Rebuilding a Wrecked Alaska GP7 1804

The parts showed up the other day. Today a new soldering tool showed up.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...6#173456840773489466

I used it to start splicing  the new truck wires to the existing harness. I’m having a bit of trouble focusing so I could only get it partly done.

All the splicing is done. Still to be tested. I was test fitting the new truck on the broken side frame; for which a replacement is not available. The pilot should attach to the side frame with screws that go through the pilot and side frame and then into the motor frame. As shown in the pictures the side frame is missing the front end. After mounting the coupler to the pilot; I plan on shaping a piece of plastic that will be screwed to the pilot and motor frame and extend it to what’s left of the side frame. The tongue will be fastened to the side frame. I would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions on this.

Are you trying to extend the the sideframe so that in can be screwed into the truck or are you trying to attach the pilot to the sideframe?

@coach joe posted:

Are you trying to extend the the sideframe so that in can be screwed into the truck or are you trying to attach the pilot to the sideframe?

Both the side frame and the pilot are fastened with the same screws into the truck. I’m extending the side frame to give stability to the front end.

If you mount the pilot first would a piece of thicker sheet styrene glued to the sidefame then layed over the pilot and then screwed to the truck work?

@coach joe posted:

If you mount the pilot first would a piece of thicker sheet styrene glued to the sidefame then layed over the pilot and then screwed to the truck work?

That’s what I’m thinking; however all the screwing has to be done at the same time. Then the sheet glued and screwed to the side frame.

drop me a email.

Chuck

I tested my wiring today and both motors are running. Wahoo! I turned to the body and pulled all of the trim off. Apparently the conductor jumped before the crash. His seat is empty. I pieced the cab pieces together and fastened them with tape for a look see. I was thinking that I could close the hole on the left side of the hood with some simulated corrugated metal. (Like a store gate). I have a roll somewhere.  But now I see that the corner of the cab is gone as well. Not sure that this will ever look good  

Perhaps someone on OGR Forum has a shell they would donate to your project.

There are several GP7 shells on the bay right now, don’t know if they’ll fit your particular frame though.

I did a (Floor crash, rebuild) of an AtlasO SW9.  With some filing/sanding, utility knife trimming, and a piece of styrene I managed to re-assembly the unit.   Part of the project was new window inserts from Atlas, which allowed an acurate template for the cab rebuild. 

@texgeekboy posted:

There are several GP7 shells on the bay right now, don’t know if they’ll fit your particular frame though.

Thanks, yes I saw some but they were PW, I don’t think they would be a good fit.

@Mike CT posted:

I did a (Floor crash, rebuild) of an AtlasO SW9.  With some filing/sanding, utility knife trimming, and a piece of styrene I managed to re-assembly the unit.   Part of the project was new window inserts from Atlas, which allowed an acurate template for the cab rebuild.

Thanks, I have all the inserts. The corner post is what is challenging me.

@pennsyfan posted:

Thanks, I have all the inserts. The corner post is what is challenging me.

Auto body shops have a (spot putty, or green putty).  Apply and let harden, sand, (may be repeat), should be good for primer/paint. 

I’d bet a MTH geep shell would land with little mods, …..far less work than trying to resurrect the dead,……check out The Toy Exchange, he’s got oodles & oodles of MTH diesel shells, and a lot of geeps ….to be sure buying a shell would be cheaper & less aggravating than all that filling, gluing, sanding & painting,…..

Pat

Pat,

Thanks for the lead. I reached out to Perry. Here is his response:

@pennsyfan posted:

Pat,

Thanks for the lead. I reached out to Perry. Here is his response:

hi bob

the shells i am selling are mth shells and will not fit lionel

Make it fit,….they’re both scale ( MTH & Lionel ) …😉

Pat

Back to the broken side frame. All of the great engineering ideas can be filed away.
@Chuck Sartor came to the rescue. Chuck had a sideframe, which he provided for a very reasonable amount. Chuck also pointed out that I was missing the cup washer for the hook on the sideframe. Thanks again Chuck!

Next steps are to straighten the frame.
Paint the frame and trucks.

Reassemble the trucks and frame.

Repair the shell and prepare for paint.

Paint the shell.

Apply decals, which are on order from Christine.

Showing spring on hook without needed cup washer  

New sideframe

Source for decals.

The older Lionel  and Willimas GP shells have the holes in the ends for a screw that goes into a tab on the frame, newer Lionel GPs have internal bosses to accept screws that come up through the frame.  You could create bosses by gluing in some styrene square tube in the right places and just fill the holes in the nose.

@coach joe

Thanks for the input. I guess I could look around for a donor shell. I’ll give the LHS a call in the morning. Lol I was just thinking that I have a beat up SW that someone painted the shell with a brush. I haven’t seen one of them out on the rails; but maybe l could add to the roster.

Parts of a Red Caboose O scale GP9 shell might be available.

Andrew

Thanks Andrew,

What parts?

Here is a replacement cabin that would replace the entire damaged hood and cabin.

https://lineswestproducts.com/...3-door-nose-o-scale/

Andrew

Re: Lines West products.  The cab and hood is meant for an Atlas engine, no doubt it will fit a Lionel shell with more modifications.

I used one and had to make several "fixes" to the print including a final cure as it came to me still sticky.  Delivery can be an issue.

Do your research.

Pennsyfan, there are 2 Lionel post war GP9 shells currently listed on eBay for less than $10.  One with dynamic breaks, one without.  Mounting holes through the ends of the hoods.  these would need to be filled and you would need to create bosses for mounting screws as discussed above.

You could have a 3D scanned and printed body end produced near your location.

Andrew

@coach joe posted:

Pennsyfan, there are 2 Lionel post war GP9 shells currently listed on eBay for less than $10.  One with dynamic breaks, one without.  Mounting holes through the ends of the hoods.  these would need to be filled and you would need to create bosses for mounting screws as discussed above.

Thanks! They are on my watch list. They are out for bid. There seems to be a lot of interest.

@falconservice posted:

You could have a 3D scanned and printed body end produced near your location.

Andrew

Thanks, I’m not sure about the route.

Thanks to Calvin who made a shell available.
Yesterday I painted the shell, the frame and the truck side frames.
Although the can was marked satin and the top is dull black; it’s shiny. I’m going to get a Matt clear coat to overspray it. I’m thinking apply decals first. Is that correct?

Yeah, decal and then clear over the decals. Helps protect 'em.

When I took the tape off the frame, I found I had too much tape. A few spots didn’t get painted. I guess that’s better having paint where it doesn’t belong! I installed the new motor truck, frame, pilot, and coupler. I wired it back together matching colors carefully. There are two wires black and black white stripe that come off the pickup and axel body. They are causing a short. I separated them and connected them the opposite way, Still no good. I think that they have something to do with the speed sensor. The engine runs but is hardly controllable. When I apply power the sound comes up and the engine seems to be in neutral; then all of a sudden it takes off at great speed, even at a low voltage. Back to the drawing board. A schematic would sure be nice.

Nice job so far!  The way these locos are designed, they do run very fast, especially if  your transformer "starts" at 7 or 8 volts.  Try rewiring both of the can motors in series, instead of the factory parallel wiring.  Then each one will get half as many volts, so you'll have a wider usable throttle range.

@Ted S posted:

Nice job so far!  The way these locos are designed, they do run very fast, especially if  your transformer "starts" at 7 or 8 volts.  Try rewiring both of the can motors in series, instead of the factory parallel wiring.  Then each one will get half as many volts, so you'll have a wider usable throttle range.

Thanks Ted I was thinking that once I get the speed sensor straight; it would take care of that. Definitely a next step.