After years of procrastinating I finally got around to upgrade my 20 year old K-Line Hudson thanks to a few rare rainy days here.
It got a new larger motor, yet to be tested for tractive effort plus 4 chuffs and fan smoke.
Four chuffs achieved by replacing the two lobe cam with a 4 lobe, my preferred method when possible.
And the result.
Pete
Norton has me thinking that my K-Line Hudson should be upgraded like this.....and not sitting on a shelf in my office, not having run in probably ten years or so.
It's too good looking of a model for that fate, me thinks.
@Berkshire President posted:Norton has me thinking that my K-Line Hudson should be upgraded like this.....and not sitting on a shelf in my office, not having run in probably ten years or so.
It's too good looking of a model for that fate, me thinks.
Mine is in the waiting line to get upgraded with Pat aka Harmon Yards along with the Lionel Vandy tender version.
@SIRT posted:Finished...
Really fast work Steve .
Usually being fast doesn't compute with the quality of the work done................................you don't fit that model sir. Great job as usual . 
@SIRT posted:Finished...
Outstanding! Great looking cars and wonderful weathering! Have you made any videos detailing your weathering process? Would love to get more information on your procedure and materials (washes, etc.) that you use. Thanks!
Cheers, Dave
Started a project to convert the K-Line speeder to command control, for this one I am going to try to stuff sound into it as well. I tried to make the cavity large enough to fit the ERR Mini Commander II in as well as the ERR RailSounds Commander. I'll be using the gas powered doodlebug sound set, it seems the most appropriate for a small track speeder.
Here's the complement of boards and the speaker that will be used.
From all appearances, it seems I can fit them in. It will be a tight fit, but I can interleave the components and generous use of Kapton tape for insulation will assist in that effort. I may end up removing some connectors and hard wiring to the PCB pads, yet to be determined. The speaker will be mounted to the inside of the cab with some sound holes before I glue the last panel in.
I also trimmed all the excess leads off both boards to minimize their height as much as possible.
Since the seats were too large and an integral part of the frame, they were chopped off and will be replaced with seats and suitable O-scale sized figures to drive the speeder.
My thinking is to paint it yellow for M.O.W. as that fits in with any road name.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Started a project to convert the K-Line speeder to command control, for this one I am going to try to stuff sound into it as well. I tried to make the cavity large enough to fit the ERR Mini Commander II in as well as the ERR RailSounds Commander. I'll be using the gas powered doodlebug sound set, it seems the most appropriate for a small track speeder.
Here's the complement of boards and the speaker that will be used.
From all appearances, it seems I can fit them in. It will be a tight fit, but I can interleave the components and generous use of Kapton tape for insulation will assist in that effort. I may end up removing some connectors and hard wiring to the PCB pads, yet to be determined. The speaker will be mounted to the inside of the cab with some sound holes before I glue the last panel in.
I also trimmed all the excess leads off both boards to minimize their height as much as possible.
Since the seats were too large and an integral part of the frame, they were chopped off and will be replaced with seats and suitable O-scale sized figures to drive the speeder.
My thinking is to paint it yellow for M.O.W. as that fits in with any road name.
WOW John. That's tight. Keep us posted.
Bob
@ToledoEd posted:After finishing replacing the main smoke motor in my VL Hudson 700E, I've turned to the last of my collection needing attention. The Acela set. I'm starting with the non-powered engine #2029. Pantograph motor does not run. Either it has settled on a 'dead spot' Gunrunner John identified, or I need to replace it. Fortunately I have a motor and motherboard for that unit.
I just finished 'fixing' this unit. I replaced a Pantograph motor and the Panto PCB Board. When I opened up the shell, I noticed one of the motors was missing a screw...see Pic 1. I tested both motors and they ran fine. So, I suspected it was the PCB. So, I just replaced both units and, as you'll see in the video below, it fixed the problem. However, since that motor is missing a screw, and as you can see in Pic 2, it secures that thing which holds the mechanism which raises and lowers the Panto... I'm going to see if that was the problem after all The mechanism stops because that piece that keeps the rod stable and straight bends. So, when I get the right screw, I'm going to reassemble all the old parts and test whether that missing screw has the cause of the problems.
Also, as I looked back at threads regarding the Pantos, I saw some confusion about prototypical Pantograph position. The video answers that question as well.
Pic 1 missing screw
Screw goes here to secure the device holding the rod secure
A fellow club member brought me another MTH subway set to convert to LED strip lights. The conversion was completed this evening for this six car set.
This is some raw video I shot of this interesting set BEFORE the conversion. Apparently, the backstory is that MTH asked for an MTA license to produce this graffiti set and MTA refused because it objected to the graffiti theme; hence, the absence of the MTA logo on these cars. Whatever, it's a colorful set.
@RSJB18 posted:WOW John. That's tight. Keep us posted.
Bob
Got the basics wired and ran my first test. No lights as they get added after the shell gets painted, but the sound was better than I thought from the tiny speaker.
Working on my Menard's Autoracks, they have some wobble from the factory:
Each car also had at least one if not both couplers that would not stay closed, so I went to the MTH parts website and bought 8 diecast trucks. I figured this won't only help with the wobble but would add some weight to the bottom of the cars.
So the first thing to do is separate the chassis from the car to remove the trucks.
There are 4 screws at each end and 2 screws in the center spine:
Then they separate:
To remove the trucks you have to drill out the rivet:
Then since the screws I have won't fit inside the post it had to go!
Since I was making a tighter fit of the trucks to the chassis I installed a grommet in the chassis and then installed the new trucks with the 3mm screws I had.
The ride height is the same as the factory trucks, this means it will still go around 027 curves:
Test run was perfect! No couplers opened and the wobble has all but been eliminated!
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Got the basics wired and ran my first test. No lights as they get added after the shell gets painted, but the sound was better than I thought from the tiny speaker.
That's awesome John. Gives me hope that I could squeeze everything into a K-line Plymouth. Have you every tried?
Bob
Purchased a Lionel TUG-OF-WAR 6-82107 as not working. Usually with these type of units I've found that the issue is with the grease hardening and preventing the mechanism from moving. When I removed the back, I was surprised to see a broken gear. A search for replacement parts turned up nothing that was available. So, I purchased a bag of assorted gears from Amazon for $5.00. I found the correct size, bored out the hole with a drill bit to fit the shaft and I was in business.
@RSJB18 posted:That's awesome John. Gives me hope that I could squeeze everything into a K-line Plymouth. Have you every tried?
Bob
The K-Line Plymouth is on my "to-do" list. I figure I'd have to replace the huge smoke unit with one of the small MTH units, either the HO one or the O-scale whistle smoke model. Then I might have room for the Mini-Commander 2 in the front hood and the sound board in the back. I've fixed several Plymouth engines, so I do kinda' know my way around them.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:The K-Line Plymouth is on my "to-do" list. I figure I'd have to replace the huge smoke unit with one of the small MTH units, either the HO one or the O-scale whistle smoke model. Then I might have room for the Mini-Commander 2 in the front hood and the sound board in the back. I've fixed several Plymouth engines, so I do kinda' know my way around them.
Smoke in a diesel is not a must have for me. I'd take it out if necessary. The stock smoke unit in the Plymouth is a good one though.
I've had the front hood off a couple of mine ( I only have 6) 
The K-line boards are squeezed in as-is.
My grand plan is to make this from one.
Some rainy weather provided some motivation to return to the bench. Completed construction of two hopper cars. This involved soldering up and placing some activation levers. Two more to go before the four get washed and primed.
Heading up north today to rail fan with three of my 3-rail buddies. We will visit the Lake Superior RR Museum in Duluth and the Wisconsin Great Northern RR Museum in Trego, Wisconsin. Trego is the current home of the Mark Twain Zephyr. Will check out the Zephyr rebuild progress and also enjoy a couple train rides and a dinner train experience during the next few days.
Cheers to all,
Dave
Had to repair the new to me weaver GP38-2 Magma loco. The bottom sprocket on the chain tower was cracked, once I replaced that turning it by hand revealed there was a bind in the axle transmission. Replaced the geared axle and now it runs smooth!. I'm happy I had left over parts from when I rebuilt my weaver RS.
A couple of C-Liners being bashed into shape.
This finally left the workbench. Started out as a Lionel NYC caboose. You can pick these up fairly reasonable. I wanted a Rutland caboose with 4 windows. Cutting the extra windows was tedious. I used Scale City windows which are fairly close but not a lot of room for error. This particular early caboose had a higher cupola. I used one from an Ambroid kit. It has the right look. Just has 3 side windows rather than prototypes 2. It was a metal casting that had pretty much the right contour. I JB Welded 2 studs to it and used a basswood wood sheet painted black to hide the lack of an interior which was snugged down with a couple of nuts. The NYC and Rutland had 4 boards for the roofwalk. I’m guessing Lionel got it right on their pre war version as Williams brass reproduction features 4. The molded in boards don’t sit very high of the roof. I split some old Weaver walks and glued them in place. The other tedious project was forming new handrails from some phosphor bronze wire. New brake wheels were added.
What got me started on this project was some 3D printed trucks on eBay that looked to be correct for this early version. Archbars with a leaf spring. Well I got the trucks to work. They appear to be on steroids as far as wheelbase and width. I used Atlas pickup rollers with a slight mod to get them to sit higher. Seeing the trucks are plastic. I needed a ground wiper. I was able to tweak the stock Lionel one to fit after drilling to holes to line up with the Atlas mount. I used Tomar LED Adlake lamps. The finish on the trucks is a little crude. I know nothing about 3D printing but they seemed well made for the price. From normal viewing distance none of this is noticeable.
Decals are from Tichy Train Group. I don’t know if I’d do another one. But it’s nice to have a different version on the caboose track.
@Dave_C posted:This finally left the workbench. Started out as a Lionel NYC caboose. You can pick these up fairly reasonable. I wanted a Rutland caboose with 4 windows. Cutting the extra windows was tedious. I used Scale City windows which are fairly close but not a lot of room for error. This particular early caboose had a higher cupola. I used one from an Ambroid kit. It has the right look. Just has 3 side windows rather than prototypes 2. It was a metal casting that had pretty much the right contour. I JB Welded 2 studs to it and used a basswood wood sheet painted black to hide the lack of an interior which was snugged down with a couple of nuts. The NYC and Rutland had 4 boards for the roofwalk. I’m guessing Lionel got it right on their pre war version as Williams brass reproduction features 4. The molded in boards don’t sit very high of the roof. I split some old Weaver walks and glued them in place. The other tedious project was forming new handrails from some phosphor bronze wire. New brake wheels were added.
What got me started on this project was some 3D printed trucks on eBay that looked to be correct for this early version. Archbars with a leaf spring. Well I got the trucks to work. They appear to be on steroids as far as wheelbase and width. I used Atlas pickup rollers with a slight mod to get them to sit higher. Seeing the trucks are plastic. I needed a ground wiper. I was able to tweak the stock Lionel one to fit after drilling to holes to line up with the Atlas mount. I used Tomar LED Adlake lamps. The finish on the trucks is a little crude. I know nothing about 3D printing but they seemed well made for the price. From normal viewing distance none of this is noticeable.
Decals are from Tichy Train Group. I don’t know if I’d do another one. But it’s nice to have a different version on the caboose track.
Dave, ….when I grow up, I can only hope to poses your skills,…..great work buddy!!
Pat
"when I grow up, I can only hope to poses your skills" says the man whose Hudson upgrades are akin to how Ferrari builds automobiles.
@coach joe posted:"when I grow up, I can only hope to poses your skills" says the man whose Hudson upgrades are akin to how Ferrari builds automobiles.
That is very true coach. Pat's got a lot of Hudson's, one day I hope to at least have half of the Hudson's he has. That is a lot of Hudson's. Where's my rainy day fund, lol.
I got a Lionel 18206 Santa Fe Dash 8 40B on auction. It wasn't in as good of shape as stated, but not bad. I was able to get it running well with a little electronic cleaner. The issue I had is with the poor cab/number board/headlight lighting. This was due to where the flashing bulb on top was positioned. Lionel had to mask around it so as to not have flashing light leaking into the cab, but by doing so they greatly diminished the light output from the single incandescent bulb which was right behind it.
I am in the process of putting two 5mm cool white LEDs for the headlights, and two 3mm warm white frosted LEDs to light up the number boards, and as a side benefit they provide plenty of light for the cab. I'm removing the incandescent bulb totally. I'll also add a bulkhead where the frame for the light holder ends so when looking through the front windows you do not see all way to the back. The bulkhead will be painted black and I pasted on some pictures of valves, control panels, and engine control looking stuff.
The picture below is where I'm at. The blue tape was added as more cover for the flashing light since it still bled through the black tape (underneath). The factory white incandescent bulb is behind it. Also, at the top of the frame I added an engineer to that (left) side so the guy at the bottom of the pic (right side) doesn't get lonely. I'll post an 'after' picture in a few days.
@texgeekboy looking forward to the finished product. I have 2 Atlas diesels I am going to do the same to. Thanks in advance for the details.
A few weeks ago I received a static model of a H0 Crocodile. The plan was to display it sticking out of my Marklin roundhouse. Needless to say it did not arrive from France intact . Ends up it has a cast frame with a lot of zinc pest. I glued most of the chunks together. The major issues will be hidden inside the roundhouse.
Steve
Well, it took 10 days but 'Later' finally arrived today! The American Standard kit built 70-ton Airslide covered hopper "B" end has been repaired from its mishap and more details have been added. The car is now complete, from the top of the running board to the bottom of the side sills.
Remaining to be done are uncoupling rods and car steps. The plastic originals are very fragile plastic and are an easily broken part. So, I will be making them in brass.
The prototype design has the uncoupling rod bracket attached to the car step, so it's even more important that they be strong. Underneath the car has one more challenge. Plumbing for the air feed at the bottoms of the hoppers will require .035" or so dia. piping wire, 8 elbows, 4 anchor braces, 2 unions and 2 air connection valves. I shall see what can be done with what is already at hand. Then, paint!
S. Islander
I finished my LED project on my Dash8-40B. The first picture at the bottom shows the inside work before I zipped it up. Note the green shrink tubing on the two sides. The ends are 3 mm warm white LEDs. They do a good job of lighting up the number boards (they're right behind them), and I didn't mask off the light going inside since it was the light need for the cab interior. Note that I cut a strip of 3m double sided heavy mounting tape to fit inside the pillar. I pressed the shrink wrap tubing against that tape and it seems to be holding well. You can barely see it from the outside. Now note the orange arrow. It is pointing to two 5 mm cool white LEDs placed side by side, and the shrink tubing is keeping them close together, right behind the headlight lenses, and they look great. I did mask the light from these bulbs going into the cabin because it would have been too much. Again I used double sided 3m tape cut to fit the pillar and hold the shrink tubing. If I had to do it again, I would use 3 mm cool whit bulbs, which would make the end of the shrink tubing behind the headlights smaller. You can see this wire a little bit from the outside, but oh well. I did not glue any of the bulbs in place. I hope the 3m tape will keep them from moving.
Update: The partially exposed wire for the headlights is too annoying. Since I didn't glue them to the lens, and the wiring now is not bad to deal with, I will be replacing them with two 3 mm, although I don't know if I have any cool whites in my supply. If not, it might be a few days. I'll update the pic then.
Note the little person with one leg hanging. I glued this engineer figure to the side since there was nothing there. I cut off his right leg so as to not potentially interfere with the motor movement.
The blue tape is on top of the factory black tape to mask off the flashing light from the inside. The strange looking thing on the far left of the pic is a bulkhead I made so as to not be able to see the entire inside from the front of the engine. I painted it black and pasted on some pictures of equipment of what might be inside a diesel. I think it looks way better than what I got from the factory
I removed the incandescent bulb from the front, and used the power going into that to drive my 4 LEDs (wired in parallel). I still kept the grain of wheat bulb for the flashing bulb on top, and didn't replace the light bulb in the back. I did doctor the bulb holder a bit to remove some stuff blocking the light output.
I attached short videos showing the outside of the front cabin close up, and one of it coming down the track.
Another PRR to CNW passenger car done, this time a sleeper. I started on the baggage car, after that I'll do the obs car, then the consist will be done.
Had a club locomotive need some TLC traction tires were shot and just time for smoke unit maintenance plus a full clean and lube. I don’t know if was completely necessary but I like to remove as much old grease and oil as possible and go back with fresh. Plus of course new smoke unit batting.
FlyerChief Berk
PS excuse the other mess on the workbench 😅
Seldom attempted...never duplicated (in real life and in O gauge):
This NW2 came out of the Childress, TX shops in red/gray. It is my understanding that Management said, "don't do this again". So, this was the only switcher ever painted this way. This is a RailKing model. I plan to pair it with a powered blackbird SW1200 according to FW&D practice.
I must have an "illness" because this will be my fifth GP7 to be repainted for Frisco. This time it is an Atlas dummy unit as opposed to the previous four Lionel Legacy Geeps:
Slowly putting together a Frisco Meteor by re-lettering Lionel TS cars. Notice the difference between the aluminum cars as opposed to the plastic cars which appear to be completely "shadow-lined...I will have to cut out and apply letter and number boards for those. One car is lettered for PRR. The Meteor had thru sleepers from PRR, B&O, Boston and Albany, and maybe a few more:
Here is another observation car for my Fort Worth & Denver Zephyr (there's that illness again). The two observation cars were similar in appearance with the exception of one having a neon tail sign, and the other having a more typical drumhead. K4 decals makes lettering for the TZ including a translucent decal simulating the neon tail sign:
Finally, a wonderful 85' baggage/mail car for the TZ. This is an Empire State Express car to be re-lettered:
P.S. I truly like my new Badger 260 soda blaster...it is a fantastic timesaver.
Purchased two more Lionel woodsided boxcars to letter for Quanah, Acme & Pacific Rwy. (my past employer). I have previously done 3 already using K4 decals. The next two will get Protocraft decals...I am still pleasantly surprised that two different companies would make decals for our "little giant" of a railroad:
@gunrunnerjohn posted:The K-Line Plymouth is on my "to-do" list. I figure I'd have to replace the huge smoke unit with one of the small MTH units, either the HO one or the O-scale whistle smoke model. Then I might have room for the Mini-Commander 2 in the front hood and the sound board in the back. I've fixed several Plymouth engines, so I do kinda' know my way around them.
I'd be very interested to see your treatment of a K-line Plymouth. Here's mine.
ADDING SOME VERIETY TO YOUR TRAILER TRAIN.
Modifying an MTH flat to accommodate a Lionel PUP Trailer. This allows both types of your favorite trailers to run together in any combination!
This configuration will allow one MTH & one Lionel (by size) by just moving and adding some wheel chocks. Some existing holes can be covered with Mylar, and new ones can be drilled. One deck fitting needs to be shortened to clear the Lionel stanchion wheels. MTH Junker flats are cheap and can be stripped for spare parts. I also added the newer style R.B. trucks with hidden un-couplers and air hoses. Spray rust primer & flat black, quickly give it a weathered - finished look.
Back in early July I posted to this thread an old Walthers kit build-in-process...
It was ready for the paint shop. However, one of the things that intrigued me...besides the whimsical nature of this MOW creation...was the box label showing ATSF lettering of the car. I wondered that this, too, was whimsical fantasy. I sent out some inquiries seeking verification, but got zippo responses.
Ergo, we pressed onward, fearlessly...
Pardon those bodacious dummy couplers. Since this MOW beast will probably just sit on a sidetrack with its kindred creations, these 'Lobstah Claw-compatibles' are sufficient to the cause. Archbar trucks are Athearn, but with IM metal O2R wheelsets in place of the plastic-wheeled O3R axles...which work just fine on Ross/Gargrave rails...or sitting on a sidetrack!
No, probably not prototypical. I don't care. It was funky fun.
Next up?...modifying an ATSF Ambroid Caboose kit to represent a different version of their early waycars. The workbench IS my current 'man cave'!!
KD
KD that looks very impressive; great job. That will look nice on a siding waiting for an assignment. Are you going to weather your creation?
Jay
@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:KD that looks very impressive; great job. Are you going to weather your creation?
Jay
Thanks, Jay.
Re weathering...Ouch. I tried. But not to the extent many of the pro's in the hobby might have.
Maybe changes in the photography/lighting could've done more to show my intent. It's subtle, I'll admit. I tell myself 'I'll try to do better next time.' This is the sort of compromise that earned me the knickname, Lucas Gudinov, by a former employee at the LHS. I can only fuss for so long on things that are yet mysteries to me. Then..."Looks good enough!" 
Time to move on.
It is what it is.
@FrankRazz posted:I need to remove the car numbers from Lionel's latest LIRR passenger cars. Any suggestions on the best way without damage to the car color?
I have used Scalecoate II Wash Away with some success. Using a Q-tip with solution you might be able to remove the number without damaging the gray finish. Need to be careful and take your time, do not to let the solution linger and damage the gray base coat. I have also been able to remove markings on MTH die cast metal items using Acetone without cutting into the base color. It is tricky, but if you take your time and do not let the solution set too long, it can be done. Are you interested in changing numbers or just removing the entire number? Good Luck!
Cheers, Dave
@dkdkrd posted:No, probably not prototypical. I don't care. It was funky fun.
KD
Hey, you're riding 3-rails! You are forgiven!
Cheers, Dave
PS: Great project!!!
@darlander posted:I have used Scalecoate II Wash Away with some success. Using a Q-tip with solution you might be able to remove the number without damaging the gray finish. Need to be careful and take your time, do not to let the solution linger and damage the gray base coat. I have also been able to remove markings on MTH die cast metal items using Acetone without cutting into the base color. It is tricky, but if you take your time and do not let the solution set too long, it can be done. Are you interested in changing numbers or just removing the entire number? Good Luck!
Cheers, Dave
I want to remove the numbers and replace them with the below decals. The "Ride the....Travel easy" goes above the windows. I have the MYH original 5 car set, see below, I just want to add four more cars.
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