turned out great George!
Re: Buddy's Diner, pics of its progression from junk to finished are in the FAQ section of my website; www.Warrenvillerailroad.com
George S posted:
Looks great.
Steve
John, I think Buddy's will be a busy establishment on your layout! I can see the love you put into his place. I really like what you did with that OB car body, it's a nice tribute to you brother. I want to do something like that for mine as well. When you find a place for Buddy's on your layout, I'd like to see it!
Rusty
Thanks Rusty,
I only run Standard Gauge under my Christmas tree, her is a pic with the diner.
I also painted the passenger cars and matching engine from derelicts.
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Our 5 Rail layouts we take to shows are linear. A bit over 13’ long unless we steal more panels from someone not running. I have played with the idea of creating the option for an L shape. Got the panels and track cut. Need to sand the panels and add carpet. Whether we use it depends on the venue.
Steve
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I had not seen a AF 3007 Pennsylvania for sale the past two years until last week. I needed this one for my collection and she’s a beaut! I have a GN 3008, but mine is missing an original door and doesn’t have door handles. So, I’m upgrading.
I still need a NYC 3007 and my Illinois Central is a little rough.
George
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this af o beast,,,,will do a better vid later,,runs like a bad,,,mostly ,ha
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George S posted:I had not seen a AF 3007 Pennsylvania for sale the past two years until last week. I needed this one for my collection and she’s a beaut! I have a GN 3008, but mine is missing an original door and doesn’t have door handles. So, I’m upgrading.
I still need a NYC 3007 and my Illinois Central is a little rough.
George
George,
Those are nice. It took me over 10 years to upgrade my NYC 3007, but the wait was worth it. The NYC gondolas are quite common, but finding one that met my standards was difficult.
Not sure which one this was (guessing either Nickel Plate or Great Northern due to the green doors), but I am planning on customizing it at some point. The only thing that is original and untouched are the doors.
NWL
Jim O'C posted:
That is one of my cars. The double sided litho appears on only one half of the inside of the car. It is very interesting and I have never seen another lithographed car of any sort that features a similar reverse print.
As for the dates, these cars are generally attributed to the period between 1925 and 1927, as they first appeared in the 1925 catalog and last appeared in the 1927 catalog.
NWL
Nation Wide Lines posted:Jim O'C posted:That is one of my cars. The double sided litho appears on only one half of the inside of the car. It is very interesting and I have never seen another lithographed car of any sort that features a similar reverse print.
As for the dates, these cars are generally attributed to the period between 1925 and 1927, as they first appeared in the 1925 catalog and last appeared in the 1927 catalog.
NWL
I would guess that the tin failed the first pass through the lithography machine, so rather than waste it, they just flipped it over and used the other side. There are a lot of examples of this with Marx. These AF cars are relatively rare, so it would be naturally more unusual to see these manufacturing mistakes.
For me personally, I don't have the room, patience or money to collect every variation. I'm happy to get one example of each road name in the best condition I can. I'm late to the game though, and many of the best pieces are already in well healed collections. I just need to wait for them to down-size.
George
George S posted:Nation Wide Lines posted:Jim O'C posted:That is one of my cars. The double sided litho appears on only one half of the inside of the car. It is very interesting and I have never seen another lithographed car of any sort that features a similar reverse print.
As for the dates, these cars are generally attributed to the period between 1925 and 1927, as they first appeared in the 1925 catalog and last appeared in the 1927 catalog.
NWL
I would guess that the tin failed the first pass through the lithography machine, so rather than waste it, they just flipped it over and used the other side. There are a lot of examples of this with Marx. These AF cars are relatively rare, so it would be naturally more unusual to see these manufacturing mistakes.
For me personally, I don't have the room, patience or money to collect every variation. I'm happy to get one example of each road name in the best condition I can. I'm late to the game though, and many of the best pieces are already in well healed collections. I just need to wait for them to down-size.
George
Not exactly sure on the misprint. I can say that it is a negative image, to the image that is found on the outside of the car, in that all of the lettering is backward. Not sure how that would be done. It is almost as if the metal was laid on a wet surface and picked up the litho from that, but that does not make sense in my understanding how the item would have been printed.
I have seen a number of re-used Flyer litho pieces, but most often the pieces are re-used as floors of cars. Harder to find are lithographed items that are overpainted at the factory. I have a couple of engines in my collection that feature lithographed bodies that are then overpainted at the factory. These overpaints are evidenced by chips in the paint that reveal the lithograph.
Here is picture of a lithographed engine body that was overpainted.
Note the chips on the corner that show the brown lithograph underneath. Also the cracking paint evident in the window frame is due to the lithograph alligatoring underneath the paint, as opposed to paint cracking.
Here is another lithographed engine that is overpainted.
Note the red lithographed in the lower left side of the body. This is where the black paint has been scratched to reveal the red/maroon lithograph.
Not sure as to the reasons of these overpaints, as far as if there was something wrong with the litho or if they were simply excess production that was painted to create a special set for a specific retailer.
NWL
Nation Wide Lines posted:Jim O'C posted:That is one of my cars. The double sided litho appears on only one half of the inside of the car. It is very interesting and I have never seen another lithographed car of any sort that features a similar reverse print.
As for the dates, these cars are generally attributed to the period between 1925 and 1927, as they first appeared in the 1925 catalog and last appeared in the 1927 catalog.
NWL
so Flyer fixed errors with repaint and shipped them out the door, but British Marx repaints and creates a whole different collectible niche with prices commensurate. go figure.
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Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:
Awesome!
We need a video of it running!
Made and bought. Gong Bell Co. Fire Call box Light Pole
Sometime ago in the bottom of a junk box I got parts of a Gong Bell company Fire Pole. Once I found out what it was I watched Ebay and bought parts of a second one. I never did find enough parts to replace everything that was missing but I got enough to put together the two items pictured. The tall one originally used a battery to power the light. I rewired it so I can run it off my transformer. The top on both were cut from wood as I could not find original pieces without buying another complete one for about $75.00, The shorter one, which still stands about 8" tall is made from left over parts. I'll probably keep the shorter one since it goes well with Standard Gauge and see if I can sell the taller one.
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Jim O'C posted:Nation Wide Lines posted:Jim O'C posted:That is one of my cars. The double sided litho appears on only one half of the inside of the car. It is very interesting and I have never seen another lithographed car of any sort that features a similar reverse print.
As for the dates, these cars are generally attributed to the period between 1925 and 1927, as they first appeared in the 1925 catalog and last appeared in the 1927 catalog.
NWL
so Flyer fixed errors with repaint and shipped them out the door, but British Marx repaints and creates a whole different collectible niche with prices commensurate. go figure.
Saw some of these at York last year. The original Litho often shows through the over paint.
Steve
Pete in Kansas posted:Made and bought. Gong Bell Co. Fire Call box Light Pole
Sometime ago in the bottom of a junk box I got parts of a Gong Bell company Fire Pole. Once I found out what it was I watched Ebay and bought parts of a second one. I never did find enough parts to replace everything that was missing but I got enough to put together the two items pictured. The tall one originally used a battery to power the light. I rewired it so I can run it off my transformer. The top on both were cut from wood as I could not find original pieces without buying another complete one for about $75.00, The shorter one, which still stands about 8" tall is made from left over parts. I'll probably keep the shorter one since it goes well with Standard Gauge and see if I can sell the taller one.
picked up one of these a few years back but never did anything with it, does the bell inside the fire box still ring?
attention: PETE IN KANSAS...
sending you an email about fire alarm lamp post in a few minutes...
Howard...
The package arrived today, so to have some fun as Steve Eastman would with teasers, it has to pass the smell test first. It did!
NWL
The box made it ok!
NWL
The inner boxes look ok, but too much track! Had to get rid of some to make it the appropriate amount 10 straights and 8 curves.
NWL
OK, I am not as good at holding the suspense for long. Here is the set.
I will admit to swapping the engine for one that was in my collection, as the one that came with the set had a large dent in one side. However, I did keep the original headlight out of the engine, as it had a glass nipple at the top.
However, the engine I swapped into the set is of the same early 1922 vintage as the one that was in the set.
Sadly, the baggage car is slightly alligatored, but it is very clean otherwise, with few chips.
Coach 1 is very nice
Coach 2 is equally as nice.
The roofs have a couple of small dents, but the original paint on the roofs is the best I have seen.
The setbox is clearly marked as set 1306 and based on the couplers and motor, the set dates to early 1922.
NWL
Nation Wide Lines posted:OK, I am not as good at holding the suspense for long. Here is the set.
I will admit to swapping the engine for one that was in my collection, as the one that came with the set had a large dent in one side. However, I did keep the original headlight out of the engine, as it had a glass nipple at the top.
However, the engine I swapped into the set is of the same early 1922 vintage as the one that was in the set.
Sadly, the baggage car is slightly alligatored, but it is very clean otherwise, with few chips.
Coach 1 is very nice
Coach 2 is equally as nice.
The roofs have a couple of small dents, but the original paint on the roofs is the best I have seen.
The setbox is clearly marked as set 1306 and based on the couplers and motor, the set dates to early 1922.
NWL
Wow! Great set! I haven't seen this one including those couplers. That's really neat!
George
George S posted:Wow! Great set! I haven't seen this one including those couplers. That's really neat!
George
I believe those couplers are 1922 only. The male coupler is of a thinner gauge metal and smaller than the later (and more common) couplers.
NWL...cool set! I just got a nice partial of the set above...3 columbia cars and baggage. Pretty cool with all original wiring and a couple of those original bulbs. Paper flooring inserts intact as well. Baggage is alligatored nearly the same as yours....even have the car boxes, though they are not bricks as are yours...
Rob English posted:NWL...cool set! I just got a nice partial of the set above...3 columbia cars and baggage. Pretty cool with all original wiring and a couple of those original bulbs. Paper flooring inserts intact as well. Baggage is alligatored nearly the same as yours....even have the car boxes, though they are not bricks as are yours...
What are the paper floor inserts? Never heard of such a thing. Is it something that someone added?
Karl Bub "Flying Hamburger" sets in O gauge. I've had the 3-car clockwork version for a couple of years; I was happy to find the electric version recently, and even more pleased to get it running. It didn't like going forward, but runs OK in reverse.
The electric version is almost identical to the clockwork type except of course for the motor, and those nifty little headlights.
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Picked up another 1919/1920 Turnerville Trolley today. I think I might be cornering the market on these but the bridge is an upgrade to others I already have. The spring in the launch house looks good too but I will have to borrow some straight channel track and the return spring from one of the others to test it out.
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This arrived in the mail today. I was not quite expecting what it actually turned out to be, but have to say I was pleasantly surprised. The buyer posted these photos
So I am thinking the item consisted of a small and unusual catalog for a wholesaler and a foldout.
Turns out it is a special printed foldout for the wholesaler!
The funny thing is that my good friend, who would have really appreciated buying this, is on a cruise! I guess the old saying holds true "You Cruise, You Lose" LOL!
NWL
John Smatlak posted:Karl Bub "Flying Hamburger" sets in O gauge. I've had the 3-car clockwork version for a couple of years; I was happy to find the electric version recently, and even more pleased to get it running. It didn't like going forward, but runs OK in reverse.
The electric version is almost identical to the clockwork type except of course for the motor, and those nifty little headlights.
And here's a photo of the motor
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This fascinates me a little. Several years without a sale and a AF 3007 PA gondola sells to me. The next week another is listed on a Buy it Now sale for less. It seems I set the market. The one listed is not in as good of condition as mine, but the price is less than I paid. You will see this on both sides of the buying and selling market. There are some very fine pieces listed for sale at prices that are at the top of the market, but their condition bears the price. However, they go unsold. I'm still learning about collecting, and collecting is changing with online auctions. Yet, there is still a price you need to decide on every purchase depending on rarity and condition.
George
Yes George, you do....now you need to start thinking about the six different Morris Reefer sides (and the Nationwide version makes 7)
Supreme Canned Goods and Specialties
Supreme Hams and Bacon
Supreme Large Fancy Eggs
Supreme Marigold Oleomargarine
Supreme Full Cream Cheese
Supreme Fancy Creamery Butter
- see if you can get all of them in 3 cars. I wasn't able to do it in 3 but I did it in 4. I'm still looking for a nice Nationwide version.
George S posted:This fascinates me a little. Several years without a sale and a AF 3007 PA gondola sells to me. The next week another is listed on a Buy it Now sale for less. It seems I set the market. The one listed is not in as good of condition as mine, but the price is less than I paid. You will see this on both sides of the buying and selling market. There are some very fine pieces listed for sale at prices that are at the top of the market, but their condition bears the price. However, they go unsold. I'm still learning about collecting, and collecting is changing with online auctions. Yet, there is still a price you need to decide on every purchase depending on rarity and condition.
George
they made a 3009 sand dump car but only in 4-wheel, so I think you now have all the bases covered.
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Well- eat your hearts out gang - look what I found - for $13 delivered!!
I had no idea how big this tin really is - see the modern Steelers box car for scale. I guess that’s what happens you only see things against standard gauge trains. Also its really fun when my wife loves the look of a new acquisition!
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Jim O'C posted:George S posted:This fascinates me a little. Several years without a sale and a AF 3007 PA gondola sells to me. The next week another is listed on a Buy it Now sale for less. It seems I set the market. The one listed is not in as good of condition as mine, but the price is less than I paid. You will see this on both sides of the buying and selling market. There are some very fine pieces listed for sale at prices that are at the top of the market, but their condition bears the price. However, they go unsold. I'm still learning about collecting, and collecting is changing with online auctions. Yet, there is still a price you need to decide on every purchase depending on rarity and condition.
George
they made a 3009 sand dump car but only in 4-wheel, so I think you now have all the bases covered.
They made a 6.5 inch dump car as an 8 wheel car, it is numbered 3019.
NWL
Nation Wide Lines posted:Jim O'C posted:George S posted:This fascinates me a little. Several years without a sale and a AF 3007 PA gondola sells to me. The next week another is listed on a Buy it Now sale for less. It seems I set the market. The one listed is not in as good of condition as mine, but the price is less than I paid. You will see this on both sides of the buying and selling market. There are some very fine pieces listed for sale at prices that are at the top of the market, but their condition bears the price. However, they go unsold. I'm still learning about collecting, and collecting is changing with online auctions. Yet, there is still a price you need to decide on every purchase depending on rarity and condition.
George
they made a 3009 sand dump car but only in 4-wheel, so I think you now have all the bases covered.
They made a 6.5 inch dump car as an 8 wheel car, it is numbered 3019.
NWL
I think you guys are just trying to trick me with the odd American Flyer numbering schemes.
Given the 3000 series I have collected are 9 1/2" lithographed cars, I don't think either of the dump cars could be considered part of the series. The log car is a little unusual in this set as it is the only one that is not litho, but it has the same trucks and size and is generally considered part of that series of cars. There is also a derrick car numbered in the 3000's, but it is considered part of the 3200 series cars. I still want to upgrade some of my cars, but I am pretty happy that I have one of each in pretty good condition.
George
George S posted:Nation Wide Lines posted:Jim O'C posted:George S posted:This fascinates me a little. Several years without a sale and a AF 3007 PA gondola sells to me. The next week another is listed on a Buy it Now sale for less. It seems I set the market. The one listed is not in as good of condition as mine, but the price is less than I paid. You will see this on both sides of the buying and selling market. There are some very fine pieces listed for sale at prices that are at the top of the market, but their condition bears the price. However, they go unsold. I'm still learning about collecting, and collecting is changing with online auctions. Yet, there is still a price you need to decide on every purchase depending on rarity and condition.
George
they made a 3009 sand dump car but only in 4-wheel, so I think you now have all the bases covered.
They made a 6.5 inch dump car as an 8 wheel car, it is numbered 3019.
NWL
I think you guys are just trying to trick me with the odd American Flyer numbering schemes.
Given the 3000 series I have collected are 9 1/2" lithographed cars, I don't think either of the dump cars could be considered part of the series. The log car is a little unusual in this set as it is the only one that is not litho, but it has the same trucks and size and is generally considered part of that series of cars. There is also a derrick car numbered in the 3000's, but it is considered part of the 3200 series cars. I still want to upgrade some of my cars, but I am pretty happy that I have one of each in pretty good condition.
George
George,
Actually, the log car has a lithographed letterboard on it, so it fits in with the other lithographed cars. The only thing Flyer neglected to make in the 9 inch litho series is a 9-inch litho caboose.
Next up, you will have to start collecting some of the enameled 3200 series cars, such as the 3210 tank cars, which came in multiple colors.
NWL
Nation Wide Lines posted:George S posted:Nation Wide Lines posted:Jim O'C posted:George S posted:This fascinates me a little. Several years without a sale and a AF 3007 PA gondola sells to me. The next week another is listed on a Buy it Now sale for less. It seems I set the market. The one listed is not in as good of condition as mine, but the price is less than I paid. You will see this on both sides of the buying and selling market. There are some very fine pieces listed for sale at prices that are at the top of the market, but their condition bears the price. However, they go unsold. I'm still learning about collecting, and collecting is changing with online auctions. Yet, there is still a price you need to decide on every purchase depending on rarity and condition.
George
they made a 3009 sand dump car but only in 4-wheel, so I think you now have all the bases covered.
They made a 6.5 inch dump car as an 8 wheel car, it is numbered 3019.
NWL
I think you guys are just trying to trick me with the odd American Flyer numbering schemes.
Given the 3000 series I have collected are 9 1/2" lithographed cars, I don't think either of the dump cars could be considered part of the series. The log car is a little unusual in this set as it is the only one that is not litho, but it has the same trucks and size and is generally considered part of that series of cars. There is also a derrick car numbered in the 3000's, but it is considered part of the 3200 series cars. I still want to upgrade some of my cars, but I am pretty happy that I have one of each in pretty good condition.
George
George,
Actually, the log car has a lithographed letterboard on it, so it fits in with the other lithographed cars. The only thing Flyer neglected to make in the 9 inch litho series is a 9-inch litho caboose.
Next up, you will have to start collecting some of the enameled 3200 series cars, such as the 3210 tank cars, which came in multiple colors.
NWL
Yep, I have a few of those including some custom ones. I like the dark blue. I don’t think that is original paint, correct?
George
jhz563- What is it, and where did you get it? Very cool!
Kirk Lindvig
Standard Gauge Module Association
SGMA1 posted:jhz563- What is it, and where did you get it? Very cool!
Kirk Lindvig
Standard Gauge Module Association
It's a tin- like a cookie or candy tin, that's looks like Big Ben. It actually comes in 4 pieces and the clock works. I saw this piece on some other folks layouts, like Papa Eastman, and have been on the lookout for one for about 6 months. it was made for Walker's Chocolate out of London. I can post a few more pictures later tonight.
Thanks!
Yep, I have a few of those including some custom ones. I like the dark blue. I don’t think that is original paint, correct?
George
No, that is the original paint. They painted them dark blue in 1928 only.
NWL
SGMA1 posted:Thanks!
Here’s some more photos of the Big Ben tin.
The graphics/ lithography work for a item like this are exceptional in my opinion. The fact that it has a working clock - I hope it works, haven’t installed a new battery yet - is just amazing. (One face has a clock and the other three faces are a matching graphic. The close up is one of the static faces.)
EDIT - the clock works with a fresh battery
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Sidetrack has a greatly reduced price on the STD Gauge Bay Window caboose so I figured I should add one to my menagerie.
Steve
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Well I don’t know about cool but... I made a small Hornby MO type wagon as a test to see if I can make stuff before buying more tools. It’s still a bit rough as am still waiting for some files to arrive. Hopefully will look OK once finished and painted.
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Jamie Thompson posted:
Looks great, maybe do a how to on a new post. I m sure that a lot of folks would like to try and make one
Are the folded sides soldered together after he bend or are they just made tight.
Did you use a brake to do the bending or a vice?
Picked up a prewar O AF Hiawatha and rolling stock a bit rough but does run. Need to find a rear truck and have to decide if I want to repaint. Anyone know if they make repo decals for the Hiawatha?
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RonH posted:Jamie Thompson posted:Looks great, maybe do a how to on a new post. I m sure that a lot of folks would like to try and make one
Are the folded sides soldered together after he bend or are they just made tight.
Did you use a brake to do the bending or a vice?
Thanks RonH.
Great Suggestion I will start a new how to thread shortly.
At this stage I have only rudimentary tools so had to make do with bending them in a vice. The sides are all folded tight and no soldering.
I will post the plans I made aswell.
From the archives, a Flyer cabin car that was in decent shape excepting the roof, where 50% of the paint had flaked off...stripped the roof, repainted with some Krylon that approximated the faded paint:
End result:
I’m in the process of planning my track layout for a Lionel Standard and Prewar Tinplate O vintage table which will be 5x9. Below is what I have planned currently, 1 STD and 2 O loops. I do have STD and O switches, however that limited my “O” footprint. I thought about moving the O to a trestle loop or figure 8. I wasn’t planning on elaborate scenery, just structures, street lights, signal men and figures. Looking for any other suggestions or inspiration.
Thanks in advance.
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Rich Wiemann posted:I’m in the process of planning my track layout for a Lionel Standard and Prewar Tinplate O vintage table which will be 5x9. Below is what I have planned currently, 1 STD and 2 O loops. I do have STD and O switches, however that limited my “O” footprint. I thought about moving the O to a trestle loop or figure 8. I wasn’t planning on elaborate scenery, just structures, street lights, signal men and figures. Looking for any other suggestions or inspiration.
Thanks in advance.
I can’t see the other side of the Hellgate bridge, but you need to be careful with the approach or the engine swing and some cars will hit the side of the bridge especially with STD 42 curves. One full track section on each side might be enough, but one and a half is better. Crossovers are fun, but might not work with all tinplate engines.
George
Thanks George for your feedback. Yes there is a full straight on the other side of the bridge. I will keep the crossover concern you brought up in mind, since I have not used one in O gauge before.
Jamie Thompson posted:RonH posted:Jamie Thompson posted:Looks great, maybe do a how to on a new post. I m sure that a lot of folks would like to try and make one
Are the folded sides soldered together after he bend or are they just made tight.
Did you use a brake to do the bending or a vice?
Thanks RonH.
Great Suggestion I will start a new how to thread shortly.
At this stage I have only rudimentary tools so had to make do with bending them in a vice. The sides are all folded tight and no soldering.
I will post the plans I made aswell.
If you're interested in making tin cars...you may find this link of interest...go here...
http://littleglitterhouses.com/MakingTinTrainCars
Howard Lamey
Rich Wiemann posted:I’m in the process of planning my track layout for a Lionel Standard and Prewar Tinplate O vintage table which will be 5x9. Below is what I have planned currently, 1 STD and 2 O loops. I do have STD and O switches, however that limited my “O” footprint. I thought about moving the O to a trestle loop or figure 8. I wasn’t planning on elaborate scenery, just structures, street lights, signal men and figures. Looking for any other suggestions or inspiration.
Thanks in advance.
I suggest you create an elevated platform on which you run all your O gauge track. This will ensure your O gauge trains are not hidden behind the your Standard Gauge trains and help you to create a "forced perspective" on your layout for added realism.
I also suggest you add two switches to each side of the O gauge figure 8 and connect them with straight track. This will allow you to reverse the direction of your O gauge trains on the figure 8 creating more variety (fun) in your operations.
Bob Nelson
Bob thanks for your insights. I will definitely plan on adding the switches to the figure eight. I had thought about making an elevated trestle line but not a full platform...interesting. That would allow for adding STD switches and a side line. Feedback on if the platform should be open for line of sight to the back side? I was thinking of placing a Lionel 101/102 bridge and ramp there opposite the Hells gate. Or cover the gap as a mountain side with portals for the standard to cross over?
PD and Jamie, thanks for sharing your talents - I live projects like these.
Rich, makes me look forward to my annual standard gauge Christmas Tree special layout. Even though Warrenville is a large layout, their ain't nuttin' like running trains on the floor. Ya can't go wrong with a Hellsgate Bridge, wish I had one
Rich Wiemann posted:Bob thanks for your insights. I will definitely plan on adding the switches to the figure eight. I had thought about making an elevated trestle line but not a full platform...interesting. That would allow for adding STD switches and a side line. Feedback on if the platform should be open for line of sight to the back side? I was thinking of placing a Lionel 101/102 bridge and ramp there opposite the Hells gate. Or cover the gap as a mountain side with portals for the standard to cross over?
Rich,
For O gauge switches, I found Merkur to be the smoothest running for tinplate. Here's a discussion on them: https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...kur-trains-and-track
For STD gauge switches, Ross seems to be the winner. That is what the SGMA uses. I have seen them in operation at Train Fest and plan on using them on my upcoming layout.
George
‘Ski thanks for the encouragement....I enjoyed you warrenvillerailroad site, great layout and collection. Looking forward to this years Christmas display.
George thanks for the switch information.
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John Smatlak posted:JEP O gauge E-501 2-B-2 electric loco. Posed with my Marklin CS 666/13020 electric, and also a JEP steeplecab. Also included is a video of it running on Hollis Cotton's O gauge layout. I can't run it on my layout because it won't fit under the bridge due to the extra-height fixed pantographs.The E-501 features a very attractive lithographed body. From internet sources I can see it was also made in a plainer painted version, but I'm not sure of the time periods when these two versions were produced, perhaps someone out there knows?It has a manual reverse that is connected to a rod that extends out to a lever on each side. Perhaps this was intended to work with a trackside actuator of some kind? I notice that this feature does not appear to be on the painted version.Also the painted version has a pair of spring-loaded "button" power pickups instead of the sliding shoe found on this one.I'm also puzzling over the 3-position lever on the roof, which makes the headlight turn on, but then it doesn't run. Will have to open it up and look at the wiring.
John, you have got a very nice first model of the 2B2 JEP loco. All my comments will do for the 2B2 and the steeple cab as they are exactly from the same time period.
The first model of the 2B2 has a very specific coupling system which has been used during a short time 1932-33, and just after replaced with the classic JEP hook and produced in 1933-34 with the same pickup sliding shoe.
Just after in 1933-34 the litho model was replaced with an all steel painted body in a light green color, not Lionel peacock but not too far, and in 1935-45 the color changed to dark green. Those two models now used the spring loaded button power pick up and has only one of those. Models of the 2B2 with two pick ups are post war. In 1938 the SNCF emerged from the previous private company railways so the stamped PO on the side of the engines became SNCF. There is also different type of motors.... All those changes where the same for the steeple cab, and they where put out of production around 1941 and not reintroduced after the second world war. Only the 2B2 survived from 1946 to 1951.
Your steeple cab with the reversing lever in the back window of the cab is from 1933-34 and is the last litho model of the series, you can find it with the old black roof or the new white-cream one of the first painted models.
The rod which extends on each side is used to reverse the loco with a special tie which clip under the track. When you push the black button on the side the flat bar goes up and catch the rod on the side of the engine. I hope i am clear.... if you want one i can send one to you. Maybe more clear with the picture....
For the lights you have to use a 6 volts 0.5 amp bulb. The lights are wired in series with the motor. The lever has two positions, on and off.
If you want to know more there is a very good book on JEP but is in french, there is no English edition.
All my best wishes, Daniel
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FRENCHTRAINS posted:John Smatlak posted:JEP O gauge E-501 2-B-2 electric loco. Posed with my Marklin CS 666/13020 electric, and also a JEP steeplecab. Also included is a video of it running on Hollis Cotton's O gauge layout. I can't run it on my layout because it won't fit under the bridge due to the extra-height fixed pantographs.The E-501 features a very attractive lithographed body. From internet sources I can see it was also made in a plainer painted version, but I'm not sure of the time periods when these two versions were produced, perhaps someone out there knows?It has a manual reverse that is connected to a rod that extends out to a lever on each side. Perhaps this was intended to work with a trackside actuator of some kind? I notice that this feature does not appear to be on the painted version.Also the painted version has a pair of spring-loaded "button" power pickups instead of the sliding shoe found on this one.I'm also puzzling over the 3-position lever on the roof, which makes the headlight turn on, but then it doesn't run. Will have to open it up and look at the wiring.John, you have got a very nice first model of the 2B2 JEP loco. All my comments will do for the 2B2 and the steeple cab as they are exactly from the same time period.
The first model of the 2B2 has a very specific coupling system which has been used during a short time 1932-33, and just after replaced with the classic JEP hook and produced in 1933-34 with the same pickup sliding shoe.
Just after in 1933-34 the litho model was replaced with an all steel painted body in a light green color, not Lionel peacock but not too far, and in 1935-45 the color changed to dark green. Those two models now used the spring loaded button power pick up and has only one of those. Models of the 2B2 with two pick ups are post war. In 1938 the SNCF emerged from the previous private company railways so the stamped PO on the side of the engines became SNCF. There is also different type of motors.... All those changes where the same for the steeple cab, and they where put out of production around 1941 and not reintroduced after the second world war. Only the 2B2 survived from 1946 to 1951.
Your steeple cab with the reversing lever in the back window of the cab is from 1933-34 and is the last litho model of the series, you can find it with the old black roof or the new white-cream one of the first painted models.
The rod which extends on each side is used to reverse the loco with a special tie which clip under the track. When you push the black button on the side the flat bar goes up and catch the rod on the side of the engine. I hope i am clear.... if you want one i can send one to you. Maybe more clear with the picture....
For the lights you have to use a 6 volts 0.5 amp bulb. The lights are wired in series with the motor. The lever has two positions, on and off.
If you want to know more there is a very good book on JEP but is in french, there is no English edition.
All my best wishes, Daniel
Daniel- thanks as always for the detailed info!
Another recently imported French toy train in O gauge- a Louis Roussy / LR / LE Rapide SNCF BB electric. It has a cast aluminum body and one powered truck and one idler. The powered truck uses traction tires, and the side frames are simply attached to the axle ends. So far it's not a good runner; the traction tires seem a bit wide and tend to bind against the side frames. Some photos attached from cleaning it up and taking care of some broken wires inside. Additional info on when this was made would be welcome.
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John, Nice loco. I also love that Hornby signal cabin with lever control system.
John Smatlak posted:Another recently imported French toy train in O gauge- a Louis Roussy / LR / LE Rapide SNCF BB electric. It has a cast aluminum body and one powered truck and one idler. The powered truck uses traction tires, and the side frames are simply attached to the axle ends. So far it's not a good runner; the traction tires seem a bit wide and tend to bind against the side frames. Some photos attached from cleaning it up and taking care of some broken wires inside. Additional info on when this was made would be welcome
John, your french collection is on a very good way.
Le LR loco is a fine runner but on yours traction tires have been replaced, original ones don't extend outside the wheels and do not bind against the side frames. You could cut them easily I think and it will run fine. After maybe some cars to match with....
Here are some pictures of an original one, the loco has some differences with yours but the motor is basically the same.
Collecting and running trains from LR is sometime not easy as they suffer from zamack deterioration, traction tires problems may be solved as there is replacement ones in France, paint flacking is also common, and finally there is many motor variations plus AC and DC motors.
Those locos have been made from 1948 to 1954. There is two major models, the BB0401 is the one you have and a little more detailed one, the BB8105 illustrated under which has been made in the last production year only, 1955, and is less easy to find. I have each one and they are very nice running engines.
All my best wishes, Daniel
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The rarest Bing 9 1/2 "coach, „SR" Southern Railroad, was never in a catalog.
Found with slight damage
Model was cleaned and polished. The rust was removed. A missing door handle has been replaced the bogies re-attached and a buffer changed.
Marked with Bing
Arne
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FRENCHTRAINS posted:John Smatlak posted:Another recently imported French toy train in O gauge- a Louis Roussy / LR / LE Rapide SNCF BB electric. It has a cast aluminum body and one powered truck and one idler. The powered truck uses traction tires, and the side frames are simply attached to the axle ends. So far it's not a good runner; the traction tires seem a bit wide and tend to bind against the side frames. Some photos attached from cleaning it up and taking care of some broken wires inside. Additional info on when this was made would be welcome
John, your french collection is on a very good way.
Le LR loco is a fine runner but on yours traction tires have been replaced, original ones don't extend outside the wheels and do not bind against the side frames. You could cut them easily I think and it will run fine. After maybe some cars to match with....
Here are some pictures of an original one, the loco has some differences with yours but the motor is basically the same.
Collecting and running trains from LR is sometime not easy as they suffer from zamack deterioration, traction tires problems may be solved as there is replacement ones in France, paint flacking is also common, and finally there is many motor variations plus AC and DC motors.
Those locos have been made from 1948 to 1954. There is two major models, the BB0401 is the one you have and a little more detailed one, the BB8105 illustrated under which has been made in the last production year only, 1955, and is less easy to find. I have each one and they are very nice running engines.
All my best wishes, Daniel
Daniel- thanks for the info, interesting to see the differences between the versions. I will try to trim the traction tires and see how that works.
OK, I am not one to go crazy over track, but this is a unique item.
Closer view
So, this switch is broken, as the tie that the switch control is on is broken off, but this pair of parts is waiting to repair the switch.
You might wonder what is so special about this switch, well from what I can tell, the embossed "American Flyer 08" appears on c. 1914 switches only. I received the above switch parts with my 1914 setbox many years ago.
The later pre-1920 switches do not have the embossed lettering on the switches.
NWL
I have a weakness for Marx 999 loco's so today at the train show I was looking through a venders $2.00 box and found this 999. How could I pass up, a little oil and clean up and I have smooth running loco to add to my weakness.
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Welllll.... a few weeks ago I managed to find another addition to the dual marked KB/BW freight car line - this one a tank car.
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I picked up some MTH tinplate villas with plots. I don't think this neighborhood would be fun to live in. Too loud with the trains going through your front yard all the time and Big Ben chiming.
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John Smatlak posted:
John,
I suspect that the "little punch marks" you are wondering about are actually due to arcing of the electricity running through the track to the engine, when it is powered and moving. It appears that the center rail pick-up also has some arc marks on it.
I know that my early c. 1918 Flyer engines arc quite a bit when running, much more than later electric engines.
Here is a c. 1914 German made for American Flyer track bumper.
NWL
Jamie Thompson posted:RonH posted:Jamie Thompson posted:Looks great, maybe do a how to on a new post. I m sure that a lot of folks would like to try and make one
Are the folded sides soldered together after he bend or are they just made tight.
Did you use a brake to do the bending or a vice?
Thanks RonH.
Great Suggestion I will start a new how to thread shortly.
At this stage I have only rudimentary tools so had to make do with bending them in a vice. The sides are all folded tight and no soldering.
I will post the plans I made aswell.
The cheapie bending brake at Harbor Freight works pretty nicely on short bends like this (at least 2 of them anyway). a more sophisticated bending brake with segmented fingers works better, and can do all four bends, but a lot more money.
Jim
I'm in the process of working on some diorama pictures and it occurred to me I needed to increase my selection of super-detailed figures. Here's a sampling of some of my "new people." The figures started life as basic painted Arttista. I've added faces, changed the basic skin tone to highlight cheekbone structure and added a bit of diversity.
I washed the clothing with diluted dark gray, blue, and brown enamels (the diluted enamel flows into all of the depressions in the casting and highlights the wrinkles/seams/pockets/etc in the cast figure), added belts, belt loops, belt buckles, and, for the heavy set gentleman on the left, a pocket protector complete with pen.
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Robert,
They all came out very well. Maybe the engineer needs a little more soot, though?
Tom
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jhz563 posted:
As Brad Pitt once said... “What’s in the box?”
The answer is an early Christmas train..literally
The main point of this purchase was to continue my foolish quest of acquiring one of every mth made 2816 ever manufactured. A few of those are only available in sets, including this one.
The engine needs a little tlc, but overall is gorgeous. It does have some interesting idiosyncrasies. It is labeled as a 263e, but comes up programmed as a 260e. I only have a ps3 version for comparison, but this ps2 version has skinny traction tires that I wasn’t expecting at all.
It has a pretty neat set of sounds. In fact the jolly old elf in a red suit himself makes an audible appearance.
I haven’t checked out box car yet, and the caboose is very nice, although the wiring is a mess, which I knew before I purchased. It also came with the power supply and the tracks. Overall very happy with this purchase from a fellow forum member.
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jhz563 posted:jhz563 posted:
Oh Boy Oh boy Oh Boy....
As Brad Pitt once said... “What’s in the box?”
The answer is an early Christmas train..literally
The main point of this purchase was to continue my foolish quest of acquiring one of every mth made 2816 ever manufactured. A few of those are only available in sets, including this one.
The engine needs a little tlc, but overall is gorgeous. It does have some interesting idiosyncrasies. It is labeled as a 263e, but comes up programmed as a 260e. I only have a ps3 version for comparison, but this ps2 version has skinny traction tires that I wasn’t expecting at all.
It has a pretty neat set of sounds. In fact the jolly old elf in a red suit himself makes an audible appearance.
I haven’t checked out box car yet, and the caboose is very nice, although the wiring is a mess, which I knew before I purchased. It also came with the power supply and the tracks. Overall very happy with this purchase from a fellow forum member.
That’s an awesome set! It’s a 263e because it has the 12 wheel tender. The engine looks like my 260e, which is an awesome puller. Your engine sounds are cool.
George
I found these Standard gauge lights, O gauge taxi and S gauge bumpers at a yard sale today.
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Rich Wiemann posted:
Can you get wider radius track and eliminate the single straight sections at the ends? Everything will run and look better on a wider curve.
Roy I just finished the construction of the bench work and table top, which expanded to 7 x 10 which received its second coat of paint. I added an outside 072 loop to accommodate my Hiawatha set and stretched the size of the standard track. The inside O loop will be able to be reconfigured from a figure 8 to two independent circles or one larger loop.
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@Rich Wiemann looks good so far! Happy to see you're taking the time to plan- wish I would've done that/know what I know now with my current layout! Regardless, looks like it'll be very impressive when it's finished! I like the look with the expanded outer loop. Also, personally, I like the idea of having 2 independent circles on the inner loop since you're doing O-gauge there but I think that having even the 3 car passenger consist in your picture might make such a loop feel small-especially if those are 610 Pullmans. Depends on how big those o-gauge consists will be in terms of car size and consist length. I'm sure it'll look great when it's all said and done!
Robert S. Butler posted:
Very nice, @Robert S. Butler ! I, for some reason, like the dual marked KB/BW trains, ever since I bought one over the summer. Have always tried to keep my eye out for more. That said, again, nice find! Are you pursuing these types of cars?
Arne posted:
Wow @Arne , nice Bing score!!!! Awesome find, congrats. Beautiful coach as well, I must add- great work cleaning it up.
Haven't been posting much due mainly to work but with "the season" coming back along, here are some recent pick-ups:
1st up-Bing(540/10) American style station from the outside edge of the layout. Bit of a hodge podge in this area, CURRENTLY. Just waiting for some things to come together. Station looks the same on the other side, in prettynice shape IMO. Like it better than most of my pre-war American stations of this size.
Next, technically not tinplate, I guess, so don't throw stones- but it's Marx and I've always wanted at least something from their plastic E7's- even if it's just an unpowered B-unit!
Finally, bought this Kraus-Fandor freight wagon rather cheap. Couplers aren't original, there's a hole in the bottom as if someone tried to put a light inside.
Considering Kraus-Fandor was supposedly done producing by 1936, I don't understand why this freight wagon or others I have seen of a similar ilk have the " MADE IN GERMANYU.S. ZONE" message surrounding the Fandor "JKCO" logo. I did buy it despite seeing this, however. Anyone have any answers?
Also of note, body is noticeably taller and wider than 1910s-1930s 4 wheel Bing, Ives, Bub, Distler, Marx, some Lionel, etc... Even when it comes to some 8 wheel cars from those makers, still looks "odd"-even when accounting for a European look vs American Look. Below it sits between an Ives Gondola and a 1950s Marklin Baggage car, which, IMO, is the car which is looks best next to.
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StevefromPA posted:Finally, bought this Kraus-Fandor freight wagon rather cheap. Couplers aren't original, there's a hole in the bottom as if someone tried to put a light inside.
Considering Kraus-Fandor was supposedly done producing by 1936, I don't understand why this freight wagon or others I have seen of a similar ilk have the " MADE IN GERMANYU.S. ZONE" message surrounding the Fandor "JKCO" logo. I did buy it despite seeing this, however. Anyone have any answers?
Also of note, body is noticeably taller and wider than 1910s-1930s 4 wheel Bing, Ives, Bub, Distler, Marx, some Lionel, etc... Even when it comes to some 8 wheel cars from those makers, still looks "odd"-even when accounting for a European look vs American Look. Below it sits between an Ives Gondola and a 1950s Marklin Baggage car, which, IMO, is the car which is looks best next to.
For political reasons Kraus was closed in 1938. Some tools was used by the manufacturer Keim later. The US Zone logo was used after 1945.
Arne
I found this mess on FB marketplace. Car roofs look a bit questionable but overall it is the whole set. It is the American Flyer #322 1939 Large Hudson freight set.
And the Catalog page from 1939. The only bummer is I have to wait till I get back from China later next week to unpack it as it won't arrive till after I depart for the trip
The good bit is I had been trying to run into a good deal on the crane in this set for a while and now I get the whole set for $90 plus shipping
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While at one of the bandit meets at York, I picked up a boxed American Flyer Champion set. The set number is 977 TW, which is a number that I don't have information about.
The set of cars that came with the set are the same cars that are shown with Set 982, which shows a lithographed Hiawatha engine, tender, and 7 freight cars, including: Texaco tank, container car, log car, box car, Pennsylvania hopper, gondola, and caboose. This is the largest (counting number of cars only) set that American Flyer ever sold.
In examining the engine, I noted that it features extra weights, as compared to other similar engines. I then compared it to another set I have with 6 cars, and noted that the engine in that set also featured extra weights, but not as many as the engine in the set I just bought.
So here are some pictures showing the extra weight locations.
First note the screw in the middle of the back panel on the engine on the left. The engine on the right does not even feature the hole for this weight.
Second, note the screw in front of the forward sand dome on the engine at the rear of the photo. This slot is normally for the engine brake on windup versions. This screw holds a second weight in place.
Lastly, the screw in the front of the engine on the left, in the AF lettering. The hole is also present on the other engine, but no weight installed.
These weights combine to add 3 weights to the engine, which also has a weight mounted on the front of the motor itself.
Here is the set (pictured at the front)
Oddly, I noted that the engine in the set at the rear of the photo, also has extra weights. It has a weight riveted to the rear of the engine shell and a weight at the front of the engine shell. However, it did not have the weight at the top of the shell
Both sets run great and will be the layout runner for a while.
NWL