any suggestions on the best way without damage to the car color?

Frank there's been lots of topics about removing lettering without damaging the underlying paint. A search will turn up numerous methods.  I've had success with Testor's Easy Lift Off (ELO).  and Mr. Clean Magic Erasers.  The ELO is a slow acting paint remover that will remove the lettering and leave the base paint.  Follow the instructions and keep it on the numbers and you should be fine. I got my can at Forum Sponsor Trainland but I'm sure Nassau Hobby would have it also.  The Magic Eraser will work but may alter the finish of the base paint while not removing it but since you're re-decaling you'll probably dullcote any way so that shouldn't be a problem.  I used an electric draftsman's eraser once and stripped LIONEL LINES right of the tender of an 0-8-0 switcher.  It didn't hurt the base paint but it did polish it a little to satin sheen.  I also remember Chris Lonero using a Pink Pearl eraser to remove PENNSYLVANIA from the side of a WbB 44 tonner.

D500 this is incredible!  A lot of imagination to turn the ubiquitous dock sider into a cab ahead and then adding such a unique tender.  At first I missed the 2-4-0 wheel arrangement but then realized you added that leading truck also.  You did a masterful job cutting 4294 to fit the back, er front of the 2-4-0 cab.

Upgrading the flasher to led’s and a Dalee flashing circuit.

@coach joe posted:

D500 this is incredible!  A lot of imagination to turn the ubiquitous dock sider into a cab ahead and then adding such a unique tender.  At first I missed the 2-4-0 wheel arrangement but then realized you added that leading truck also.  You did a masterful job cutting 4294 to fit the back, er front of the 2-4-0 cab.

Thanks for the kind words. It was a bigger project than I expected (as is often the case), but I am pleased with the results. The loco runs very well, but is only conventional. I may add ERR CC to it - but I'm not sure. I'm just glad to be through with it, at least for now.

I was inspired by a Kemtron detail company (long out of business) HO cab-forward kit for the Varney Docksider. I still have my Varney. The kit included the cab front and a 4-wheel front truck. A tender was available. I was 12 or so, and my skills and allowance made that kit a bit daunting. I had recently put my Lionel equipment and track away (I had had a layout since '54) and had decided to go with HO from then on.

You see how well that worked out.

Today it was off the workbench and onto the patio.   What a prime day for adding primer to my completed Hart ballast hoppers!

So, What's on your patio???

Cheers,  Dave

Upgrades to my Weaver Magma GP38, added ERR cruise commander along with railsounds commander. I have no idea how I got it all to fit! LOL

Original electronics.

Cruise commander installed.

All back together, complete with handrails this time.

Test run!

Work on my CNW heavyweight consist continues. Got the baggage car in CNW paint. Just need to do the observation car and the set is done.

fifth one in the roster.

New acquisition needs some TLC.  2001 MTH unshrouded J just needs a speaker replacement and some upgraded sound files.

             Rail king to Premier...

Hoppers in final color.   Now resting for a 48+ hour cure!  

Cheers, Dave

Got the CNW observation done and completed the set. Baggage, two coaches, diner, sleeper, observation. Now my Premier CNW E4 Hudson has something to pull.

I have a couple of wheel sets that need to be re-gauged.   They need to be slightly wider- flange to flange.   Any suggestions?   Thanks!

Dave

I got a great 356 station from Stout Auctions a while back and just got to it. I took out the old incandescent bulb (left the holder), and put a small (3) warm white LED string in the roof bracket and the same inside the station house.

@darlander posted:

I have a couple of wheel sets that need to be re-gauged.   They need to be slightly wider- flange to flange.   Any suggestions?   Thanks!

Dave

Dave- get a wheel puller from Frank at Timko. Works like a charm. The digital caliper was $40.00 at HD.

I've had issues with a few of my Menards cars.

@darlander posted:

I have a couple of wheel sets that need to be re-gauged.   They need to be slightly wider- flange to flange.   Any suggestions?   Thanks!

Dave

The Timko wheel puller works pretty well for this, just carefully crank down until you get them at the right spacing.  I did a bunch of Menard's cars, and I found that I could manage to do it without taking the wheelsets out of the trucks, a major time savings for Menard's trucks.

Reguaging Menard's Boxcar Wheels The Easy Way

Started on the unpainted Premier ATSF Texas I picked up from Cabin Fever earlier in the year. Tender was unpainted, so I painted/decaled/clear coated it over the past couple of days. Paint is SEM Trim Black with SEM 1K clear sprayed over it.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

The Timko wheel puller works pretty well for this, just carefully crank down until you get them at the right spacing.  I did a bunch of Menard's cars, and I found that I could manage to do it without taking the wheelsets out of the trucks, a major time savings for Menard's trucks.

Reguaging Menard's Boxcar Wheels The Easy Way

Found a friend with a wheel puller and he fixed them on Saturday.   The wheel sets were Weaver.   I also have issues with some Menard's boxcars that are currently on a display shelf because of wheel gauge issues.   Will save that fix for another day.  The car that needed the fix would spark on this switch.   The spark would cause my resting engines to start up.   Another remedy, I put a small strip of electrical tape along the side edge of the center rail.    

Cheers, Dave

Repainting to southern railway

A new ballast load is in the mold.   It's the first of 4 new ones needed for the recently completed Hart hoppers!

Cheers, Dave

Hoppers receiving decals.   One side completed!

Cheers, Dave

These just finished rolling off my bench this week. Some custom painted Lionel 607/608 cars. I started with five cars (four observation cars and one coach), with a mismatch of trucks, journal covers, end platform colors, underframe pieces, roof pieces, etc. and turned them into this, with a pile of parts left over!

Full story here.

More work on the ATSF Texas. Cab decaled and cleared, boiler painted. The SEM Trim Black produces such a good finish from the rattle can there's no need to mix it and spray it with a gun.

Been working on a matt board/card stock station for the wife's "glitterhouse" collection:

Loosely based on the Dorfan 425 from 1930-ish. Numerous modifications in height, length, window placement, and the addition of interior walls. Made a set of windows using MS Excel, printed on translucent vellum paper. Hoping to pair it with the signal tower made earlier:

Just finished the "preservation" of the 3461 green lumber unloading car. This was purchased in August and needed the usual coupler springs and wheel cleaning however the unloading platform was a bit rusted and the brake stand was missing. I used the Krylon flat black spray paint in a light coat to overcoat the rust on the platform. The posts looked OK and were not all repainted. The Krylon is a decent match (not perfect) for the original treated metal but once the logs are on the car, it is close enough. The 3451 brake stand was originally a press fit/rivet onto the car body. Without a press, its tough to get it really tight without damaging the integral rivet so after spreading the rivet, I added a little gorilla glue to finish the installation. The car works like new. A couple of pictures are below.

No pictures of my latest project.

I bought a beautiful S gauge Hiawatha 4-4-2 and four streamlined cars. The train is a knockout and the Milwaukee Road class A Atlantic and beaver tail has always been one of my favorite real trains.

Unfortunately  the motor was burned out, so it's getting a can motor and a new tether. Hope to have it running in a few days. can't wait!

I just received my latest project....