Where to stay when riding the Cumbres & Toltec and Durango & Silverton

Neal: Can't help on the Chama/Antonito trip, but for Durango, we've stayed twice at the now DoubleTree hotel (Red Lion Inn on first trip in 2006...). It is a nice hotel and is located just a block from the D&S station for boarding for the trip to Silverton.

It also has a good restaurant.

The Doubletree is a nice place and close.  We've been there once.  The other time we stayed at Far View Lodge up in Mesa Verde - quite a drive, but what a fantastic view.  One of the most memorable places we've ever stayed.

For the C&T, you will need  to stay in Alamosa.  You can take a train to Antonito 

from Alamosa.  While you are in Alamosa, you need to Ride the Rio Grande  Scenic

road from Alamosa over LaVeta Pass. It is a fantastic ride. 

We stayed at the Gandy Dancer Bed and Breakfast in Chama about five years ago.  It is a short walk to the Cumbres and Toltec.   We had a delightful time.

Here is a website:    http://www.bedbreakfasthome.co...ncerbb/?from=listing

   The General Palmer. The Strater.  I have stayed at both. They are original Hotels and will give you a feel of life in Durango 100 years ago. First choice Strater, General Palmer second choice. General Palmer has a rear porch that overlooks the D&S station area.

   Be sure to ride the Alamosa first class car, you will get the full narrow gauge experience.

For the Cumbres and Toltec, stay in a Chama.

Scrappy

In Chama a great bed and breakfast is The Parlor Car, a decent motel Is The Branding Iron. The train ride I recommend is Chama to Osier and back. The train is doubleheaded up to Cumbres Pass where they cut off the helper. I don't recommend riding to Antonito, apart from one nice high bridge therebis nothing to see.

For the Durango and Silverton get a reserved seat on the right side in an open car. The coaches severely limit your ability to see the scenery. Also make sure you take the bus back to Durango. One way is 4 hours and eight hours is too much even for a rail nut like me!

We stayed at the Chama Trails Inn. Mom and Pop place that was clean and quiet and walking distance to a few restaurants.

Pete

First time I rode the Durango and Silverton I did the one day round trip, but you only get to spend a few hours in Silverton. By the time you eat lunch it seams as though you are getting back on the train. The second time I arranged round trip over two days, giving me a full afternoon, evening and morning to enjoy Silverton. Nice museum, fun shops, jeep ride to a few ghost towns through the mountains, horseback riding and more. I stayed in a great hotel/saloon built in 1902 called the Wyman hotel, awesome view and great breakfast. For the best view make sure you sit on the correct side of the train going and coming back, I believe the right side there and left side coming back, but confirm with ticket office. 

    For the Cumbres and Toltec I stayed in Chama, can't remember the name but it was recommended by the ticket office. Both train rides are fantastic and the scenery is completely different.

It's been a long time, but back in 1992 we rode the Durango-Silverton train, and we stayed in Silverton. The cool thing is that when the train arrived in Silverton the other passengers were around for short time but then they took off for the next adventure on their vacation. I stayed around the station.

There was an engine switching cars around the yard. I took a few pictures, but then I stopped and just listened and watched. I've been to a lot of museums, I've ridden lots of excursion and tourist trains, but this was the first time I'd ever felt transported to a different time. I've never regretted staying in Silverton.

Jeff C

Check the fire warnings...I have ridden the D&S several times, but have never gotten

on the C&T because of forest fire threats when I planned to be there.

We stayed at the Leland House which is centrally located and was used by movie stars as their hotel when they made Western movies,the rooms are named after movie stars,you can check the reviews at Trip Advisor.We liked the Hotel very much.

For the C&T MAKE reservations and confirm them.

We went there and got shut out.

Eliot

Neal:

We stayed at the Chama Trails Inn a couple years ago.  We enjoyed staying in Chama since that's where our train originated and we had plenty of time to wander around the facilities there before our departure.  We originally planned to ride the train half way to Antonito and then ride the return train after lunch, but changed our minds and arranged to stay on the train to Antonito and take the bus back.  We're really glad we stayed on the train as the most spectacular scenery is on that second half of the trip.

All of Chama is pretty rugged and rough and the Chama Trails Inn is no exception.  The folks were friendly and the room was clean, but not as nice as any of the chain hotels. If you do stay there, I recommend the rooms on the second floor (the penthouse?).  They are larger and appeared much nicer than all the other rooms.  There are only 2 rooms on the second floor.   None of the other places looked much nicer.  We ate a couple times at The High Country restaurant across the street from the Inn.  Friendly service and decent food - not fancy.

I can't help with the D&S, we saved that for another trip.

Sounds like a great trip, I hope you enjoy yourselves as much as we did.

Neal, I guess when asking a question like this its good to give an idea if you prefer 5 stars or if 3 stars OK.

If you prefer home cooking over chain restaurants let me suggest getting a copy of "Roadfood" by the Sterns. The places mentioned in the book were places they have eaten in vs the website and now App where you will find the opinions of other people.

The one place mentioned in the the book was the Durango Diner. I am willing to bet few if any on the forum have heard of it let alone sampled its menu. We had breakfast there and still remember it 10 years later. No, you won't find it in the Michelin Guide.

Pete

Thanks, Norton, for that recommendation.  I have never eaten there, and the last

time I was in Durango the little breakfast place up by the college was closed.

In Durango... If you are going to ride an old train, stay in an old hotel (But with modern conveniences).  This is where I believe the GENERAL PALMER Hotel wins over the Strater.  The bathrooms/showers in the General Palmer exceed those of the Strater.  Great location, walking distance to train, food, downtown shops.

If you have an extra day in Durango, visit the Mesa Verde National Park.  My wife wanted to do it and I half heartedly agreed.  It was a very interesting and educational visit.  I'm glad we did it.

Ron

We ride C&T often and stay in Alamosa, CO at the Best Western because our dog is welcome there.  We ride Antonito to Chama round trip.  The kennel is between Alamosa and Antonito.

I flew 737s in and out of Durango.  The airline put us up in the Strater.  We all loved it.  There are cheaper places to stay.  I agree that eight hours on that train is a long ride.

We always stayed at the Shamrock in Chama, and never went further than Osier.  The Shamrock was a bit funky, but was directly across the street from the depot.  I think it got renamed - not sure.

I like the Chama train  - the D&S has better equipment and scenery, but has a certain authoritarian tilt to it - at least it did when we were going yearly.

If you will ride the C&TSRR round trip I recommend doing it from Chama because you will get the double-headed train out of Chama.  If you ride from Antonito you will be single-headed to Chama and miss the action on the steep grades.  Understand that a single-day round trip means a bus return.

Thanks to all who posted on this.  Your answers were very helpful!

My friend, where ever you stay, you will have a wonderful time. Enjoy. Don

Neal

Just a short note

We spent 9 weeks in the area in our RV in 3013 and took the trip to Silverton. It was a great ride. We only did the one way and then took the Bus back. Due to time restraints.

But if you can seriously look at trying to get into the Alamosa Parlor Car. It was something else to add to the fantastic trip. You can see pictures of this car on their website. It is a beautiful car with outstanding viewing capabilities and private.

Alamosa Parlor Car - (21 Yrs +) ~ Built in 1881, the renowned Alamosa Parlor Car features table and chair lounge-style seating. An exclusive outdoor viewing platform is available to this car's 24 passengers. Parlor Car includes a full cash bar and private attendant.

Larry