ZW question...think It was worth it

Pulled the top off and found the outer/main controller rollers are bad - the rollers are prettymuch gone and the holder edge is "just" contacting the windings...secondary/inner rollers are nearly new{lack of use?} Odd thing is they are on the insulator when off but there is a small amount of play/slack between the handle and the arms - not bad really. Has the bakelite breaker.
Searching I found the low voltage output isn't that big a deal...still need to try the reverse circuits and the horn/whistle, except I don't have anything that has a horn or whistle...any way to check via voltage. I've got a voltmeter.

Always measure the voltage with a load on the outputs.  The voltage will probably be zero with the handles off.

Earl

Some early ZWs had a lot of play on the outer shafts where the rollers will not fully "park" on the bakelite part of the winding.  Sometimes the problem is in the handle/shaft mount (use a long 4-40 screw in the end of the handle to remove it).  Somtimes the core shifted in the aluminum supports so the roller won't park correctly and bending the tabs in the front and back can coax the core back into position.  If the rollers are parked on the bakelite and you are getting residual voltage, the baklite could be dirty with carbon or you could be measuring "noise" from the transformer (I use an analog meter).  If there is no current behind this voltage, it should not cycle the electronic e-unit in the Beep.

Assuming the core windings are in good shape you got a very good buy. If you know how to rehab it buy the parts:

new cord, "A" & "D" rollers, new binding posts as needed, 2 zener diodes to replace whistle/horn rectifier discs and 4 external circuit breakers[resettable auto type will work] or fuses for each output.

If you can't properly rehab it yourself try to find a nearby Lionel ZW repair person so you can deliver it and avoid the high shipping cost. 

Even if you have to invest another $75-100 for a competent repair service, you will have a good unit in top shape at a comparatively low cost ready to serve a long time. Do you know if it is the early 250 watt version or the later type R 275 watt unit?

Good luck.

-EIS/Jon, I used a digi voltmeter...no load. I'll try a lamp or something tomorrow while reading it.

-Dewey, Where's a good source for those parts? I can do it.

As far as what exact model 275w I have...it has the small lionel badge on top, and the black bakelite breaker...I'll measure the bulb voltage tomorrow to confirm if it's 18v or 6v bulbs, but I'm thinking this one is one of the mid 50's units...could be wrong.

Also need to find this 4-40 screw hole...didn't remember seeing it and I don't want to break the handles!

Great buy!  I just picked up my first one every thing is good except one roller, but I'm going to replace all the rollers and I need to convert it to the diode as the whistle rectifier is not working.  I took off the base plate a soaked it in Metal Rescue for a couple hours and it looks like new.  I just hooked it up tonight.  I'll keep watching for deals.  Miner was $99 plus $21 for shipping.

Burlington,

     That's a GREAT deal!  If you need work done by a professional, I recommend these guys:

http://lioneltransformer.com/

Top-notch work and PEACE OF MIND!

Jon 

You got a great deal! It seems like just yesterday that these were going for $300 or so. About 5 years ago I thought I stole mine for $225.

One nice thing about command control is that it really dropped the prices on conventional transformers

J White

To start, email tranz4mr@gmail.com He is an expert on pw ZWs and can guide you in the right direction on parts and technical information.

There are of course many sources for parts that will show up in posts.

Here's a place in Northern Illinois that does just transformer work and I heard he does great work.

http://www.lioneltransformers.com

I also think they attend the Dupage show every month and sell parts and cords.

franktrain

Wheaton?...that'd be too easy for me! I think the boy and I really need to drop in there one day soon{2nd sunday as I vaguely recall} and do some hunting!

Burlington Route

You should be replacing the old horn/whistle rectifier activation component with a zener stud-mounted diode anyway later, the unit can wait on checking out the horn unless you just want to keep the old disc system and the frustrating engine speed variation it exhibits when you activate the horn lever. 

Burlington Route,

   Heck you don't want that old thing, tell ya what I'll give you $75.00 for the old girl.

Man you stole that ZW around the Pittsburgh, Pa area, they still go for $195 even in poor shape.  Decent shape $225.00 and up, even at the small train shows.

PCRR/Dave

Anytime you can buy a ZW that's capable of being restored for $50, it's pretty hard to pass up.

An update today...my RMT package came...whoo hoo! New A-B-A pensy set up{were out of warbonnets...bummer!}, so I got to try the whistle/horn.

Interesting....D lever works the most consistant{8 out of 10 times applied} but when it does the train slows down...the A lever seldom works(2 out of 10 times applied} -there's no sound "but" the train speeds up. I can hear a click of sorts in the RMT Beef dummy unit and that's it.  Odd...maybe the lever contacts are dirty as well as the discs are suspect.

Never did try the directionals the other day...too stoked about having the ZW, so I tried them today and they work fine.

-So, this leaves me with a good internal cleaning{dust and stuff}, need two A/D rollers{B/C are near mint}, need two whistle/horn replacements and a plug end{cord is soft and flexible}. 

-Add the likely investment of the auto type of fuses or breakers..I'm guessing I don't want to tax the "main" breaker so installing individual units per each output is the way to go...do I do away with that completely for the separate units and do they mount inside or do I make a stand away board after the 4 outputs...anyone got any pics of how they did that and/or the disc to diode swap?