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Hi everybody,

 

So, I've recently purchased some LEDS from Evan Designs for lighting up some of the building kits I am working on. This is my attempt and not only building, but also LEDS. As I work on these buildings before I get to the layout, I am having some trouble with mounting the LEDS and wire management. I am using the 28 gauge Kynar wire to extend the leads. I had purchased some of the holding wax offered, but I feel like it isn't sufficient, and I'm just not getting the best mounting I can. So I ask a few questions to all:

 

What is your preferred method of mounting LEDS in a structure?

 

How do you manage the wire, especially in a building like a station platform?

 

What are you using as a light block for some of the seams when building?

 

Lastly, to a much different topic than above, I am going to be converting my Postwar Locos as I go through and service them. For people who installed LEDs, have you kept the lens and installed the LED, or used fiber optics? Or ditched the lens all together and flush mounted the light?

 

Any help is greatly appreciated!

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 On my diesel shed, I threw some LEDs up in the ceiling without much thought. I used heavy green Christmas light wires with hot melt glue holding it in place. That was a mistake as when someone bends to look inside the building, they see those heavy green wires sloppily thrown up there.

 I marvel when I see modelers use tubing to run the wires to look just like the real thing. So take your time and conceal the wire inside mini conduit. Look at the real thing and capture the look of that era. Even with modern LEDs, it's still possible. Don't throw them up there thinking no one will see it! When you take a picture, everyone will see it!

Just an FYI always think outside the box on projects... For conduit, If you happen to be at a Ruby Tuesdays take notice of the drink stirrers small black thin plastic tubes. Great for hiding wires. The straws are larger black plastic tubes. Talk to your server and you will have years of tubing for your projects.

Also many don't know that Low temp Hot Glue comes in colors. For attaching these tubes I use Black Hot Glue I also use this to block light ie: corners of buildings led's installed in vehicles.

Hot Glue guns are not all the same they make them with extended longer tips for hard to reach places,

Google will find this for you.

 

Last edited by NelsonW
NelsonW posted:

Just an FYI always think outside the box on projects... For conduit, If you happen to be at a Ruby Tuesdays take notice of the drink stirrers small black thin plastic tubes. Great for hiding wires. The straws are larger black plastic tubes. Talk to your server and you will have years of tubing for your projects. 

Get them while you can, days of plastic straws may be numbered.

I use magnet wire/enamel wire, like from a field coil or armature.  Comes in many colors and gauges. You can run it (even side by side) in tubes easy too, no rubbery insulation to drag during a push or pull. Thin, strong,hides well. Use a,flame to heat the ends. It burns off the coating and allows you to then solder to it. Paint with acrylic if needed.

Hot glue isn't all the same either, soft, hard, craft, wood, high heat, chemical tolerance, etc. etc.   I use hot glue on led/wire very often.

    I miss paper straws and actually preferred them for soda pop (younger folk: learn to ask for an extra or two if you don't drink fast),,A fat plastic straw in a extra thick milkshake is hard to beat though... I'll miss that.

To bend plastic straws with heat, so they dont collapse, run a piece of soft solder inside, maybe greased, and lightly heat the plastic. (Boiling water, fast flame, etc.) Then pull the solder. There is a learning curve.  Notching the inside or outside edge of the bend can leave the exposed side looking better and allow an easier bend.

I can get a tight bend on plastic, not on brass. I only do straights with metal tube, leaving corners open, which is prototypical in some old, or industrial, or control/communications applications as well.

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