As all my PS3 steamers eventually lose control or stop outright via DCS remote, ostensibly due to wireless drawbar pins coming just a tad loose at tender connection, I purchased the cover caps from MTH (part #FB0000028). I've been able to insert them successfully on a couple of steamers - but not on others. Is there a way the caps are supposed to be installed? I noted a white dot on the one end of the cap - I believe it is supposed to face down on the tender side. I am afraid to use too much force on these, or is a lot of force required sometimes? These drawbar pins coming loose at the tender plug is a real PITA IMO.

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Hello Paul.   since you have been waiting two hours, Ill give it a shot.    If you are talking about the square black things with the hole in them that hold the drawbar to the tender pin ?  It will probably go on hard.  I use vinyl tubing for this job and it goes on hard, but also does not come off.

Your title may be a little misleading because there is a thin plastic cap on the drawbar surface, that snaps on.

Thanks, Clem, yes, it is the square shaped cap. I bought 8 of them from MTH and a couple went on with a little force, but now I can't get the others on at all. I guess I need to use more force? Just don't want to break anything. Also, there's a white-dot on them...not sure what that means?

fwiw: I searched this forum and found a lot of threads on folks lambasting the wireless drawbar due to it coming loose, some posts dating back to 2012. Some people are using zip-ties but I couldn't find a post about the black square "plugs" that MTH sells. I would've thought MTH would include this with their steamers by now.

Regarding the black plugs that MTH sells via parts department - ostensibly designed to keep the drawbar pin connected where it inserts into the tender...I had to hammer them on using wood block and small hammer, and before hammering I inserted a thin piece of wood between the top of the steel tender pole and the underside of the tender to provide backing. I think they're on pretty secure now

 

Paul Kallus posted:

Regarding the black plugs that MTH sells via parts department - ostensibly designed to keep the drawbar pin connected where it inserts into the tender...I had to hammer them on using wood block and small hammer, and before hammering I inserted a thin piece of wood between the top of the steel tender pole and the underside of the tender to provide backing. I think they're on pretty secure now

 

Have you tried Super glue ?  JK

I've not had one pull off / down yet, but I don't run them like crazy and for long periods of time.

I recently purchased a new MTH Premier steam engine with PS3. Within the first hour or two of operation, the engine suddenly stopped twice. Gently pushing the tender-end of the drawbar upward immediately got the engine going again. I then read about, and ordered, the retainer piece from MTH but, in the meantime, I bought some clear plastic tubing (5/16" OD - 3/16" ID), cut a piece about 1/2" in length, and placed it onto the tender drawbar post. The fit is quite snug. I've run the engine about four hours since then, and the issue hasn't recurred, so I've been continuing to run with the tubing. If it recurs, I will install the MTH part...

MELGAR

MELGAR posted:

I recently purchased a new MTH Premier steam engine with PS3. Within the first hour or two of operation, the engine suddenly stopped twice. Gently pushing the tender-end of the drawbar upward immediately got the engine going again. I then ordered the retainer piece from MTH but, in the meantime, I bought some clear plastic tubing (5/16" OD - 3/16" ID), cut a piece about 1/2" in length, and placed it onto the tender drawbar post. The fit is quite snug. I've run the engine about four hours since then, and the issue hasn't recurred, so I've been continuing to run with the tubing. If it recurs, I will install the MTH part...

MELGAR

Fantastic idea !

One of the issues with the "wireless" drawbars on MTH equipment is the tender post has too much slop.  When it tilts toward the locomotive under pressure, that tends to work the connector loose.  I took one and added shims to it so that it just has room to swivel, and also canted it slightly to the rear.  It's previous bad habits were all cured without adding anything to hold it on the post.

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