Feedback Requested on O27 4x8

Tray SCARM, it's free and has no limit.

As for the plan, it is interesting, but would limit the length of trains you can run to something like a locomotive and 2 cars. AKA, I don't like the "passing sidings."

I completely agree with Sinclair. I'd learn SCARM even if my layout was less than 50 pieces. I also don't like the inside sidings because they don't offer much beyond an alternate route. IMHO, all they do is waste space and cost extra for no real benefit. Yeah, you could park some cars there, but my guess is you're talking only 4 cars, so is that really worth the cost of 4 switches and 4 curved sections? If it were me and I wanted a little storage space, I'd replace the straight sections coming off the left side of the 90 crossing with switches and run 2 spurs to the left inside the larger loop. I don't have time tonight to enter the design into RR-Track, but it looks like each spur could then hold at least 3 cars and I think it would look much better. Just some thoughts. Good luck.

Hi ams,

Here it is showing climb to 3" at the bridge to have a 3% grade. Eliminated a full straight on the left inner. It didn't fit, so a half is in there now. Eliminated the extra loops inside. perhaps make them reversing loops or a switch and short siding for an accessory. SCARM file attached.

Thank you so much for those insights!  I appreciate how clean and neat AnyRail is, and I've never butted up against the 50-piece limit before--but I can see the advantages of SCARM.  I've just downloaded it and will spend some time with it.  Moonman, your file will certainly make the learning curve a bit easier--thank you.

DoubleDAZ, is this what you're suggesting?  Because I like it as well.  I may play with a reversing loop there as Moonman suggested.  So many options! 

Yes, that is what I was thinking. I think it looks cleaner and with the right landscaping, parking cars there wouldn't look like an after-thought. However, I also like the idea of a reversing loop, but hesitated to suggest it because I always think you need 2 for both directions and it's hard to do on a single level 4x8.

As for SCARM, you'll have a learning curve, but there are tutorials and a manual to answer questions. Once you learn the basics, I think you'll be happy with all the possibilities you can then play with.

ok, I almost have the r-loops fit into your current plan. 4 switches and 1 custom cut piece of track. I just can't figure out where to get the little bit to align it. The 90 crossings have me fixed. See what you think. You'll see the problem area low center.

Daz, can you find the magic spot for a fitter to align it?

Hey ams, don't know if you've ever been on the thortrains.net website, but there's a lot of good info, as well as layout ideas.

I went through the 027 layout pages. Some of them have 3D illustrations to help you visualize a completed layout. There are none of these pages for 4x8 layouts, but there are some for 4x6 layouts. Take a look... you could easily lengthen anyone of these to 8 feet long. But I thought these might inspire your creative process.

I wouldn't worry too much about short sidings. On a smaller layout, those are just a given. But visualizing inadvance what sorts of accessories you'd like to have on your layout will help you determine how much space you need to have around the track sidings.

Hope these give you some more inspiration. And good luck... have some fun!

http://www.thortrains.net/marx/460271.html

http://www.thortrains.net/marx/460272.html

I'm a 027 guy. Some tips I did on my layout. I made extra ties from brown hobby foam like you can get at Hobby Lobby. I cut them myself to the size of the upper part of the tie. When you consider the bend at the bottom of each metal tie, the size becomes bigger. I used an ordinary glue stick to help hold the ties in place. They do a great job in helping to reduce the "rumble" noise of the trains on a board. I also used self-adhesive insulation foam on the bottom of each metal tie of the Lionel 027 track.

I use manual switch tracks because I'm not a big fan of the non-derail feature on 027 tracks that derive there power from the track. I know you can rewire the switches to auxiliary power, but I went with manual switches. For places harder to reach, you can use ordinary nylon fishline to rig up a simple control of the more modern MPC-era design switch tracks.

I have rewired my uncoupling tracks to work, not from track power, but from auxiliary power, which I would recommend doing. That way, your UC action is always the same, regardless of how fast or slow the train is running.

I think it's going to need at least 3 (maybe 4) custom-cut pieces to make things fit. As I see it, you need to move the entire left inside section up and to the left to get the bottom to align up with the switch turnout. In order to do this, I think you need to separate at 3 points (marked in Red); the upper lead of the switch, the center of the right loop and again where you come out of that loop. This will leave the entire left section "float" and the 2 curved sections "float" separately until you line things up and figure out the length of the gaps. I think you can align the bottom with a 10" straight, but I'm not sure and I'm pretty sure the curve and big "X" will need custom-cut pieces. That's a small price to pay though to add 2 reversing loops and a lot more operating fun.

I'm not as proficient in SCARM as you are, but if you'll post your SCARM file, I'll play with it. Or I can take some time to put it in RR-Track and play with it there.

Well, I put it all in RR-Track (photo 1) and the best I can do is 4 custom-cut sections to align things properly, though I don't think one of those off the crossing will be needed because the track might "give" enough.

An alternative to eliminate the 2 in the curve is to trim the crossing (like photo 2) as long as the switch machine clears. I don't like this idea as much because I don't like trimming special tracks. But I don't know how much an O-27 crossing costs, so it might not be a big deal.

I also don't like all the 4.8" straight pieces I had to use, so I'd probably use 35" sections trimmed to fit to reduce the number of joints on the top, bottom and 3 spurs in both examples.

Obviously, the crossing in the middle is the piece that forces these compromises. Given that the plan includes an incline to a bridge along the top (not shown), all the problems could be solved by separating the 2 inner loops and putting one on a 2nd level (photos 3 & 4).

Guys, I was expecting just a few pointers--your insights are VERY appreciated.  Thank you for taking the time, as I feel like I've already dodged a couple of bullets.

Yes!  I'ma huge fan of the site, and have been borrowing some ideas from the O36 Fastrack 4x8's and converting portions to O27 as I play with ideas.  Great stuff!

Your thoughts about power I completely agree with and will be implementing.

Hi ams,

I couldn't leave the change for reversing loops undone. Here it is attached. The fitter pieces are yellow.

Have fun!

Thank you, Moonman--at your convenience, will you post the SCARM file for that?  Looking forward to tinkering with it.

here 'tis... right-click>save target as>

check out the 3D view

Hi folks!  Spent about a month playing around with this design, and put it together on the living room floor last night to test things out.

A few changes... after assembly and running some trains, I opted to eliminate the reversing loop, which in turn allowed me to do away with several of the switches.  While I have no aversion to them myself, I figured there was the potential for frustration for my kids when managing multiple manual switches all the time.  It also made things look a lot cleaner.

Having the two short sidings inside the loop doesn't work--the switch footprint won't allow room for both of them.

Moved the bridge to the left so I could use all the graduated trestle pieces on both sides. 

I've created two sections for a reversing trolley or handcar.  I'll power these and all accessories from a second transformer.

The tiny siding in the center of the layout I may remove.  It's too small to really do anything but hold a car or two at best, but I like the idea of putting a station platform between that and the trolley line.

Going to have to invent some kind of barrier to assist around the curves at the top and bottom.  I have a little KLine switcher I use for testing, and I ran it off the rails a half dozen times while working on things.

Anyway, just wanted to say thanks for all the input.  I like where we've ended up.  Got ties from 3R plastics en route, and permanent installation begins later this month when I can set aside time.

That turned out really nice!

I just assumed with the switches that they would be non-rail, requiring no intervention. Well, you can always add the r-loop back in when they are ready for switching. It wouldn't disturb the layout after setup.

Keep us updated. I am interested in see the finished layout. I am sure it will look great!