John, I have plenty of wire. I’m going to take your advice. I’ll have a lot left over that I can donate to the Hadley Railroad. 👍🏻
Dave, I used an in-line fuse Then a breaker on my ZW. Once I started using the Z4000 I just relied on the TIU’s fuses and the Z4000 overload. You proved that a TIU needs more protection than that. Thank you.
Looks great, Mark--nice job!
Just curious.....how is the operation of the DCS with the TIU where you have it? I remember Marty Fitzhenry telling me that the TIU needs to be at track level for everything to work properly.
John
Mark and John, the bridge lift is easy to build once you get going!
@BlueComet400 posted:Looks great, Mark--nice job!
Just curious.....how is the operation of the DCS with the TIU where you have it? I remember Marty Fitzhenry telling me that the TIU needs to be at track level for everything to work properly.
John
John, Thank you very much! The TIU mounted under the layout works great in an 11x11 room. 
I'm sure Marty was right if you were trying to cover a basement sized layout like his. Also, if the signal has to go around corners, it could be problematic. I recall trying to operate in the family room (that was to be Plan C) with the TIU near where I have it now. Since the 11x11 room is an addition, the signal wouldn't make it through a concrete block and brick wall. If I held the remote out at arms length to be a more direct line of sight through the door, then it was fine.
@mike g. posted:Mark and John, the bridge lift is easy to build once you get going!
That sounds great Mike!!!!
@Mark Boyce posted:That sounds great Mike!!!!
Mark, I built 2 others also. One for Brian Silver Mustang and one for Pine Creek Dave. I dont know if either have installed them, but I am open to that idea also.
@mike g. posted:Mark, I built 2 others also. One for Brian Silver Mustang and one for Pine Creek Dave. I don't know if either have installed them, but I am open to that idea also.
Mike, That is very generous offer. I'm up for looking at the plans and seeing if I can do it myself.
@BlueComet400 posted:Looks great, Mark--nice job!
Just curious.....how is the operation of the DCS with the TIU where you have it? I remember Marty Fitzhenry telling me that the TIU needs to be at track level for everything to work properly.
John
I believe this could be more of an issue if you are using the remote instead of the WIU and app because the antenna for the remote is mounted in the top of the TIU. That is also why they say to mount it vertically and not horizontally. If you are using the WIU and app, I believe you can get a longer usb cable and place the WIU in another location as long as there is a line of sight between the WIU and your smart device. My TIU is mounted under my layout but I was going to put my WIU on my control panel table next to the transformers so the WIU antenna is around lower level layout height. Please correct me if this is not accurate, but this is my understanding.
Mark and others, thanks to the PSX-AC discussion I just purchased 4 for each of my TIU channels. I would rather be extra safe than sorry. Looking forward to installing them. Thanks again for all the great info!
Michael
Michael, I’m glad the discussion was helpful. I was impressed with how fast they respond.
As to your comments about the WIU, that makes sense.
Nice progress Mark, looking good. I like the shelving you installed.
Andy
Thank you, Andy!
Funny, I just purchased a longer cable in order to move my WIU above my layout. It is currently below/under the layout and I sometimes have issues with engines near the roundhouse, which is approx. 30'+ away from the unit. Based on my understanding that the signal drops I am hoping that by installing the WIU above the layout it will give the unit more coverage, and possible reduce any restrictions/interference by eliminating the signal from having to travel through the layout.
I'll see how it works and let you know.
Darren
Darren, When we first installed what the manufacturer called wireless access bridges at work (1999-2000) the manufacturers recommended mounting them near the ceiling, but not inside the drop ceiling. I took signal readings all over the buildings with a program on a heavy. bulky laptop at the time. A lot has advanced since then, but having a Wifi unit installed higher in a room hasn't changed. I would think it should help with the longer cable.
@Mark Boyce posted:I did get both PSX-1ACs moved to between the Z4000 and the TIU Fixed inputs. I also pulled back the two pairs of wires that feed my Ceiling Central Railroad in the next room to where I can splice in longer wires. I might as well connect them to the second output that I am going to put in switches to turn them off except when running trains on the Ceiling Central RR. Maybe I should just pull new wire that will reach the whole distance and eliminate a splice under the layout. That is probably a better way to go.
Mark based on what I am understanding is the PSX-1AC's should be located between the Z4000 and the TIU? If that is the case what do you have between the TIU and the track for protection? Also are you using any kind of Fast Blow Fuse or TVS Diodes?
Rick, Yes the PSX-1ACs are between the Z4000 and TIU. I have both TVS diodes and fast blow fuses that I have used before, but haven't installed either here yet. I think I would go with the TVS diodes between the TIU and track. I got stalled on the project the last couple days.
Enjoying your progress, Mark. The TIU already has a TVS on each channel, so the next place should be close to the track. I had an 18" drop on every track feed to a two position terminal strip, so I put them there. I would think that the PSX-1AC would be plenty of protection. I run each channel with a 5 amp thermal and a 10 amp Airpax magnetic breaker, The Airpax breakers will trip instantly using a 28 awg wire as a direct short, where the thermal just burns the wire up because it can't carry enough amps to trip it. The thermal does trip if, say, an MU deadends on a siding. That's why I like them both. You can have it both ways because you can set the trip amps.
If you use the PSX-AC between the transformer and the TIU, is it best practice to put a tvs at every track feed? I have read some people put them other places as well such as across the main track terminal blocks. Is there any danger of using too many tvs's? Do people use them before accessories as well? I have read some people change them out periodically. Is this commom practice?
Mark, hope you don't mind us diverging a little into these electronics discussions on your thread. There has been a lot of good info and I have learned a great deal in the past several days. Your setup and background in electronics as well as everybody's input has helped me think through and improve my own electronics setup!
Keep up the great progress!
Michael
John, I do recall now that you mention it that the TIU has TVS. How quickly I forget. What you did makes sense to me, now that I think this all through. That dovetails into my response to Michael.
Michael, I am happy we can have this discussion here. I really do not know about whether you can have too many TVS's or put protective devices in too many places. My background in electronics is mostly with technologies that are buried in landfills or have been melted down for other uses. 
Most recently (the last 20 years) in telecommunications we had fuses for the power feeding the main office equipment, surge protectors on the cable going out to the next location, protectors on the opposite end of the cable, and fuses in the remote end itself. Translate that to our layout, you have a breaker on the AC circuit feeding the Z4000, an overload in the Z4000, the faster responding PSX between the Z4000 and the TIU to stop power to the TIU, a TVS on each channel in the TIU, so it would seem a TVS at the track end of the wiring of each feed would make sense to me. What would re recommended by those in the O gauge train industry probably varies as opinions varied in telecom and the electric power industry.
There is probably something on this Forum that discusses these questions further. I would just need to do some searching.
Thank you again everyone who has contributed with questions, information, or just browsed and didn't leave comment. I'm sure it got many in the later category thinking as many topics here get me thinking. Smell the smoke?? 
Thank you Mark! I ordered some tvs's from digikey today. I need to stop reading this forum and now find time to install all of this stuff and work on the layout, haha 😁. Seriously it has all been very helpful. Glad I'm reading it now before I have everything wired up.
There are about 5 or 6 threads on here about the tvs that I found. I can copy the links if anyone is interested or you could probably just do a search.
Michael
Michael, that’s great!! I didn’t get a chance to look for information or to see how many more TVS I have. I know I need to have some more. I’ll take a look for topics covering TVS and let you know if I have trouble finding anything.
Update on the wiring. I found my TVS diodes. I have 8 left out of 10 I purchased when I put 2 on the outputs of my ZW. I'll have to order more. I received 2 packages of 10 each of the long handled switches Bob suggested. That will be more than I need for this, and I can use them on.
Mike sent me all the scoop on his lift up bridges. One of Mike's installations is just like mine with one bridge at a higher level than the other. He showed me how to work them with one actuator. I have the actuator in my cart ready to order. I can use a switch, maybe one on each side, I just received to operate it. I need to get some good plywood to make the supports. Believe it or not, out of my stockpile I have a few little scraps of wood, not enough to do anything much. I have hardware for it, except I need to get some limit switches to kill the power when the bridges are up.
Thank you everyone for all the great ideas!!!!
Mark, glad you found your TVS Diodes. You will have to tell me how they work and how to wire them. Maybe it would have saved my engine. I hate to think what it will cost me to get it repaired! 
As for the life bridge, make sure you get 2 limit kill switches one for all the way up and one for when down. The one for the down makes it easier to fine tune the track aliment. That way the Actuator doesnt try to keep running till it hits it's own internal kill switch.
Thank you, Mike. Yes one could have saved the engine, of course a wire could have come loose too.
You just put the TVS diode across the two wires to the rails under the layout at each power feed. I have never known if it helped or not, since nothing ever cooked.
Good Point about the limit switch for the bridge going in each direction. Thank you!
Mark,
It amazes me that the tvs diode connects to the hot and ground and dosen't create a short. Seems counterintuitive, but it works!
What is your preferred method of connecting wires. Do you go all the way from the terminal blocks or transformers (for accessories) to the track or do you drop down short leads from the track and accessories under the table and connect via terminal blocks, solder or mechanical connectors? I will use star wiring for my tracks, but wondering what is best for accessories (star, bus or some other method).
Glad you're making progress at finding all the parts you need. I acquired some electrical components (terminal blocks, toggle switches, push button switches) from my dad today. Apparently they were spares for my grandfathers boat years ago.
Michael
Michael, Yes I was not familiar with TVS diodes until I saw they were recommended as protection for engines with modern electronics. That was only about 5 years ago. I am curious, but have never taken the time to look up their electrical properties, but this discussion has reinforced my need to look that up. Maybe after Christmas I'll get to that.
For this layout, I used the GarGraves rail pins with feeder wires already soldered on. Maybe the easy way out, but things are getting harder for me to do, and soldering is one of them. I forget, they may be #18 wire. I went with the Wago lever connectors (the ones that handle 3 wires) that many Forum member recommended. I like them. They are a bit stiff to lift the lever the first time, but they really grip almost any size wire we would use on the layout. I have #12 wire feeding from the MTH terminals at the panel to the Wago in the star configuration. Funny, at the telephone company, we called it star configuration for Ethernet, but home run for telephone. I am going to try to add the TVS to the Wago connectors. There is a empty hole in all the hot feeds, but I put in a drop for both outer rails, using up the three holes. I will try adding that end of the TVS as a second 'wire' in one of the holes on the Wago, and really tug hard to make sure the connection is good. I may have to buy the 5 hole Wagos and refit the outer rail connectors. It isn't a problem. They are really easy to open and switch out. I like them so much better than terminal blocks and fooling with tightening them down under the layout, although I can reach many of them from the top. I hope this works.
If not, I intend to buy more Wagos for my DZ1000 switch machines since they have feeder wires on them. I don't see a need for TVS there. I never heard of anyone doing that. I think accessories and lighting can be done in a bus fashion. We aren't worried about signal strength and all those issues with DCS.
I acquired things from my dad too. I got a lot of lumber from my dad's shop when we cleaned everything out last year before selling. Mum and Dad (both 90) have been living in a personal care home for 3 years. It just took us a couple years to figure out no family member was in the position to take the old 1888 homestead on. I'm using some of my dad's tools also. When he bought a new tool, he told me I could borrow it any time, and they would be mine when he didn't need them any more. My brother is a renter and not handy with tools. Dad had a lot of Grandpa's tools, but they are cumbersome and I let them go with the house. Grandpa passed on in 1956, the year I was born.
Mark, you get a chance can you take a photo of the TVS Diodes and the connectors your talking about?
Mark, thanks for all the great info! I second Mike's request. Maybe a picture of the wago connected to a track feed somewhere on your layout. Also can you post a link of where you get them and what you order? I see a bunch on Amazon.
Here is a post with part numbers for commonly used tvs's and other components.
https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...zes-and-part-numbers
I was planning on using #14 wire for track power because I have a ton of it but don't have any #12. Do you think that will be sufficient for my 13 x 16 layout. Terminal blocks are mounted in the middle so no run should be over about 6 to 8 feet, probably less.
Michael
Mike and Michael, Here is a photograph of the ones I bought from Mouser. They look like big diodes.
TVS stands for transient voltage suppression diodes. They look like an open circuit to your normal voltage. The look like a short circuit to transients, protecting your circuit and they do not break down so they can take multiple transients. There are bidirectional and unidirectional ones.
Here is a photograph of the Wago connectors I bought.
Since I bought mine, someone on the Forum pointed out they have clear ones that you can see the connection and the levers aren't quite as stiff. I haven't tried those yet. I bought mine on Amazon Prime, listed as Wago lever nuts. I'm thinking of ordering a box of the 5 conductor ones for my TVS connections to the two outside rails and reusing the 3 conductor ones on the switch machines. The number system is as follows: 222 stands for the gray ones, 221 stands for the clear ones, 412 stands for the 2 conductor ones, 413 for 3 conductors, 415 for 5 conductors. As in the photograph 222-413 is for the gray 3 conductor ones.
Here is a YouTube video that shows their system complete with their junction box. This fellow is using them for house wiring, which I do not know if they are up to code anywhere here in America. So far, I have just left mine hanging under the layout with the #12 feed wire pulled fairly taunt and than use nylon cable clamps attached to the underside to feed the wires through.
Your #14 wire should be sufficient for your short runs. Thank you very much for the link to RTR's post on the TVS and PTC part numbers. I'll use that for more TVS's since I have been buying from DigiKey lately. That is the place GunrunnerJohn uses and gives their part numbers.
BTW Mike, I ordered the Linear Actuator for the bridges last evening. I'll order the stuff I mentioned above today...I hope. 
It will be interesting to see how you integrate the TVS suppressors into the Wago connectors.
I used two gang terminal blocks for each power drop and soldered a TVS Suppressor to each one. I then mounted the block to the underside of the layout with screws directly below the feeder wires from the track and then connected them to the block on one side and the power wires (not shown) to the other side.
I suspect you'll be able to fit the legs of the TVS suppressors into the Wago connector, but I think it will hang loose, so you'll then have to use some wire or cable clips to mount it securely to the underside of the layout ?
That's a nice installation, Richie!!
I just ordered a bunch of stuff mentioned above including some cable clips to hold the TVS and WAGO installations.
Mark I found these at a big box store. When I installed all the flush mount 6 inch LED lights the all had this connecter in the box.
Rick, Thank you! I took a look at a video on Home Depot and they look very nice. No lever, just push the wires in. They were using them instead of wire nuts for house wiring. I hate wire nuts. I already ordered some more lever ones, but I'm going to get some of these and throw all my spare wire nuts away. 
Hey Mark, when you get some time and find yourself under the layout, can you take some photos of how you have your feeders hooked up?
Mike, I will do it when I switch out the 5 pin connectors for the 3 pin connectors and add the TVSs. They are all on order.
Sounds great Mark, then I can fallow your lead and redo mine!
Train derailment here do to to much rain!
@Mark Boyce posted:Mike, I will do it when I switch out the 5 pin connectors for the 3 pin connectors and add the TVSs. They are all on order.
Mark glad you got something out the post. After reading yours about the Wago connectors I searched and found those. I have used them before every light in my basement/mancave/TRAINROOM came with those connectors in the light. My question would be how to secure them to the under side of the layout. My layout is U shaped and the control center is at the top of one side of the U. So to get to the other topside of the U would be about 90 ft so still not sure how to wire it up. A star configuration may not be practical, so thinking a #10 buss wire for both power and ground around the entire perimeter using Wago type connectors at each drop may be the answer. The longer I wait the more answers to my questions are provided by you. THANKS A MILLION!
Mark,
I did this layout sketch of the way I think you are doing your track wiring. Is this correct?
I will probably follow your lead and do the same method. Those wago connectors are pretty sweet. What cable clips did you order to secure your installation? I would want everything secure and not hanging loose. Was wondering if you could use double stick pressure tape to secure the wago connectors to the under side of the table?
In addition to the wago connectors do you have a "t" type or suitcase connector you like for bus type wiring?
Thanks for letting us all piggyback off of your methods 😁!
Michael
Rick, Yes 90 feet is a long way. I’ve read some people have used bus wiring with DCS and get away with it. I don’t know.
Michael, yes your drawing is exactly what I mean. I think some double sided tape hold seemingly forever and some doesn’t. Some of the nylon cable clamps I looked at came with sticky back. What was out there years ago wasn’t very good. I ordered some of them thinking these may be better and some with a hole for a screw.
Here is a good thread on different styles of Wago and Wago-like connectors that have tabs for screw mounting. There are also ones with A and B inputs. I just got some of those, very useful. I wish I had them from the getgo.
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