Best Epoxy for Metal Repairs

For the BEST & STRONGEST repair, there is nothing like J-B Weld, but be sure to let it cure for at least 12 hours. For fastest cosmetic repairs, I use J-B Kuik. 

JB Weld all the way. I put it on, then forget about the part for a day or two. Depending on what and where it is (cow catcher), I'll put another coat on it. I've repaired broken cow catchers, and purposely hit the block at the end of my test track, and it holds fine.

I use JB Weld and JB Kwik for most such repairs, amazing stuff.

JB Weld is my go to for metal repairs.  

' nuf said, J-B Weld

Interesting site that I saw in a OGR thread somewhere.  The name stuck in my head.

http://www.thistothat.com/

Definitely J-B Weld for all metal repairs

Hello guys and gals...........

JB weld is my favorite and I have use this epoxy on brass locomotive repairs where there is weak or poorly soldered on brass casting details (lost-wax-castings) and it is very strong bond.  I have tried on ABS plastics too, good results.

Tiffany

If you really want them to stay on you should drill holes and insert brass rods to "pin them in place. 2 pins per side and epoxy glue. I use devcon epoxy glue.

Bill,

 I am a big fan of JB Weld, too. I've used it to make metal-to-metal repairs for marker lights on my steam switchers that needed them. As Steamer/Dave suggested, I would let it sit a day or two. I prefer two days myself.

 Tom

BucksCo posted:

If you really want them to stay on you should drill holes and insert brass rods to "pin them in place. 2 pins per side and epoxy glue. I use devcon epoxy glue.

Getting the holes drilled with the precision sufficient for good alignment is not easy in a piece like this.  If you screw up the alignment even a small amount, you get a lousy result.

Given the rough nature of the material in the break, JB-Weld will be more than sufficient to bond these permanently, and the job will be very easy.  For this kind of repair, I'd also rough up the lower hidden side and have a small build-up of JB-Weld to strengthen the structure, though that is probably not necessary.

I'm curious if anyone has tried "5 second fix" or any other UV glues?

It looks like you could grind the old "wings" off and make a metal plate to replace them if you have to.

Why would you want to grind the old part off and put a plain metal plate?  He can put the original part on as good as new.  No reason to make this five minute repair any more difficult or ugly than it already is.

devcon 2 part.......

Another vote for JB Weld. The only thing I would add is a couple of brass plates around .020" thick over the whole support. It should still clear the engine frame when mounted. Redrill the holes for the sideframes after the adhesive has set. Butt joints are the weakest so any reinforcement will help a lot. File or sand off the paint before doing this.

Pete

joe krasko posted:

devcon 2 part.......

Yes, that product is pretty good. However, it doesn't hold a candle to J-B Weld!

I typically use JB-Weld, but other 2-part epoxy brands seem to be just as good. 

Don't know about ABS/epoxy combo, but I know from experience - and frustration of having to do it over with something else - that JB-Weld (and I assume other similar - probably identical - brands) does not like to stick to styrene. I attached some new, clean styrene (Evergreen) fixed large, flat parts (on a diesel pilot)  I used JB-Weld. Cured for 24 hours.

They peeled right off; the epoxy did not stick to the styrene.

Wound up using Walthers Goo - which was fine, no problem - but I don't use epoxy on styrene any more. A friend of mine later said that he had a similar experience.

Isnt that truck available as a replacement part from MTH?

If you have already tried super glue, then you will have to clean the super glue residue off somehow. Otherwise, the epoxy will attach to the super glue and break at the same spot. The super glue will fill the pores of the metal and keep the epoxy from bonding.

Many repairs have been made more difficult, or even impossible, by a miscalculation/misstep on the first try.

I use J B Weld epoxy glue for repair of metal but the best filled epoxy for metal repair is the more putty like old timer, Marine Tex.  Marine Tex epoxy is filled with non metal fumed silica or something similar.

Marine Tex has been used to repair aluminum boats for years and I repaired a 12 inch long by 1/2 inch under water gash in a boat in the early 1960s that lasted 20 years until I sold it.

Marine Tex has been used to repair cracks and holes in engine blocks, transmission and differential housings with success for years.  Lots of smart boat owners never leave shore with out a pint or so.

Marine Tex is more putty like and will stick to a vertical surface better and fill gaps better than J B.  It also is much harder and will mold parts and hold a cut thread better than J B.  I can easily cut and carve J B with a knife and Marine Tex must be filed. 

I recently repaired a die cast bearing seal cap or 60 year old 24 inch Delta jigsaw.  The cap had disintegrated and had missing pieces and I had to fill in the voids. 

Marine Tex can now be purchased at good boat dealers, and now even Walmart, Amazon, Ebay etc. but costs about twice as much as J B Weld.  Both epoxies and most glues will last longer after opened if one stores them in a refrigerator.

Another Epoxy Putty to consider is Devcon Plastic Steel 5 Minute Epoxy Putty.  I have used it and it is very similar to Marine Tex.  It is steel filled and good to 350 F.  The box gives instructions for machining with a lathe.  ITW Devcon makes epoxy putties filled with several other metals and ceramics.

Charlie